Steel vs rubber fuel lines
Printed From: The Ford Torino Page
Category: Model Specific Forum
Forum Name: 1972-1976 Ford and Mercury
Forum Description: Technical discussion for 1972-1976 Ford and Mercury
URL: https://forum.grantorinosport.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=12781
Printed Date: 19-April-2024 at 2:16AM
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Steel vs rubber fuel lines
Posted By: rudy52397
Subject: Steel vs rubber fuel lines
Date Posted: 11-October-2014 at 2:12PM
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We've had our 73' for a few years and I've noticed something on the underbody, I see the end of the original metal fuel line near the sender unit on the back with nothing connected to it, instead someone ran an entire rubber line from the sending unit to the pump. The line to the carb etc. is still the original steel one, but I was wondering which would be better? We took it out today and it didn't stall, but the other day it did (see my other post). I was thinking about replacing the line from the tank to pump anyway one day. Stainless steel from dearborn classics is $119.99, any opinions on why someone would do this (before we got the car about 4 years ago), and would you recommend steel or rubber? What do you guys have on yours? Original 302. ------------- -Rudy 1973 Gran Torino, 2 door hardtop, 302, original Ivy glow paint |
Replies:
Posted By: californiajohnny
Date Posted: 11-October-2014 at 2:41PM
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stainless would definitely be the way to go! someone probably replaced the steel line due to it rusting, especially you guys that are in the salt belt. the rubber (actually it's neoprene) will eventually get old and hard or just deteriorate ------------- JOHN 74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
Posted By: legend onirot
Date Posted: 11-October-2014 at 5:02PM
what he said ------------- --------------------- malcolm 1973 gran torino sport (formal)... "Stacy Lynn" 1972 gran torino (formal)... "Mackenzie" 1973 gran torino sport (sportroof)... "Leela" |
californiajohnny wrote:Posted By: Big Bird
Date Posted: 12-October-2014 at 3:57AM
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That rubber line will deteriorate with today's ethanol gas... Metal is a better idea, and the rubber sections should be modern rubber that is more ethanol resistant. ------------- "What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind." Randy 1979 T-Bird 2005 F-150 STX RCSB 4.6, 3.55 LSD How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds? |
Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 12-October-2014 at 6:13AM
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http://www.fuelhose.org/oil-hose/fuel-injection-hose.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.fuelhose.org/oil-hose/fuel-injection-hose.html you'll still want to use the fluoroelastomer hose for the flex connections at the sender & pumpif it's not this type of rated hose it won't last a season before it's hard as a rock & cracking, the older type rated hoses are like cheesecloth when ethanol goes through them you may not need injection pressure strength but it won't hurt either
------------- 72 GT Ute |
Posted By: 72 RS 351
Date Posted: 12-October-2014 at 6:36AM
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Summit carries several excellent fuel line hoses, varying materials etc. I like steel lines too, but flexible high end fuel line is common to find in tons of street vehicles. I plan to replace all of my 98 SUV system with them, and include bigger fuel filter, fittings etc. The cost per foot is the issue, how much is it worth for each choice. ------------- Don 73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000+ rpm 351-4V &4R70W 73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later. 92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W |
Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 12-October-2014 at 6:52AM
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http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/nicopp-nickel-copper-brake-line-tubing-coil-3-8-x-25-cnc-625/22190270-p" rel="nofollow - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/nicopp-nickel-copper-brake-line-tubing-coil-3-8-x-25-cnc-625/22190270-p ------------- 72 GT Ute |
Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 13-October-2014 at 7:39AM
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I buy all of my steel lines from InLineTube.com and they have always been outstanding. Word of caution on the fuel line however - running that bastard all the way back and up over the wheel well is a challenge. You could break the line right before the wheel well and that would make it easier to install. I am assuming the body is not off the frame at this time. That process was one I struggled with. In the end I got it done, a far better mechanic could have accomplished it without too much problem. A material more formable like regular steel or NiCopp would have made the job over the wheel well easier, although I always appreciate pre-bent lines from InLineTube. If you have some line bending skills, and are not afraid to tackle the problem using straight line, then I'd recommend NiCopp as the ultimate solution. The stuff is literally hand formable, but strong and corrosion resistant (developed by Volvo). The link Rockatansky has is what I used a year ago to buy some. It really is good stuff. ------------- Scott Eklund Webmaster |
Posted By: 72 RS 351
Date Posted: 13-October-2014 at 1:38PM
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That 3/8" brake line must be going on some huge vehicle, LOL. My local hydraulics business carries a flexible brake line which is a brass/copper color. I wonder if it's that same Nicopp stuff. I used this here to make a front line for a friend's car that had an end seize up. The place here said it was legal and originated in Australia. I'm hoping to use it for my Ranchero, and to reroute the lines of my Mercury that run next to the exhaust. ------------- Don 73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000+ rpm 351-4V &4R70W 73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later. 92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W |
Posted By: mcford
Date Posted: 14-October-2014 at 7:52AM
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YES, ITS THAT nIcOPP STUFF. ------------- Mike |
Posted By: Big Bird
Date Posted: 14-October-2014 at 10:42AM
Not supposed to rust  ------------- "What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind." Randy 1979 T-Bird 2005 F-150 STX RCSB 4.6, 3.55 LSD How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds? |
Posted By: rudy52397
Date Posted: 26-September-2017 at 4:36PM
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Probably having the fuel line replaced on my 1973 Gran Torino soon. I’m going to get a stainless one from Macs/Dearborn Classics which I believe is made by inline tube. How many clips will I need? Also is there also a fuel vapor return line on ‘73 Torino’s? If so I’d like to have that replaced too but all I see is one for a 1972 Torino and it’s OE Steel. ------------- -Rudy 1973 Gran Torino, 2 door hardtop, 302, original Ivy glow paint |
Posted By: californiajohnny
Date Posted: 26-September-2017 at 4:51PM
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i don't remember how many clips? 6??? not sure if 73's had the vapor line 74's did you'd have to look on the passenger side frame near the alternator ------------- JOHN 74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
Posted By: changinlatitudes
Date Posted: 27-September-2017 at 1:06AM
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Good job of thread revival! The 73 I recently took down to the frame had the return line. It runs down the passenger side. ------------- Matt 1969 Mercury Marauder 390 1972 Montego MX 2003 Mercury Marauder 300A 1994 F-150 5.8 2016 Ford Fusion Titanium |
Posted By: mtburger
Date Posted: 27-September-2017 at 3:18AM
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Hello All. Another option here. I have replaced the entire fuel system in the last 2 Intermediates I have resurrected, My 1976 Monarch, and a FOX Mustang that I converted to carb from FI. In both instances (of the 72 / 73 Montegos), they had sat for a long periods of time requiring replacement of the tank, the sender and the hard lines. The Mustang was just butchered to no end, and it was easier to replace what was left instead of repair it. I used Speedway 3/8 aluminum line on all 4 cars. It comes in rolls of differing lengths, it is VERY easy to form, bend, and flare. It is cheap too. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Fuel-Line-3-8-Inch-OD,1633.html?sku=91011430-20" rel="nofollow - http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Fuel-Line-3-8-Inch-OD,1633.html?sku=91011430-20 Thanks, Mike H. |
Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 27-September-2017 at 5:17AM
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That's very inexpensive stuff! Much cheaper than NiCopp or a replacement pre-bent line. I know there are some concerns with fuel and/or brake fluid and pure copper line (which is why NiCopp was developed by Volvo in the 60's to begin with), but I assume Aluminum is safe. I've been pretty happy with NiCopp - it is really easy to form (like Al would be I imagine), almost too easy - when I'm flaring ends I have to be careful not to deform it too much. You get so used to steel and especially stainless steel you really reef on the flaring tool but with NiCopp you've got to be delicate almost (at least with the 3/16 brake line). ------------- Scott Eklund Webmaster |
Posted By: rudy52397
Date Posted: 27-September-2017 at 6:29AM
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I’m also probably going to rebuild the carburetor soon too, i’ve already had a new fuel sender unit installed but the gauge still reads wrong sometimes. The gas tank is original and has the US Steel stamp still which can hardly be seen. The original fuel line is rotted though and someone did bypass with a bigger rubber line, I’ll have to check if the return line is rotted too, it probably is. I’ve been thinking about a fuel pump too since it’s cheap but the original Carter one still works. A carb rebuild and new lines are the next things I’m probably going to do though, also thinking of trans lines since they’re rusted and leaking. ------------- -Rudy 1973 Gran Torino, 2 door hardtop, 302, original Ivy glow paint |