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"Major Redmond" / lynchster

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lynchster View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-April-2017 at 3:07PM
I'm taking mine out to have a stainless system done. Probably flatbed it out there but to drive it out there with 4' of pipe attached to each manifold wouldn't be a first. I did open headers for about 15 miles once.
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-April-2017 at 6:37PM
304 grade or 409?
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-April-2017 at 2:08AM
Dunno yet. So far away from there.
Round two with the two dash cracks went well I think. Time will tell

Edited by lynchster - 12-April-2017 at 2:09AM
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-April-2017 at 7:15AM
Just glued the last of the dash cracks. Now I just have to wait for the adhesive to set up.

I did learn that the easiest way to remove the glove box is through the gauge cluster opening.

Edited by lynchster - 15-April-2017 at 8:59AM
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-April-2017 at 5:29PM
I found there was no longer a seal (if there ever was one) between the defroster duct and the main plenum. If you really want a challenge try it with the dash still in the car. I had to run an additional and thinner two inch section on the right side because a bit of warping. Almost as much fun as epoxying the cracks in the dash.

Both projects have one thing in common, they're both done. Time to get back to making progress the clock is running on spring.






Edited by lynchster - 15-April-2017 at 5:31PM
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-April-2017 at 3:27AM
IIRC there should be a maybe 3/4" thick foam ring there?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-April-2017 at 2:04PM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:


IIRC there should be a maybe 3/4" thick foam ring there?


There was a bit of a gap there when I had the nuts off of the main plenum on the firewall side. It's been that way since I painted the fire wall. I noticed it while I was vacuuming and wiping down inside the dash.
There's a ridge around the base of the defroster duct that looked like there might have been a seal there at one time.
A real PITA to get that rubber foam weather stripping in there but it's sealed up good now.
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2017 at 10:38AM
Been making some headway as of late. The steering column is back in and the gauge cluster is cleaned up. I got the power booster painted and ready to go. The front brakes are the only hold up to putting in the driveshaft.
Question. Do you have to pull out the main housing to replace the heater core or can it be split in the car?
As luck would have it volume 3 is at home.

Edited by lynchster - 21-April-2017 at 10:40AM
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2017 at 3:07PM
in the above pic it looks like you have a non-a/c box? if so yes the core goes in from the back of the box, but box drops out fairly well Wink
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2017 at 1:41PM
The engine compartment is starting to get a bit crowded but the booster came out decent.





I decided to soak the proportioning valve so I wound up using a combination of old fittings with crimped lines and clay to keep the evaporust out of the switch and the one port.




I'm fairly sure the book would call to remove the clutch rod. I really hate this nut right here.

Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2017 at 4:51PM
Took another 4 day weekend to put time in and finally get the brakes squared away. The drain in the kitchen sink had other plans............
I did manage to split time today and got the proportioning valve installed and the master cylinder is painted. I know brake fluid can kill the paint but I'm hoping the catalyzed clearcoat will at least buy me time to wipe off any brake fluid before wiping it out.
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-April-2017 at 7:09PM
So close. I still have the right front to do but I'm afraid the yard requires some attention tomorrow.



I decided to clean up the old rotors, repack the bearings, and put the old pads back on since I'm just looking to get it under it's own power for now.



Edited by lynchster - 29-April-2017 at 7:12PM
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-April-2017 at 8:45PM
shiny! i have to put my sunglasses on
 looking good!!
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-May-2017 at 5:26PM
I got the right side done today so the brake are just about squared away. Still have to pick up the front hoses though. It should make for a good Saturday project.
Started out painting the ends of the driveshaft but knocked it from where it was sitting. That's what tomorrow is for. I was only painting the ends so I could put the u joints and yoke on to get the thing balanced.
I figured for $55 it was worth doing now instead of chasing a potential vibration down later.

Edited by lynchster - 04-May-2017 at 5:28PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-May-2017 at 12:51PM
Didn't take much counter weight to balance the driveshaft. But I didn't get to paint it this weekend.



They keep trying to give me the wrong tail shaft seal for the top loader.



After chasing down a few minor fitting leaks it does finally have brakes again!
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-May-2017 at 4:08PM
I did find a part number for one in Andy's build thread (thanks Andy). It may not be the same but seems to be doing the trick for his car.



Edited by lynchster - 14-May-2017 at 4:09PM
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M Casey Stock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-May-2017 at 2:21AM
Originally posted by lynchster lynchster wrote:

Didn't take much counter weight to balance the driveshaft. But I didn't get to paint it this weekend.


 


Do you have somewhere local that balances drive shafts or do you have a method that allows you to do it yourself?

1975 Gran Torino, Copperhead

http://forum.grantorinosport.org/75-gran-torino-soft-restoration-copper-head_topic15137_post169060.html?KW=#169060
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-May-2017 at 9:25AM
Originally posted by M Casey Stock M Casey Stock wrote:

Do you have somewhere local that balances drive shafts or do you have a method that allows you to do it yourself?


I found a place about 20 minutes from here. Apparently they are quite busy, they were at it on Saturday when I picked mine up. Had a few nice twisted ones from semi's standing by the counter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-May-2017 at 4:17PM
More frustration than anything else lately and mostly of my own design.
Right now the car is up on jack stands. The brakes are done. I've ordered and received new rubber strut rod bushings, tail shaft seal, and a new speedometer cable.
While doing the brakes I came to realize that I put the rear upper control arms in backwards. It had been years since I took it apart and having them bend away from the frame looked like it made sense at the time. It doesn't make as much sense when you're bleeding the brakes and looking at how close the spring is to the control arm. Not a big deal but wait! There's more.   
I decided that with limited time today I'd throw in the strut rod on the right front. I sorted out the best way to install it and it was a piece of cake. I went to look up the torque specs in the manual and there it was. Yet another oversight due to the extended time span. I forgot to put the lower suspension snubber in before drawing in those splined bolts.
One step forward, two steps back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-May-2017 at 3:49PM
The front strut rods are on and that finishes the front suspension.

I got the rear upper control arms sorted out thanks to aquartlow. I can see why I put them in the way I did, they went on easier. Putting them on the correct way was a fight because I had to pull out on the lower ends to get them to fit. Might have had something to do with the fact it had the competition arms on it originally or they are just a PITA!

I also installed the tail shaft seal and got the driveshaft painted but it's still hanging from the rafters.

I bought a new speedometer cable from Autokrafters but I've noticed it has no seal installed for the firewall. I'm not sure how I'm going to work that one out yet.

Edited by lynchster - 29-May-2017 at 3:50PM
Chuck
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