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Original 4300D carburetor.

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Anderslober View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Original 4300D carburetor.
    Posted: 10-January-2020 at 6:58AM
Hello forum......please be gentle....I am still learning.

I bought a nice 4300D/4sp carb for my 72 GTS/351CJ/4sp. (There was a Holley on before).

Just 2 qq`s.....what are the `appendages` on either side for? I have seen many pictures og 4300D without the `appendages`.
I am guessing something to do with A/C and idling.....my car does not have A/C or anything.....


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-January-2020 at 12:10PM
The one on the front of the carb is the throttle solenoid and the one on the rear is the choke vacuum control assembly.  Both were used on the 4300D carbs regardless of A/C or not.  The throttle solenoid was used also as an anti-diesel device, but allowing the throttle to close more when the car was shut off to prevent dieseling or run-on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-January-2020 at 1:07PM
Great info...thanks. But, how come I see a lot of carbs without the `appendages`? Are the appendages necessary for normal operation?

I need the center pin/screw where the air cleaner wing nut mounts......where to buy? Or does anyone have one or similar?

Thanks.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-January-2020 at 10:04AM
because so many 'experts' removed them and threw them into the bin


thinking they were going to improve performance but got only headaches instead
72 GT Ute
   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-January-2020 at 12:12PM
+1

If you are going to keep it 100% original, you should keep them. You could probably get away with dumping the throttle solenoid if you tune it better than the stock "smog era specs", but why?  It doesn't really cause any issues, and is really very simple in that when 12 volts is applied it it, it just prevents the throttle from closing all the way.  The other vacuum control helps the choke operate properly. 

You can just get a universal air cleaner stud. The one from your Holley might work.  You can always cut it shorter if need be.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-January-2020 at 12:15PM
the stud may be a stepped size and part of the clamping force that holds the top to the main body?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-January-2020 at 6:57PM
Thanks. I managed to find a stud for my 4300D....quite different from `normal` studs....this is what it looks like...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2020 at 1:18PM
Sorry about that, I just made a quick assumption on the carb stud.  I should have checked the parts diagram first and I would have seen that it wasn't just a standard stud.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-January-2020 at 8:26PM
Regarding the throttle solenoid....is that only for cars with a/c? My Torino does not have a/c. 
Thanks.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote albo74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-January-2020 at 9:24AM
no, ac or not ,  all these car need to warm up on a little higher idle , with out it you may find you need to keep your foot on the pedal  , I have the  stock carb on my 73 complete with all its parts ,  it starts right up ,warms up with out me in the car. It might  have a slight hesitation if you stomp on it , that was a problem for me in 1974  , enter the Holley 650 . but I would 't do that again   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-January-2020 at 9:55AM
wow!..beautiful car and engine! Would you be willing to take of your air cleaner and snap a few photos...both sides? That would be awesome.

Thanks...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote albo74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-January-2020 at 10:17AM
So it's a little after 11 pm your time , up late . Yes I have  lots of pictures with the air cleaner on . but I can get you some close ups with it off  , snow storm tomorrow . I will get in the garage in the afternoon , side note , My great grandparents  immigrated  from Denmark .   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-January-2020 at 3:00PM
if the choke system is adjusted right it should idle up to warm up Wink i think they were mainly for the a/c cars to keep the idle up with the a/c on at a light idling...?
JOHN
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74 VETTE CUSTOM
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77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2020 at 12:03AM
yes...I have asked a bit around.....and it seems the throttle solenoid is mainly for a/c cars.......no need need for it on non a/c cars(mine).

I dunno.....my carb is not the ACTUAL original, but it is a period correct carb(same year/month). I would really like to see, what the original setup looked like.....non a/c, 4sp car.

The other `appendage`, `choke pull-off`....would also be really nice to know of it was there or not.....

Thanks....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote albo74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2020 at 5:55AM
   this is a 4 speed ,  non ac car but it is a 73 , so they did add some emissions control stuff to it ,   intake manifold to the carb ,  that was to recycle un burn gasses . not to healthy for the carb . I left it on for the stock look but  taped and plugged  .  sorry  the pictures aren't the best .
 


Edited by albo74 - 16-January-2020 at 6:12AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote albo74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2020 at 6:00AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2020 at 7:52AM
Great pictures! Thanks...
Keep em comin`....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve M. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2020 at 11:29AM
Very nice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2020 at 3:00PM
It sounds like you want to remove the solenoid? Like I said earlier, cars without A/C had them too. It was primarily an anti-dieseling device. If you have a 1972 factory service manual, the idle adjustment procedure includes setting the solenoid. There is no process for 1972 4300D carb that doesn't include that step. It also says that it is not strong enough to open the throttle (ie like an a/c high idle type solenoid). That said, I am sure you can run without it if you really want too.

The rear choke vacuum assembly is used for proper choke operation. Not sure why you'd want to remove it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2020 at 3:12PM
Great info. I have just finished servicing the carb...very easy to work on. 
I would like to keep everything as stock as possible. But, I also want/like to keep things simple. I will install with the solenoid and choke pull-off.
There is a connector on the harness (runs over the intake)that looks like it connects to the solenoid. I hope it is the right connector, so I dont ‘blow’ something up.

Also.....regarding the choke pull-off.....to what vacuum source do I connect it??

(The car came with an ill-fitting Holley....so I bought the ‘original’ 4300D)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2020 at 4:29PM
generally on most carbs with a choke pull off it's connected to direct vacuum, in theory as soon as the engine starts it opens the choke slightly so not to flood the engineWink
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2020 at 6:03PM
ok...direct vacuum....would that be a connection on the carb...or the intake?

I dont know why the 72/351cj/4sp vacuum diagram is soooo secret and hard to come by....why?.

The diagram that was posted in another thread is very hard to see...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote handsofstone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-January-2020 at 1:02AM
Carb base is manifold vacuum I believe. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-January-2020 at 2:59AM
The 351CJ diagrams aren't that hard to come by, I just posted them for you! Wink

Look here on the non-A/C diagram, you will see that the carb connects to the vacuum tree at the back of the intake.  Most of the stuff that requires vacuum manifold came off this tree.  I zoomed the pic so you can see. See 9S514?  That looks like where the choke pull off connects.  9A474 is the vacuum tree on the manifold.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-January-2020 at 4:29AM
wow..awesome....that picture is much better. Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2020 at 2:23AM
it seems the stud I bought is wrong. It will not fint in the stud hole...shucks...Confused

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote handsofstone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2020 at 3:01AM
Figure out the thread and length then cut and thread it. Not metric. Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote handsofstone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2020 at 3:03AM
looks like you need a 1/4"-20 stud. I used stainless threaded rod I believe nut I have a Holley. Does the short end thread in? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderslober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2020 at 3:35AM
no...short end doesnt thread in....just drops in. Anyway...I will try to find another that fits....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote handsofstone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2020 at 5:00AM
the thread in the carb is deep down the hole. If you make a stud and use a locking nut, be sure to stake the threads on either side of the nut so it never falls off. You can stick a small diameter dowel or wire diwn the hole to see how deep it goes and where the threads start. 
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