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My 72 Ranchero GT driver/project

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russosborne View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10-May-2015 at 10:21PM
I posted in the welcome section, so I am just going to start from where I left off there to avoid repeating myself for the most part.

Currently working on installing aftermarket gauges. Went with Equus for the price since I have to have electric, I hate mechanical. Gas, Voltage, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, and Vacuum. Really didn't want a clock and out of the gauges available the vacuum seemed the most useable. Also changing speedometer and tach. 2&1/16ths for the smaller ones except for the gas, which was 2. 3&3/8ths for the speedo and tach.

I had previously installed some mechanical gauges, so I only have about half the work to do. Although I knew those were temporary, so I didn't do a great job with them. Embarrassed

I've got more to go after the gauges, but only doing one thing at a time to limit problems. Lincoln MKVIII radiator. 3G alternator. Adding a power outlet and mp3 player cable to the aftermarket console I am stuck using. Hey, it was like $30 at Walmart. LOL License plate bracket with 3rd brake light. Debating whether to install what I have of the new AC stuff, I have the compressor and a couple little things, need hoses and condensor, but that won't be this summer. Hey, this is just Phoenix AZ, what's 120 degrees?
Need to get my spare replaced and make a bed mount for it.
LED tail lights and rear turn signals, plus the inline resistors for them which I finally got 2 pair, one for tail and one for turn signals.
And some other little stuff I am sure I am forgetting right now.

Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rough_72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-May-2015 at 7:03PM
That my good sir is a good looking ranch! My wife is going to hate me if I find a 72 ranch to go along with the rust bucket 72 hahaha. Keep up the good fight. I personally would not put your ac stuff on tell you have it all. It will get contaminated and be of no use. Justy two cents.

Edited by rough_72 - 11-May-2015 at 7:05PM
AJ McKenna
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-May-2015 at 10:08AM
I need to get some dash pictures up here. Thought I already had some.
Anyway, I connected the dash stuff yesterday. Not in the dash, but laying on the passenger seat. I think I made the harnesses a tad too long.

Gas, water, and voltmeter are working fine.Big smile

Vacuum gauge not yet connected, since it has the plastic line I am waiting until last for it. Be hard to wire it up wrong since there are no wires. LOL

Oil pressure is not working. I didn't think it would since I was trying to avoid changing the sending unit since they are in a hard for me to get to place on the 351C. But I guess I will have to since the factory sender won't work with the aftermarket gauge. Unhappy

The tach wouldn't work with it wired to the negative of the coil. It is working using an inductive pickup on one of the spark plug wires. Maybe the stock coil won't work with the tach? Tach instructions said not all will. A P.O. has also made a hash of the coil/distributor wiring including adding a ballast resistor. So I am just going to wait til I get the Pertronix stuff (Ignitor I and Flamethrower I coil) and retry. That should be in the next week anyway.

Haven't gotten to try the speedometer yet. I really need to change the cable but don't have the energy to crawl around under the car. Should have done this either this past winter or waited, too darn hot out now. Hoping (probably a waste) that the old one will slip on the new meter and work for now. The new meter is supposed to have a threaded one. Have to try and see what happens.

Thanks,
Russ
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 8:08PM
Got some stuff done today. Although nothing really picture worthy, other than one relay everything is pretty much out of sight.

Whoever did the coil wiring previously was not a Ford person for sure, and maybe not even a car person.
Points were connected to the positive terminal of the coil. Had a ballast resistor in line also. I'm not even sure how the car was running with this stuff done that way. I could tell when I bought the car that the wiring had been tinkered with, but it ran so I didn't really pay much attention to it.

Got the Pertronix ignition installed. ;D I wasn't going to do that today, but to clean up the wiring I pretty much HAD to. :(
At first it wouldn't start. I had stupidly just moved all the wires and reconnected them the same way I took them off. Bad me. :-[ Once I got my brain working(after a few minutes of pure panic)and realized what was going on and wired everything correctly it fired right up.  8)
And the tach works now! And my kill switch still kills. :D
I eliminated all the hacked stuff and ran a new wire to the starter relay ignition post from the ignition switch wiring just after it comes out the firewall. ( I think someone had put the ballast resistor there at first. The wire was cut and had terminal connectors on it that someone then connected with a wire.) Then I used a relay to power the coil. Coil has 1.5 ohms of resistance, so if I should ever need to put the points back in everything will work the way I have it set up. But I don't ever want to see points again. I have never in my lifetime had good luck setting points on a Ford vehicle, and I've had plenty to try it on.
Oh, speaking of hacked, they have the underhood light connected to the starter post on the starter relay.  :(   I have NO clue what that is all about. ??? Something I need to look at tomorrow. Who would connect something to a source that is only powered when the starter is engaged? ::)

I still need to shorten the wires from the Pertronix module to the coil. They really give you a lot of wire for odd coil placements.


Trying to decide what is next. I need to get the vacuum gauge connected, then I can put the panel back in the dash and maybe drive it again???
I am still dreading the oil pressure sending unit swap. But I can't put it off too much longer. Then it is either the 3G alt swap, or the Lincoln MK VIII electric radiator fan install. I should do the alt first, but I might do the fan first. There is less to mess up on the rad fan install.

I need to change the speedometer cable, but I just don't want to crawl under the car right now. Maybe it is I am afraid of what else I might find. :-[ Or I am just being lazy.  :o

Then there are a lot of little things I still need to do electrically.
Put the led bulbs back in the taillights and add the load resistors so the flashers work properly this time.
Add a license plate frame I bought that has a third brake light on it.
Connect the amplified antenna I mounted last week and see which is better for reception around here.
Add the hi beam headlight connectors I bought. These are from the same company that I bought the low beam ones from on Ebay. Ceramic, seem to be really well constructed. And fix whatever is causing the hi beam indicator to come on with the low beams instead of the hi beams.
Oh, got to get the windshield wiper motor installed. I have the bolts (hopefully, off of another 72) to do it. Then see if everything works wiper wise.
I want to add a relay to the horn circuit, I think I mentioned way earlier that I am using a pair of horns from a late 80's Mustang. Ranchero horns were bad. And they didn't have horn relays on those years for some reason. I found that out while looking for a bad relay.
I hope that is all for the electrical, at least for now.

I want to make a spare tire mount for the bed. Saw a 65 Ranchero at a show here that someone took a mount from a Jeep (or at least that is what the owner believes, a friend did the work for him). I figure I have enough steel angle to just make one instead of finding a Jeep one and modifying it, especially since I am back to a zero budget for now. Plus I can then try my welding out on it after I bolt it together. It will be angled, not flat. Hoping to have it about even with the bottom of the rear window and then angled down. Looked good on the 65 anyway. And I can try out my new welding table. Nothing great, it is pretty small. Got it at Harbor Freight Tuesday. On sale for $79 or something. Be good for me to use so I can start welding. Haven't done anything since I took that 2 evening class. Didn't really want to weld on the concrete floor. Can't bend over long enough to do that even if I was crazy enough to try that.

I need to recover the dash pad. However (here is more proof of my black cloud), at some point someone put one of those vinyl caps on it. It is cracked, and they are glued on. I may not be able to save this one. I have the material to re=cover it, but not foam, and I don't really want to try to redo it from the metal core. I suppose I can always fill in the crack with black RTV or something for now. I hadn't realized that this had the cap already on it until I took the pad off to start all this gauge stuff. I thought I just had a typical AZ sun hardened dash pad.

Clean up, polish, and install my old school Mickey Thompson aluminum valve covers. Just not sure I can keep them looking good. Tempted to paint them Ford blue and see if anyone notices them. But I do like shiny.

Convert my single snorkel air cleaner to a dual. I have a second snorkel I bought just for this. Just need to see where to put it so it clears the ac compressor whenever I get that on. Problem is the snorkels won't be symmetrical and I like symmetry. (boy, that spelling looks wrong)

Speaking of ac, I'd love to get mine going, but I don't have the money for the rest of the stuff I need, so this summer will be a nice hot one in the Ranchero. Thirty years ago in my GTO having no ac wasn't a big deal. Today however it is.

I am thinking I'd like to go with a 4bbl carb. However this being a 351C 2V engine I can't just go find a factory 4bbl intake, since there aren't any. I'd have to change to 4V heads to use a factory intake. Wouldn't mind doing that if I had lots of money to spend, but I don't. And there are a limited number of choices for the 2V engine even aftermarket. So odds are it is staying a 2bbl for quite some time. Not sure why I even want a 4bbl, I guess it is just who I am.

Well, since I am starting to go off into dreamland as far as what I can do I should probably stop for now.  :-[

Thanks,
Russ
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-May-2015 at 11:21AM
I got the Lincoln fan mounted but haven't gotten the electrical stuff done for it yet.
Mine barely clears the water pump pulley. Maybe an inch, but I think it is less.
Russ





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rough_72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-May-2015 at 11:32AM
Looks good to me
AJ McKenna
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-May-2015 at 8:27PM
Well, tomorrow took a few days to get here, but I got some stuff done tonight.
I decided to brave the outside for a while.
Shortened up a couple of the wires, the rest are probably going to have to stay too long at least for the time being.
Put the dash where it belongs temporarily. Would like to not have to remove it again, but the light is out on the oil pressure gauge. It is being flaky, works once in a while. And of course I still need to change the sending unit to the correct one for this gauge.

Also the parking brake light is staying on. It's done that the whole time since I redid all this stuff. Although it may be that the brake is just slightly engaged. I still haven't installed the release cable I bought a while back. Something else to put on the to-do list.

And I realised a big oops the other day. I have ran all of the new wires that needed to go to the engine compartment thru the firewall using the grommet that is for the speedometer cable. Wouldn't be a huge deal except I am going to have to replace that cable at some point. So sooner or later I will need to re-do those wires and find or drill a different hole.

Now I have to finish getting the electric radiator fan installed and I will likely have to do the 3G alt swap before I can really drive the car again.

Would I do this again? Not on a car that had working gauges already for sure. Mine weren't all working this time. But overall I don't think it was worth the effort. With the dash panel installed, I can see a couple of gauges aren't "right". And all the wiring that was involved and still needs work to be what I want it to be, but odds are it is staying the way it is. On the plus side I can actually see the gauge faces at night now. Still need to get the oil pressure working and connect the vacuum gauge. The vacuum should be simple. Although I am going to complicate it by using copper oil pressure line for most of the run. Not the biggest fan of that plastic line when it comes to being around a hot engine.

Thanks,
Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-May-2015 at 5:27AM
JUST A NOTE, CROWN VIC ELECTRIC FAN FITS PERFECT INTO THE OPENING ON THE ORIGINAL SHROUD FOR 72-76 TORINOS.
Looking good!
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-June-2015 at 6:45PM
Thanks.
I guess I have been slipping a bit keeping up here. I did post in the general discussion section, but I haven't mentioned here that I found a  Crown Vic 8.8 rear with disk brakes for $100. Once in a while even I get lucky.
Got it home tonight. Still in the back of the Subaru though. I have to come up with a chain for my engine hoist to get it out. I am way past the point where I used to be able to handle a rear end on my own. If it was a drum brake rear I could get it out, but I am not going to rest it with any weight on the disks or drag it on them.
Plan is to take all the brake hardware off for the swap onto my 9 inch rear, and then re-sell the rest. Ought to be worth something to somebody. I still have to get the spacer kit for this http://www.ebay.com/itm/371302142465?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true (also have to verify the measurements on my rear, my luck someone has swapped a newer large bearing rear in the car), and then save up for the machine shop work, so it won't be anything I get to do soon.

Other than this I have been taking care of some other stuff. Hope to get back to getting the Ranchero drivable by the end of this weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-June-2015 at 7:48PM
russ, no chain... do you have a nylon ratchet strap? you can loop them around a couple of times to make a heavier "sling"
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-June-2015 at 8:30PM
Thanks.
No ratchet straps, I think. I still am not sure on some stuff whether I still have it or got rid of it when I moved back to Phoenix a year ago. I do know that the ones  I had were not much more than an inch wide anyway.

I did buy a 2ton rated tow strap at HF tonight. figure it will be good enough for this at least.

And I did get the 8.8 rear into the bed of the Ranchero. Manually. Backed them together and had just enough strength to lift/drag it from the Subaru to the Ranchero. So for now I can honestly say my Ranchero has both a 9inch and an 8.8inch rear. LOL Good thing that the level of the tail gate of the Ranchero and the floor of the cargo area on the Subaru was pretty close, only a couple of inches difference.

Will have to get the engine hoist "fired up" here soon. Haven't tried it at all, bought it used. Hoping it works.

Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-June-2015 at 9:53PM
Should be fine with a 2.2t strap, I used a 2t strap to lift the 440 and 727 combo.


Loop it round the sump at the back and front and make sure you don't clip the dizzy like I did Angry
Barnaby

429 powered 73 Stripper.....no comfort, just noise!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-June-2015 at 2:48AM
I understand the weight of those. I moved the 1 ton rear end out of my van last weekend by myself. It was brutal, and it felt like I was dragging the Titanic along the ocean floor. I can manhandle an 8.8 or 9 inch from the ground up into my truck, but I feel it the next day.

I found a lost 2 inch strap off an 18 wheeler about 4 years ago along the interstate. Picked it up not knowing what I'd use it for, but I could not pass it by. Had a hook on one end. Believe it or not, I have found it is the best way to lift a heavy engine/transmission combo. It's length allows me to loop it all around where I want for balance and avoid damage to components, and it won't chew up or scratch aluminum or painted parts either. Looks like hell, pretty dirty, but is as strong as an ox, lighter than chain, won't rust, and I don't bother with having to find bolts to run through the chains. Best free tool ever.
Joe
1972 GTSquire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino (2)       
1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-June-2015 at 9:07PM
Well, 8.8 rear is still in the bed. However it is missing the disk brakes.
Trying to sell it locally on craigslist, but no interest in it at all. Guess it will be scrapped soon, so might as well leave it in the bed since that is how it will go. Along with a bunch of Pinto parts I won't be using on my Pinto project.

I got the Lincoln fan all wired and working finally. Drove the car just enough tonight to see that the new speedometer is working. Need to fix a couple of little things, like a lost nut for one of the battery cables, then I can start driving it again. Still need to do the 3G swap, but it looks like the car can handle this fan ok. Maybe since it is an AC car the alternator is a heavier duty one? Don't want to risk it long term, but might be ok til then. Running the fan on low speed, pulls a lot of air.

Thanks,
Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IndyLTD I I Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-June-2015 at 12:42AM
It is possible that you have the factory 70 amp alternator, but many of the A/C cars came with the standard output alternator. The easiest way to tell is the 70amp alternator has it's connections on the side of the alternator instead of on the back and one connection uses a plastic plug instead of ring terminal. The 3g swap is worth it, just because of the increased output at idle speed and that you can eliminate most of the notoriously buggy regulator wiring from the fender well. Here's a picture of the 70amp



Edited by IndyLTD I I - 14-June-2015 at 12:45AM
Lee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-June-2015 at 7:43AM
For the underhood light, the wire should connect to the 12 volt supply on the solenoid. It has an inline fuse then connects to the mercury switch under hood.  Obviously someone messed up the wiring.
 
An Edelbrock 2750 will let you swap to a 4bbl with 2bbl heads.  Still easy to fine new.
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-June-2015 at 2:46PM
Thanks, unfortunately new is not affordable right now. And thanks for the head's up on the under hood light.

Took it out for a real drive today. 2:30 PM in Phoenix, temp outside around 110 degrees F. Car did fine, couple of minor things. Driver didn't do so well, I really need air conditioning. Embarrassed

First, I had meant to flush out the cooling system, although now it would be mainly the block and heater core, everything else is either new or rebuilt. Hasn't been done, had 100% plain water in it. Not good when the system is set to run around 205-210 degrees. Didn't overheat, but I am sure I was close to having steam for a coolant. Got 2 gallons of antifreeze in it before the trip home. No problems. Gauge read the 205-210 all the way home. Fan is working great. Don't plan on doing the flush now, over $30 for 2 gallons of antifreeze. Can't afford to do that again. Do need to do an oil change for sure. Might take it somewhere just to see the looks on the faces. Tongue

Second, I think I mentioned the dash cluster wasn't mounted correctly as I needed to do some more work on it. Well, it fell out more or less. Didn't actually fall to the floor, the steering column stopped it. I put more screws in it, the one I had vibrated out. Something else I need to fix before really driving the car again.

I needed to go get some stuff that wouldn't fit in our other car and I got impatient. But  no real harm, no foul.

Still got the stupid CV 8.8 rear in the bed. Guess it is time to scrap it, waiting a few days for one last shot at selling the Pinto stuff I am not going to be using, then it will be time for a scrap run. Doubt if I will even make gas money, but I am tired of all this stuff taking up space. Unhappy

Thanks,
Russ


Edited by russosborne - 24-June-2015 at 2:51PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-August-2015 at 7:29PM
Well, car is being a pita. It failed the Carbon Monoxide part of the emissions test here. Yes, in AZ in the emission required areas they go back to 1967. It failed the idle test, passed the loaded test with almost zero CO. HC tests all passed pretty well. Just the stupid idle CO test.
Haven't been driving it, and I managed to flood the carb yesterday before I got to the test station, which probably didn't help.
Going to try tweaking the carb a bit and just drive it for a bit in the next week or so. Raise the idle some, it is currently set at 600rpm. Then do the test again.
Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2015 at 2:30AM
very possible, yeah idle it up should help
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2015 at 5:01AM
I forget what affects what but I used to reduce base timing to bare minimum & use ported vacuum for the vacuum advance
 
trimming the carb too lean causes the readings to go through the roof, that was the HC IIRC
 
change the oil, maybe the flood out was the issue? also, fresh oil won't fume off stinkin smoke through the PCV & breather
 
 
72 GT Ute
   
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