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"Major Redmond" / lynchster

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lynchster View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-March-2012 at 3:26PM
I dragged the primered rear axle housing out from under the motorcycle stand this past weekend and prepped the upper control arms. With my work schedule I think I'm gonna have to hire a friend of mine to paint the parts for me so I can stay on schedule.
I still have a lot of work to go if I want to hear it run this summer.   
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-March-2012 at 6:00PM
Picked up the rear tonight after dinner. If all goes well I can start putting it in this weekend despite not having the backing plates or axles ready. I got bitten by the bike bug again so I may head out to a "tent sale" this weekend and check out a used Harley or two for sh*ts and grins. 

Edited by lynchster - 27-March-2012 at 6:00PM
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-April-2012 at 5:15PM
 
Looks better with the painted one in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stanman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2012 at 12:39AM
Ummmmm....do you have your car supported on concrete blocks?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2012 at 8:30AM
Originally posted by stanman stanman wrote:

Ummmmm....do you have your car supported on concrete blocks?
 
Jack stands, the rear is just hanging there. The blocks are for psychological support. I tend to lean overly cautious involving saftey. Particularly when it involves crushing injuries.
 
On the other hand when I had the body off the frame I did built pylons using those blocks and ratchet straps to hold them together. Pics are further back in the thread. On top of those I used two 8X8's to set the body on. That was stable for four years while I patched the floor, sandblasted it, and painted it. I think having the frame attached would be too much weight for that configuration. 


Edited by lynchster - 07-April-2012 at 8:31AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stanman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2012 at 9:14AM
If you insist on using them you should flip them 90 degrees so the holes are top and bottom and put a piece of 2 X 8 lumber on top to spread out the force if the car did happen to fall on them. I know from construction experience (complaining, not bragging Wink) that a sharp blow from a hammer can shatter them, so a car falling on them would have a similar outcome. I know a lot of people use them without a problem but I'd hate to see one of our members, or anyone for that matter, get injured or worse because of them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2012 at 12:59PM

With the body back on the frame I'm past that now. When I did have it set up I was aware of the vulnerabilities. Aside from not being able to flip them on there sides (the were faced) it was as secure as a paranoid individual was going to make it. I figured so long as we didn't smack them with hammers or hit them with floor jacks it was golden. Don't get me wrong, I do appreciate your concern. 

Setting the body back on the frame is another story. For me that got hairy at times.


Edited by lynchster - 07-April-2012 at 1:01PM
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2012 at 2:47PM
Nice work!   
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2012 at 4:39PM
Finally got the center section painted and ready to go in. If the copper washers don't come in by the weekend I guess I'll use some of the stainless ones and swap them out later.


Edited by lynchster - 06-May-2012 at 4:39PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2012 at 11:26PM
Regards to the stainless washer vs copper crush washers....dont even bother.   It will leak from my own past experience.   Im currently using copper washers and it still leaks a tiny bit.   Use the correct copper "crush" washers as it does make a difference.   You can get them from many places...like Randy's Ring and Pinion, etc.
 
I appreciate all that work you've done on the underside and frame.   I've been trying to do partial clean/paint while I drive it and slowly coming to the same conclusion that I need to lift the body off to clean/paint the underside and chassis properly.  
 
How did you get the body off?   Do you have a lift like what Ron did with his?
 
I stripped the wheel wells and inside the rear quarters (under) prepped, cleaned with PRE, and used Etching primer like you.   So far its working nicely.
 
Also, I noticed you used chevelle body mounts instead of the other option already posted on this forum.  
 
Was there a reason you chose teh Chevelle mount over the other?
 
I'm trying to learn from others so I dont repeat possible mistakes.
 
Nice work....keep the pics coming.
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-May-2012 at 11:37AM

I went with the Chevelle mounts because it was the info I had at that time that I ordered them and it turns out they worked just fine. I decided to go with rubber mounts to absorb some of the harshness of the stiffer springs, the poly graphite bushings, and shorter profile tires. I still have to work out the radiator support bushing assemblies. I kept my original ones so I have something compare to.

No I did not have a lift like Ron did. It would have been much (very much) easier. Instead I used floor jacks, and engine hoist, 8X8 lumber and cinder blocks left over from a tunnel that I ratchet strapped together to form pylons. No the safest route but I made it work all the same.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-May-2012 at 11:53PM
What springs rates did you settle on ? 
 
I'm working through the springs/suspension stuff now.   Any feedback or past experience info of what worked and why would be very helpful.
 
Im thinking of lowering 1.5" and using 225lb/in rear (custom order from Coil Spring specialties) and the CVPI 710lb/in front springs with a 1 3/8 splined front sway bar and the Adcco 7/8" rear bar.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-June-2012 at 2:43PM
Originally posted by BackInBlack BackInBlack wrote:

What springs rates did you settle on ? 
 
I'm working through the springs/suspension stuff now.   Any feedback or past experience info of what worked and why would be very helpful.
 
Im thinking of lowering 1.5" and using 225lb/in rear (custom order from Coil Spring specialties) and the CVPI 710lb/in front springs with a 1 3/8 splined front sway bar and the Adcco 7/8" rear bar.
I haven't been around much the last couple of months sorry about that.
 
I haven't made the determination to run the Vic springs. I ordered a set of 450lb springs for the front and I'll make that determination after I get to drive it for a while. The rear are 188lb springs that have a 1 1/2" lift for rake. The front bar is stock 1 1/8" and the rear might be 5/8", but I'm looking to tighten that one up a bit.
If the front spring compressor becomes a pain in the ass, hook it toward the the bottom of the spring and run the rod up through the upper shock mount hole. Use a thick washer and tighten it from there. Remove the lower control arm and unwind the compressor. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-June-2012 at 2:51PM
In my absence I did manage some progress.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-June-2012 at 5:36PM
any chance of it being done for Carlisle 2013 next year?
would be sweet to see it there
hoping to have mine done enough to bring it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-July-2012 at 3:29PM
I finally got the rear put together. After snapping an axle a few years back I decided against using the factory sheet metal axle retainers and went with these chucks of steel from Currie's. That sleeve is just setting on the axle. Took me a bit of research to realize I don't need them.
 
 
It only took CJ's 2 months to get my back ordered copper washers. The day I was going to put it together without them they showed up in my mailbox. The new brake lines look great but they both needed quite a bit of tweeking at the wheel cylinders.
 
 
"Guests"?  
 


Edited by lynchster - 16-July-2012 at 3:32PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-September-2012 at 7:53PM
I finally got my driveshaft and trans crossmember back and in primer today. If I can get the engine and transmisson squared away I should still hear it this year.
On the negative side I'm not to happy with the rear springs I got from Eaton. When we backed the car out of the garage I noticed the right side sets about an inch higher than the left. That initiated a lot of measuring once we got it back in. 
I did check the tires for height and had to let air out of the right front because it had 1/4" better tread on it then the left front. No improvement. My brother in law put a nasty thought in my head that maybe it was due to replacing the quarter panelsShocked. No such thing. I measured from the factory top contour line to wheel opening and then from that line to the floor. I'm going to try and swap the springs side to side just because I can, but I think in the end I'm going to have to have them send out another set.       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-September-2012 at 12:45AM
Its really looking nice.   My project has slowed down.   I'm hoping that I can get started on cleaning it up and painting next year.    Hope to see you at Carlisle 2013...I plan to attend no matter the shape.  I hope to have the bumper and hood scoop done by then...
-John   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SininenIII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-September-2012 at 3:18AM
Originally posted by lynchster lynchster wrote:

When we backed the car out of the garage I noticed the right side sets about an inch higher than the left.       
You can  swap them from side to side to see if it helps, but it could be the springs just need to settle longer. Similar thing happened to me with reconditioned rear springs, after backing the car out of the garage, one side sat noticeably higher.  I drove around 15 miles and they settled up evenly. 
Beautiful work with the car!!


Edited by SininenIII - 03-September-2012 at 3:19AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-September-2012 at 4:27AM
Thanks guys.
 
John  I'm not to sure if the car will make it but I'm planning on going anyway. It's only a half hour drive (without the traffic).
 
Sininenlll  I'm going to try the spring swap. I also have nothing but the body (and two windows) on the frame. I'm sure the missing weight would settle the car just a bit too. Worse case scenerio new springs.   
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