The Ford Torino Page Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > General Discussion > Project Updates
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - My 72 Ranchero GT driver/project
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

My 72 Ranchero GT driver/project

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234 8>
Author
Message
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2015 at 1:49PM
Thanks.

I do need to change the oil.

Not sure if there is something going wrong. I drove the car this morning and it was running about 10 degrees hotter than normal. Stayed at around 220.  The fan is working. Plenty of coolant. The oil might be a tad low, but then again the car was at a slight uphill angle when I checked it. A half quart at most as it was sitting.

Add on question. Would too much CO be a lean or a rich issue with the carb?
I don't want to just willy-nilly start tweaking on the mixture screws. And I don't have any test equipment other than a vacuum gauge in the dash that isn't hooked up yet. I'd prefer not to touch anything other than the idle speed if I can avoid it.
Car is running great on the road.

According to the brochure I got from the test station, Carbon Monoxide failing by itself is only one of the following:
  1)Canister purge system malfunction. What is this and do I even have one on a 72?

  2)Carb malfunction/adjustment. Newer rebuilt carb (from Autozone I think),  PO did it. Doesn't mean it couldn't be the problem. But again, the car drives great, this is just an idle issue. Wish I had the money to change to a 4 barrel.

  3)Throttle body or fuel injection-don't have.

  4)Engine/fuel control computer- don't have.

  5)Improper engine coolant mix/improper or malfunctioning thermostat. New coolant and new 195 degree thermostat within the last 5-6 weeks. Coolant may not be exactly right proportion, I put 2 gallons of anti freeze in then filled it the rest of the way with water.

I wouldn't be concerned much but right now isn't the best time for this to be acting up. No money really to spend on it. I can probably do the oil change and adjusting the idle is free. Maybe add some gas treatment/cleaner to it also. Although all I run is premium, it's not always a brand name.

I'm currently driving it on a temp 30 day registration, need to get this fixed before that expires.

Thanks.
Russ


Edited by russosborne - 02-August-2015 at 2:00PM
Back to Top
Rockatansky View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 30-July-2010
Location: On The Road
Status: Offline
Points: 3413
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2015 at 2:11PM
if the carb flooded over that would equate to the 'Canister purge system malfunction'
 
IIRC the canister is on the passenger side inside frame rail near the front, round gizmonaut with vacuum tubing stuck to it. the control valve on the top of the canister is a likely suspect
 
(it's hard for a tech to see ball bearings inside rubber hoses blocking off certain components that may be puked or not wanted to be functional)
 
I know nothing!
72 GT Ute
   
Back to Top
75GranMan View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 05-April-2011
Location: Colchester, CT
Status: Offline
Points: 1198
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75GranMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2015 at 3:03PM
High CO is a rich conditon.You could write a book  There's several different ways to adjust the carb properly. But in order to set it up to pass emissions you 'd need an emmisions machine to see eactly how  adjustments effect the readings. You can try to wing your adjustments but if your test stations are like CT's,you get one free retest...then you have to pay again.
John 75Gran Torino 4spd
Tighten it down until it snaps and then back it off a half turn!
Back to Top
unlovedford View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 17-December-2010
Location: Tennessee
Status: Offline
Points: 9436
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-August-2015 at 3:35AM
We have emissions here and I had a 1989 S-10 that would not pass. On anything 1975-1995, they do a tailpipe sniff test with a wand. Only at idle, no higher rpm test. A buddy of mine suggested a quick fix - shove steel wool (not an SOS pad) up the tailpipes far enough to not contact the wand right around the block from the test site. Drive slowly around the corner, take the test. I passed every time for 5 years with this method, as it cut the flow just enough for the sniffer to not detect high emissions. Pull out of the parking lot, hit the gas and blow the steel wool right out.

Will not work for a high rpm test, for obvious reasons.

Some other tricks -

Vent the PCV to atmosphere and not recirculate the blow-by.
Change the oil.
Run at higher rpms to the site to really warm up the engine.
Make sure all filters are clean and new.
Disconnect the Evap hose to eliminate the unburned vapors from entering the carb.
Run 93 octane fuel but NO additives.

These are just for passing the test and getting your tag. I don't condone cheating, but the emission places here are just a front to make money and can really be a pain.

Case in point: My Civic burns so cleanly, it did not meet their threshold for testing purposes. Failed. When I confronted them about it actually polluting less than it should, they responded that they didn't care. So I pulled a plug wire, drove right back in and it passed. Missing like a b***h, but it was in their range. Stupid. I got out, hooked the plug wire back up after the test (right in their bay) and drove off with my certificate.
Joe
1972 GTSquire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino (2)       
1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous

Back to Top
californiajohnny View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 05-October-2013
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: 8026
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-August-2015 at 2:42PM
Thumbs Up
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
Back to Top
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-August-2015 at 7:32PM
Unfortunately here they do a running/loaded test at about 35mph.
But some good ideas.
I went out to buy a vacuum tester today. I had to order it online, seems no parts stores around here carry them in stock anymore. So Amazon to the rescue. At least I can check out the carb a bit with that.

Need to change the oil, just got a filter today. Got the oil at Walmart but the only filter they listed was designed for synthetic oil so I had to go to Pepboys. And there I found out that the books don't go back anywhere near far enough. Had to go to their website to get the part number. Yes, I could have asked, but I don't like doing that. While I am doing the oil I will check out the air filter and pcv valve. Although I hadn't realised it, but the pcv was disconnected during the emissions test. Have to see what else I have forgotten to put back in place.

Then drive it for a couple hundred miles and try some of the ideas listed here for the retest.

Thanks,
Russ
Back to Top
mcford View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 31-May-2003
Location: Utica, Michigan
Status: Offline
Points: 2149
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2015 at 8:53AM
FORD V8 = FL1A.  ALL YOU NEED OT KNOW.
Mike
Back to Top
unlovedford View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 17-December-2010
Location: Tennessee
Status: Offline
Points: 9436
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2015 at 9:28AM
Just stay away from a Fram or equivalent paper filtering unit. Purolator makes a good filter.
Joe
1972 GTSquire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino (2)       
1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous

Back to Top
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-August-2015 at 10:02AM
It passed emissions!
The mixture screws were way out. Turned them all the way in, then out one and a half turns. Ended up with them at two and a half. Set idle to 800 in drive (1200 in park). Almost zero Carbon Monoxide at idle now. Need to turn the idle back down now.
Russ
Back to Top
californiajohnny View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 05-October-2013
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: 8026
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-August-2015 at 10:19AM
Clap yeah if the mixture screws were way out that would make it run rich, and probably make their machine go off the scale LOL glad you got it to pass!
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
Back to Top
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-August-2015 at 11:28AM
Thanks.
It has been so long since I messed with carbs I had forgotten that those screws were only for the idle. I kept wondering how it ran so good on the road. Embarrassed
I was worried I was going to need a new carb, I had turned the screws in a full turn and nothing happened. Thought it was toast. Must have been out 5 turns.

Wish it had the ac on and working, I would love to be driving it. I am about $500 or more short to buy the rest of the parts. But with the temps what they are here I can't handle the heat very well. Although I do have to drive it this Monday, told the wife I would so she wouldn't have to drive me to work to be able to use the other car like she has had to do lately. Might have to buy a bag of ice to sit in on the trip home.
Russ


Edited by russosborne - 29-August-2015 at 11:29AM
Back to Top
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-December-2015 at 11:53PM
Well, been awhile.Embarrassed

I have been driving the car a bit. Steering has gotten scary. Very loose.
So I just ordered the Lares 841 box and a new coupler with some Christmas money. Hoping that is all the steering needs.
If not then oops. But I wanted the better box anyway.

Still haven't gotten much else done to it. I am always worried I will screw it up and not be able to drive it. Driving it is a sanity keeper right now for me. Major depression isn't fun at all.

I think the carb is still not right. It has been really stumbling when I step on the gas when the engine is cold. It didn't really do that as bad last winter when I was driving it regularly. Not sure if I need a choke on the car. That may have been why the mixture screws were so far out. Not too worried about it right now, I just have to remember to let it warm up before taking off.

Thanks,
Russ
Back to Top
Rockatansky View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 30-July-2010
Location: On The Road
Status: Offline
Points: 3413
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-December-2015 at 5:26AM
back in the days of carbs & chokes you didn't even think about driving the car until it had warmed up
 
you're in AZ, do you have a thermostat in it?
72 GT Ute
   
Back to Top
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-December-2015 at 10:56AM
Yep. 195 degree. It had a 160 degree one when I bought it but the books all seemed to say it needed the higher temp.
Back to Top
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-February-2016 at 4:42PM
been a while. oops.
Really haven't done much with it. My wife was in the hospital for about 7 weeks and has been in rehab for 3. No end in site yet.

I bought her an 89 Mustang LX Hatchback with the 2.3 and auto. She was supposed to drive the Ranchero, but it's too much for her.  Was looking for Ranchero stuff on CL and the seller had it listed in the parts section. $450, runs and drives. Needs work, have new exhaust to go on it now, a hatch and a driver's door window. Mainly needs a good full tune up/fluid change. Plus doing the 3G swap and bigger sway bars. Needs some cleaning up it sat for I don't know how long with no driver's window, been mainly collecting parts for it. Haven't gotten around to doing much with it with all the time I am spending with my wife. I get home after midnight, I want to work on it and the Ranchero then, but I am about 15 feet if that from the neighbor's bedroom wall.

I did get the Lares box, but the Mustang is parked on jackstands where I need to put the Ranchero. Driveway is sloped, so no jacking it up there. Last drove it to Mesa to get a door window and a hatch for the Mustang, those are still in the bed. I need to get the Mustang stuff out of it so I can drive it. I need to feel the power again.

Thanks,
Russ




Edited by russosborne - 26-February-2016 at 4:44PM
Back to Top
californiajohnny View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 05-October-2013
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: 8026
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-February-2016 at 5:15PM
hope your wife is doing better. there are tons of those fox body mustangs around, so parts shouldn't be a problem! that 2.3 is a damn good motor and you can get performance parts for them Wink i have one in my ford courier, and it's not stock either Wink
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
Back to Top
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2016 at 6:03PM

Darn it, I just fat fingered away all of my post. Here goes take 2.

Wife  has been home 3 weeks tomorrow (Friday). Doing better, finally. She has to change all of her eating habits and that is really been tough for her.

As posted in another thread, the front end ate one of the tires.

Still haven't gotten under it to look around, but planning on all new stuff. Need to see what ball joints I have.

Ordered the Energy Suspension front control arm poly bushings today, along with a new pitman arm. Wanted a new one of those to go with the new Lares quick ratio box I have been putting off installing.
Need to get the ball joints so I can at least do all of the control arm stuff at one time. Not sure when I can do the steering. Probably be buying it one piece at a time from Rock Auto since they have Moog parts. Guess those are still the way to go. ???
I also ordered the Energy Suspension sway bar links. I was on a roll I guess. Didn't order the sway bar bushings yet. There is an billet aluminum sway bar mount I would like to get, depends on finances though. I'd also like to get a larger sway bar, but that is really low on the priority list right now.

Need to get back out to the garage room as my wife calls it. It's a built in carport. That is where all my tools and crap are. I bought a 12ton hydraulic press tonight from HF so I can do the bushings. Need to finish putting it together, I needed a break to cool off.
Might have been cheaper right now to just take the arms somewhere, but since I have to reuse the shells I figured I might as well bite the bullet and go ahead and buy it. I will need it for other stuff later on anyway.

Thanks,
Russ


Back to Top
californiajohnny View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 05-October-2013
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: 8026
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2016 at 6:34PM
good call on the idler arm, they seem to always be worn out like the ones on an s-10 Confused
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
Back to Top
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2016 at 6:53PM
my wife is going to kill me.
I went ahead and bought the outer and inner tie rods and the idler arm. Only things left are the ball joints which I would have bought if I got off my rear and went out to see which I need, and the center link(which it seems I have to buy from P-S-T). And maybe little stuff like the rubber stops/bumpers. Although they may not be that cheap. So far I've only seen them from some company called Rare Parts. Very expensive. Need to keep looking.

If I disappear from here you guys know what happened to me. Ouch

Thanks,
Russ


Edited by russosborne - 07-April-2016 at 6:54PM
Back to Top
russosborne View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 01-January-2015
Location: Glendale AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 444
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2016 at 6:58PM
Oh, looking at the factory service manual reminded me I need the RUBBER strut rod bushings. Looking to see what else I need.
Russ
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234 8>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.063 seconds.