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More Efficiency and Power for 400ci V8?

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72FordGTS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-August-2016 at 12:52PM
Chris, I think you should change the chain for peace of mind to ensure you don't have the nylon teeth and to get rid of the retarded timing set.  I replaced my stock timing set with a Cloyes double roller set and noticed no difference in sound either.  I replaced mine as a preventative measure as I was worried about the nylon teeth coming apart.  Surprisingly when I did the job, the nylon teeth were in excellent shape.  That said, the chain had pretty good slop in it. You can check the timing chain slack by turning the crank each direction and watching the distributor rotor to give you an idea of how much slack is in the chain.  If you go to youtube I am sure you can find a video that would show the process. 
 
The job isn't too bad to do but a little above basic skill set.  If you think it's too hard, it might be worth paying a mechanic, like I said to be sure you don't have that nylon timing set.  You don't have to remove the rad, but everything else Johnny said is spot on.  I didn't want to touch the oil pan on mine.  You can take the front cover off the engine without loosening the oil pan, but to get it back on you need to trim the cover.  Rockatansky was the one who showed me the method, but I included a pic below so you can see what I am talking about. 
 
Here's a thread that Rockatansky talks about the method:
 
 
Here is where you have to trim the cover:
 
 
 


Edited by 72FordGTS - 21-August-2016 at 12:53PM
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Torino_Chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-August-2016 at 11:07PM
Well I might as well have the workshop do it since the car is there at the moment anyway. Question is how they would solve this oil pan problem... And when all these things are apart it would probably be smart to renew the water and fuel pumps as well at which point it gets more and more expensive...Confused
Oh well...decisions, decisions.

And just to be sure, we're talking about such a set, rigth? -> http://www.edelbrockproducts.eu/en/edelbrock-7821-edelbrock-timing-chain-and-gear-set.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote n2fordwagons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-August-2016 at 12:27AM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

plastic belongs in your wallet, not your engine Wink
 
Ha ha.  Or, in my case, my wife's wallet.  Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-August-2016 at 3:08AM
that would be it chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gnrlee01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-August-2016 at 1:40PM
i got the info from the kit that i have that includes a high volume melling oil pump, a double roller timing set, everything needed for converting over to a complete roller rocker/roller cam set up and new valve springs along with 2 sets of pushrods

the kit number is "comp cams k32-421-8"
the actual cam box says 32-421-8 cam specs are int 270 exh 270 dur @ 0.50: 215 215 lobe sep 110.0 valve lift 0.566 0.566
sn# wl3719-15

as the other guys have mentioned, it is DEFINITELY worth replacing the timing set at the very least...the same thing happened to my first torino, causing my oil pressure to drop and stay low, than as a grand finally took out 2 of my main bearings at the same moment...talk about a screaming banshee, the sound pitch it was making before i shut it off was absolutely deafening.  CryCry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-August-2016 at 2:31PM
that would be about a good cam to use Big smile but on another note, as i've been thinking about this all day today... if the CR is down to about under 8:1 or less as i think was mentioned earlier, that would be about right for an underdriven blower, or turbo! Big smile Thumbs Up  (many issues solved Wink)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-August-2016 at 2:31PM
Originally posted by Torino_Chris Torino_Chris wrote:

Well I might as well have the workshop do it since the car is there at the moment anyway. Question is how they would solve this oil pan problem... And when all these things are apart it would probably be smart to renew the water and fuel pumps as well at which point it gets more and more expensive...Confused
Oh well...decisions, decisions.

And just to be sure, we're talking about such a set, rigth? -> http://www.edelbrockproducts.eu/en/edelbrock-7821-edelbrock-timing-chain-and-gear-set.html
 
If the shop does the work, they may want to drop the oil pan to do the job, or at least loosen it.  I take it they have experience working on American V8 engines?  That link I posted is where Rockatansky outlines what has to be done to do the job without touching the oil pan.  I followed his instructions and it worked out fine.  They would have to trim the front cover, just like in the photo I posted.  My worry about loosening the pan was that the original oil pan gasket would fall apart once it was disturbed then I be into replacing the oil pan gasket too.
 
As for the water pump and fuel pump, there is no need to replace them if they are in working order.  The water pump can be inspected to see if it's worth changing or not.  Both parts are pretty cheap, especially if you go with stock replacement parts.  Both are relatively easy to replace later too if you don't change them now.  It's not like a timing belt that drives the water pump on some modern engines, where it makes sense to replace the waterpump while changing the belt (my wife's old Honda was like that).
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrSmog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-August-2016 at 3:25PM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

that would be about a good cam to use Big smile but on another note, as i've been thinking about this all day today... if the CR is down to about under 8:1 or less as i think was mentioned earlier, that would be about right for an underdriven blower, or turbo! Big smile Thumbs Up  (many issues solved Wink)


nitrous, smog motors LOVE the juice. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Torino_Chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-August-2016 at 9:19PM
Okay, it's settled then. Let's get some 700+ horses out of this thing, MrSmog and John Tongue

But seriously, I think I've decided to do a complete "engine front job" once I have enough money again. I'll need a new radiator at some point, too.
So I think it makes sense if I just do all these things in one big service:
  • New radiator
  • Clutch fan conversion
  • check water pump, new thermostat
  • new fuel pump?
  • check/renew alternator?
  • check/renew balancer
  • new oil pan gasket

Does that make sense? I'm still thinking about a new carb+intake, but that's independent from all that. Apart from the costs LOL

Then, if I ever have the money, time and space, I could install new heads and cam when I pull the enginge out for a refurb. But that's far far away for now.

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