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wideone
Senior Member Joined: 05-August-2011 Location: Bristol,TN Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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Posted: 08-April-2012 at 1:06PM |
I am getting ready to paint for the first time. In base coat/clear coat how do you handle the jams, bottom of hood and truck lid? Do you buff these also, or is there a different clear for these areas? I'm thinking that axrylic enamel may be the best choice for first time. I will have to do son BC/CC on my pick up roof (hail damaged) and replacement tailgate. Help. Thanks Randy |
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actually I would stay with BC/CC urethane system cause the base dries pretty fast and not as easy to get runs in.if you get some sags in the clear coat they can be blocked out and buffed later.
I usually do the jambs first and i will pull the doors,hood and trunk off the car and spray the jamb on the car and the back side of the doors,hood and trunk lid.Use the same paint you use on the exterior. after the parts and jambs are cured, bolt them back on the car then sand and prep the exterior surface.then you mask off the back of the panels you panted and the door jambs so you don't get any dry overspray blow through the openings of the jambs and mess up your shiney paint you just did.
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wideone
Senior Member Joined: 05-August-2011 Location: Bristol,TN Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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Thanks Jeff. Do you clear the jams and under sides of the hood and truck? Randy |
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Psquare75
Admin Group Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4591 |
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Not jeff, but yes. As for buffing, I've never bothered with the underside/jambs. You'll never notice it.
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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yah spray the base wait the appropriate flash time according to the paint and then clearcoat it all then let dry.
I mask and cover the outside of the car with drop cloth plastic but keep the tape away from the edge about a 1/4 inch and the paint over spray that is on the outside can be sanded back easily as you will only have a slight amount and this prevents a hard edge at the very edge of the jamb. then when I mask the jamb I back mask the tape at the edge of the quarters and the rocker edge as well as the trunk jamb edge at the quarter. Back masking is when you take wider tape and let some hang past the edge then roll it back to the edge and stick it to itself.this gives a softer edge when the paint blows in the gap of the doors and trunk but then you cover the rest of the jamb with making paper to keep over spray off it. I can take some photo's of how to do it and post them in the paint thread if you need to see to know what I mean
Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 09-April-2012 at 6:42AM |
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Psquare75
Admin Group Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4591 |
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Or, just do it all at once.
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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it's fine with a daily driver but if you want show quality I paint them separate
also if you choose a metallic color it is better to do the jambs first as it will be cleaner and dirt in metallic tends to get noticed more as it will turn a different color and look like a dark spot plus you don't have to worry about getting finger print marks from trying to open and close the doors and trunk as you paint I don't recommend it for a beginner and besides painting the jambs and back sides of the hood and trunk will give you some experience with painting and if you get a minor flaw it won't matter as much as it will on the exterior and you will get the feel of how the paint sprays. As last thing you want is a redo on exterior as paint is not cheap these days
Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 09-April-2012 at 7:30AM |
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wideone
Senior Member Joined: 05-August-2011 Location: Bristol,TN Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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Well, I painted the top and the edges of the bed last night with the base coat. I have two problems. First, I had to take the top down to bare metal due to rust pits through the factory primer. I sprayed expoxy primer over the bare metal after etching it with some dupont metal prep. It looked pretty god after two coats and wet sanding with sand-able primer. After the base coat I now see sanding scratches that I would have sworn weren't there. They "bpther " me some. Can this be wetsanded and reshot or do I need to re prime and start over? Secondly, I do have some sharp edges where I tried to blend the new with the old. What is the best way to fix this? I'm already the worst welder, I'm not shooting to be the worst painter too. Thanks Randy |
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wideone
Senior Member Joined: 05-August-2011 Location: Bristol,TN Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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A little patience with some more sanding of the clear and more buffing, and it looks pretty good for a first time. B/C it is for my Torino. Thanks |
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antlerfiend
Senior Member Joined: 14-June-2010 Location: Louisville,KY Status: Offline Points: 3023 |
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Couldn't be any worse than the paint job on my GTS. I have an Alabama mosquito embedded in my hood. Looking forward to seeing your car and hanging out with you at the end of the month.
Edited by antlerfiend - 03-June-2012 at 3:33PM |
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Alex
72 GTS (Morgan's Baby) 68 CJ Drag Car Clone 65 Mustang (first car) 77 LTD II (Drag Car) 78 Mustang II V6 4 speed |
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unlovedford
Senior Member Joined: 17-December-2010 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 10142 |
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Paul, DUDE! I have sprayed ONE TIME like that where I could hardly see anything (in fact, it was a WHITE Ford Econoline). How long did you cough and blow white paint? That crap got everywhere on me and I finally gave up and shaved my arms, goatee and cut my hair with a "2" clipper attachment to get it off me. Horrible, horrible experience. Especially spraying the entire inside of that empty friggin van. Felt like I was not going to make it...
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Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
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mule323
Senior Member Joined: 12-September-2005 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 602 |
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I HIGHLY recomend a good organic vapor cartridge respirator (supplied air is better but pricey). Those isocyanates in paints now days have a tendency to kill you. Or at least make you twitchy for a loong time.
Alex...I think you should leave the mosquito. He's been riding with you this long, kind of a shame to ditch him now!
Edited by mule323 - 04-June-2012 at 2:03PM |
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(Steve)
73 G.T.S. Fastback, 351C, C6 |
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mule323
Senior Member Joined: 12-September-2005 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 602 |
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Randy, the good thing about clear coat is as long as you put a good coating, at least 3 coats, you can cut and buff out alot of imperfections. I've seen some pretty rough paint jobs turn out pretty nice after a good buffing. Fills minor sanding scratches pretty well. Of course it's always better to prep correctly to begin with but it's nice to be able to help level out the finish with some sandpaper and a buffer.
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(Steve)
73 G.T.S. Fastback, 351C, C6 |
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wideone
Senior Member Joined: 05-August-2011 Location: Bristol,TN Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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I feel a little more confident now, but I still have about three weeks to get this thing painted and back together. I have recruited a friend of mine to help block sand when I shoot the primer this weekend. Still have a little filler work to do, and the interior, and all the trim. As far as the respirator, I am looking to upgrade from my Lowe's 3m job. Thanks Randy |
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