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2 Speed Wiper Switch Temp Fix

Printed From: The Ford Torino Page
Category: Model Specific Forum
Forum Name: 1977-1979 Ford and Mercury
Forum Description: Technical discussion for 1977-1979 Ford and Mercury
URL: https://forum.grantorinosport.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=13546
Printed Date: 23-April-2024 at 3:58PM
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 2 Speed Wiper Switch Temp Fix
Posted By: IndyLTD I I
Subject: 2 Speed Wiper Switch Temp Fix
Date Posted: 10-March-2015 at 5:13PM
It happened to me this morning, the middle of a rainstorm... The dreaded wiper switch failure. Nellie is my daily driver at the moment, so I had to come up with a fix to get me by while I track down a replacement. In tracking down the switch pinouts I found several references to people trying to use toggle switches without any luck, so I decided to share my solution. This works, and in my opinion is much safer than trying to hot wire the motor from under the hood, which it seems people have tried.

That being said, I must state this disclaimer...

***I am not an electronics expert. I assume no responsibility or liability for any damage to your vehicle or other property for attempting this repair. This is a temporary fix, not a permanent repair. As always disconnect your battery before working on the electrical system***

First thing I want to show you is the pinout continuity test for the switch. I have an entire Adobe file with wiring diagrams and testing procedures for 77-82 Ford wiper systems if somebody wants to suggest a way to share I would gladly do so.

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Looking at this the first thing I noticed that any time the wipers were on in low or high the terminals A-G-H had continuity, or were connected together. The only difference between speeds was which terminal C or E was connected to D. I looked at the base of my separated switch.

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I noticed terminals A & H were always connected together with a 8 1/4 amp circuit breaker between the two terminals. when the switch was rotated to the low position terminals C&D connected and G&H connected. Turn the switch to high and D&E connected and G&H stayed connected. I was ready to mark my switch socket and wire a bypass.

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I discovered Molex .093 male pin crimp terminals fit the female terminals in the Ford factory connecter. These are pretty common. I got mine from a 9 pin molex connecter kit from Radio Shack part #2740229. Napa and Car Quest should have them in their Weather Pack connector supplies. You might be able to raid some from connecters at the junk yards, if you go this route make sure the wire is at least 16ga. Here's a picture of the pin terminal.

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I crimped the connecters on lengths of 16ga wire then soldered them. I pushed one into Ford connecter on the vehicle. I then slid a length of heat shrink tube over the wire and pin terminal until no metal was exposed. I repeated that for the remaining leads. Sorry I don't have pictures of that I ran out of light and the half of me hanging out from under the dash was soaked. Here's a very basic circuit diagram I made in MS Paint. I hope it makes sense.

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The way I am running it terminal A connects to an ATC (blade style) fuse holder I have a 10 amp fuse in it now, but I am replacing it with an 8amp circuit breaker that fits the holder as soon as I receive it from O'reilly  Auto. The wire exiting from the fuse holder connects to two wires, one plugs into terminal H, the other connects to one side of a toggle switch. The wire from terminal G connects to the other side of the toggle switch. That completes the power side of the wiring. The speed control side is as simple as you want it to be. Make a jumper and connect terminal C&D for low, or terminal D&E for high speed. I included a example of how to wire a SPDT switch to change speeds on the fly, if you have room to run a second switch. The only switch you have to turn off is the power circuit, you will not have park function, but at least you can use your wipers in an emergency while you're waiting on that replacement switch. Hey, I wonder if you took 12volts from the terminal G side of your power toggle switch ran it to a momentary on push button switch and then to that terminal marked with a W if the washer pump might work? Wink

Please be careful, don't eliminate the circuit protection. Use a circuit breaker of some sorts, no bigger than a 10amp. Be safe!




-------------
Lee Virden
1978 LTD II S



Replies:
Posted By: californiajohnny
Date Posted: 10-March-2015 at 6:21PM
good info! had a similar situation many years ago (wiper motor burnt up) that's when i found out how awesome rain-x (original formula) works!!! use it on all my vehicles ever since Thumbs Up

-------------
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION


Posted By: IndyLTD I I
Date Posted: 10-March-2015 at 10:29PM
What gets me is I used to have a collection of spare switches. When I figured I would never find another of these cars, I sold them, and judging by EBay far below market value. Oh well, that's just the way it goes.

-------------
Lee Virden
1978 LTD II S


Posted By: 12gaugenick
Date Posted: 27-December-2018 at 4:42AM
Would you possibly still have the pdf?

Im currently trying to wire a new switch



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