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"Major Redmond" / lynchster

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lynchster View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2016 at 1:12PM
Spent the day fitting the right front brake line and cleaning the brake booster. Now I have it soaking to get the rust in the pits and seams. I was blowing out some left over iron ferrite media from my blasting days because I wasn't liking the crunchy sound. I had the vacuum cleaner sitting on the vacuum port while at the bottom and forced air in where the master cylinder sits. It actually actuated the diaphragm at times so I might be good using it.




This stuff is awesome. It will clean the rust with cleaning the parts but it last longer if you clean them.



Edited by lynchster - 30-October-2016 at 1:21PM
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gnrlee01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2016 at 1:55PM
does that work on body metal?
74 gts 460/auto with factory sunroof
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2016 at 3:33PM
i've never used it but i've heard it's good. i think it's made for soaking mainly?
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2016 at 4:47PM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

i've never used it but i've heard it's good. i think it's made for soaking mainly?

Yes, and it's awesome at it. I've been soaking and re using factory nuts bolts where I'm not using stainless ones. Also using it for brackets and such.
Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2016 at 4:49PM
Originally posted by gnrlee01 gnrlee01 wrote:

does that work on body metal?

They say if you keep it wet but my attempt at it failed. I was using a soaked towel on the bed floor of my truck. To be fair it wasn't new it had been reused several times before and may have been used up too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-November-2016 at 4:30PM
I started laying on the epoxy primer today. I started out with a few extra coats to help take care of the pitting. Tomorrow I'll do the backside while I'm listening to the game.


I'm wondering what a "normal" door gap is for these. I was going for close because of the decklid gap but I'm beginning to reconsider.



It's looks nice but I can't quite get the paint stick to fit in the gap. 






Edited by lynchster - 05-November-2016 at 4:33PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-November-2016 at 5:37PM
I wasn't planning on doing any sanding of the quarter just yet but the right quarter to door gap is really testing me.
More pressing has been the door gap at the contour. It was a bit tight there and stuck out past the door where above and below fit relatively well. Only one way to fix that................Hammer time!
Of course that cracked some filler right at the edge as it bowed the sheet metal. I had to slam a wedge in the door gap to work that one out. I forgot how much high build primer is on these quarters.LOL Since I had the epoxy already in the gun I covered up where I blocking until I get back to that part of the program. I see a lot of hand blocking in my future.
This side I can actually fit the paint stick in but so fat the other side lines up better with quarter.



Edited by lynchster - 05-November-2016 at 5:39PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-November-2016 at 6:38PM
i think the factory fitment on these was piss poor at best. i had issues with mine too! your gaps look decent in the pics! mine was a difference in the door profile in regards to the quarter, then later the same at the fender profile in regards to the door shape.
 once you get the doors gaped forward and back to the quarter panel, then get the fenders gaped to the front of the doors, then you'll need to set the gaps from the fenders to the hood! once the width of the fenders is right for the hood, you may need to adjust the doors in or out (at the hinges) to realign the profile with the fenders. then some minor adjustment of the door strikers may be enough for the back of the doors to follow the profile of the quarters. or in my case the quarters were in from the door by almost 1/8"!! so i used a portapower to jack out the tops of the quarters to match the doors ( the profile was only off from the keyhole up to the window Confused)
 and later if you have an issue with the rear of the hood sitting to high from the fenders when it's fully closed i can explain how i finally figured that out...it drove me nuts for days!!!!
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2016 at 7:01AM
Thanks for the input cj I do appreciate it. I consider myself to be a decent but not great bodyman. The great ones dont do collision work, it doesnt pay well enough and its boring. I got to boring.
I had time to look over the car after a break and the gaps side to side are close but the right is still a bit wider. A light 1/8" on the left to 3/16" on the right.

I did take some time to mess around with a quarter window today and got it in after fighting with it between coats. Turns out I kept trying to install it wrong. Now I have to decide whether or not to replace both of the quarter windows because of the weather strips.Cry


Edited by lynchster - 06-November-2016 at 12:12PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2016 at 1:06PM
What a pain in the arse that was............... I had a feeling 10 years was going to cause a headache or two.



Now what to do with these weatherstrips.






Edited by lynchster - 06-November-2016 at 1:07PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2016 at 1:27PM
i repaired mine with RTV, better than busted crap
pretty sure the repair is still holding up sitting on the shelf long after the car is gone
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-November-2016 at 5:19PM
Time to switch to some non temperature sensitive projects. I figure finishing the brakes can work. I've got everything together and sorted out except the proportioning valve. I think I'll have to find a rebuilding kit and acquire an education there. I did start getting the backing plates ready for powdercoating. This Evaporust makes for easy work. The black is just residual paint it will loosen quite a bit of it but it's not designed to remove paint..  


   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NorthElite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-November-2016 at 7:59PM
Originally posted by lynchster lynchster wrote:

This Evaporust makes for easy work.



Need test this one. Evaporust is also available here in local car part shop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-November-2016 at 11:28AM
Project has been slowed by the temps and the holiday but progress is still being made. My one brother was in town so I fired it for him and we noticed a small coolant leak at the bottom of the water pump. I may just go in tomorrow and re torque everything after warming up the engine.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-February-2017 at 11:46AM
61 degrees out today! I had to work on the truck but got to spend some quality time working on the right door alignment for the big red mistress. Think I might fire it again tomorrow just to hear it.


Edited by lynchster - 18-February-2017 at 11:47AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2017 at 1:03PM
Since this is easier before installing the brakes I decided it's time to pull the steering column because this is not a good look.

   

Of course removing the gauges can lead to all kinds of interesting if not disappointing discoveries.

Both of these are labeled "PARK" but that doesn't look like it's supposed to be there. It wasn't even connected to anything. Just two lonely yellow wires. Hanging there.

   

The top one is listed as "LT GRN RED" The bottom as "WHT"
Interesting because I found this lead attached to the main connector harness. It didn't have a bulb in it and it was just hanging there. It does have a LT GRN RED and a BLK wire. hmmmmmmm

   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2017 at 1:05PM
Are these the two wires that need a jumper in the event the tach goes out? Assuming I don't get it updated.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2017 at 2:21PM
yes, i used an inline flat fuse holder, if it quits i just stick in a 30 amp fuse Wink it's hanging just above the bottom of the dash (accessible but out of sight.)
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-March-2017 at 1:38PM

I plan to use the existing wiring pig tail that goes into the tach as a jumper.

 
That loose wire with the socket looks like the one that supposed to go in the top hole.  It should be part of the main dash harness.  My car has the lower hole empty and that's the way it was from the factory.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-March-2017 at 1:58PM
I finally got the column out and got a day of decent weather none the less. I brought the lower steering column home and have it soaking in Evaporust so I can get that painted during the week.





While I was at it I pulled the lower bearing retainer to paint it (I know but I'll know it's there). Turns out that was a great idea. From all of the blasting that lower bearing had a boatload of iron ferrite blasting media in it. I flushed it out and repacked it, she feels like a new one.




Edited by lynchster - 19-March-2017 at 1:59PM
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