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INFO: 72 - 79 Gauge Clusters and Wiring

Printed From: The Ford Torino Page
Category: Model Specific Forum
Forum Name: 1972-1976 Ford and Mercury
Forum Description: Technical discussion for 1972-1976 Ford and Mercury
URL: http://forum.grantorinosport.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=2933
Printed Date: 18-August-2018 at 2:56AM
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Topic: INFO: 72 - 79 Gauge Clusters and Wiring
Posted By: Psquare75
Subject: INFO: 72 - 79 Gauge Clusters and Wiring
Date Posted: 04-January-2010 at 4:17PM
Taken from Ranchero.us, with permission from 72GTVA

<My thanks to Spence, Dan, Rob, HR, Clark, and others for their inputs to this article.

If you see an area that needs expansion or if you have questions, PM or email through the site.

Part 1:

While they look similiar, there are a lot of differences in the '72 to '79 Gauge Groups that merits explanation. There are, in fact, 4 distinct groups of these clusters and there is a mixture of them between the model year cars. '72 and '73 are unique to those years, '74 and '75 are also unique to those years although some of these same clusters are found in '76 models. '76 "high" series was unique to the cars it was installed in, and '77 to '79 had some variations in those years as well. Be warned that when you purchase one of these for an upgrade or to replace your existing but deteriorating dash you may be in for some surprises.

These are the main groups:

Front:



Back:




These are the gauge covers for comparison, it should be noted that for some 1974 models depending on DSO code they did not have the "UNLEADED FUEL ONLY" branding on the fuel gauge, all US Market 1975 and up did.



The '72 and '73 Gauge Clusters used metal gauge face trim pieces and edge lighting to identify the gauge functions. This is the unique '72 and '73 Gauge Cover with associated pieces:




-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500



Replies:
Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 04-January-2010 at 4:21PM
Part 2:

This photo shows the difference between the '72 and '73 Gauge Cover and the later year covers:



The case back where the gauges mount was modified beginning in 1974 and carried on through the 1979 models. Most of the differences are shown below:



One of the changes not readily apparent is the difference in the depth of the gauges, the change being implemented by increasing the size of the stand-offs cast into the back.




The printed circuit connectors and more importantly the pin outs were different for each of the main year groups:




-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 04-January-2010 at 4:24PM
Part 3:

6 different printed circuits were used across the groups. 4 of the six will be shown here, '77, '78 and '79 each had it's own engineering number on the circuit however, the wiring and pin outs appear to be the same.

'72 and '73 and the '74 and '75 printed circuits. Some 1976 models had the '74 and '75 cluster with printed circuit:



'76 and '77 - '79 Printed circuits: High series 1976 had a unique printed circuit that could also be found in some '77 - '79 series vehicles. This was dependent on options installed with these cars:




The gauge layouts differed between the year groups as well:



Tachometer and indicator lights differed through the year groups '72 - '76 Green Printed Circuit Tachometers are serial tachometers:




-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 04-January-2010 at 4:28PM
Part 4:

The '72 through '76 speedometers feature a 120 MPH range while the '77 - '79 featured an 85 MPH limit. Speedometers for the year groups:




Shown below is a Police 140 MPH speedometer fitted into a member's '77 - '79 Gauge cluster. Note no Trip Odometer.



auge Cluster wire harness on the back of the cluster differed between groups with the '72 and '73 using a harness that included one of the turn signal indicators in addtion to tachometer, ammeter, and clock wiring, shown below:


The '74 -'79 eliminated the need for turn signal indicator on the harness, and the '77 - '79 change the connector type and added a ground wire for the tachometer:




The '77 to '79 Tachometer changes from a serial tachometer. The wiring as shown in the picture above shows the three leads, connections for these tachometers is:
Red - power through ignition switch
Black - Ground G206
Green/white dots - signal from the (-) of the coil to the tach




-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 04-January-2010 at 4:34PM
Part 5:

Wiring:

This is the factory harness that connects the harness on the back of the cluster to the engine wiring harness:




This is the factory engine to fuse block harness that contains the integral tachometer and ammeter wiring:




For those that are troubleshooting Tachometer or ammeter wiring issues or those retrofitting a gauge cluster into a standard car the following rough sketches show the proper wiring paths:

1972 through 1976 (Green Printed Circuit) Tachometer:





Ammeter: To properly install the wiring for the ammeter you need an insulator junction block, one or two (recommended) 14 Gauge fusible links, 30-36 inches of yellow 10 gauge primary wire, and yellow and red 14 gauge primary wire (approximately 12' of each). Install the insulated junction block on the flat boss under the starter solenoid, take the original primary wiring off of the starter solenoid and attach to the insulated junction block, then install the shunt per the diagram below:





For those that are retrofitting a gauge cluster into a standard dash car you need to change the oil pressure switch with an oil pressure sending unit and then install the tachometer and ammeter wiring above. The final item required is to tap off of your cigar lighter power feed (light blue / white stripe) for clock power.





-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 04-January-2010 at 4:38PM
Part six:

This is the gauge harness pin-outs:



This is the standard cluster in the '72 and '73 (74 - 76 are similiar):

Front:



Back:






The Gauges and Optional clock:



It should be noted that the same printed circuit connector is used appropriate to the year groups, a '72 and '73 standard cluster would not be "plug and play" with a '74 and later cluster.




-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 04-January-2010 at 4:39PM
This is a sketch of the parallel tach used in the '77 through '79 models and some '76 vehicles as well:




-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: picon3
Date Posted: 05-January-2010 at 1:49AM

Excellent info.  We may want to put it at the top of the forum like the tire one so it doesn't move down and get lost.  What ya' think?  Paul~



-------------
1972 GTS 351CJ-4V black/black


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 05-January-2010 at 3:36AM
It's  been 'stickied'. Not going anywhere. One of the admins at Ranchero.us gave us his permission to use his thread so I copied the pictures and moved it here.. :)

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Torinogts73c
Date Posted: 06-January-2010 at 10:59AM

Lots of good info even for troubleshooting problems. Thanks Paul!!Wink



-------------
Gary 73 Gran Torino Sport 351CJ,SVT LIGHTNING,07 CHARGER R/T HEMI,97 Mustang GT Vert

"Never complain Never explain"


Posted By: neejah
Date Posted: 29-March-2010 at 3:14PM
Does anyone have any idea what the pin outs are for the clusters? I've been wiring up a 73 cluster into a 72 which obviously have different connectors........but I don't think that the wiring color code remained the same between the years (I could be wrong tho......but I connected the color codes from the 72 onto the 73 connector, and the indicator & brake warning lamps illuminated together) ideally if someone has a list with the pin outs for a 72 ( with color codes) and 73 it would be good.
The wiring diagram leaves a little to be desired! Either that or it's me in the garage with a multimeter and a pencil tracing the PCB!
Thanks
Neil


Posted By: neejah
Date Posted: 08-April-2010 at 1:33PM
For posterity (fitting a '74/'76 cluster into a '72) -

Pin PCB Connections ('74-'76) Car ('72)
Purple/White (Brake) Purple/White
2 Red/White (Eng Temp) Red/White
3 Blue/Red (Illumination) Blue/Red
4 Black (-ve supply)
5 White/Blue (Right Turn Ind) White/Blue
6 Green/White (Left Turn Ind) Green/White
7 Green/Black (High Beam Ind) Green/Black
8 Black - Don't Splice (+12v) Black - Don't Splice (+12v)
9 Yellow/White (Oil Pressure) White/Red
10 White/Red (Fuel) Yellow/White
11 Green/Red (No connection on PCB) Green/Red
12 Yellow/White (Top RH Warning Lamp)
13 Green (Btm RH Warning Lamp)
14 Red/Yellow Dash (-ve) Red/Yellow Dash (under hood conn.)

Notes: Pin 14 & Pin 4 I routed to a new ground - the harness for pin 14 terminated in an underhood connection which didn't go anywhere.
Pins 12 & 13 I haven't connected at the minute - I might use them for a shift light at some point in the future.......didn't really care about the fasten seat belt warning!

Hopefully it might help someone in future.........

Neil




Posted By: GRAN1976TORINO
Date Posted: 10-April-2010 at 6:01AM
Would you happen to know what wires off the engine to firewall "cluster" would specifically be dedicated to a 1976 Torino water temperature sending unit? I have replaced the gauge on the dash (standard version - not sport cluster) as well as the actual sending unit on the engine and it still wont work. I even tried "shorting" out the sending unit in hopes to "ping" the gauge but still no-go. I am wondering if I need to just run new wires. Thoughts? Thanks!


Posted By: picon3
Date Posted: 10-April-2010 at 12:50PM
Neil,
Wow, that was a lot of work!  Cudos to you and for posting the info.
Paul~


-------------
1972 GTS 351CJ-4V black/black


Posted By: neejah
Date Posted: 10-April-2010 at 1:21PM
Originally posted by GRAN1976TORINO GRAN1976TORINO wrote:

Would you happen to know what wires off the engine to firewall "cluster" would specifically be dedicated to a 1976 Torino water temperature sending unit? I have replaced the gauge on the dash (standard version - not sport cluster) as well as the actual sending unit on the engine and it still wont work. I even tried "shorting" out the sending unit in hopes to "ping" the gauge but still no-go. I am wondering if I need to just run new wires. Thoughts? Thanks!

I'd have expected that the wire colours are as shown above - the water temp wiring runs to a four pin connector near the wiper motor, I'd check for corrosion in that first. Do a continuity check on the short under hood harness to the sender & back to the clocks - it should tell you which area has the problem - it could also be in the firewall multi plug. Is the PCB on the rear of the clocks OK?
If the worst comes to the worst I wouldn't see a problem running a new wire in!
Good Luck
Neil

Originally posted by picon3 picon3 wrote:

Neil,
Wow, that was a lot of work!  Cudos to you and for posting the info.
Paul~

A while sitting with a multi meter! Hopefully it might help someone else out.......although it just confirmed the fact that I'd like to get my hands on the "mechanic" that did some wiring on mine Wink........just spent today sorting out the under hood stuff, and tidying it up!
Cheers
Neil


Posted By: TechMdawg
Date Posted: 01-May-2010 at 1:19PM
Because of this post I may have to remove my instrument cluster to clean and possibly replace the bulbs with led lights, lots of great and interesting work.THANKS!!!!!!

-------------
Tech Mdawg                 1975 Ford Torino Elite
1973 Gran Torino "sold"


Posted By: GA Army Vet
Date Posted: 22-November-2010 at 2:46PM
What size tach fits in the 73 gran torino sport, spot on the dash? Something from summit, they have alot of sizes, I want something that will mount inside the empty spot.  Is there a spot in my wire harness to wire it in if it didnt come with it?

-------------
1973 GTS-351c C6 28sp axle 2.73gears (looking to change)



2004 electric wheelchair super fast!



Disabled Iraq Vet, IED boke my back and severed my nerves into my legs I can walk but it hurts bad.


Posted By: steeler80
Date Posted: 25-November-2010 at 6:16PM
This thread is terrific. Thanks! I had found a 73 Ranchero with the gt gauge cluster and was wondering if it would work in my 74. Now I know.


Posted By: Damo70
Date Posted: 23-December-2010 at 1:07AM
Hi Psquare
I have installed a dash cluster into my 75 gran torino, everything was working fine however no lights around fuel gauge, changed globes and all sorted. I connected all back together and blew a fuse for the cluster. Now I have no lights it and no oil/temp working. Any ideas as to what to do, I have checked the fuse replaced the 4 amp with a 3 amp as thats all the autoshop had. would this make any difference, should I change all the globes again, they look ok when you pull them out. No fuses on the cluster itself I need to look at is there? Any feedback appreciated as I had it all working perfectly.
Cheers
Damian


Posted By: BackInBlack
Date Posted: 12-January-2011 at 3:16PM
Very helpful post!!   
 
Anyone know how to check and set the tachometer calibration?
 
My tach, when sitting in a normal position removed from car, reads about 500rpm for zero.   When I set the tach flat on a table on its back the needle reads 0.
 
I want to make sure this is calibrated before I put the dash back together with the restored gauges.
 
 


-------------
-John
1973 GTS


Posted By: BackInBlack
Date Posted: 24-April-2011 at 8:31AM
I have a problem with my dash lights and gauge lights, completely dead.   They used to work until I had the headliner replaced.  The installer shorted something out and blew out 2-3 fuses.   

I have since replaced fuses and replaced the headlight switch, thinking that the rherostat might have been blown.   Gauges work but the Instrument lights and the lights that shine over the knobs do not come on.   

Are there any other fuses or something I'm missing...

Thanks,
John


-------------
-John
1973 GTS


Posted By: lynchster
Date Posted: 24-April-2011 at 1:47PM
Originally posted by BackInBlack BackInBlack wrote:


Are there any other fuses or something I'm missing...

Thanks,
John
 
Brake lights working?


-------------
Chuck
72 Gran Torino Sport
91 F-150


Posted By: BackInBlack
Date Posted: 24-April-2011 at 2:02PM
Yup...brake lights, blinkers...etc everything else working.  Gear shift and interior floor and headliner lights work.

Just the dash lights.  No voltage to the dash bulbs.



-------------
-John
1973 GTS


Posted By: torkair
Date Posted: 07-May-2011 at 2:03PM
I'm wiring a 74 GT cluster into a 73 Sports roof car and need to know which wires need to be connected to each other for it to all work correctly.


-------------
72 Gran Torino "sport"- in progress

73 Ranchero GT- Q code-460/C6/3.25 open rear


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 08-May-2011 at 1:42AM
That's what this INFO thread is for. You are better off getting a '74 cluster. 

Worse case, Everything is there that you need to wire it from scratch if necessary. 


-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: GA Army Vet
Date Posted: 09-May-2011 at 5:10PM
I had the same issue this weekend, I forgot to change the fuse.

-------------
1973 GTS-351c C6 28sp axle 2.73gears (looking to change)



2004 electric wheelchair super fast!



Disabled Iraq Vet, IED boke my back and severed my nerves into my legs I can walk but it hurts bad.


Posted By: crispy23c
Date Posted: 19-June-2011 at 11:42AM
Anyone do anything besides putting in LEDs to brighten the cluster lighting?

-------------
Chris P. '73 GTS FastBack 351CJ-4V Triple black


"Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - Gen. John Stark


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 19-June-2011 at 11:47AM
Washing the interior of the cluster case helped a little.

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: 76 cougar
Date Posted: 19-June-2011 at 1:21PM
I wonder if you spray the inside with chrome paint if it would help.

-------------
76 one owner Factory 460/moonroof cougar
1950 ford 8N
97 jeep TJ



Posted By: BackInBlack
Date Posted: 19-June-2011 at 1:38PM
I restored the cluster except for having any silkscreen work done.

Careful cleaning with damp clothes, very low pressure on the air hose, and careful use of a swiffer duster.    I used Plastic headlamp polish on the gauge lens.   Carefully repainted the gauge needles with the correct fluorescent orange paint.   the only problem I had is the trip meter numbers blew off while blowing out the dust.  My car is from the desert and it is hell on interiors.   

All-in-all turned out nice.   

I just finished my interior.  Looks almost new now.   I'll post some pics on my car link soon.

Oh BTW I replaced all the bulbs in the dash and interior with LED bulbs.   Looks great.   Stock colors so it all looks original.    The best thing I like about the LED bulbs is the reduction of the heat and the fact that if I leave a dome light on it doesn't drain the battery, leaving me with a dead battery.




-------------
-John
1973 GTS


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 20-June-2011 at 6:04AM
I had done the swap to Blue LEDs on my cluster, removing the diffuser caps, but I had fought tooth and nail with my turn signal lights of all things.
I ended up keeping the 194 bulbs in the turn signal sockets.
Otherwise, no issues.
I took my cluster comletely apart, used a old toothbrush, and dish soap.
I had to clean my dash out before powertour, amazing how much body dust had settled in the dash that made things a mess. And keep in mind, my GTS was painted 2+ years ago.
 


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: occupant
Date Posted: 20-June-2011 at 7:22AM
Originally posted by 76 cougar 76 cougar wrote:

I wonder if you spray the inside with chrome paint if it would help.


That's what the 73-87 Chevy truck guys do. It works well if you tape everything right.

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/dashlights.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/dashlights.htm

This is on my to-do list but I'll be sourcing a better, non-crumbling, non-flaking, uncracked cluster to do it with. That and figure out why my lights don't work to begin with, which will be SO much easier in a garage.


Posted By: crispy23c
Date Posted: 20-June-2011 at 3:56PM
I blew out the whole gauge pack, cleaned every connection, blew out the cluster with air and careful cleaning with a microfiber cloth, selected best gauges... and the lighting is...meh.  Think I will replace with LEDs and be done with it.

-------------
Chris P. '73 GTS FastBack 351CJ-4V Triple black


"Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - Gen. John Stark


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 21-June-2011 at 5:53AM
Chris-
Night and day difference.
 
 
Makes a big difference early AM and also dusk.
 
I've had a fair amount of guys asking me locally, and any car/truck can benefit from an LED swap in the cluster.
For me, not that I would consider it a safety issue, but I sure like being able to see my cluster.
 


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: BackInBlack
Date Posted: 21-June-2011 at 8:26AM
Regarding the light intensity of the dash lights in the previous post...

I also found that I had to replace the headlight switch.  The old reostat (variable resistor) in the switch was loosing over 3Volts to the dash lights.   I replaced the switched and only dropped about 0.3Volts.

I bought my LED dash kit from  http://www.hipoparts.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.hipoparts.com/    They sell a complete kit with very nice instructions.   You can probably save $20 but you have to buy loose packs and will have extra left over.  I also bought the needle paint from them for about $2.50 (if my memory serves me.)  It was great talking to the guys there (i think his name was Bill).  He is a Ford guy and a cleveland engine fan.   I talked to him about cleveland engine builds for over 1.5 hours.   

I dont regret spending the little extra money.   The instructions were very helpful and well thought out.   I would buy from them again in a heart beat.   The kits came with all the error lamps, turn signals, dash lights....everything in the correct colors.   You can buy it as a blue led kit, but I chose the stock color that works with the diffuser caps in the instrument cluster.

Currently my tach isn't working correctly.  Its 500rpm to low and the clock doesn't work.   You can get those replaced at  http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/custom/" rel="nofollow - http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/custom/ .   Its a bit expensive.  they use the guts from a VDO gauge for the tach.  The did the gauge cluster for the PureVision Torino.

I figure if I have to spend that much money I might fabricate my own gauge cluster and use good gauges like Autometer, etc.   I'm undecided at this point and I rather spend the money on the rear differential at this point in time.

Hope this helps...The most difficult part of the gauge restoration is getting a "clear" cluster lens.  Most yellow badly and you can't buy replacements anywhere.

-John 


-------------
-John
1973 GTS


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 21-June-2011 at 12:48PM
I have a HiPoParts kit in my car as well. Works excellent. 

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: crispy23c
Date Posted: 22-June-2011 at 1:27PM
Andy & Paul, I ordered the HiPo gauge LEDs today, I probably won't have time to install this weekend, but I am pumped to actually be able to see my gauges clearly.  Thanks for the advice, I emailed them a question and they answered within 5 minutes today.  Good guys, too!!!
~Chris


-------------
Chris P. '73 GTS FastBack 351CJ-4V Triple black


"Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - Gen. John Stark


Posted By: 73sportAZ
Date Posted: 30-June-2011 at 2:25PM
CryPlease help, I have a 73 gran torino sport and am trying to upgrade the instrument cluster to the full set of gauges, I thought it would be sort of plug and play but I have quickly figured out this is not the case. I need a wiring diagram for the instruments. Does anyone know a site to get this info?

-------------
AZteacher1973GranTorinoSport


Posted By: smhj
Date Posted: 15-January-2012 at 10:36AM
Took my sports cluster off and half the bulbs are missing. Any know the the amps across the board?

-------------
73MONTEGO


Posted By: Ranchero Fan
Date Posted: 15-January-2012 at 10:43AM
Originally posted by 73sportAZ 73sportAZ wrote:

CryPlease help, I have a 73 gran torino sport and am trying to upgrade the instrument cluster to the full set of gauges, I thought it would be sort of plug and play but I have quickly figured out this is not the case. I need a wiring diagram for the instruments. Does anyone know a site to get this info?
  Search in the "HOW to SECTION" of this forum, there is a sticky there on this with diagrams. It should cover your ?'s

-------------
Brian   1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''


Posted By: Ranchero Fan
Date Posted: 15-January-2012 at 10:44AM
Oh, I forgot, Welcome to the site

-------------
Brian   1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 04-March-2012 at 7:21AM

I am going to start my project here in a few days...I am going to begin with gauge clusters and wiring first along with the fuel level sending unit.   I have a few questions before I begin.  I am replacing the original ,crumbling, standard cluster in my '76 with a '74-'76  gauge cluster  

Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Part 5:
Wiring:
For those that are retrofitting a gauge cluster into a standard dash car you need to change the oil pressure switch with an oil pressure sending unit and then install the tachometer and ammeter wiring above. The final item required is to tap off of your cigar lighter power feed (light blue / white stripe) for clock power.

I understand that it is not as simple as a "plug and play"...so lets make sure that All I will have to do, sans any unforeseen incidents is:

1) Change the oil pressure switch to an oil pressure sending unit.

2) Re-wire the tachometer and ammeter as per the illustrated text

3) Tap off of the lighter power feed for the clock.

Am I correct so far or did I leave something out?
  The fuel sending unit is in unknown condition...I know that the wires in the trunk area are damaged/cut.  My first goal is to get the cluster working properly before moving on the fuel sending unit.

  ANY input and/or help is ALWAYS appreciated and welcomed...and THANKS!!!    



-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 04-March-2012 at 9:26AM
That's pretty much it. The ammeter harness is the hard part, IMO. 

If it were me, starting from scratch (I did), I'd have the ammeter converted to a voltmeter and bypass all that ammeter nonsense.



-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: foote500
Date Posted: 04-March-2012 at 9:53AM
I love that wood burl look-I sold one to someone on here-now I wish I had kept it.


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 04-March-2012 at 10:48AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

That's pretty much it. The ammeter harness is the hard part, IMO. 

If it were me, starting from scratch (I did), I'd have the ammeter converted to a voltmeter and bypass all that ammeter nonsense.

Thats makes a lot of sense to me as well....is there a voltmeter that could be used as a direct replacement of the ammeter that is readily available?


-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 04-March-2012 at 10:54AM
Rocket Man can do it

http://www.rccinnovations.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.rccinnovations.com/

He does the conversion, I think it was $40


-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 04-March-2012 at 1:28PM
THANK YOU Psquare75!!! Big smile  That is exactly what I will do.   Is there any suggested positive wire that I should tap into or just find one that is ignition switch controlled on/off to advoid draining the battery.  

-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 04-March-2012 at 9:37PM
When I got the gauge from him, he did send a sheet with a small wiring diagram.. but I think I just did as you said, found a wire that was 12v with key on and accessory.. Not the gauge cluster power wire, however. I can't recall what I used, maybe the wiper power wire. Been awhile.

I have had two gauges completed by RCC. I don't know if he offers a face for the 72-76 gauge, (He focuses on Cougars and 73-79 F100) but to be honest, his gauge conversion puts 12 volts at "0" on the ammeter. The face isn't that important, but a nice touch. I'd contact him. He does very good work. He takes a small voltmeter and adapts the OEM face and needle to it.


-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: unlovedford
Date Posted: 05-March-2012 at 1:54AM
Great info. I, too, am converting from standard gauges to the Sport gauges and will need this!

I have another question: I bought a complete set of Sport gauges without the white cluster holder - pod? - (for lack of a better term) or in other words, each gauge is individual and sitting in a box. They were pulled out of a lady's car years ago by her son when it was smashed by a tree in a storm (33K miles). The guy is now older and could not remember the year of the car. Being that these are individual gauges, will it make any difference what year pod I install them in? Mint condition and it would be a shame to waste them.

-------------
Joe
1972 GTSquire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino       
1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous
Popeye and Brutus (Rams)


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 07-March-2012 at 10:52AM
Not sure. I'd match it up to what tach you have.

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 21-April-2012 at 12:56PM
I got around to replacing the stock dash cluster (the white plastic part was so brittle it was breaking from it's own weight) with the appropriate sport cluster...I have one question....should I also replace the temp. switch with a temp. sending unit since I am changing over from warning lights to gauges?  I noticed that the temp. gauge was all the way over to the "H" even though the engine is cool. 

-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 21-April-2012 at 1:26PM
If memory serves, doesn't the base model non sport cluster have a gauge for temp?

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: occupant
Date Posted: 21-April-2012 at 2:30PM
Yes, fuel-speed-temp, odometer, turn signal indicators, and some idiot lights, that's all you get with the 3-hole base cluster. Clock was optional in the extra hole on the right but it doesn't affect the rest of the cluster.


Posted By: Ranchero Fan
Date Posted: 21-April-2012 at 2:40PM
Originally posted by Zebra 3 Zebra 3 wrote:

I got around to replacing the stock dash cluster (the white plastic part was so brittle it was breaking from it's own weight) with the appropriate sport cluster...I have one question....should I also replace the temp. switch with a temp. sending unit since I am changing over from warning lights to gauges?  I noticed that the temp. gauge was all the way over to the "H" even though the engine is cool. 
The only sending unit that has to be changed when you convert to the optional gauge cluster, is the oil pressure sender. Did the temp gauge work with the standard cluster? If it did, then you may have an open wire, bad gauge, or the sender coincidently went bad. Try the simple things first. Sorry that's all I have.

-------------
Brian   1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 22-April-2012 at 4:27AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

If memory serves, doesn't the base model non sport cluster have a gauge for temp?
  YES it doesEmbarrassed ...my bad... I should have paid closer attention to detail. 


-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 28-June-2012 at 4:34PM
Originally posted by neejah neejah wrote:

For posterity (fitting a '74/'76 cluster into a '72) -

Pin PCB Connections ('74-'76) Car ('72)
Purple/White (Brake) Purple/White
2 Red/White (Eng Temp) Red/White
3 Blue/Red (Illumination) Blue/Red
4 Black (-ve supply)
5 White/Blue (Right Turn Ind) White/Blue
6 Green/White (Left Turn Ind) Green/White
7 Green/Black (High Beam Ind) Green/Black
8 Black - Don't Splice (+12v) Black - Don't Splice (+12v)
9 Yellow/White (Oil Pressure) White/Red
10 White/Red (Fuel) Yellow/White
11 Green/Red (No connection on PCB) Green/Red
12 Yellow/White (Top RH Warning Lamp)
13 Green (Btm RH Warning Lamp)
14 Red/Yellow Dash (-ve) Red/Yellow Dash (under hood conn.)

Notes: Pin 14 & Pin 4 I routed to a new ground - the harness for pin 14 terminated in an underhood connection which didn't go anywhere.
Pins 12 & 13 I haven't connected at the minute - I might use them for a shift light at some point in the future.......didn't really care about the fasten seat belt warning!

Hopefully it might help someone in future.........

Neil
    Yes, this has been a huge help for me!Big smile......but I have a couple of corrections for the printed circuit board (D4GF 10C956 BA) 1974,1975, some 1976.....

I am doing a retrofit of the instrument panel circuitry on my '76 (born on date 4-9-76)

#9 Pin circuitry goes to the - (ground) side of the fuel gauge

#10 Pin circuitry goes to the -(ground) side of the oil pressure gauge

#12 Pin circuitry    there is an aprox. 1/4 break in the circuit on the PCB next to the plug in terminal block...I checked 2ea. D4GF 10C956 BA PCB's and the break is the same and in the same spot. The #12 circuit is the + (positive) for the Parking Brake light bulb...located in the top Right hand location of the instrument cluster.

This one has me baffled...there is no other power source for the light bulb ( looking at the PCB) yet this light and the one below it (seat belts) share the same common ground circuit.

#14 Pin circuitry goes to the - (ground) side of the brake warning light (pressure),parking break light and seat belt light



-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 29-June-2012 at 2:45AM
I can't speak for the early cars, but the 77+ cars, the top right light is "Door Ajar" and it's a stand alone bulb/harness/socket that snaps into the hole. 

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 01-July-2012 at 4:20PM

This is the wiring information for the STANDARD instrument cluster (warning lights w/ Fuel and Temp. gauges) The pin numbers corresponds with the numbers on the terminal block that plugs into the printed circuit board (part # D6OF-10C956) I used the terminal block from my Torino (born on date 4-9-76)

This information should prove to be valuable for those who are converting from a standard cluster to sport cluster ('74-'75-some '76) OR trouble shooting the standard PCB. '74-'75-some '76

LOCATION     COLOR(S)                               CIRCUIT INFORMATION

PIN 1 Red w/ Yellow hatched marks        ground side (-) of brake (pressure) & oil pressure light socket

PIN 2 Green w/ Yellow stripes                                           positive side (+) of fasten belt light socket

PIN 3 Light Blue w/ Red stripe                                             positive side (+) of the dash light sockets

PIN 4 Black                  ground side (-) of the dash,fasten belt,high beam and turn signal light sockets

PIN 5 White w/ Light Blue stripe                         positive side (+) of the Right turn signal light socket

PIN 6 Light Green w/ White stripe                         positive side (+) of the Left turn signal light socket

PIN 7 Light Green w/ Black stripe                                positive side (+) of the High Beam light socket

PIN 8 2 EA. wires Black      positive side input (female connection on PCB) instrument cluster voltage

                                        regulator       

PIN 9 Yellow w/ White stripe                                                                  ground side (-) of fuel gauge

PIN 10 Light Green w/ Red stripe                 Pin's 10 and 11 both go to the alternator light socket.

PIN 11 2 EA. wires #1 Dark Green               The measurement between pin's 10 and 11 is in Amps.
           #2 Gray w/Yellow stripe                   The light is part of the curciut "loop' between pins 10&11  

 

PIN 12   Red w/ White Stripe                                               ground side (-) of the temperature gauge

PIN 13   White w/ Red stripe                                         ground side (-) of the oil pressure light socket

PIN 14   Purple w/ White stripe                            positive side (+) of the Brake (pressure) light socket

Unlike the sport cluster, there is no circuitry for the parking brake light with the standard cluster PCB

 

       

                                                                

 

 

                                                                                                        

 

                                         .

                                                             

                                                               

                                 

 

 



-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 01-July-2012 at 4:46PM
This is the wiring information for the sport instrument cluster. The pin numbers corresponds with the numbers on the terminal block that plugs into the printed circuit board (part # D4GF-10C956)

This information should prove to be valuable for those who are converting from a standard cluster to sport cluster ('74-'75-some '76) OR trouble shooting the sport cluster PCB. '74-'75-some '76

LOCATION                         CIRCUIT INFORMATION

PIN 1                      positive side (+) brake (pressure) light socket

PIN 2                     ground side (-) temperature gauge

PIN 3                      positive side (+) dash light sockets

PIN 4                     ground side (-) all light sockets except parking brake and fasten belt

PIN 5                     positive side (+) Right turn signal light socket

PIN 6                     positive side (+) Left turn signal light socket

PIN 7                     positive side (+) high beam light socket

PIN 8                    positive side input (female connection on PCB) instrument cluster voltage regulator

PIN 9                    ground side (-) fuel gauge

PIN 10                  ground side (-) oil pressure gauge

PIN 11                  NOT USED...NO CIRCUIT ON PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD

PIN 12                  positive side (+) parking brake light socket

PIN 13                  positive side (+) fasten belt light socket

PIN 14                  ground side (-) brake (pressure),parking brake and fasten belt light socket



-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 9:24AM
This is excellent info, but I am afraid I am a bit confused. So here's my dilemma I purchased a 1977 sport dash for my 1975 gran Torino. I plugged it in and everything seemed to work until I seen my fuel gauge go to 3/4 and the temp gauge went completely to the right - passing behind hot. As for the tach and amp gauge I already assumed I would be rewriting those two .... Can anyone help me here? The guy I bought it from is willing to accept the return but he doesn't have a 1975 / 6 dash and I would really hate to send it back if I can still use it.........any assistance would be greatly appreciated

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Robbdtme
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 11:15AM
Just need to do a little rewiring as 75 to77 has a few differences. The wiring connector pinouts are posted here look at the 75-76 for wires and the 77-79 for dash connections.  Can then cut and splice a few wires to get it correctly working. I did that in the past for a 75 dash in a 72.


Posted By: Robbdtme
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 11:17AM
I can also help you make a ammeter setup for it. Pretty easy to get it working correctly with a few wires.


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 11:24AM
Guess that's where I am a little concerned - forgive my ignorance but my 75 is unmolested and although I don't mind doing this I don't want to hack it all too he** and back. So my question is - do I cut my 75 harness and match the wire colors to the 77? Is there anything I have to do on the engine side? Or is this all at the clip and the circut board.   Also if you can help Witt the ammeter that would be great I always have an issue doing those

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 12:34PM
Ok I am really confused now I took my dash cluster out and followed the wire comparison on the 75 / 77 illustrations all of my wires on my harness match those of 77-79 except for pin #12 I only have a gray wire with yellow stripe.   The other weird thing is I tested the cluster all the lights work - turn signals work - high beam work -hell if the key buzzer works now...lol. The only problem I am having is the temp and fuel.......any suggestions?

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Robbdtme
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 12:40PM
You only need to cut a few wires so it really is not a butcher job once finished. Also I think a member here had a 76 dash for 65 bucks posted awhile back.

I never tried it but let me look at the wiring closer another possibility may be to take the dash apart and move a few gauges around to correct it. I will look into that.

If you look at the pics of these you will notice the gauge positions are different from 76 and earlier and 77 later.

Did you start the motor? Otherwise the one that went to max reading would be your oil pressure. It went to max because the oil light would have been lit. The oil sender will need to be changed once the wiring i done or good pressure reads 0 and bad no pressure will read 90. Temp sender is the same and will be fine.



Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 12:52PM
Yep started the engine all seem to be working fine except fuel and temp - i just tested the tach 3 wire + - and negative coil...works great I am thinking maybe gas and temp need swapped if I can figure out the wires I would just swap them it's easier

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 1:04PM
DO NOT GO CUTTING WIRES.....THERE IS A BETTER WAY!!!

I am getting ready to post a "how to" reference retro fitting the printed circuit board. The how to will cover the stock to sports cluster conversion for the '74-'75 and some '76 instrument clusters AND a how to make your own circuit board if your original is junk...

Before you do ANYTHING else CAFE FULLY remove the Printed Circuit Board OR position it so that you can trace the circuits....the PCB is like a road map...if you know what number on the wiring terminal block goes to what(turn signals,dash lights, ground, gauges etc., etc.) then that number should go to what ever light or gauge in the cluster....such as the problem with the fuel and temp having wrong readings ( assuming the PCB is in tact and proper connects for the temp. and fuel gauges)

If you need to move/switch a wire...with out cutting...here is how it is done. 

Here are some pictures from the up coming "how to" that should be of some help.

This is the wiring terminal block that plugs into the printed circuit board (PCB) ...note the Red piece in the center portion of the terminal block.

Using a small tool, such a small knife blade or pick (pictured) gently pry the Red piece from the terminal block. Once the piece is removed use the same tool to push down on the small plastic piece that holds the metal pin in the terminal block...pull gently on the wire until the wire and pin are free of the wire terminal block.

Once the wires have been switched, gently push the wire back into the terminal block until it catches/stops. Gently push the Red piece back into position.



-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 1:18PM
Excellent idea - actually my 75 cluster is in mint condition so I can put the two side to side and see which way the road is going it appears on 75 pin #2 is for the temp gauge the other goes the ground on the circut board the fuel looks like is goes to pin #9 with the other going to ground

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 2:06PM
....Keep in mind that the fuel, oil, and temp. gauges share a common positive(+) circuit going to the output side (positive) of the instrument cluster voltage regulator....the little box piece with the PCB folded over the top of it and snapped in place. The three individual circuits(- ground) coming from the three gauges go to three different positions on the terminal block respectfully.

-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 2:10PM
Ok I will have to wait for your retro fit - so far I pulled pin#12 and that seems to be the temp gauge wire on the diagram posted it shows 12 is a ground mine seems to be hot....in any case I will sleep on this and hope to see something posted in the am

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 2:16PM
.....I will start posting the "How To" this up coming weekend (7-14, 7-15).....finishing up the "trial & error" testing as we speak...so far so goodBig smile   will be editing pictures and putting some text together Fri. evening after work.

-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 2:34PM
Originally posted by Srandaz2 Srandaz2 wrote:

Excellent idea - actually my 75 cluster is in mint condition so I can put the two side to side and see which way the road is going it appears on 75 pin #2 is for the temp gauge the other goes the ground on the circut board the fuel looks like is goes to pin #9 with the other going to ground
   sounds like your 75 cluster is the Sport cluster....dont get it confused with the standard cluster...they have different curcuitry.  Just F.Y.I:
#2 pin goes to the ground (-) side of the temp. gauge
#9 pin goes to the ground (-) side of the fuel gauge
 
Originally posted by Srandaz2 Srandaz2 wrote:

....................... so far I pulled pin#12 and that seems to be the temp gauge wire on the diagram posted it shows 12 is a ground mine seems to be hot...........
#12 pin goes to the positive (+) side of the parking brake light socket (sport cluster only...standard cluster and/or base Torino has no parking brake light switch/curcuitry)


-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 2:44PM
That's what I posted earlier if I went off the diagram for the 77 wiring harnes as is posted the one in my car is exactly the same except for one pin - when I plug this 77 sport dsh in everything works except for gas and temp.....I know this is a is,ple fix.... Xjust have to find the two wires too swap

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 4:20PM
O.K I am with you nowEmbarrassed had to go back and re-read.....Try this...go back and take a look at the printed circuit connectors and the pin outs that Paul (Psquare75) posted for the '74-'75 and some '76 AND the some '76 and '77-'79
Judging by the colors of the wires , Ford switched some of the circuits around....assuming that a White w/ Red stripe wire from a '76 serves the same purpose as a White w/ Red stripe wire in a '77 (in this case the White w/ Red stripe wire, at least in a '76, is the ground side of the oil pressure switch) So getting your '77 to match a '76 assuming that the colors remained the same (SOME ONE CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG HERE) involves switching 7 wires:

On the '76 terminal block the fallowing wires/pins will need to be moved/switched to work w/ your '77 cluster:

#1 on the terminal block moves to #14 (should be the positive side (+) of the brake [pressure] light socket)

#2 moves to #13 (should be the positive side (+) of the fasten belt light socket)

#'s 3 thru 9 stay in their positions

#10 on the terminal block moves to #11 (should be for the alternator.....pins 10 & 11 on the '76 are

#11 move to #12                                   part of the curcuit "loop".... on your '77 it's pins 11& 12)

 

#12 move to # 2 (should be ground (-) side for the temp. gauge)

#13 move to #10 (should be ground (-) side for the oil pressure gauge)

#14 move to#1 (should be ground (-) side for brake [pressure],parking brake and fasten belt light socket)



-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 12-July-2012 at 4:29PM
Thats what i was looking for - Only thing is I Currently have a 1975 G-Torino Cluster and trying to put in a 1977 - Based on what you are showing me below - I am assuming it doesnt matter (75 or 76) I just need to match the wires as indicated in Pauls Post.  Wacko

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 13-July-2012 at 1:00AM
Originally posted by Zebra 3 Zebra 3 wrote:

O.K I am with you nowEmbarrassed had to go back and re-read.....On the '76 terminal block the fallowing wires/pins will need to be moved/switched to work w/ your '77 cluster:

#10 on the terminal block moves to #11 (should be for the alternator.....pins 10 & 11 on the '76 are

#11 move to #12                                   part of the curcuit "loop".... on your '77 it's pins 11& 12)

 

  If you have a Sport cluster, disregard the alternator reference since you have an Ampmeter....the alternator reference is for the standard cluster.  Also the #13 move to #10 is NOT oil pressure.  The information should read as follows:
 
#10 on the terminal block moves to # 11 (should be the ground (-) for the oil pressure gauge)
#11 moves to #12 ( you will have to tell us what that is on the '77...on the '76 it goes no where)
#13 move to #10 (should be positive side (+) seat belt light socket 


-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 13-July-2012 at 4:00AM
So So close - ok so far I rewired my terminal block to match the 77 cluster - everything is working lights, signal lists high beam temp gauge, however as soon as I plug the fuel wire into the pin the temp gauge goes past normal and the gas gauge goes beyond full. now if I unplug the temp gauge the fuel gauge works fine, and vice versa, when I try these together it goes too sh%%%% - what am I missing.........

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 13-July-2012 at 1:29PM

I humbly apologize for any and all confusion.....the inability to self edit and delete post after a few minutes has me pissed offAngry.....I belong to numerous forums...this is the ONLY one that allows you a very small window of opportunity to correct any mistakes such as spelling, grammar and more importantly pertinent information that others are counting on to be concise and correct. I realize that this is not an issue with everyone, but I am one of those types that tends to leave something out (forgetfulness) or after reading it a few times decides that it could be re worded to make more common sense.

Part of the confusion on my part is that I don't have a '77-'79 PCB...I am relying on the information that Paul (Psquare75) has posted, plus what information is provided in the post. I admit, I made a mistake with some of my notes that I had taken and tried to transcribe to the forum...I am dealing with a standard to Sport cluster conversion and retrofit here with my own Torino and my note taking abilities leaves some to be desired.Embarrassed

I have proofread the following information to the point that I can almost recite it verbatim. To the best of my knowledge it is correct according to what information has been provided in these forums and what I have been able to find elsewhere.(manuals,other sites, etc.etc.)

This is a '76 plug in terminal block to '77 Printed Circuit Board conversion. The numbers on the far Left correspond with the numbers on the '76 plug in terminal block. To the Right of the numbers is the wire colors. To the Right of the wire colors is to what light(s) or gauge the circuit goes to (according to the '74-'75 and some '76 PCB that I have). To the Right of that is the conversion information.

#1 Red w/ Yellow hash positive (+) Brake [pressure] light socket move '76 #1 to '77 #14

#2 Light Green ground (-) Temperature gauge move '76 #2 to '77 #13

#3 Light Blue w/ Red Stripe (+) positive dash light sockets don't move

#4 Black ground (-) dash ,turn signal, fasten belt and high beam light sockets don't move

#5 White w/Light Blue strips (+) positive Right turn signal light socket don't move

#6 Light Green w/ White stripe (+) positive Left turn signal light socket don't move

#7 Light Green w/ Black Stripe (+) positive high beam light socket don't move

#8 Black w/ light Green hash (+) positive input instrument cluster voltage regulator don't move

#9 Yellow w/ White stripe ground (-) fuel gauge don't move

#10 Light Green w/ Red stripe (-) ground oil pressure move '76 #10 to '77 #11

#11 Gray w/ Yellow stripe No circuit on the '76 PCB unknown information ref: '77-'79 PCB move '76 #11 to '77 #12

#12 Red w/ White stripe circuit w/ break on the '76 PCB unknown information ref: '77-'79 PCB move '76#12 to '77 #2

#13 White w/ Red stripe (+) positive fasten belt light socket move '76 # 13 to '77 #10

#14 Purple w/ White stripe ground (-) brake (pressure),parking brake and fasten belt light sockets move '76 # 14 to "77 #1



-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 13-July-2012 at 1:47PM
I appreciate everything posted - But i took defeat this morning and put my standard cluster back in - I also noticed that the the PCB has some cuts / breaks in the roadways - (Guess I should have examined it alot better before buying it) So i dont know if this is fixable or i should just sell it as a donor - Beleive Me I am 100% sure all the gauges work - so i am almost sure someone could use it.  Unless it can be fixed but who knows

-------------
Steve


Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 13-July-2012 at 2:21PM
YES!!! it is fixable to better than original standards!!!   The "how to" that I am putting together will show how hard wire your own board....In my honest opinion a much better way than the flimsy,weak PCB that Ford-Lincoln-Mercury used for almost 20 years!

-------------
"I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had.
Henry Ford. 1926
Brian Conn
'76 Torino


Posted By: Srandaz2
Date Posted: 13-July-2012 at 2:33PM

Then I will patiently wait for the post - thanks again -

Do you have a S&H Torino? Just curious?



-------------
Steve


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 14-July-2012 at 10:59AM
i think i'll end up doing a 'point to point wiring job on whatever i decide to use for a dash display, mine came with the base cluster, i have maybe a couple GT clusters but will probably do something custom. here's an example of 'point to point' in a guitar amp, no PCB's here but they did get through warranty & then some 
 


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72 GT Ute
   


Posted By: philou
Date Posted: 14-November-2012 at 10:50AM
hi all
i'm french and own a 78 ford ranchero.the instrument cluster is the same than torino.my pcb is burned,and i have to put another fuel level gauge(autometer 73 ohms to 10 ohms)i'ld like to know which wires to remove from the pcb 14 pins connector for the new fuel level gauge.thanks in advanceSmile


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tomorrow is another day


Posted By: philou
Date Posted: 14-November-2012 at 8:30PM
nobody can help me?i think to make a custom instrument cluster without pcb,only wires with autometer gauges.i have to learn which wires fit on which gauge.for the turn signals,it is not a problem,i have a controler,but for the other i'm lost.last question,with autometer gauges,do i need the voltage regulator?thanksSmile

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tomorrow is another day


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 15-November-2012 at 10:11AM
if you are going to use Autometer mechanical gauges then you would not need the factory Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator (ICVR)
 
what about the fuel level gauge ?


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72 GT Ute
   


Posted By: philou
Date Posted: 15-November-2012 at 11:17AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

if you are going to use Autometer mechanical gauges then you would not need the factory Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator (ICVR)
 
what about the fuel level gauge ?
i need to know which wires to remove of the 14 pins connector,and to connect to the new fuel level gauge.i've found a problem today.a few weeks ago,i made a mistake.i've connected the ammeter connectors on the oem fuel level gauge.i saw that the cluster voltage regulator was hot,and 30 mn later,it was cold.this afternoon,i tried to connect my instrument cluster,and the fuel gauge works,but the gas tank is empty,only 15 liters in it,and my fuel level gauge indicates that it is half full.i think the voltage regulator is dead,and 12 volts arrive at the gauge,and this gauge is wrong.is it possible?before i removed my cluster,the fuel level worked.Confusedthe burned place on the pcb is only for the oil pressure,and it is not a problem,i have sunpro gauges for water and oilLOL

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tomorrow is another day


Posted By: philou
Date Posted: 16-November-2012 at 12:19AM

good news,i have an old instrument cluster removed from a 75 ranchero,i've changed my voltage regulator with the one on the old cluster,and now my fuel level gauge works great.i'm glad,i was right,my volt regul was destroyed and there were too much voltage on my fuel gauge.thanks again for your great helpThumbs Up



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tomorrow is another day


Posted By: JoeKarasinski
Date Posted: 31-March-2013 at 2:54AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Part 5:

Ammeter: To properly install the wiring for the ammeter you need an insulator junction block, one or two (recommended) 14 Gauge fusible links, 30-36 inches of yellow 10 gauge primary wire, and yellow and red 14 gauge primary wire (approximately 12' of each). Install the insulated junction block on the flat boss under the starter solenoid, take the original primary wiring off of the starter solenoid and attach to the insulated junction block, then install the shunt per the diagram below:



 
junction block, Do you mean some thing like this?
And from this picture you show a yellow "original wiring" coming from the junction block.
 
I'm really not getting this. Cry


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 31-March-2013 at 5:56PM
Yes, something like that. 

And you should have a yellow wire somewhere.. I think it powers the entire car.




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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: JoeKarasinski
Date Posted: 01-April-2013 at 1:41AM
OK, so this yellow wire would be connected to the battery side of the selinoid now and I need to move it to the junction block to make this all work?
 
Thank you!


Posted By: rrlcommish
Date Posted: 06-May-2013 at 3:15PM
Question...I am converting my '72 from standard to sport cluster.  This thread is awesome.  But I don't see much discussion about the actual harnesses.  My old standard harness is pretty rotten, and I worry that if I would buy a used one off eBay or whatever, that it would also have a lot of rot and need rebuilding.  So, has anyone tried this Painless Wiring website?  They supposedly have one:
 
http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=10123" rel="nofollow - http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=10123
 
Has anyone used this?  Or is this a bad idea?  It IS expensive, I'll say that.  Any thoughts or suggestions?


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1972 Gran Torino Sport Fastback, 351C - 2V, Lt Blue, Pertronix Ignitor, dual exhaust with Turbo mufflers, otherwise stock


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 06-May-2013 at 4:48PM
I have not used one, but I will say in general that Painless makes good products, and the fact that it is geared specifically for Fords of this genre then it should be a reasonable thing to get. If you are comfortable with circuits, electrical troubleshooting and wire connection/splicing methods, then I would recommend it.

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Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: zjosh
Date Posted: 27-August-2013 at 3:55PM
do you know the measurements of these openings for the 74 gauges?


Posted By: carguy47
Date Posted: 28-August-2013 at 1:37PM
Philou,
search through the forum and there is a wiring diagram for you to review and identify which wires from the pin connector to replace. Short of that, your guess is as good as mine


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You have to build em to drive em!


Posted By: zjosh
Date Posted: 29-August-2013 at 2:03AM

This photo shows the difference between the '72 and '73 Gauge Cover and the later year covers:

Does anyone the dimension of the gauge opening on the gauge cover for the 74 Torino?


Posted By: mkshelton
Date Posted: 26-July-2014 at 5:52PM
What can I do if I'm trying to replace my 76 standard cluster with an older standard cluster? Am I SOL?

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"Sometimes I wonder if I'm actually UNinventing the wheel"


Posted By: mkshelton
Date Posted: 26-July-2014 at 5:55PM
The code on the back of my replacement says 72 and it matches the pic that was posted so I'm p pretty sure it's from a 72.

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"Sometimes I wonder if I'm actually UNinventing the wheel"


Posted By: californiajohnny
Date Posted: 26-July-2014 at 6:50PM
according to pg 1 of this thread 72-73 had 12 pin connectors and 74-79 had 14 pin connectors, so it's not looking to good for your swap, unless you had the 12 pin connector with several inches of the wires to splice onto your harness, but with all that work i'd just swap your std. for a sport cluster that's what i did. i had to change 2 or 3 wires into different pin locations and wire the tach and that heavy shunt wire, but it all worked out great


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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION


Posted By: mkshelton
Date Posted: 26-July-2014 at 7:11PM
Yeah I found that out. My existing harness is bigger. I already have an aftermarket 3 gauge kit installed in the lower dash so what if hook up the appropriate wires directly to the fuel gauge and lights? is that workable?

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"Sometimes I wonder if I'm actually UNinventing the wheel"


Posted By: californiajohnny
Date Posted: 26-July-2014 at 7:34PM
you could do that, just trace down the printed circuit to the pin in the connector one at a time so you know which wire connects to which stud on the back of that stock gauge.
whats wrong with you 76 cluster? i have my std. 74 cluster still, it's now a "parts cluster"


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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION



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