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engine swap ?'s Continued

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Psquare75 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: engine swap ?'s Continued
    Posted: 21-July-2006 at 4:24PM
1. Can a 460/c6 with hooker headers be R&Rd from a car (76 Elite in this case) with only front suspension attached? I'm hoping to not have to pull the headers separate.
 
2. Is there any reason I can't use the OEM throttle cable and 1 additional spring on a separate bracket on the manifold? or should I just remove the spring from the OEM cable, and use two separate springs?
 
 
 
 
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-July-2006 at 6:24AM
I'd unbolt the headers, especially if you plan to use them again. Keep the factory throttle spring cable and make a new manifold bracket if necessary. Use an additional spring for extra throttle return insurance.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2006 at 3:43PM
Ok, even more questions.
1. The headers seem fairly close to the steering box and the power steering lines.. In my Elite, I used to run a standard sized generic transmission cooler, for the PS system.. Is this really necessary? Right now, it has no cooler at all. Debating if I need it.
2. For the heater hose setup with the non A/C.. should I just run long hoses from the heater core to the engine, or should I try to make as much of it as possible a hard line, and have a hose on either end?
3. Another electrical question.. I pulled my Duraspark setup, and I'm going with a DUI (GM HEI on a Ford distributor). It pulls at most, 5 amps (so they say). Is there any 12V with start/run wires that I could use that would fit the bill? Any of the Duraspark wires?
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PatsPOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2006 at 5:32PM

1. I've wondered about the necessity of a PS cooler for some time myself.  But now that you mention it, headers might make the PS a little unhappy, so the cooler might be a keen idea.  If you don't wanna bother with the bigger tranny cooler, you might be able to find a factory PS cooler (just one "loop") to throw in there. One of those should work pretty well, considering there really isn't a huge volume of fluid that needs to be cooled.  If you've never seen one before, lemme know and I'll take a pic of the one in the Torino.  Might even have one knocking around in one of my parts cars that you could have for the price of shipping, but I make no guarantees as to whether I actually have one or not until I LOOK!  Geek

2. I don't really think it matters whether you put hard line in or not.  I've seen some 400 CID and up with the factory hard line over the engine, but most I've seen had plain ol' hose all the way.  It'd be a pretty nice way to dress it up a little bit (very little), IMO.
 
3. I can't say enough good things about the Duraspark setup...I've known guys running semi-late dirt-track cars that have used 'em.  Having said that, the factory wires would be a good source for 12 volts.  The red/lt. green wire should be hot in "run", and the red/lt. blue wire should be hot in "start".
 
Pat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2006 at 5:57PM
I know of what loop you speak, my Elite used to have one originally. I probably will put the cooler back as the lines look very close to the header pipes.
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2006 at 6:25PM
I use a little ceramic header wrap around the primary pipe closest to the steering box. I've never used a PS cooler, however if your PS lines, pump and box are real close to the headers it probably wouldn't hurt. Engine bay wiring can be brittle and corroded after 20+ years, I use the factory wire as a 12V trigger for a Relay that's wired with 10 AWG directly from the battery through a 20A fuse. That way your HEI gets all the juice it needs. Neg (-) ground wires are very important and the wire should be as heavy as 4 AWG size minimum in my opinion.
Best place for grounds are:
1/ (-) Battery Post to Firewall
2/ (-) Battery Post to Engine Block
3/ (-) Battery Post to Frame
4/ (-) Battery Post to Front Clip
5/ (-) Starter Mounting Bolt to Frame
Please Note:  No (-) Negative wires from any car electronics should be hooked directly to (-) Battery Post, this will prevent damage or fire.
       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2006 at 1:39AM
Originally posted by GranTorinoMan GranTorinoMan wrote:

I use a little ceramic header wrap around the primary pipe closest to the steering box. I've never used a PS cooler, however if your PS lines, pump and box are real close to the headers it probably wouldn't hurt. Engine bay wiring can be brittle and corroded after 20+ years, I use the factory wire as a 12V trigger for a Relay that's wired with 10 AWG directly from the battery through a 20A fuse. That way your HEI gets all the juice it needs. Neg (-) ground wires are very important and the wire should be as heavy as 4 AWG size minimum in my opinion.
Best place for grounds are:
1/ (-) Battery Post to Firewall
2/ (-) Battery Post to Engine Block
3/ (-) Battery Post to Frame
4/ (-) Battery Post to Front Clip
5/ (-) Starter Mounting Bolt to Frame
Please Note:  No (-) Negative wires from any car electronics should be hooked directly to (-) Battery Post, this will prevent damage or fire.
       
 
I was thinking a relay.. would you believe my main reason against them is... Where to mount it/them (I need a few others). I'd like a hidden spot if I could. I have a small stand alone fusebox, that I plan to mount near the solenoid on the inner fender. I was going to I guess mount a bunch of relays on the radiator support, between the support and the battery (where the regulator goes on the 72-76 cars). The only issue with *that* is I'd have wires going back AND forth..
 
In my Elite, I had my solenoid/fuse box on the firewall (no A/C = tons of room), and I had the relays on the drivers side fender near the washer box, hidden. Yes, I know. the wire double-backed itself there quite a bit as well.

What to do?
 
Idk, I'm at a loss Confused
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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