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INFO: 72 - 79 Gauge Clusters and Wiring

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Ranchero Fan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranchero Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-January-2012 at 10:44AM
Oh, I forgot, Welcome to the site
Brian   1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zebra 3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-March-2012 at 7:21AM

I am going to start my project here in a few days...I am going to begin with gauge clusters and wiring first along with the fuel level sending unit.   I have a few questions before I begin.  I am replacing the original ,crumbling, standard cluster in my '76 with a '74-'76  gauge cluster  

Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Part 5:
Wiring:
For those that are retrofitting a gauge cluster into a standard dash car you need to change the oil pressure switch with an oil pressure sending unit and then install the tachometer and ammeter wiring above. The final item required is to tap off of your cigar lighter power feed (light blue / white stripe) for clock power.

I understand that it is not as simple as a "plug and play"...so lets make sure that All I will have to do, sans any unforeseen incidents is:

1) Change the oil pressure switch to an oil pressure sending unit.

2) Re-wire the tachometer and ammeter as per the illustrated text

3) Tap off of the lighter power feed for the clock.

Am I correct so far or did I leave something out?
  The fuel sending unit is in unknown condition...I know that the wires in the trunk area are damaged/cut.  My first goal is to get the cluster working properly before moving on the fuel sending unit.

  ANY input and/or help is ALWAYS appreciated and welcomed...and THANKS!!!    

"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-March-2012 at 9:26AM
That's pretty much it. The ammeter harness is the hard part, IMO. 

If it were me, starting from scratch (I did), I'd have the ammeter converted to a voltmeter and bypass all that ammeter nonsense.

Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-March-2012 at 9:53AM
I love that wood burl look-I sold one to someone on here-now I wish I had kept it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zebra 3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-March-2012 at 10:48AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

That's pretty much it. The ammeter harness is the hard part, IMO. 

If it were me, starting from scratch (I did), I'd have the ammeter converted to a voltmeter and bypass all that ammeter nonsense.

Thats makes a lot of sense to me as well....is there a voltmeter that could be used as a direct replacement of the ammeter that is readily available?


Edited by Zebra 3 - 04-March-2012 at 10:54AM
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-March-2012 at 10:54AM
Rocket Man can do it


He does the conversion, I think it was $40


Edited by Psquare75 - 04-March-2012 at 10:55AM
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zebra 3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-March-2012 at 1:28PM
THANK YOU Psquare75!!! Big smile  That is exactly what I will do.   Is there any suggested positive wire that I should tap into or just find one that is ignition switch controlled on/off to advoid draining the battery.  
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-March-2012 at 9:37PM
When I got the gauge from him, he did send a sheet with a small wiring diagram.. but I think I just did as you said, found a wire that was 12v with key on and accessory.. Not the gauge cluster power wire, however. I can't recall what I used, maybe the wiper power wire. Been awhile.

I have had two gauges completed by RCC. I don't know if he offers a face for the 72-76 gauge, (He focuses on Cougars and 73-79 F100) but to be honest, his gauge conversion puts 12 volts at "0" on the ammeter. The face isn't that important, but a nice touch. I'd contact him. He does very good work. He takes a small voltmeter and adapts the OEM face and needle to it.
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-March-2012 at 1:54AM
Great info. I, too, am converting from standard gauges to the Sport gauges and will need this!

I have another question: I bought a complete set of Sport gauges without the white cluster holder - pod? - (for lack of a better term) or in other words, each gauge is individual and sitting in a box. They were pulled out of a lady's car years ago by her son when it was smashed by a tree in a storm (33K miles). The guy is now older and could not remember the year of the car. Being that these are individual gauges, will it make any difference what year pod I install them in? Mint condition and it would be a shame to waste them.
Joe
1972 GTSquire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino       
1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-March-2012 at 10:52AM
Not sure. I'd match it up to what tach you have.
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zebra 3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2012 at 12:56PM
I got around to replacing the stock dash cluster (the white plastic part was so brittle it was breaking from it's own weight) with the appropriate sport cluster...I have one question....should I also replace the temp. switch with a temp. sending unit since I am changing over from warning lights to gauges?  I noticed that the temp. gauge was all the way over to the "H" even though the engine is cool. 
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2012 at 1:26PM
If memory serves, doesn't the base model non sport cluster have a gauge for temp?
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote occupant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2012 at 2:30PM
Yes, fuel-speed-temp, odometer, turn signal indicators, and some idiot lights, that's all you get with the 3-hole base cluster. Clock was optional in the extra hole on the right but it doesn't affect the rest of the cluster.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranchero Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2012 at 2:40PM
Originally posted by Zebra 3 Zebra 3 wrote:

I got around to replacing the stock dash cluster (the white plastic part was so brittle it was breaking from it's own weight) with the appropriate sport cluster...I have one question....should I also replace the temp. switch with a temp. sending unit since I am changing over from warning lights to gauges?  I noticed that the temp. gauge was all the way over to the "H" even though the engine is cool. 
The only sending unit that has to be changed when you convert to the optional gauge cluster, is the oil pressure sender. Did the temp gauge work with the standard cluster? If it did, then you may have an open wire, bad gauge, or the sender coincidently went bad. Try the simple things first. Sorry that's all I have.
Brian   1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zebra 3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2012 at 4:27AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

If memory serves, doesn't the base model non sport cluster have a gauge for temp?
  YES it doesEmbarrassed ...my bad... I should have paid closer attention to detail. 
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zebra 3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-June-2012 at 4:34PM
Originally posted by neejah neejah wrote:

For posterity (fitting a '74/'76 cluster into a '72) -

Pin PCB Connections ('74-'76) Car ('72)
Purple/White (Brake) Purple/White
2 Red/White (Eng Temp) Red/White
3 Blue/Red (Illumination) Blue/Red
4 Black (-ve supply)
5 White/Blue (Right Turn Ind) White/Blue
6 Green/White (Left Turn Ind) Green/White
7 Green/Black (High Beam Ind) Green/Black
8 Black - Don't Splice (+12v) Black - Don't Splice (+12v)
9 Yellow/White (Oil Pressure) White/Red
10 White/Red (Fuel) Yellow/White
11 Green/Red (No connection on PCB) Green/Red
12 Yellow/White (Top RH Warning Lamp)
13 Green (Btm RH Warning Lamp)
14 Red/Yellow Dash (-ve) Red/Yellow Dash (under hood conn.)

Notes: Pin 14 & Pin 4 I routed to a new ground - the harness for pin 14 terminated in an underhood connection which didn't go anywhere.
Pins 12 & 13 I haven't connected at the minute - I might use them for a shift light at some point in the future.......didn't really care about the fasten seat belt warning!

Hopefully it might help someone in future.........

Neil
    Yes, this has been a huge help for me!Big smile......but I have a couple of corrections for the printed circuit board (D4GF 10C956 BA) 1974,1975, some 1976.....

I am doing a retrofit of the instrument panel circuitry on my '76 (born on date 4-9-76)

#9 Pin circuitry goes to the - (ground) side of the fuel gauge

#10 Pin circuitry goes to the -(ground) side of the oil pressure gauge

#12 Pin circuitry    there is an aprox. 1/4 break in the circuit on the PCB next to the plug in terminal block...I checked 2ea. D4GF 10C956 BA PCB's and the break is the same and in the same spot. The #12 circuit is the + (positive) for the Parking Brake light bulb...located in the top Right hand location of the instrument cluster.

This one has me baffled...there is no other power source for the light bulb ( looking at the PCB) yet this light and the one below it (seat belts) share the same common ground circuit.

#14 Pin circuitry goes to the - (ground) side of the brake warning light (pressure),parking break light and seat belt light

"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-June-2012 at 2:45AM
I can't speak for the early cars, but the 77+ cars, the top right light is "Door Ajar" and it's a stand alone bulb/harness/socket that snaps into the hole. 

Edited by Psquare75 - 29-June-2012 at 2:45AM
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zebra 3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-July-2012 at 4:20PM

This is the wiring information for the STANDARD instrument cluster (warning lights w/ Fuel and Temp. gauges) The pin numbers corresponds with the numbers on the terminal block that plugs into the printed circuit board (part # D6OF-10C956) I used the terminal block from my Torino (born on date 4-9-76)

This information should prove to be valuable for those who are converting from a standard cluster to sport cluster ('74-'75-some '76) OR trouble shooting the standard PCB. '74-'75-some '76

LOCATION     COLOR(S)                               CIRCUIT INFORMATION

PIN 1 Red w/ Yellow hatched marks        ground side (-) of brake (pressure) & oil pressure light socket

PIN 2 Green w/ Yellow stripes                                           positive side (+) of fasten belt light socket

PIN 3 Light Blue w/ Red stripe                                             positive side (+) of the dash light sockets

PIN 4 Black                  ground side (-) of the dash,fasten belt,high beam and turn signal light sockets

PIN 5 White w/ Light Blue stripe                         positive side (+) of the Right turn signal light socket

PIN 6 Light Green w/ White stripe                         positive side (+) of the Left turn signal light socket

PIN 7 Light Green w/ Black stripe                                positive side (+) of the High Beam light socket

PIN 8 2 EA. wires Black      positive side input (female connection on PCB) instrument cluster voltage

                                        regulator       

PIN 9 Yellow w/ White stripe                                                                  ground side (-) of fuel gauge

PIN 10 Light Green w/ Red stripe                 Pin's 10 and 11 both go to the alternator light socket.

PIN 11 2 EA. wires #1 Dark Green               The measurement between pin's 10 and 11 is in Amps.
           #2 Gray w/Yellow stripe                   The light is part of the curciut "loop' between pins 10&11  

 

PIN 12   Red w/ White Stripe                                               ground side (-) of the temperature gauge

PIN 13   White w/ Red stripe                                         ground side (-) of the oil pressure light socket

PIN 14   Purple w/ White stripe                            positive side (+) of the Brake (pressure) light socket

Unlike the sport cluster, there is no circuitry for the parking brake light with the standard cluster PCB

 

       

                                                                

 

 

                                                                                                        

 

                                         .

                                                             

                                                               

                                 

 

 



Edited by Zebra 3 - 01-July-2012 at 4:47PM
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zebra 3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-July-2012 at 4:46PM
This is the wiring information for the sport instrument cluster. The pin numbers corresponds with the numbers on the terminal block that plugs into the printed circuit board (part # D4GF-10C956)

This information should prove to be valuable for those who are converting from a standard cluster to sport cluster ('74-'75-some '76) OR trouble shooting the sport cluster PCB. '74-'75-some '76

LOCATION                         CIRCUIT INFORMATION

PIN 1                      positive side (+) brake (pressure) light socket

PIN 2                     ground side (-) temperature gauge

PIN 3                      positive side (+) dash light sockets

PIN 4                     ground side (-) all light sockets except parking brake and fasten belt

PIN 5                     positive side (+) Right turn signal light socket

PIN 6                     positive side (+) Left turn signal light socket

PIN 7                     positive side (+) high beam light socket

PIN 8                    positive side input (female connection on PCB) instrument cluster voltage regulator

PIN 9                    ground side (-) fuel gauge

PIN 10                  ground side (-) oil pressure gauge

PIN 11                  NOT USED...NO CIRCUIT ON PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD

PIN 12                  positive side (+) parking brake light socket

PIN 13                  positive side (+) fasten belt light socket

PIN 14                  ground side (-) brake (pressure),parking brake and fasten belt light socket

"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Srandaz2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-July-2012 at 9:24AM
This is excellent info, but I am afraid I am a bit confused. So here's my dilemma I purchased a 1977 sport dash for my 1975 gran Torino. I plugged it in and everything seemed to work until I seen my fuel gauge go to 3/4 and the temp gauge went completely to the right - passing behind hot. As for the tach and amp gauge I already assumed I would be rewriting those two .... Can anyone help me here? The guy I bought it from is willing to accept the return but he doesn't have a 1975 / 6 dash and I would really hate to send it back if I can still use it.........any assistance would be greatly appreciated
Steve
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