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INFO: Suspension Part Numbers (stock replacement)

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    Posted: 05-December-2010 at 3:28PM
Went to O'Reilly's today with my notebook.
Picked up all the MOOG Part #s and prices to totally rebuild my suspension
 
Here's the Front...
Part Pt# # Needed O'Reilly's Total
FRONT SUSPENSION
Upper Ball Joint K8212 2 32.99 65.98
Lower Ball Joint press in K8197 2 43.99 87.98
Lower Ball Joint Bolt in K8059 2 didn't get price  
Lower Control Arm Inner Bushing  K8082 1 16.99 16.99
Strut Rod Bushing K8207 1 53.99 53.99
Upper Control Arm bushings K8202 2 15.99 31.98
Upper Control Arm kit K8252 2 Special order  
15/16 to 1" sway bar frame bushing K8379 1 8.99 8.99
1-1/16 to 1-1/8" sway bar frame bushing K5253 1 11.49  
Sway Bar end links K8266 2 6.69 13.38
TOTAL       279.29
 
O'Reilly's and MOOG book show bushings for Rear Lower Control Arms ONLY,
Nothing about Uppers or Sway Bars
REAR SUSPENSION
Lower Control Arm Bushings K8135 2 29.99 59.98
Upper Control Arm Bushings        
Rear Sway bar to frame bushings        
Rear Sway bar end links        
 
ALL these parts work on all 72-79 cars we have, SAME stuff on the 71-79 T-Bird as well!!!
So the BIGGER 71-76 T-Bird uses SAME stuff as the MidSize stuff.
 
Anyone have MOOG part numbers and/or pricing for the ones I am missing above?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2010 at 3:49PM
WOW!
Ford used the hell out of these Upper Ball Joints...
 
It says the MOOG K8212 fits ALL these vehicles...
 
1958-1960 EDSEL & THUNDERBIRD; 
1957-1964 FORD & MERCURY; 
1965-1978 FORD CUSTOM 500, GALAXIE, LTD, MERCURY MARQUIS & MONTEREY; 
1973-1979 FORD LTD II; 
1974-1978 MUSTANG; 
1971-1980 PINTO; 
1972-1979 RANCHERO, TORINO; 
1967-1979 THUNDERBIRD; 
1970-1979 LINCOLN ALL; 
1968-1969 MARK III; 
1974-1980 BOBCAT;
1974-1979 COUGAR; 
1973-1978 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS; 
1972-1976 MERCURY MONTEGO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2010 at 3:54PM
I didn't realize the lower Ball joint had 2 options of bolt-in or press-in.
 
the Yellow 72 and the 72 Montego both had bolt-in, so I am using those lower control arms.
Rather be able to replace parts than have to take them completely off and pay to have them pressed in/out.
 
Makes for better on the road repairs if ever needed and NO worries of the press messing up the paint or the LCA itself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2010 at 4:09PM
The make a tool called a C press for pressing ball joints,can even buy a cheap version from Harbor Freight.Had to do my lower balljoints on my 97 Explorer,was very easy to press them out and new ones in.Bolt on style ofcourse is easier.My uppers on Explorer are non servicable,you have to buy the whole control arm which cost me $150 per side from NAPA .Haven't looked at my 72 to see what style balljoints they have.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2010 at 4:30PM
Yes Jeff I know that! lol
I am just saying I LIKE the bolt-in... NO ISSUES when changing!
EASY to replace!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ilyes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2010 at 4:40PM
thanks for the list, i don't have to go through it now, it's already ready for me Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2010 at 4:54PM
Originally posted by ilyes ilyes wrote:

thanks for the list, i don't have to go through it now, it's already ready for me Big smile
Yup for me too!
Just go order the parts and drop off the $280 for all the parts.
 
I am going with the MOOG stuff.
taking no chance with cheap stuff!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 1:38AM
73 and up might be press in? I've never seen a bolt in lower ball joint for a midsize.
 
We should add the #s for the poly bushings as well
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 1:50AM
I don't have numbers for Poly.
If someone else has them all with prices and locations... please post
I am working on updating the first post with the Rock Auto prices for the SAME MOOG only parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iangj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 1:53AM
In 30 years I have never seen a Bolt in Lower ball joint on these Fords. Always a press in.
I'd love to see a picture
Ian Glyn-Jones
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 1:56AM

Keeping the suspension talk here... I need some info.

I am using all MOOG numbers for comparison BUT Rock Auto has
Moog, TRW, McQuay-Norris, Raybestos and a bunch of off-name brand parts.
 
This might be a matter of personal preference or opinion but...
What is the biggest difference between the 4 above?
Is MOOG really that much better than TRW and Raybestos?
 
I remember when I was working in a shop that MANY products were manufactured by the same company but packaged for the different companies.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 3:17AM
It's still the same. Raybestos has two levels of parts in some cases, a "professional grade" and a "service grade". There is a difference, at least when it comes to ball joints. 

My unprofessional opinion of quality
Best >>> Worst
Moog / TRW/Ray Prof / Mcquay / Ray Service...... Other (like Mevotech). 

The parts stores are a crap shoot. Autozone (Duralast) does use reboxed TRW and Ray Prof.. but also some service grade parts.

Note that through Rock Auto, Moog has a lifetime warranty. Some others may as well. This isn't to say that your wheel will fall off with a Mevotech ball joint.. Just that, again, IMO, a Moog Ball Joint will last 100K miles with proper grease maintenance, while a Mevotech may last..... 50K.. These are blind numbers as an example. I have no facts to back this up.


Edited by Psquare75 - 06-December-2010 at 3:19AM
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 3:20AM
Suspension.com Energy Suspension numbers and prices.

Fairlane, Grand Torino, Torino, Elite, (Ranchero after 3/15/72)
How do we define the word 'SET'.  
A 'SET' has enough bushings to do the left and right sides of vehicle. 
Control arm bushing sets will also include lower & upper positions, if required.
 
Order one set per vehicle
YEARFRONT END CONTROL 
ARM BUSHING 

SET
You must re-use the outer metal shells.  
Do not remove with an air chisel.

REAR END CONTROL 
ARM BUSHING 

SET
You must re-use the outer metal shells.  
Do not remove with an air chisel.

STRUT ROD
BUSHING 

SET
SWAY BAR 
BUSHING 

SET
Please measure the diameter of 
the sway bar before ordering.

FRONT END 
LINK 

SET
TIE-ROD END
BOOTS 

(PR.)
72-794.3111 (2) 
$34.00
must use
existing outer shells

4.3120 (24) 
$65.00
4.7117 
$22.00
See sway bar bushings page9.8118 
$18.00
9.13101 
$4.00
Weight
1.7#
5.2#
1.0#
1.0#
1.3#
0.2#
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iangj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 3:32AM
Can someone who has bought the front 4.3111g set check them for me. I'm wondering if mine were packaged wrong. The set I got are WAY to big for the front control arms both upper & lower. I don't want to order another set to find they are also wrong.
All the rear parts were fine and easy to install. Note on the rear;
-The lowers come with shells. It's the uppers that you have to reuse the shells.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 3:45AM
I have 4.3111 in my Cougars and my 76 Elite.. They fit fine. Drill or melt out the OEM bushing, and install them into your existing shell. I used two large sockets and a block of wood with a hammer
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iangj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 5:28AM
I'll have to take a picture so you'll understand what I mean by WAY to big. They are at least 2.5 times the diameter. That's why I wanted to see another set to see if mine were packaged wrong.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 5:56AM
Here's my old control arms.


That help?

This is what they looked like



Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iangj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 6:14AM
Now that's the right ones!
So my set were packaged wrong then.
Thanks for the help. I will order another set right away.
Ian Glyn-Jones
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 8:05AM
Some thoughts:

1.  Bolt-in lower control arm ball joint.

I saw (had) such an arm about 15 years ago when I was working on my Elite. I had messed up the arm in a vice (my first time doing it), and a wrecking yard got me the arm. I think it was off a 72 LTD or something like that. It had the bolt in ball joint. I did not realize it until later, and I ended up taking it back. The wrecking yard was a little miffed, to them they were interchangeable, but when you have already purchased one type of ball joint, I wanted it to be all the same.

As the years have gone by, I wonder if maybe the bolt in would have been better. Would make for easier changing, for sure. I presume that it would hold up as well as a press in (meaning I would not expect the bolts to break or anything over time).

2.  For parts I used on my last major suspension rebuild I will email to Carl so he can update his master spreadsheet. I used mostly TRW parts where possible. I had not known at the time that Moog was the top choice to use. However, it is important to note that I considered the TRW ball joints to be superior to the NAPA ones I had used back in 1996. The TRW seemed to be made much better and also the grease boot actually fit on the ball joint when it was installed into the arm (I had great troubles with that when using the NAPA ones). So I know there are different makes out there of these parts.

3.  I had rubber bushings used on my 75 Sport a few years ago when I had the suspension rebuilt it in. I had a shop do it (I literally did not have the time to consider doing it myself), and while I was generally unimpressed with the suspension (and a year or two later it had gotten worse), I am not sure how much I can blame the shop (which made errors I found later) and how much I have to accept was the rubber bushings. I used poly on the 73 Sport, but since it has turned into a larger resto project, it has never been driven with the new suspension and the fancy AGR steering gear on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 9:33AM
Question to Gary (Torinogts73c):

In the past, one of the things that has concerned me with all of the suspension replacement work and all of the replacing of stuff with new, there are two bolts and two nuts that I was never able to find.

The two bolts and the captive self locking nuts that go through the upper A-arm shaft and into the frame, along with the mating nuts that have the rectangular piece of steel sheet to captivate them  - I have never been able to find a part number for them, or if they are available new?

Can you find if they are available from Ford? Or a part number and I can check with Green Sales?

Much appreciated!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 9:34AM
Not Gary, but you can make one in a pinch. The bolts aren't anything special, either. 
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2010 at 9:54AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Not Gary, but you can make one in a pinch. The bolts aren't anything special, either. 


That would be cool as well. I suspect they are not available anymore, but it would be nice if Gary could check.

I think it is the one part that you really can not replace as easily with new as the other stuff. And since I had damaged one once (way back on my Elite) I know that if it is not 100% then it can loosen up and really mess up your alignment!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-December-2010 at 3:29PM
Not a very good pic but here is a quick shot I took of the 72 Montego with the bolt in ball joint.
 
I have not confirmed the underside of the arm yet. BUSY with other work, just thought I'd start to post the bolt in stuff.
 
Just went and checked... the yellow 72 has this same set up.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2010 at 1:46AM
Here is Scott's list...
 
Front Suspension Part List
1973 Ford Gran Torino Sport
Parts
Description Retailer Part Number # req'd unit Price per unit Notes
Steering Gear AGR Systems   1 ea $398.00 Variable Ratio
Front Coil Spring Insulators Eaton ES6053 2 ea $12.20  
Front Coil Spring Set Eaton MC1392 1 pr $145.00 http://www.eatonsprings.com/
Rear Coil Spring Set Eaton MC1995 1 pr $145.00 http://www.eatonsprings.com/
Polyurethane Steering Coupler John's Mustang CSC-311 1 ea $20.00 Mustang 67-73
Bolt, caliper NAPA UP 82257  2 ea $2.49  
Caliper, LH NAPA UP 4424000 1 ea $41.99  
Caliper, RH NAPA UP 4424001 1 ea $41.99  
Control Arm Bumper (upper) NAPA NCP2654001 2 ea $6.00  
Dust Cap, rotor NAPA BK 7302436 2 ea $3.49  
Inner Bearing, front NAPA BR13 2 ea $10.49 For 72 T-bird rotors
Outer Bearing, front NAPA BR12 2 ea $9.49 For 72 T-bird rotors
Rotor, front NAPA UP 85540  2 ea $154.00 72 Thunderbird
Spindle nut kit, front NAPA BK 6301524 2 ea $5.69  
Wheel Seal, front NAPA NOS19221 2 ea $2.99 For 72 T-bird rotors
Center Link PartsAmerica DS901 1 ea $90.00  
Coil Spring Compressor PartsAmerica 648603 1 ea $32.00  
Control Arm Bumper (lower) PartsAmerica TRW 14200 2 ea $8.00  
Front Shocks PartsAmerica EDL-3366 2 ea $69.00 92-96 crown vic
Idler Arm PartsAmerica TRW 18751 1 ea $65.00  
Inner Tie Rod PartsAmerica TRW DS802 2 ea $67.00  
Lower Ball Joint PartsAmerica TRW10266 2 ea $48.00  
Outer Tie Rod PartsAmerica TRW ES439L 2 ea $27.00  
Pitman Arm PartsAmerica TRW 18776 1 ea $83.00  
Rear Coil Spring Insulators PartsAmerica   2 ea $5.00 Rubber, no poly avail
Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve PartsAmerica TRW ES426S 2 ea $25.00  
Upper Ball Joint PartsAmerica TRW10262 2 ea $35.00  
Front Spindles + Caliper Brackets Shulls wrecking   2 ea $45.00 72 T-bird, L+R (used)
Polyurethane Control Arm Bushing Kit SRP 4-3111 1 pr $26.00  
Polyurethane Front End Link Set SRP 9-8118 1 pr $15.00  
Polyurethane Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit SRP 9-5164 1 pr $16.00  
Polyurethane Strut Rod Bushing Kit SRP 4-7117 1 pr $15.00  
Polyurethane Tie Rod Boots SRP 9-13101 2 pr $3.00  
Front Sway Bar Kit - 1 1/4" Summit ACO-848G 1 ea $149.88  
Rear Shocks Summit EDL-3466 2 ea $75.00 92-96 crown vic
Rear Sway Bar Kit - 7/8" Summit ACO-938G 1 ea $149.88 http://www.addco.net
Power Steering Pump NAPA NPS206098 1 ea $52.99  
Rear shock lower mount bolt NAPA 6501100 2 ea $8.00 for 79 T-bird
Vaccum booster PartsAmerica 5473307 1 ea $97.00  
Fluid Cooler, Power Steering Summit PRM-1001  1 ea $31.88  
Power Steering Pulley Summit MCH-502 1 ea $67.88  
             
             
TOTAL         $2,305.33  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2010 at 5:35AM
"To bolt or not to bolt"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2010 at 5:52AM
Some of these prices listed seem extremely high.
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2010 at 5:59AM
It was a spreadsheet I had put together several years back and may or may not reflect what I actually purchased, from where and for how much. It was a plan I had put together. I think there was some actual variation in some of the parts.

Were there specific parts that seemed too high? I suppose I could go through and make a new chart based on Carl's research into Moog parts as the preferred since it seems we all agree Moog is the number one choice. Also I could get prices from Rock Auto if the Moog is available there, since they seem to be cheaper?
Scott Eklund

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2010 at 6:41AM
Rock Auto does have Moog, and seems to be cheapest
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
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79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2010 at 6:44AM
I'll work on the spreadsheet this weekend. I need to update it anyway, because before I spend all that time to tear the front off my 75 to get the engine in, etc, I will go ahead and get new front suspension / steering in (and 460 coil springs).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2010 at 6:55AM
I might be the only guy in the planet that likes small block springs with a big block, lol.

Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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