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INFO: 72 - 79 Gauge Clusters and Wiring

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Srandaz2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Srandaz2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-July-2012 at 2:33PM

Then I will patiently wait for the post - thanks again -

Do you have a S&H Torino? Just curious?

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-July-2012 at 10:59AM
i think i'll end up doing a 'point to point wiring job on whatever i decide to use for a dash display, mine came with the base cluster, i have maybe a couple GT clusters but will probably do something custom. here's an example of 'point to point' in a guitar amp, no PCB's here but they did get through warranty & then some 
 


Edited by Rockatansky - 14-July-2012 at 11:00AM
72 GT Ute
   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote philou Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-November-2012 at 10:50AM
hi all
i'm french and own a 78 ford ranchero.the instrument cluster is the same than torino.my pcb is burned,and i have to put another fuel level gauge(autometer 73 ohms to 10 ohms)i'ld like to know which wires to remove from the pcb 14 pins connector for the new fuel level gauge.thanks in advanceSmile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote philou Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-November-2012 at 8:30PM
nobody can help me?i think to make a custom instrument cluster without pcb,only wires with autometer gauges.i have to learn which wires fit on which gauge.for the turn signals,it is not a problem,i have a controler,but for the other i'm lost.last question,with autometer gauges,do i need the voltage regulator?thanksSmile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-November-2012 at 10:11AM
if you are going to use Autometer mechanical gauges then you would not need the factory Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator (ICVR)
 
what about the fuel level gauge ?


Edited by Rockatansky - 15-November-2012 at 10:12AM
72 GT Ute
   
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philou View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote philou Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-November-2012 at 11:17AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

if you are going to use Autometer mechanical gauges then you would not need the factory Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator (ICVR)
 
what about the fuel level gauge ?
i need to know which wires to remove of the 14 pins connector,and to connect to the new fuel level gauge.i've found a problem today.a few weeks ago,i made a mistake.i've connected the ammeter connectors on the oem fuel level gauge.i saw that the cluster voltage regulator was hot,and 30 mn later,it was cold.this afternoon,i tried to connect my instrument cluster,and the fuel gauge works,but the gas tank is empty,only 15 liters in it,and my fuel level gauge indicates that it is half full.i think the voltage regulator is dead,and 12 volts arrive at the gauge,and this gauge is wrong.is it possible?before i removed my cluster,the fuel level worked.Confusedthe burned place on the pcb is only for the oil pressure,and it is not a problem,i have sunpro gauges for water and oilLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote philou Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-November-2012 at 12:19AM

good news,i have an old instrument cluster removed from a 75 ranchero,i've changed my voltage regulator with the one on the old cluster,and now my fuel level gauge works great.i'm glad,i was right,my volt regul was destroyed and there were too much voltage on my fuel gauge.thanks again for your great helpThumbs Up

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeKarasinski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-March-2013 at 2:54AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Part 5:

Ammeter: To properly install the wiring for the ammeter you need an insulator junction block, one or two (recommended) 14 Gauge fusible links, 30-36 inches of yellow 10 gauge primary wire, and yellow and red 14 gauge primary wire (approximately 12' of each). Install the insulated junction block on the flat boss under the starter solenoid, take the original primary wiring off of the starter solenoid and attach to the insulated junction block, then install the shunt per the diagram below:



 
junction block, Do you mean some thing like this?
And from this picture you show a yellow "original wiring" coming from the junction block.
 
I'm really not getting this. Cry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-March-2013 at 5:56PM
Yes, something like that. 

And you should have a yellow wire somewhere.. I think it powers the entire car.


Paul
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78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeKarasinski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-April-2013 at 1:41AM
OK, so this yellow wire would be connected to the battery side of the selinoid now and I need to move it to the junction block to make this all work?
 
Thank you!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrlcommish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2013 at 3:15PM
Question...I am converting my '72 from standard to sport cluster.  This thread is awesome.  But I don't see much discussion about the actual harnesses.  My old standard harness is pretty rotten, and I worry that if I would buy a used one off eBay or whatever, that it would also have a lot of rot and need rebuilding.  So, has anyone tried this Painless Wiring website?  They supposedly have one:
 
 
Has anyone used this?  Or is this a bad idea?  It IS expensive, I'll say that.  Any thoughts or suggestions?
1972 Gran Torino Sport Fastback, 351C - 2V, Lt Blue, Pertronix Ignitor, dual exhaust with Turbo mufflers, otherwise stock
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2013 at 4:48PM
I have not used one, but I will say in general that Painless makes good products, and the fact that it is geared specifically for Fords of this genre then it should be a reasonable thing to get. If you are comfortable with circuits, electrical troubleshooting and wire connection/splicing methods, then I would recommend it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zjosh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-August-2013 at 3:55PM
do you know the measurements of these openings for the 74 gauges?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carguy47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-August-2013 at 1:37PM
Philou,
search through the forum and there is a wiring diagram for you to review and identify which wires from the pin connector to replace. Short of that, your guess is as good as mine
You have to build em to drive em!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zjosh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-August-2013 at 2:03AM

This photo shows the difference between the '72 and '73 Gauge Cover and the later year covers:

Does anyone the dimension of the gauge opening on the gauge cover for the 74 Torino?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkshelton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2014 at 5:52PM
What can I do if I'm trying to replace my 76 standard cluster with an older standard cluster? Am I SOL?
"Sometimes I wonder if I'm actually UNinventing the wheel"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkshelton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2014 at 5:55PM
The code on the back of my replacement says 72 and it matches the pic that was posted so I'm p pretty sure it's from a 72.
"Sometimes I wonder if I'm actually UNinventing the wheel"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2014 at 6:50PM
according to pg 1 of this thread 72-73 had 12 pin connectors and 74-79 had 14 pin connectors, so it's not looking to good for your swap, unless you had the 12 pin connector with several inches of the wires to splice onto your harness, but with all that work i'd just swap your std. for a sport cluster that's what i did. i had to change 2 or 3 wires into different pin locations and wire the tach and that heavy shunt wire, but it all worked out great
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkshelton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2014 at 7:11PM
Yeah I found that out. My existing harness is bigger. I already have an aftermarket 3 gauge kit installed in the lower dash so what if hook up the appropriate wires directly to the fuel gauge and lights? is that workable?
"Sometimes I wonder if I'm actually UNinventing the wheel"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2014 at 7:34PM
you could do that, just trace down the printed circuit to the pin in the connector one at a time so you know which wire connects to which stud on the back of that stock gauge.
whats wrong with you 76 cluster? i have my std. 74 cluster still, it's now a "parts cluster"


Edited by californiajohnny - 26-July-2014 at 7:38PM
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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