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Land Rover Series 1 resurrection

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Nuggets View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03-February-2017 at 12:29PM
Well as the Torino is now dead for a while I've moved back to something I used to mess with before I bought the old muscle car.......

Say hello to my little friend! 1957 88" Series 1 Land Rover, I got it back in 2014 before the prices went stupid, took it green laning, killed the engine (forgot to turn the electric fan on and cooked a head), rebuilt that engine, lost interest, sold the engine, put a new engine in, lost interest and bought the Torino so sold that engine to fund some speed parts, bought another engine then sold it again when I decided it had to be a V8 not an Essex V6, lost interest again....and now the White Whale is dead and a bit more costly to repair than this I'm back to rebuilding the 88!

So here are a few old pics, a video and some new pics.

This has been going for a while on another forum so I'm just going to post the progress in then update. Here I've cut the old engine mounts as I'm going to custom mount the new engine.....the motor a 3.5L Rover (not my favourite engine by a longshot but it was only 2 packs of Haribo!)


Bit of off road action and I'm pretty sure this was the lane I cracked the head on


http://youtu.be/9_Ld4FXxWLo


And the pics!


So this was it when it was in use









And that brings use nicely onto here where some magic is about to take place! My welding skills haven't really been taxed for a while and I've had this to repair, new engine mounts to make and a set of 12 Merlin engine exhaust stub pipes to fabricate.












Edited by Nuggets - 03-February-2017 at 12:30PM
Barnaby

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Front end off and chopped the old mounts then prepped the frame ready to be welded.











Finally a baby V8! Its strange being able to carry the block round one handed when I cant even do that with one of the 429 heads without struggling! The valve pic is one of my 429 intake valves Vs. the whole chamber of the 3.5








Barnaby

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 12:35PM
Nuggets wrote:
" I decided it had to be a V8 not an Essex V6"
I'm going to guess your Essex V6 is a different engine than our Essex V6.
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 12:36PM
Carried the mock up block round to where the car is languishing and bolted it up, real nice being able to hold an engine block with one arm and wrestle it into place whilst having a hand free to stick the bolts through the bellhousing and tighten it!
Couldn't do that with the 429!

So plan of action is to triangulate the chassis mounts back to the chassis then put a nice radius on them so they don't look so agricultural, take a set of standard engine mounts and modify them to bolt up to the new chassis tabs then pull the mock up block out and drop in the new running one thats arriving next Monday......simple right?

The modified mounts will have two positions one 4" further back than the other, this will allow me to do a 5 speed conversion in the future as the engine needs to come 4" forward in order to allow the transfer case and handbrake assembly to clear the central crossmember







Barnaby

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 12:37PM
Originally posted by Big Bird Big Bird wrote:


Nuggets wrote:
" I decided it had to be a V8 not an Essex V6"
I'm going to guess your Essex V6 is a different engine than our Essex V6.



Essex is a 2.8 or 3L V6 usually found in Ford Capris over here
Barnaby

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 12:39PM
Managed to get a little welding in and remembered how much I hate welding bodywork, its not pretty but its solid now.




















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Edited by Nuggets - 03-February-2017 at 12:43PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 12:43PM
Our Essex sixes are 3.8 and 4.2 liter. 3.8 was smallish/weak, the 4.2 was used in F150 and wasn't bad.
I feel your pain on welding bodywork. I'm real good at making scrap out of repairable panels.
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 12:46PM
Originally posted by Big Bird Big Bird wrote:


Our Essex sixes are 3.8 and 4.2 liter. 3.8 was smallish/weak, the 4.2 was used in F150 and wasn't bad.
I feel your pain on welding bodywork. I'm real good at making scrap out of repairable panels.



Funkily enough I bought myself a mug after this job.....haven't owned one for a while and it's made a couple of jobs this week so much easier than setting up the TIG or stick!

If our Essex engines were that size I'd have kept it! The Rover V8 has about the same power but sounds a lot better hence I went with one....for the fourth time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 12:49PM
The new engine, this is what a 14,000 mile engine looks like internally.

















Now as a 5 speed LT77-LT230 set up comes in around 8" longer than an LT76 Series transmission I have to move the engine forward in order to make it all work.

To do this I've simply made up some ally brackets with slots cut out, not neat but for measurement purposes it'll be fine. Plan is to slide the engine all the way forward (I know I need to leave 6" for the crank pulleys and water pump)

From there I can mark up exactly where the engine can sit in its maximum forward position and work back from there. The box actually only needs about 4" more clearance so you can get the hand brake drum off easily.....so basically I'll shove the engine and box back as far as I can if theres any leftover space, but the further forward I can get away with putting it the better the rear prop shaft angle





Seat box out and some measurements taken.

LT77 = 31 1/2" long, front drive flange 11" back from bellhousing lip

The space between engine and central crossmember is 32"

Pushing the engine forward 3 3/4" should allow enough space to take off the handbrake drum, if not a disc setup can be used

Wide angle UJs will solve the short ish rear prop issue

Amazingly my rough xxxxxxx engine mounts for mock up both lined up perfectly....s'aaaall good so far




















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 12:52PM
About the most sunlight the series has seen in years.....removed the tarps and shoved it into a new position to work on. Much nicer now its not facing down a hill

Also turns out the new LT77 isn't in too bad a condition underneath the xxxxload of grime but its definitely not a one man lift like I thought it was....LT76 no problem as I lifted that out easily, but this must have another 50kg on the series box!


























Welded up the chassis mounts, not the nicest job crouching between chassis rails.....but can you guess which side I xxxxed up the measurements on?





















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If I fits I sits! Might be a tight squeeze but it's in the series and ready for a top end rebuild now 😆
Just wish I wasn't working on a xxxxing gravel hill.....

Got the fat crack in the bellhousing welded up by a friend too. Landrover aluminium quality is absolutely xxxx.







































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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 1:14PM
Got the gearbox and transfercase in, just need to make up some mounts for it












Modified a crank pulley earlier, can see the amount of space this will give back when installed.


The engine will only run an alternator, the water pump is being replaced with an electric one so I'll fabricate a blanking plate with -16 fittings on it





Minor injury from the other week.......the nice A&E nurse said I wasn't allowed to get it wet, get oil on it or lift anything heavy to make sure it stays sealed up.....that set me back 2 weeks


Rather annoyed considering it happened due to excessive health and safety......had I not been made to use a xxxxing clamp to hold what I was cutting and done it the normal way like I would at home, this wouldn't have happened!







To add insult to injury....look what turned up the day after





Edited by Nuggets - 03-February-2017 at 1:15PM
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Anyway fast forward to the end of last week



How do you make sure a blanking plate fits? Butcher the piece it's replacing for a template.

So an AN-16 fitting welded to the front of it, plus hose is still shorter than the old pump. That frees up space for a deeper rad. Then on the crank pulley....losing the pump drive gains about 2.5" back and saves paying out the arse for a P6 set up, that would be around £280! EWP cost me £110 and by the time I've bought AN-16 hoses I'll be around the £160 mark, much more palatable























And that brings us nicely on to today!

Isn't it fun working on a gravel slope.....

Had to finish welding up the transfer case mount which was simple but after that xxxx went south. Pulled the engine to do the clutch, no issue getting it out of the engine bay but apparently no matter how many blocks of woods and bottle jacks I used I couldn't get the angle right to put the engine back onto the box!
This meant I had to split the transfer case and gearbox again, wouldn't be an issue if the transfer case wasn't the best part of 50kg and awkwardly shaped. Managed to wrestle the engine back onto its mounts then man handle the box into clutch...

On the plus side I am now a prop shaft, clutch pedal and a bit of wiring away from being able to attempt and drive it round the yard

After that it'll just be a case of making up a new seat box, floor, bolting the wings back on then sorting out the cooling and charging system got all the parts, they just need a bit of tweaking!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2017 at 2:10PM
Clap nice work!
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2017 at 5:47AM
Front crossmember clearance issues solved with the EWP set up, can even get the handbrake drum on and off without moving the transfer case. 

Also started my least favourite job...deciphering 59 year old electrical wiring....custom dash is going in with better made gauges. 

 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-February-2017 at 8:58AM
Well it's starting to look like a landrover again! Spent today drilling and tapping the buggered exhaust manifolds, refitting the wings and my new radiator arrived....the to do list is getting shorter


The rad is for a 70-73 Cuda with smallblock, should keep the terribly unreliable Rover cool. As will the no bonnet thing as my cars sit a little too high to close the bonnet due to being raised for the transmission swap. I'll build a new one at some point but first up is the custom seatbox, ally for that arrives tomorrow








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Thumbs Up
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2017 at 8:21AM
Stuck the radiator where I want it, just need to make some brackets to weld to the cage and then build an enclosure just incase something bad happens and it decides to spit fluid!
Coming along nicely now, mostly requiring left now that the body has been bolted back together 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2017 at 6:05PM
Shocked hey, if you reverse the fan you now have one hell of a heater inside Thumbs Up

Edited by californiajohnny - 10-February-2017 at 6:06PM
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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