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sabatona View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: intermittant smoke
    Posted: 23-May-2012 at 5:47AM
Hi all.
I have a 73 351 4V CJ with 73k miles. Had not been started for 4 years until lately.
 
Ocassionally when I start it the car plumes blue smoke out of the exhaust.. It only does it every say 15th or 20th start...
 
Im guessing its dried up valve seals, but before I decide to pull it apart and replace the seals I just wanted to see if anyone else as had this same problem,, and what the solution was????
 
Motor runs super smooth, and has good compression on all cylinders, so the valves seem to be fine.
 
Thanks in advance.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-May-2012 at 8:42AM
valve seal test.

start car when cold, after a day of sitting. should be no smoke, to very little

turn car off after 20 minutes.

restart car after 15-20 minutes

should be big plume of smoke that fades.

Paul
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-May-2012 at 9:16AM
One (or more) may be lifting of the seat intermittently. Problem is it would be far to softer blow to actually hear it.

1973 Q code sports roof
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sabatona View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-May-2012 at 9:20AM
This intermittant smoke only occurs on the first start cold. Does not matter if the car sits overnight, or for a week.
For example, I had the car running each day last Friday, Sat, and Sunday, no smoke at all.
I started it last night, plumes of blue smoke.....
It has done this to me 5 or 6 times now in the last 2 months.
My mechanic said the valve seals were really dry/hard, so Im thinking that occasionally when I shut the car off a valve seal (or several) is/are not sealed, and the oil from atop the head drains into the cylinder/cylinders.....
Im thinking that since the car sat for 4 years outside in the hot southern Kentucky heat (and who knows how long it sat before that...) that the seals are just hardened and will not soften up.
Just was hoping someone else here had this same problem to confirm what I and my mechanic buddy are thinking is going on......
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-May-2012 at 9:34AM
Some Googling revealed that it very well could be valve seals.


Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-May-2012 at 10:55AM
Great. Its driving me nuts, especially when it does it when I have the car backed into the garage! Guess this is next on the list after I finish the brakes......Thanks for the info.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2012 at 1:21AM
The 6G72 Mitsubishi V6 (found in lots of late 80s and early 90s Chrysler products, Hyundai Sonatas, and of course Galants and other Mitsubishis) would do this too but it was so bad it would smoke at every stoplight.

80s Chevy 305/350 engines would do this, too.

I actually LIKE this sort of oil burning. If kept topped off it's a great way to keep people from tailgating you. There's a maroon 1993 Dynasty for sale in Oklahoma with the 3.0 engine and it smokes like that and it's cheap and I'd love to pick it up and piss people off around town.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2012 at 3:07AM

FYI: I fired it up last night and took it for a test drive with the new front ball joints, all new front brakes, and new tires/rims. No smoke at all, and she is really starting to drive great!

That 351 CJ was just singing, and now that it has breaks to stop, and good tires, I was letting it breath a little. She really has some ponies under the hood, and the dual exhaust sounded great as I was crusing through our development (not sure all the neighbors would agree though!).
 
After I finish up on the brakes I think I will pull both valve covers and possibly do seals, lifters, and pushrods to see if this will cure the occasional smoking issue. I really do not want it to smoke at all, so I am going to do whatever I need to do to get it sorted out.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2012 at 9:11AM
These are the best seals you can get. Problem is they will not sit well on the "pedestal" (if that's the right word for them) without machining them = probably heads off

     


this it them machined 




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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2012 at 9:13AM
Addition - If you are planning to pull heads, may pay to look at doing the Valve guides  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2012 at 9:26AM
Kenneth,

I have been meaning to ask - Any oil seepage under the gaskets on the painted mating surfaces? I may try that tip on mine if it works. Thanks

Sabatona,

That is great news. I hope to see you and the car at a show soon!

Alan,

I had a WORN OUT 1981 Mercedes 240 diesel that smoked horrifically. Those engines ran dirty anyhow, but 300K hard miles from the previous owner just wore it out. Used 1.5 quarts of oil per tank. I was stopped in wreck traffic on I-75 one night on my way to my GF house in that car. This guy in a big pickup kept edging his way around everyone (intimidating them) and worked his way up behind me. Here we were, stuck like Chuck going nowhere and he edges right against my rear bumper with all his lights blaring. I thought "F you, dude" and popped that little 4 banger oil burner in neutral and just planted my foot on the floor. Huge ball of white/blue/black smoke blasting right through his grill and under his front bumper. Guy is coughing and choking and everyone around is laughing and clapping. Nowhere to go, so he just had to endure it. Flipped me off when we got moving, my car sounded like ducks pecking corn out of a tin can, but worth every minute. Miss that thing.

Joe
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1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino       
1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2012 at 2:54PM

Yeah Joe

I haven’t really put enough hours on it to be sure at this stage, but currently the answer is no leeks at all. Maybe 3 hours on her so far, and some of them were with WOT.

I do a “reclaim the city” run tonight, this will be my longest drive too date = 1.5 hours there, then around town (with about 30 rods) then the return trip. I will keep you posted.

You will note I have studs rather than bolts; the same is true for my sump, and so far no leeks. I also used Fel-Pro kit.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-May-2012 at 2:27AM
Very cool. I've thought and thought about this and figured that if the surfaces are very clean and grease-free, the paint would actually fill in small imperfections on the mating surfaces and theoretically make a much smoother surface. Please let us know the outcome.
Joe
1972 GTSquire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino       
1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous
Popeye and Brutus (Rams)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-May-2012 at 8:39PM
Well I can report on NO leeks what so ever so far.
I must admit to spending a lot of time making sure all the tins were perfectly true & square prior to paint, and preparing the mating surfaces extremely well before painting them as well.
All tins were placed on a steel flat surface and the lips beaten level. 
I can understand how the full squirt after assembly is beneficial, it just wasn't the look I was going for.   
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