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My 72 Ranchero GT driver/project

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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-April-2016 at 7:14AM
I looked, the ball joints are bolt in. Guess the car was updated at some point, or maybe Ford was using those earlier than the 3/72 date. Mine is 12/71.
Either way, I went ahead and ordered Moog joints. Everything I've ordered is Moog except for the poly control arm bushings and sway bar end links, got Energy Suspension for those. Still need the sway bar mounting bushings, probably use E.S. for those as well. I really want a larger bar, but unless one drops on my head from above it isn't going to happen this time around.

Found the rubber strut rod bushings, but can't order them yet. Using a credit card for all this, and I haven't even gotten the physical card. It's through Amazon, so I can use it there, which is what I am doing. They have rubber bushings there, but brands I have never heard of before. The only Moog one listed there says it's urethane. Have no clue why no rubber Moog there, as I have found them elsewhere.???

I still have work to do on the 89 Mustang before I can move it and make room to start on the Ranchero. So although I want the parts here now, I don't need them this second.
 
I also have to move my 74 Pinto shell somehow. It is off the concrete slab but close enough so that the Ranchero doesn't fit all the way so that I could close the gate. Tried once, got a small dime sized dent on the Ranchero hood from the Pinto. Can't leave the gate open due to our dogs. It's going to be a question of inches, hope I can move the Pinto enough, only have 6 inches or so before it hits the back fence. Hard to do some of this stuff alone. We don't have a lot of room.

Checked on the tires. Cooper Cobra P225/7015 on the front. Going to run just about $300 for all the bells and whistles to get them installed. The back tires are also Cooper Cobras, so I want to keep the matching look. Guess I have to pay to do that. Old days I would have went with whatever fit and was cheap. This may not get done anytime soon. Credit card has more on it already than I wanted. I didn't want to use it at all. But I will get all the stuff replaced and see what happens financially.

No idea on the cost of an alignment these days. I'm expecting sticker shock on this one as well.

Thanks,
Russ


Edited by russosborne - 08-April-2016 at 7:15AM
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Dan the ranchero man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan the ranchero man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-April-2016 at 8:33AM
quote:  No idea on the cost of an alignment these days.
About $60-$90 range
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-April-2016 at 9:15AM
Wherever you take it for alignment, talk to them first. A lot of shops don't have the necessary tools, or alignment specs for our cars anymore.
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-April-2016 at 2:46PM
Thanks.
 I think I have ended up buying everything I will need. Waiting on it all to come in. Almost all are Moog parts, except the control arm bushings and sway bar stuff which is Energy Suspension, and the center link is P-S-T (couldn't find a Moog part).
Getting the energy to do this is going to be an issue with my health the way it is. But I need to force myself to do this. I miss driving it.
Russ


Edited by russosborne - 13-April-2016 at 2:47PM
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Dan the ranchero man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan the ranchero man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-April-2016 at 9:02AM
Originally posted by Big Bird Big Bird wrote:

Wherever you take it for alignment, talk to them first. A lot of shops don't have the necessary tools, or alignment specs for our cars anymore.
 
You don't need the spec book anymore. They throw it up on the machine and line it up. There is a shop here that I take all the cars including the rancheros. Never had a problem.
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-April-2016 at 1:12PM
Started on it today. Taking another break, been about 30 minutes work to 60 minutes break. I'm too old for this stuff. Not sure if I am done for the day or not. Really tired, but I'd like to finish the driver's side.

Got the sway bar, strut rods, drivers side spindle and lower control arm off so far. Steering off except for the box and coupler. Off as in not connected to the car anymore, but still dangling from the box.

The lower control arm mounting bolt nut was way loose. And the bushing for it is shot. Shock upper bushing also bad, as was the strut rod bushing.

Will  post pictures later on.

Thanks,
Russ
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-April-2016 at 3:29PM
In a burst of energy from I have no idea where, I got the passenger side apart as well. It's lower control arm bushing was just as bad as the other side, but the rest of the rubber seemed a bit better. Nothing was good, so it is a good thing I went ahead with this instead of trying to fix just what was wrong.

So all that is still on the car is the steering, which I thought I would have done first. Rag joint and gear box. Everything else is just hanging. Rag joint concerns me, it's a lot closer to the firewall and brake stuff than I am used to. May try to do it tomorrow, but depends on how I feel. Right now I don't want to work on a car ever again. But I am sure that will change after I get clean and have a good night's sleep.

Thanks,
Russ
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Dan the ranchero man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan the ranchero man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2016 at 9:20AM
been there done that :). Get some rest and you will find some new found energy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2016 at 1:03PM
i too have thought that about such a daunting task ahead of me on several of my cars but ...just remember with all new urethane bushings and joints it will be better than new and drive nice and last way longer Thumbs Up that's how i get through it! (and lots of four letter words during LOL)
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Dan the ranchero man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan the ranchero man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2016 at 2:05PM
Remember: We do this because we like it and it's fun. (keep telling yourself that every time you bust a knuckle Censored or have to remove a stubborn nut or bolt Censored) Repeat after me.... This is fun and I love my car Big smile !
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Ranchero Fan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranchero Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2016 at 3:24PM
The warm tingly feeling you  you get  during  that first drive, after all that knuckle busting, on top of the money you saved doing it yourselfLOL, makes it all worth it. and you do it all over again, come the next go 'round
Brian   1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-April-2016 at 5:51PM
Until you hear that "snap" and go veering off the cliff and end in a big fireball.
Clown

I have a couple of question posts going where I talk about the problems from today. So some of the following may be a repeat.

Sigh. I got the box and the rag joint off today finally. Haven't been working on it because of the weather (too hot for me) and my wife was in the ER twice over the weekend. But today was nice out, only in the 70's(really cool for Phoenix in late April) and my wife isn't well but is at least home.

I found out that the lower control arm ball joints are riveted on. Not something I was expecting to have to deal with. Got one set of control arms pretty much cleaned up. Soaking the others now. Purple Power works really well. I didn't get quite a big enough container and could have used another couple of gallons of the stuff. But it is working.

Need to find my propane torch. Have a nice electric ignition one, just have no idea where it got to. I put it somewhere where I knew I couldn't forget, and I promptly forgot. Been well over a year since then. Can't afford a new one, so I will have to tear the workshop room apart to find it.

I did notice that the Ranchero floor is totally rusted. From the heel of the firewall (looks like they overlap from what I saw underneath) all the way back to where the floor curves up. Censored The area under the seats looks really bad. May have to mickey mouse something to keep from falling through the floor while driving. Almost no welding experience, just a 3 hour class, and only a HF flux core welder. Will have to try to get a really thorough look to see if it is safe or not. Not going to be replacing the floor any time soon.

Right now I'm really tempted to pull the engine and trans and put them in my 74 Pinto. I want a 351C in it anyway so the temptation is real. Problem is I really want a 72 Ranchero with one as well, and this is the only one I will get.

Thanks,
Russ



Edited by russosborne - 26-April-2016 at 5:52PM
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Dan the ranchero man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan the ranchero man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2016 at 10:22AM
Grind the heads off the rivets and use a punch to remove them. The new one will come with the correct nut/bolts hardware to finish the job. You should not worry about having to re rivet the new one in. The floors are a different story. You will need some sheet metal working experience or you will have to pay someone to fix those up for you. What you need to check is if the seat mounting braces are in good shape. If they are then for temporary (I mean temporary) I have used 3/4 treated plywood cut to fit just so my feet would not go through the floor. Then once the cash was available I had the floors fixed.    
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2016 at 12:30PM
Yeah, the ball joints aren't a big deal, just another thing with more steps than I had thought it would take to get done.

Are the seat mount braces on the seat side or the road side of the floor? I don't think I saw anything under the car, but I may have had too much on my mind to notice.

Thanks,
Russ
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Dan the ranchero man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan the ranchero man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2016 at 1:19PM
Seat braces are inside the car. Once you remove the seats and pull back the carpet you will see them.
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2016 at 1:25PM
Ok, thanks.
Now getting the seats out is the issue. Tried to get the driver's bucket out to get under the dash, couldn't do it. Couldn't get all the bolts loose.
 I need to do something to get them out though. I could see through the floor into the interior from under the car in a few spots. Need to at least seal the leaks up for now if nothing else.

Flintstones, meet the Flintstones, they're the modern stone age family. ........

Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2016 at 4:32PM
russ, don't feel bad my floors were rusted too. but a suggestion on the seat bolts...you said you couldn't get a socket on it, try a ratchet wrench! it can fit in a small spot Wink if you don't have any the harbor freight ones work great i'd put those up against any big dollar ones, and i think they were about $11 or so? i bought a set for my step-brother and we've used them on our big trucks with no issues!!!
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2016 at 7:35PM
Thanks.
I do have those. Problem is I can't get any real leverage to break the bolt free. Not going to really worry about it until after I get the front end back together. Unless something comes up that makes me.
Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-April-2016 at 9:20PM
Well, something came up that is making me get the seat out.
Short version here since I have asked about it in the model year section.
I have to take the steering column out. It's loose, but I can't get to the shift lever/cable whatever at the bottom of it while kneeling from the outside. I was hoping that there would be enough slack so I could pull the column out enough for me to get to that stuff, but nope. Probably an unrealistic hope.
So I bought an 18 inch pipe to use as a breaker bar and I was able to get a 3/8ths breaker bar with the socket on the seat bolt, barely. Haven't tried the breaker bar, got it this evening after I was done working on the car. I noticed today that there is part of the seat bracket that is over the bolt area. Guess Ford didn't ever think that someone might need to use air tools or even just a half inch ratchet to get the bolts off. I do have a very nice half inch 20 inch breaker bar, but it is way to big to fit on this bolt. Hence the pipe.

I also need to pull the steering wheel. I have had this one off before, couldn't find the proper sized bolts to use my puller with, so I also bought some (hopefully) of those. Another thing to work on when I get going again Friday (oops, it's Friday already). Well then, when I wake up. This time I will get my Grant wheel on correctly (adapter cover piece needs a slight trim) and toss the stock wheel. I hate that wheel.

I got the new Lares box installed. Need to get the hoses connected and I need to get a new piece of return hose since I cut the old one. This is already setup for just the hose, not sure if that was stock or a mod someone else did. I wanted to get the box installed so when I put the column back together and back on the car the lower part of the column won't slide out again. That would not be good.
I'd like to get all new hoses, for the power steering as well as everywhere else, but not in the budget right now. New tires that match what is on the car is going to be $300. And then the alignment. Can't afford that stuff right now, so nothing that isn't absolutely needed for now.

While I have the dash apart again, I am going to finish up the gauges, change the speedometer cable, and work on the mounting of the instrument panel as some of the tabs it screws onto are broken. Maybe I can get energetic enought to come up with a repair (thin aluminum maybe) for the driver's side defrost vent. The top inch or so is gone completely. I used black duct tape on the vent tube that goes to the vent near the door, but can't do that with this.

Or I will get overly frustrated and scrap it. I do have a history of doing that. I am feeling really frustrated that I have to keep taking more stuff off to get this stupid steering coupler on. I really didn't want to mess with the seats or the dash right now. I barely have the energy to do the parts swapping without adding more.

Russ


Edited by russosborne - 28-April-2016 at 9:25PM
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-April-2016 at 10:02AM
I may throw up.

I got the steering wheel off, had to hammer a bolt in one of the holes. good thing that wheel is history.

So I gave the driver's seat another go. Got the two front bolts off and it tilts back. The inner (by the tunnel) bolt tore what little it appears was left of the floor there. Got about a two inch dia. hole.
I am going to pull the passenger seat soon, as soon as I get the courage to go back out there, and then remove all the carpet and padding.

I'm having deja vu here. In Ohio I had bought a 70 Pontiac Lemans to replace a 70 GTO I had in the 80's. Not a real replacement, but GTO prices have gone far beyond my means. Anyway, the car looked solid, even had people tell me my quarters were perfect. I started in on it, and found the floors rotted out with street signs used to reinforce it. Ok, Ohio car, I kind of expected floor rot. Got to the quarters. There were places that had literally 2 inches of Bondo. And then I found that the rear window/trunk panel was totally gone inside the car. Looked ok from outside. Ended up buying a body that had had floors and quarters replaced, from a Pontiac friend for $1000 on a payment plan. Ended up having a heart attack and never got back to the car much. Sold the project for $500 since we were moving back to AZ and I couldn't bring it with me.

I'll get pictures when I pull the carpet out.
Not doing anymore with the front end until I see if I can save the car. No welding skills at all and just a HF flux core only cheapo welder. Replacing the floor isn't possible right now,can't afford them, best I can do (if the car is not too far gone) is to put homemade patch panels over the worst of the rusted areas.

Like I said earlier, I may throw up. This is my worst nightmare come to life.

Thanks,
Russ
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