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INFO: THE coil spring thread

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72FordGTS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2016 at 3:19PM
You'll have to cut the springs shorter.  I cut half a coil off mine, I know one member cut 3/4 of a coil on a 1972 with a 351W.  Wagons are much more rear biased in their balance do I wouldn't be surprised if you need to cut a fair amount to get your correct stance.  Those Monroe's are a good "poor mans" alternative to the high priced Bilsteins.  Don't forget to do your rear shocks too.
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2016 at 4:15PM
I cut about 1/2 coil off my fronts. With a 460 and no A/C, it sits well. Once I install all the front pieces, it should drop another 1/2 inch or so from what you see here.



Edited by unlovedford - 28-September-2016 at 4:19PM
Joe
1972 GTSquire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino       
1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2016 at 5:23PM
i'd agree on this thread. My purpose in starting this was to keep it more technical however it sort has become an insane animal that took on it's own life. I never expected ti to develop into 27+ pages...

This winter is looking to be a long one for me. Rear springs are on the list. I need to re-group and look at my rear springs as I am running springs from a Moog NORS pair I got off ebay that was for a 75-76 Thunderbird.
Keep in mind I road trip a lot and we load the trunk down.  I'd love to try bilstein shocks but thus far I've been happy with the KYB mono tube shocks. 

Side note: Watch your front shock hardware. As like everything else with out cars I had hardware break on my a few years ago when i was running the cut down Lincoln mark v front coils and beat the heck out of my motorcraft police spec shocks.

Has anyone started an Excel spreadsheet as of yet?
Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-November-2016 at 12:57AM
This thread is a beast...
We really need to distill this into a "spring guide" with different spring packages.  Some folks want a highway cruiser, some a drag car, others more street/track handling performance.   Sedan, fastback, wagon, etc.

More like a wiki page I guess.   There is so much in this thread that anyone (especially a new member) will have a hard time to find anything.
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-November-2016 at 1:25AM
Originally posted by Eliteman76 Eliteman76 wrote:


This winter is looking to be a long one for me. Rear springs are on the list. I need to re-group and look at my rear springs as I am running springs from a Moog NORS pair I got off ebay that was for a 75-76 Thunderbird.
Keep in mind I road trip a lot and we load the trunk down.  I'd love to try bilstein shocks but thus far I've been happy with the KYB mono tube shocks. 

Side note: Watch your front shock hardware. As like everything else with out cars I had hardware break on my a few years ago when i was running the cut down Lincoln mark v front coils and beat the heck out of my motorcraft police spec shocks.

Has anyone started an Excel spreadsheet as of yet?
I have really good luck with Moog 8307 (158 in/lbs) springs in the rear.  I also ran Moog 8531 (183 in/lbs), but found them a bit too stiff for our rough roads out here.
 
I have several Excel sheets I have been working on over the years that list the factory springs and all the aftermarket options for these cars.  I am still working on collecting the 1973 info as time allows. Unfortunately after 1973 Ford does not list full specs in their parts catalogs.  The spring rates on these new springs were only listed on a tag on the actual springs.
 
I plan to start a new thread where it is an easier to use guide. This thread needs to stay as a place where people can post their experiences while a guide can be a place that brings it all together.  The problem is many guys want lowered cars with out of the box springs which just isn't an option without custom springs.
Vince

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Richard W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richard W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-January-2017 at 6:52PM
Great info. Looking for advise. I don't want to cut coils. I want to throw in new springs that will stop my front end from diving and wallowing when I hit a bump on the freeway. My suspension is tight but My Brouham has soft spings with 351w. If uncut coils raise my car 1 inch that's fine. Any thoughts about Moog coil numbers and more importantly, shocks. I like a stiff ride and stock ride height. I'm thinking Bilstine, especially the coil over Bilstine. I will run Ranchos with separate resivoir if it will help. Let me know if you have the time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Power Surge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2017 at 1:45PM
Ok....so the nose is off the car, but the motor/trans is in the car, and when I let the car down the bumpstops don't even come off the frame, lol. The Coyote is about 200 lbs lighter than the 351M. 

So basically, I need to drop the nose because of the less engine weight, PLUS I also want to drop the car about 2 inches lower than stock. 

Any suggestions on how much to cut off stock springs?
Sal Mennella
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Past Torinos - 72 Gran Torino, 75 Gran Torino, 75 Elite
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2017 at 6:26PM
obviously springs vary due to rate, ETC. but a general rule of thumb i go by is ... 1/2 a coil = 1" drop in theory, so i'd say cut 1 full coil and check it! you can always cut more if needed. cut both and replace them (leave the ball joint nuts finger tight, so you can take them back apart if needed)(once you get the drop you're happy with, then tighten the nuts) also when it's all back together and off the jacks roll the car back and forth a few feet to allow the tires to get positioned and see  the drop, if you don't it sit about an inch higher than if it rolls to relax everything Wink
 also it will be about an inch higher without the front clip on it Wink 
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote n2fordwagons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2017 at 12:43AM
Isn't there a maximum number of coils one should cut from their springs?  I would think that Sal will need to cut a significant number of coils to achieve the amount of desired drop.
And, obviously, you'll want to put the nose back on the car before you start cutting springs, and playing around with things. 
Jeff

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2017 at 12:45AM
When I was lowering my Ranchero, I also cut the front coils(as well as the rear coils), I used this calculator to help determine how much needed to be trimmed off the overall length to get to my desired ride height. That said, it really boils down to actually installing the coil springs and accurately measuring how much of the coil needs cut off for the look you are wanting. Not sure if this calculator has been posted in this thread, very helpful to me in determining a target installed height as I was cutting the coil springs. http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm 
 
 Hope this is helpful.


Edited by aquartlow - 17-January-2017 at 12:46AM
www.supermotors.net/22468
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote changinlatitudes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2017 at 1:28AM
Is there a rule of thumb when it comes to actually cutting the coil? As in....how to properly cut it with a cut-off wheel. At an angle? One particular side (top or bottom?)
Matt

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2017 at 4:58AM
Cut the "square" end of the spring(it locates in the bottom control arm). I used a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut-off wheel, cut straight across the spring wire and then "JUST" taper(de-burr) the cut to remove the sharp edge. I used a piece of 1" masking tape wrapped around the spring the first time to help keep cut straight, the next ones were free handed.  
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2017 at 5:08AM
Originally posted by n2fordwagons n2fordwagons wrote:

Isn't there a maximum number of coils one should cut from their springs?  I would think that Sal will need to cut a significant number of coils to achieve the amount of desired drop.
And, obviously, you'll want to put the nose back on the car before you start cutting springs, and playing around with things. 
 
Jeff, you saw my Ranchero at last year's Moonshine fest, I cut my front springs "a ton" to get the tucked look with my 27.7" tall tires(245-40-20's). I actually used a set of front springs from a '99-'03 Ford Lightning, stock they are 13.94" at free height, I cut them down to 10.75" free height to achieve the ride/look I was shooting for. These springs are robust with .812" spring wire diameter. I figure I have between 900-950 in lb spring rate, sounds like a lot, but the BBF/C6 combo plus accessories makes the ride surprisingly comfortable while being "sporty"(maybe not the best wording) for such a large and front-heavy ride.
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2017 at 10:48AM
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

Cut the "square" end of the spring(it locates in the bottom control arm). I used a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut-off wheel, cut straight across the spring wire and then "JUST" taper(de-burr) the cut to remove the sharp edge. I used a piece of 1" masking tape wrapped around the spring the first time to help keep cut straight, the next ones were free handed.  
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74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2017 at 11:29AM
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2017 at 11:56AM
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

Cut the "square" end of the spring(it locates in the bottom control arm). I used a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut-off wheel, cut straight across the spring wire and then "JUST" taper(de-burr) the cut to remove the sharp edge. I used a piece of 1" masking tape wrapped around the spring the first time to help keep cut straight, the next ones were free handed.  
 
+2
 
This is the same method I used.  Todd described the correct end to cut be it's actually called the tangential end, not the square end.  The Square end fits into the frame and is "squared" up so that it sits flat.
 
 
 
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2017 at 12:17PM
Originally posted by 72FordGTS 72FordGTS wrote:

Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

Cut the "square" end of the spring(it locates in the bottom control arm). I used a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut-off wheel, cut straight across the spring wire and then "JUST" taper(de-burr) the cut to remove the sharp edge. I used a piece of 1" masking tape wrapped around the spring the first time to help keep cut straight, the next ones were free handed.  
 
+2
 
This is the same method I used.  Todd described the correct end to cut be it's actually called the tangential end, not the square end.  The Square end fits into the frame and is "squared" up so that it sits flat.
 
 
 
 
Vince,
 You are 100% correct, thank you for catching my error( I hate giving erroneous info Ouch), I had the terminology "bass-ackwards".
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote changinlatitudes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-January-2017 at 12:57AM
Appreciate the info! I like a good visual, so between that and the video John posted, I think I got it.
Matt

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