Print Page | Close Window

INFO: 1972-1979 Body Insulator Bushings - UPDATED

Printed From: The Ford Torino Page
Category: Model Specific Forum
Forum Name: 1972-1976 Ford and Mercury
Forum Description: Technical discussion for 1972-1976 Ford and Mercury
URL: http://forum.grantorinosport.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=4285
Printed Date: 13-November-2019 at 3:06AM
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: INFO: 1972-1979 Body Insulator Bushings - UPDATED
Posted By: 73GTS
Subject: INFO: 1972-1979 Body Insulator Bushings - UPDATED
Date Posted: 20-September-2010 at 1:42PM
Big smileI HAVE FINALLY COME UP WITH THE PERFECT MOUNT.

Follow this topic and then read my conclusion!
http://forum.grantorinosport.org/info-1972-1979-body-insulator-bushings_topic2935.html - http://forum.grantorinosport.org/info-1972-1979-body-insulator-bushings_topic2935.html

CONCLUSION:
OK, here it is.........................

Buy 10 body mounts for a 2003 - 2009 Ford Crown Victoria with a 2006 part number.
THE PART NO's. ARE (UPPER MOUNT)6W1Z-5400396-A AND (LOWER) 6W1Z-5C155-AA. YOU CAN ORDER THESE PARTS WHOLESALE THRU BOB UTTER FORD OUT OF TEXAS.

Take the center "tube" (shiny one) and cut it down with a tube cutter to 1 1/4". The ugly one is the old one for comparison.


Here is a pic of it cut.



Don't forget to dress on the grinder.

This is why you have to cut the tube...........

The new one on the left is too fat between the body and frame. This will change after you cut the tube.

This is it in the frame and at stock height.

The best part as you can see is I am able to reuse the original bolts. Just clean up and coat with Loctite.

Next..........I will find a solution to the 2 core support mounts.

Stay tuned WinkBig smile


-------------
Jim





Replies:
Posted By: lynchster
Date Posted: 20-September-2010 at 1:47PM
Good deal. Thanks for the knowledge.
 
Chuck


-------------
Chuck
72 Gran Torino Sport
91 F-150


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 20-September-2010 at 2:20PM
Genius! I look forward to seeing the rad support mounts.

What is the cost on these, roughly?


-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 20-September-2010 at 4:05PM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

What is the cost on these, roughly?

$10.68 top (6W1Z-5400396-A) & $9.44 bottom ( 6W1Z-5C155-AA) x 10 mounts = $201.20 Westway Ford Parts Department.

http://www.genuinefordparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=215006 - http://www.genuinefordparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=215006

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=213787 - http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=213787
 
I know Bob Utter Ford has them, but they're cheapest at Westway Ford Parts Department Wink 
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213787 - http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213787
http://www.genuinefordparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215006 - http://www.genuinefordparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215006


-------------
Jim




Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 20-September-2010 at 5:11PM
Nicely done there Jim.



-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 21-September-2010 at 2:13AM
do you need to trim down the rubber part of the mount as well?

-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 21-September-2010 at 2:22PM
Originally posted by cowboyupdjcarl cowboyupdjcarl wrote:

do you need to trim down the rubber part of the mount as well?

Nope. When you tighten it down, it squooshes to a perfect fit.Wink


-------------
Jim




Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 27-September-2010 at 3:10AM
Are these installed in your car now?

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 27-September-2010 at 11:29AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Are these installed in your car now?

Body won't be back on the frame until atleast next summer.


-------------
Jim




Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 27-September-2010 at 11:57AM
....... I really don't want to have to be the first one to do before and after pics. 

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 27-September-2010 at 1:06PM
This is the mount on the frame and it is completely tight as if bolted
to the body. You will notice the big washer that I used under the nut
in place of the body. It is the exact size as original. I guess this is the 
before shot. I can't do the after shot 'til later down the road.Approve

 





-------------
Jim




Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 27-September-2010 at 1:17PM
We need rad support bushings, as well.. I spoke with Andy, he said what he used collapsed over the years. 

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 27-September-2010 at 1:40PM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

We need rad support bushings, as well.. I spoke with Andy, he said what he used collapsed over the years. 

I'm working on that. Will post when I find something acceptable.Wink


-------------
Jim




Posted By: Ron Earp
Date Posted: 14-December-2010 at 4:32AM
Thanks much for posting this info. My body is due back next week and we'll be putting these to use!

-------------
04 Ford Lightning
72 GTS BB Stroker & Toploader
98 Mustang ITS SCCA #38
08 Buell Ulysses
http://www.gt40s.com" rel="nofollow - GT40s.com


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 14-December-2010 at 5:28AM
Dumb question here...
Can you do a side by side pic of the new and old one MOUNTED like the pic of the new one you have?


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Ron Earp
Date Posted: 14-December-2010 at 5:31AM
Maybe. Have to wait for the new ones to arrive.  And, bear in mind my old ones were original and I don't recall any of them coming out of the car that seemed to not be deformed all the hell.

-------------
04 Ford Lightning
72 GTS BB Stroker & Toploader
98 Mustang ITS SCCA #38
08 Buell Ulysses
http://www.gt40s.com" rel="nofollow - GT40s.com


Posted By: iangj
Date Posted: 14-December-2010 at 8:06AM
I have a few good original ones so when the Crown Vic ones arrive I can take a side-by-side for you.

-------------
Ian Glyn-Jones
Fonthill, Ontario, Canada


Montego GT Registry
Forum; http://mmgt.forumchitchat.com/


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 16-December-2010 at 2:34PM
This thread should be a sticky also and put under the first thread.......

1972 - 1979 Body Insulator BushingsWink


PLEASESmile


-------------
Jim




Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 16-December-2010 at 6:27PM
Without reading 4 pages.. Why do we have TWO threads about body insulator bushings? Ermm

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 17-December-2010 at 2:24AM

Someone started a new thread instead of adding on to the original one.

From what I have seen on THIS thread... seems to be the perfect new body mount option that is readily available.


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: iangj
Date Posted: 17-December-2010 at 6:40AM
OK, I just got them today. Shorten up the steel part like Jim said and you're good to go!!
First pic shows the original one at the left (2 parts) with the new one (bottom only) to the right

2nd pic shows the new one (bottom only) on the left and an old CV one beside it (both parts)

3rd pic is looking down at all of them.


-------------
Ian Glyn-Jones
Fonthill, Ontario, Canada


Montego GT Registry
Forum; http://mmgt.forumchitchat.com/


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 17-December-2010 at 12:02PM
So stock it is fatter/taller than the original Torino bushing, cut the center like showed and it will be same height as stock Torino.
 
How much FATTER does it get after it is torqued down compared to the original Torino?
Will the extra fattness cause an issue anywhere? Like inside the frame rail rubbing the sides causing premature failure?
 
Other premature failure question is... if we SQUISH it further than it was intended will it cause premature failure or splitting?
 
Can you cut down the new bushing to Torino height same as the center sleeve to make it SQUISH OUT less to make it work better?
 
I guess asking about OVER tension on the rubber it is not designed to handle?


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 17-December-2010 at 1:28PM
It isn't "squished" to the point I would worry. It's my 
opinion that using this new mount this way should 
work perfectly. And the best part is you can use the
old bolts.
As far as all your questions cowboy, I don't know if any
one could answer accurately. I know this is what I plan
to do with no worries. 
The body is supported to the frame by the rubber bushing, 
and this way, will reduce body roll over the stock bushings 
but be a little softer than the poly bushings. Sounds like a 
win - win to me. Which is good.


-------------
Jim




Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 17-December-2010 at 2:18PM
Thanks Jim!
 
PM sent on another subject.


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Ron Earp
Date Posted: 30-December-2010 at 3:12PM
We'll know real soon. I bought the bushings as described and cut the metal tube to the 1.25" height. Have them lined up for the body install in the next few days. Sorry the picture didn't work too well. I've got ten of them out on the body held in place with some extremely light and tacky glue to ease installation.

Ron



-------------
04 Ford Lightning
72 GTS BB Stroker & Toploader
98 Mustang ITS SCCA #38
08 Buell Ulysses
http://www.gt40s.com" rel="nofollow - GT40s.com


Posted By: Ron Earp
Date Posted: 30-December-2010 at 3:19PM
Question - can anyone tell me the space between the inner part of the frame and the body when the body is installed?

I want to run a -8AN line down the inside of the passenger side frame rail. This line is about 5/8" to 3/4" OD and wish to know if there is that much space available between the frame and body.

Thanks,
Ron


-------------
04 Ford Lightning
72 GTS BB Stroker & Toploader
98 Mustang ITS SCCA #38
08 Buell Ulysses
http://www.gt40s.com" rel="nofollow - GT40s.com


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 30-December-2010 at 3:50PM
Ron-
Factory lines on the Torino, are a 3/8" line, I would think you should have clearance on you lines.
Let me go crawl under mine.
Be back in a few.



-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 30-December-2010 at 3:55PM
Damn, cold out there. I had to do the ole finger check. With my 3/8" line, I got one of my fat fingers in between the line and the body. I am guessing at this point, you are only going to have maybe 7/8" of an inch.
Sorry it's not more exacting...but I have too much junk on the floor to really lay down and check right now.



-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Ron Earp
Date Posted: 30-December-2010 at 8:46PM
Thank you, that is helpful and I think it is enough space as along as I keep the line tight to the frame.

-------------
04 Ford Lightning
72 GTS BB Stroker & Toploader
98 Mustang ITS SCCA #38
08 Buell Ulysses
http://www.gt40s.com" rel="nofollow - GT40s.com


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 30-December-2010 at 11:10PM
what's the harm in installing the CV bushings un-modified?
 
other than shimming the core support to match(which i need to do anyway) and having enough room to run my -10 fuel return line on top of the frame... slightly longer bolts if needed doesn't seem like a deal breaker. i'm not doing a Pebble Beach resto 
 


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 31-December-2010 at 2:35AM
Even with an OEM bushing I managed to run -8 an (well 1/2" aluminum) line in the OEM fuel line location. 

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 31-December-2010 at 2:51AM
Don't forget the small bushings on the frame side rails!
They are not bolt in, they go right about where your butt sits in the car to avoid any body/frame flex on that long run from front bushing to rear bushing.
It is rectangular shaped


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 31-December-2010 at 3:22AM
Originally posted by cowboyupdjcarl cowboyupdjcarl wrote:

Don't forget the small bushings on the frame side rails!
They are not bolt in, they go right about where your butt sits in the car to avoid any body/frame flex on that long run from front bushing to rear bushing.

It is rectangular shaped


This is the reason for modifying the mounts.

-------------
Jim




Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 31-December-2010 at 3:32AM
maybe i should stick to the measurements given here
http://www.ranchero.us/forums/showthread.php?t=6660 - http://www.ranchero.us/forums/showthread.php?t=6660
and shim evenly if needed for clearance. i'll also check my 72 factory manual to confirm, if the info is there
 
i'm not opposed to the Gasser look & have no sympathy for low profile 'rubber band on a rim' tires! not that i'm gonna do a 4" body lift either...


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 31-December-2010 at 12:01PM
I would ensure you cut the new springs to the stock height as described.
that way EVERYTHING lines up!
 
If the busings are taller then you have ALOT more adjustments to make...
Rear might not fit correct at rear bumper valance fuel neck area
That bushing I mentioned won't work
The header panel will need shimming but that could cause issues with the fan hitting the shroud.
Then you have the front bumper might not line up! The shims and slots are not designed for much up and down movement.


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Ron Earp
Date Posted: 08-January-2011 at 2:03PM
Below is a picture of one of the Crown Vic body insulator bushings mounted on my 72 GT. I think they worked great, but I have no idea if they are "right" or not.  They all installed easily and I used my old bolts. I did cut the units down as described by the original poster.  Seems there is about 1/2 to 5/8" between the body and the frame.  Don't know if that is too much, or too little, but it seems ok.



I appreciate you guys going to the trouble to find the parts and recommend them. Thanks much,

Ron



-------------
04 Ford Lightning
72 GTS BB Stroker & Toploader
98 Mustang ITS SCCA #38
08 Buell Ulysses
http://www.gt40s.com" rel="nofollow - GT40s.com


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 08-January-2011 at 5:30PM
Looks great!! glad we found a mount that will work!

-------------
Jim




Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 09-January-2011 at 5:44AM
looks great!
I wonder if I dipped the washers in a rubber coating if it would help reduce any body noise and also help not rust the spacer/washer or metal rub through the paint?


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: ilyes
Date Posted: 09-January-2011 at 1:39PM
i will cut an old bicycle air chamber to the shape of the washer just to make sure to don't scratch the paint


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 11-January-2011 at 1:18PM
Originally posted by cowboyupdjcarl cowboyupdjcarl wrote:

looks great!
I wonder if I dipped the washers in a rubber coating if it would help reduce any body noise and also help not rust the spacer/washer or metal rub through the paint?

I honestly don't think rubber coating the washers will make any difference at all because you still have the mount to cushion. 


-------------
Jim




Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 11-January-2011 at 4:48PM
I am thinking the rubber coating would help keep the washer from rubbing off the paint causing future rust issues. Avoid Metal washer to Painted body surface contact.
 


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 12-January-2011 at 4:05AM
How about just coating the washer with some silicone then? That sounds like it may work pretty good.

-------------
Jim




Posted By: Ron Earp
Date Posted: 12-January-2011 at 4:06AM
Hey Fellows,

Q - I'm getting ready to mount the "front" of my car - the radiator support etc and noticed I'm going to need some bushings there too! And, I don't have any - has anyone come up with a solution for this?

R


-------------
04 Ford Lightning
72 GTS BB Stroker & Toploader
98 Mustang ITS SCCA #38
08 Buell Ulysses
http://www.gt40s.com" rel="nofollow - GT40s.com


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 12-January-2011 at 5:06AM
Why not use the body bushing and space out the radiator support as needed? 

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: shanefolsom
Date Posted: 21-March-2011 at 1:53PM
did anyone every find out if these body bushings work for the radiator support too?  I pulled off my radiator support and definately need new bushings.  I am going to pull the body off and replace the body bushings too, so this thread looks very helpful.

-------------
1974 Gran Torino (sold)

1973 Gran Torino Sport

1969 Roadrunner


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 21-March-2011 at 2:59PM
Since I moved in January I haven't had a chance to even think about working on the core mounts yet. But I will work on it as soon as I can get my new shop together. I do know the body mounts I came up with will not work for the core. I was looking at either using universal mounts or maybe trying mounts from something else.

-------------
Jim




Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 24-March-2011 at 11:52AM
Yes, the rad support bushings are on my mind!!



-------------
Andrew


Posted By: legend onirot
Date Posted: 15-April-2011 at 2:49PM
mine are in!  i will post pics this weekend of the body and the frame married again.
http://forum.grantorinosport.org/legends-73-gran-torino-sport-stacy-lynn_topic4837_page2.html - http://forum.grantorinosport.org/legends-73-gran-torino-sport-stacy-lynn_topic4837_page2.html
 
i am about to need the radiator support bushings answer soon too.  here is a picture of mine originally.  it was 1 1/8 tall.  i think the crown vic bushings will work.  might need to add some spacing for when the bushing gets its "squishing"  on...
 
 
btw.  p.s. eliteman.  i friggin love your car.
 
 
 


-------------
---------------------
malcolm
1973 gran torino sport (formal)... "Stacy Lynn"
1972 gran torino (formal)... "Mackenzie"
1973 gran torino sport (sportroof)... "Leela"


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 18-April-2011 at 6:13AM
Thanks Malcom. Appreciate it.
 Here is what I came up with originally:
 
My mentality on this is, the rad support has some movement, as frame body alightment had to have some room to adjust. Don't totally want to lock it to the frame. Needs to float a small amount.
 
I've debated about taking a large, heavy washer, weld a tube the size of the frame, and have a holt just the bolt size centered.
 
 
As shown before, my mounts I got from Ford were the same size as what I pulled off my car oiginally so I figured using same OD I was covered.
 
When I fist installed them many moons ago...looked great:
 
 
You can see what's happened over time...started to mushroom out.
 
I say, get a universal amount from someone like Energy Suspension.
I am seriously thinking about trying even this for the frame to body:
Energy Suspension 4-7113R: Bushings, Strut Rod, Polyurethane, Red, Front, Ford, Mustang II/Pinto, Set 
Or, maybe a general kit like 3-7105G Energy Suspension Radius/Strut Arm Bushing Set from Summit Racing's ebay auction # 390306704197. This is a radius rod set for a nova2, but I'm going to see if this will work for me.
 
It's $28.90 with shipping. Screw it, I bought it. Geek
 
When I get it, I will lift my current bushings out and slide these in. If I need to modify the bushings, I will let you guys know. I have no issues if I need to weld a washer or plate.
 
I am more concered about a solid mount to the frame. I am tired of watching my front clip shake when I hammer down the road hard.
 
I have pretty much a 4 day weekend. I am going to work on swapping coil springs out, so same time I will do the bushings while the car is up in the air.
 
 


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Grande Verde
Date Posted: 18-April-2011 at 8:25AM
Im thinking about trying energy suspension part # 9-4102 universal body mount kit for my radiator support. Might need some modification but seems close

-------------
Harry
72 GTS 351W
02 F-350 7.3 PSD


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 20-April-2011 at 4:38PM
OK. Got the bushings today from Summit. They are damn near identical in size to the original bushings I have and the replacement Ford Mounts on the car.

OK, Harry, wish I would have seen that one. Bought it.
I am going to figure this out one way or another. Hope I see this show up Friday. I got my other stuff in 2 freaking days.
 


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 26-April-2011 at 5:22PM
OK. Got the universal body mount today. I like it. Would fit perfect, and cover a large area.
I shot a short video clip. Keep in mind, I sort of was only thinking of mounting the big bushing to the rad support, and the area between the rad support and the frame.
The large bushing I think is going to work well for this.

This weekend, weather is looking good, warm and sunny. Bet your ass I'm swapping springs AND the core support bushings.
I also spoke with Carl about this. Rethinking the bolt setup.
Anyways, here are some pictures, and the video clip:

Video: {click on picture}
http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j167/Eliteman76/Videos/?action=view&current=MOV02115.mp4">

OK, and here are some reference shots:
Original torino set up:

Comparing the Nova2 track bar bushings. These literally fit into the hole on the support PERFECT.

Comparison of the original mount:

Now, comparison of the universal Body Mount:

Trying to fit the tapered step, I was thinking of installing this INTO the support {Yes, I am occasionally the Gran Torino Sport Village Idiot}

And general shots of the bushings:

As mentioned before, I am going to fit the large mount on the frame, under the support, and inside the frame rail.
I may use a large washer and reuse my grade 8 bolts.

More to follow. 




-------------
Andrew


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 27-April-2011 at 6:51AM
I bought the uni mounts a few years back for this. I found they fit the frame perfectly but no way to mount to the core support. Also, look at the original setup. There is a solid steel "donut" bolted directly to the core. No rubber bushing at all. The only rubber is on either side of the frame. Maybe we can reuse "some" of the original mount? What is the number on that Nova II mount? I may try that with a combination of anything else I have. (which btw is a lot after trying a lot of different things)

-------------
Jim




Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 27-April-2011 at 8:47AM
Talked with Andy last night about this front mount set up.
 
After watching my front end and hearing Andy's horror stories about our noses moving around and denting sheet metal or scratching as it moves so much.
 
What we discussed is the reason the nose moves so much is that it is not mounted solid on the stock mounts. With rubber on top and bottom of both the core support AND the frame it allows it to move ALOT!
Thoughts are...
1. make the core support hole smaller (weld a THICK washer/steel plate in place)
2. a solid nut on top of the core support (welded or a nut with a tab to hold in place)
3. SOME type of mount on top and bottom of the FRAME (spacers can be used to make up space)
4. Long bolt up through Bushing/frame/bushing/spacers/core support/nut
 
Essentially making it just like a regular body mount. THAT will keep the bolt straight up and down with less road shock pivoting the mount and saving the front end from bouncing around traveling and damaging paint/sheet metal.


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 27-April-2011 at 2:35PM
Sounds good, but I see a problem with welding a washer and/or nut to the core support. Doing so will take away movement for adjustability like the factory oval holes in the core support do.

-------------
Jim




Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 27-April-2011 at 3:09PM
OK, some reason I lost my post I just did.

I am going to pull the original mount off the core and look at it.
I am looking at using the large mount on the bottom, and if nothing else, an eliptical washer in that slot.
I had issues getting my front clip aligned, and it's irritating as hell.

Planning on doing this weekend. Had something come up that sort of screwed up my week bad, but will see what I can do.



-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 27-April-2011 at 3:13PM
Jim-
Energy Suspension part# 3-7105G
Radius/Strut Arm Bushing Set
Summit Racing's ebay auction # 390306704197

energy suspension part # 9-4102 
universal body mount kit 
Summit Racing's ebay auction #370497943085


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 28-April-2011 at 1:22AM
Originally posted by cowboyupdjcarl cowboyupdjcarl wrote:

Talked with Andy last night about this front mount set up.
 
After watching my front end and hearing Andy's horror stories about our noses moving around and denting sheet metal or scratching as it moves so much.
 
What we discussed is the reason the nose moves so much is that it is not mounted solid on the stock mounts. With rubber on top and bottom of both the core support AND the frame it allows it to move ALOT!
Thoughts are...
1. make the core support hole smaller (weld a THICK washer/steel plate in place)
2. a solid nut on top of the core support (welded or a nut with a tab to hold in place)
3. SOME type of mount on top and bottom of the FRAME (spacers can be used to make up space)
4. Long bolt up through Bushing/frame/bushing/spacers/core support/nut
 
Essentially making it just like a regular body mount. THAT will keep the bolt straight up and down with less road shock pivoting the mount and saving the front end from bouncing around traveling and damaging paint/sheet metal.

Reading this, I sort of sat blankly and said "This is sort of what my 78 is like".

I'll get some pics. 


-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 28-April-2011 at 2:03PM
As I thought.. 

I present the setup on the 77-79 car... at least, on mine, here is the setup. I'll check the other Cougar in the AM (it's pouring out now).  No disrespect meant, but I thought you were nuts, Andy, going through all this.. It sounds like the 72 cars use something totally different than what I have here.
In Order from top to bottom.

Nut
Solid Spacer
Core Support
Solid Spacer
Bushing
Frame
Bushing
Washer (I think.. couldn't tell by feel)
Bolt head. 




-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 28-April-2011 at 3:05PM
Paul,
Your setup is very similar to the 72-76 mounts. Like I said in a past post........
Originally posted by 73GTS 73GTS wrote:

look at the original setup. There is a solid steel "donut" bolted directly to the core. No rubber bushing at all. The only rubber is on either side of the frame. Maybe we can reuse "some" of the original mount?
Seems to me we could reuse the solid parts, get new bolts and a new rubber/poly mount for the frame. That should be easy.Wacko


-------------
Jim




Posted By: inenidok
Date Posted: 28-April-2011 at 3:26PM
mine was setup like that in solid and solid rubber top of frame and inside frame, but all mine is rotted away and i need a core support and correct setup of the supprt so i can get my front clip back on after being off for a 1 and half. (just hope i can find all the bolts and parts since our move ugh)


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 28-April-2011 at 4:58PM
Paul thanks for the pics!!!
 
That is exactly the problem we 72 and other early year cars have a the SAME set up only the Solid spacers you have are rubber on our cars and THAT lets the front clip move around ALOT!
 
With the pics from Paul it tells me our idea is on track!!!
Replace the core support rubber bushings with solid metal washers/spacers and then almost any body support bushing will work.


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 28-April-2011 at 5:29PM
I can see how that would flop around like a fish out of water, lol. This is fairly tight. If you guys have an extra body bushing kicking around, it might be worth using it, and a stack of washers, just for now, to try it. 



-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Grande Verde
Date Posted: 29-April-2011 at 4:12AM
I think it is important to minimize the number of components in the stack up. The more washers, spacers and bushings you use the more chance you will have for the front to move around. I think also keeping everything the same diameter will help as well. If you have a 2.5 dia bushing and then a metal spacer on top of it that is only 1.5 dia its going to increase the leverage and make it easier for movement to occur. Height is also an issue these thick spacers just add more leverage, the less bolt length we have the better we will be. I think the max stack up should be

nut
washer (thin)
rad support
washer (thin)
bushing
frame
bushing
washer (thin)
bolt

Having a metal sleeve through the bushings is important as well


-------------
Harry
72 GTS 351W
02 F-350 7.3 PSD


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 29-April-2011 at 1:56PM
OK.
Paul, no offense taken man. What I did, was plan incorrect, I'll freely admit I screwed up.
See what happens when you don't take details of your car, and leave it apart for like 6 years?

And, back to the bushing:
energy suspension part # 9-4102 universal body mount kit for radiator support. 
Might need some modification = die grinder and enlarge the opening up slightly. 

I installed the the set today, compared to the original mounts off that core I had from the green GTS.
Your install may vary, but installed them in my car, with the included washers, and then reused the original thick washers on the top of the support, like pictured in Paul's cougar.
Will post later.
In the process of pulling the springs out right now, taking break for food.

I had to grind the frame opening to allow the bushing to sit with the step.
These are very firm, and because of the large diameter, I am pretty satisfied.


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: inenidok
Date Posted: 30-April-2011 at 11:39AM
hey everyone i went digging in my stuff and found my old mount rotted but i had put it back together i guess to remind me how it went ugh smart on my part LOL well it was set up this way about a inch thick rubber in frame rubber on top frame with sleeve then a about a 1/4 inch spacer solid metal then 3 shims c shaped then a nut with a washer with a slight shoulder but not as thick as the support to allow for tighting and to keep in mount in the oblong hole in support. that is the way mine was setup.
 
washer
rubber
frame
rubber slevee to rubber
1/4 steel spacer
c shaped shims
support
washer with slight shoulder
nut
 
that is the way mine was setup but i only have one rubber now rest are gone from time


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 06-May-2011 at 8:39PM
OK I've just spent the last hour and a half cruising around Omaha. Yes, it's 2:30AM.
I drove around testing the CVPI springs over some of Omaha's quality city streets.

My front clip with the new mount kit, is a hell of a lot better from before.
Going to work on the GTS tomorrow but driving some more to one of my brothers for a while, so I'll get a clear view of things...



-------------
Andrew


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 07-May-2011 at 4:47AM
So what did you end up using for the core mounts? Did you 
take any pics??
How is the front end sitting with those springs? WE NEED PICS MAN!!!LOL


-------------
Jim




Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 08-May-2011 at 1:36PM
I used the larger universal body mount, and took a small die grinder and hogged the opening up slightly to fit them.

The car itself is more leveled than how it looked before...not as much of a rake, but not a big deal for me.

Working on pics. I was up till 5am this morning...had a long night...was out with the car until 3am "driving" it.

Overall the ride is firm. Not going BS anyone, but the car says level in hard corners. Does not feel bad...but I drive a '79 F150 with high rate coils up front, so the Torino rides softer compared to the GTS.

Comparing the GTS to say my 1999 Contour SE Sport with V6, the ride is compliant, and decent.

As I suspect from my decision to compromise on the bushings I got, I am getting some bad shaking on my rear axle if I am hitting...the suspension is loading up and shaking. I shook the car really hard last night taking a corner are a certain amount of speed and stepping into it {freeway ramp}.

My overall feedback is I think this is what I am happy with, and leaving as it.
My hope is the springs will settle maybe a 1/2" over time, and I'm good.

Time to dig my Comp/police rear uppers out of the cabinet and install polygraphite bushings on the uppers. Anyone found an install kit for spiracle bushings that can be used on the lowers?
Also looking at possibly doing a pan hard bar out back.

{Sorry, don't want to get off topic on the control arm stuff}






-------------
Andrew


Posted By: lynchster
Date Posted: 08-May-2011 at 4:01PM
Originally posted by Eliteman76 Eliteman76 wrote:

Time to dig my Comp/police rear uppers out of the cabinet and install polygraphite bushings on the uppers. Anyone found an install kit for spiracle bushings that can be used on the lowers?
Also looking at possibly doing a pan hard bar out back.

{Sorry, don't want to get off topic on the control arm stuff}
 
What bushings are you using for the comp arms?
For now I'm using a stock set of arms with poly graphite bushings because they didn't have a listing for the comp arms.
 
Chuck    


-------------
Chuck
72 Gran Torino Sport
91 F-150


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 08-May-2011 at 4:39PM
Get some METCO LCA's. And they come with the bushings installed.

-------------
Jim




Posted By: lynchster
Date Posted: 09-May-2011 at 12:52PM
Originally posted by 73GTS 73GTS wrote:

Get some METCO LCA's. And they come with the bushings installed.
 
I was refering to the upper control arms for the competition handling package. My car came with the package but I couldn't get the right size bushings to replace them (smaller than stock) and had to compromise for now with standard upper control arms.
 
Chuck 


-------------
Chuck
72 Gran Torino Sport
91 F-150


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 11-May-2011 at 4:05PM
Back to the rad support:
So, I am sitting on my creeper, staring up into the frame:
Taking the die grinder:

End result was...one half ass ground hole:

Bushing installed:



-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 11-May-2011 at 4:09PM
Of note:
I was supporting the GTS with 6 ton stands under the frame, where the frame kicks out and curves into the front area.
I was surprised when I unbolted the support, the front of the frame dropped a bit, due to assuming the engine/etc.
I had to take a jack and raise my frame back up to meet the support to bolt in the bushings.
 


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 11-May-2011 at 4:25PM
A couple short video clips: {click on the pictures below to play clip}
http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j167/Eliteman76/Videos/?action=view&current=Torinoradsupport-RH-4-29-2011.mp4">

http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j167/Eliteman76/Videos/?action=view&current=Torinoradsupport-LH-4-29-2011.mp4">


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: crispy23c
Date Posted: 11-May-2011 at 9:26PM
Originally posted by lynchster lynchster wrote:

Originally posted by Eliteman76 Eliteman76 wrote:

Time to dig my Comp/police rear uppers out of the cabinet and install polygraphite bushings on the uppers. Anyone found an install kit for spiracle bushings that can be used on the lowers?
Also looking at possibly doing a pan hard bar out back.

{Sorry, don't want to get off topic on the control arm stuff}
 
What bushings are you using for the comp arms?
For now I'm using a stock set of arms with poly graphite bushings because they didn't have a listing for the comp arms.
 
Chuck    

Chuck, these should work fine (emergy susp kit #4.3120):
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Ford+Gran+Torino+1973 - http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Ford+Gran+Torino+1973

They have kits for all yr Torino suspensions...hope this helps.

Chris


-------------
Chris P. '73 GTS FastBack 351CJ-4V Triple black


"Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - Gen. John Stark


Posted By: smitty-1976
Date Posted: 01-June-2011 at 6:28AM

I found my replacement core support bushings from LMC Truck Parts.  Check their Bronco and Pickup catalogs under 1976.  Apparently the pickup and bronco used the same core support bushings. 



Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: 24-July-2011 at 4:33AM
Anybody ever figure out a bushing set up for the radiator support? We can now mount the body put the radiator support holds the front sheetmetal to the frame and it is important to have it at the correct height as this will effect fender fit to the doors and rocker.What have those of you that have done body off frame done for rad support?


Posted By: inenidok
Date Posted: 24-July-2011 at 7:13AM
i am going to use the set up eliteman76 used on his energy supenison 9.4102 nad even going to try to 9.4101 set since i have a soild spacer


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 24-July-2011 at 9:39AM
Originally posted by inenidok inenidok wrote:

i am going to use the set up eliteman76 used on his energy supenison 9.4102 nad even going to try to 9.4101 set since i have a soild spacer

I tried this mount before. Seams like the best choice so far.


-------------
Jim




Posted By: TV 2M8O
Date Posted: 30-December-2011 at 2:52PM
Originally posted by smitty-1976 smitty-1976 wrote:

I found my replacement core support bushings from LMC Truck Parts.  Check their Bronco and Pickup catalogs under 1976.  Apparently the pickup and bronco used the same core support bushings. 

 
 
Getting ready to pull my core support off my '76. Looked thru their 2011 catalog and I can't seem to find them. What is the LMC part number for their core support bushings? Any pics of the final installation? Would like to have this issue put to rest BEFORE I bust mine apart.
 
THANKS!


-------------

TV 2M8O OUT
JOE
1976 Gran Torino S&H season 2-4 Clone
Project Blog: http://tv2m8o.blogspot.com/


Posted By: crispy23c
Date Posted: 30-January-2012 at 11:31AM
Has anyone put all of the information together in one document?  Probably be a good idea, once we reach consensus...

-------------
Chris P. '73 GTS FastBack 351CJ-4V Triple black


"Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - Gen. John Stark


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 17-March-2012 at 1:10PM
I just took the front clip off my '79 Ranchero and found the core support mounts had been replaced with Jeep bushings. Looked very good. Almost perfect with no mods.

KJ04005 87-96 YJ Wrangler Body Mount Installation

M02348 Bushing
M02350 Bushing

http://www.daystarweb.com/attachments/instructions/JEEP%20INSTRUCTIONS/KJ04005BK.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.daystarweb.com/attachments/instructions/JEEP%20INSTRUCTIONS/KJ04005BK.pdf


-------------
Jim




Posted By: SininenIII
Date Posted: 18-March-2012 at 7:34AM
^ Those Daystar bushings work, I used them on mine. All I had to do is trim a little those conical shaped bushing so they could fit in throught the holes at the bottom of the frame.





Bought them from Jeeperz Creeperz http://www.jeeperz-creeperz.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.jeeperz-creeperz.com/


-------------
Aatu
73 Gran Torino Sport
http://public.fotki.com/Granaatu/" rel="nofollow - http://public.fotki.com/Granaatu/


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 21-March-2012 at 2:15PM
I have finished my research on the body mounts and core support mounts and conclude.........

The best mount I feel for the body is the Crown Vic mount I modified. If you would like poly mounts, I would use the Jeep mounts (Daystar). Both mounts have the same diameter metal sleeve as the hole in the frame for a perfect fit.

I took the Jeep mounts out of the core support on my 79 Ranchero. Not bad, but there were a few things I didn't like. I will say, the benefit of using the Jeep mount is it has the same diameter as the hole in the frame if the holes in the frame aren't rotted out.
Mine were, so I found the perfect setup for that situation. 

Here it is............

Just like Andrew, I bought the Energy Suspensions universal mounts awhile back and been playing around with different ideas until I perfected it. 

On my Ranchero, the Jeep mounts with factory spacers measured 1 13/16" between the frame and core support. I wanted to stay close to this measurement so if I had to do any more shimming, it wouldn't be much and would be easy.

These are the mounts to use.....
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.4102#" rel="nofollow - http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.4102#

What is needed for the core support(and NO modifications are needed);

4 ea Mounts -  9.4102

Bought from Bolt Depot
2 ea  Bolts -  7/16-14 x 4 1/2  Grade 8
2 ea Nuts - 7/16-14  Grade 8
2 ea Nuts - 7/16-14 Locknuts Grade 8
12 ea Washers - SAE 7/16 Grade 8
4 ea Washers - USS 1 1/8 Grade 8

Factory shims and washers

1. Parts spread out in order.


2. We start at the bottom and work up thru the frame. This washer is in with the mount kit.


3. The rubber bushing can be "muscled" up thru the hole on the bottom of the frame without mods.
This part of the mount is used on the bottom and top. (2 of the same from 2 mounts) 


4. I used these 2 washers to "sandwich" the frame because of the holes being rotted out. They are 1 1/8" USS. 
To get 1 inside the frame, I took my grinder and opened the slot on the inside of the frame slightly to slide the washer in. 


5. Next we have the center sleeve.


6. Then the part of the mount that goes between the frame and the core support. (only 1 of these)


7.


8. Washer supplied with mount.


9. Factory spacer. If you need to shim up, this is where you do it.


10. If your frame isn't rotted, you can shim here and eliminate the 2 frame sandwich washers I used.


11. 6 washers here (SAE 7/16) for 2 reasons. 1. The bolt isn't threaded long enough and 
2. it helps by fitting up in the core support for a perfect fit and guides the top bushing for a perfect fit too.


12. Regular nut tightened "Tight"


13. This is the finished mount to sit the core support on.


14. This bushing goes on the top side of the core support. (same bushing as used under frame)


15. Recessed area fits nicely over the nut for a perfect fit.


16.


17. Washer supplied with mount.


18. Locknut


19. Complete mount 


20. Factory shim if needed. Washers work too, but mount needs to be taken apart.


This is a perfect solution to the core support mounts. I was very impressed with how it all fit together.

When you are done, the extra parts you will have are the 2 mounts with the attached metal sleeves. Sorry, no use for these. And 2 washers that are supplied with the mounts. These can be used to shim around the factory spacer if needed, or used around the factory spacer if the washers that sandwich the frame are not used.

Hope this helps! 


-------------
Jim




Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 22-March-2012 at 6:36AM
I wanted to add to this.
I am still getting a disconcerning amount of shake from my front clip, and can ot figure out how the heck to stop it.
I know the car is going to flex a bit while driving over hard stuff, but I do not like it.
 
On factory cars, only thing I noticed- no bushing on the top side, only a large washer.


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 22-March-2012 at 7:22AM
The top bushing is only 1" maybe? And it's poly. Shouldn't cause any movement. Once it's tightened down it's pretty solid.

-------------
Jim




Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 22-March-2012 at 3:34PM
Andy, these things are gonna flex bad and the front end is gonna shake alot.
Not alot we can do unless you solid mount it or re-enforce the frame with a front hoop or something similar.
I believe that was the effort of those HD front lower support rods we saw in another thread.
 
 


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 23-March-2012 at 3:03AM
You can replace the top bushing with washers instead. But that's about all you can do with it.

-------------
Jim




Posted By: inenidok
Date Posted: 16-April-2012 at 3:11AM
well i know mine did not have a bushing on the top side of the support just in frame and top of frame them spacers and shimms


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 16-April-2012 at 4:27AM
It seems like the 72, being the first year, has a lot of 'peculiarities' that Ford straightened out as the chassis was more refined.

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 21-April-2012 at 9:19PM
Looking back again through the thread...I have decided to weld on my braces to the frame and bolt them in.
Curious to see if this is going to resolve the "shake" issue I seem to be suffering.
Also, it's hard to say as I have had my car completely torn apart.

Do not want to get side tracked on this thread, but nice info guys. Also for reference, if anyone needs original body bushings, I have a couple boxes of them if you need one for your own reference.




-------------
Andrew


Posted By: carguy47
Date Posted: 07-May-2012 at 5:42AM
Researched these bushings and I can't believe the price increase: Tops are $20.25 and Bottoms are $16.42 each respectfully. I think I am going to reuse my originals and use cut down poly bushings.
FYI, I was able to create the correct height for the radiator bushings as well with the polys and the original hardware.


-------------
You have to build em to drive em!


Posted By: BackInBlack
Date Posted: 10-May-2012 at 4:01AM
Any conclusions on the shaking...
Stability ok with the energy supenison 9.4102 ?
 
I've just inspected my bushings and they are all splitting.   Looks like I'll replace the body mounts with the Crown Vic solution, but wanted to bump this thread to find out of the radiator support setup is a "go".
 
Thanks,
John


-------------
-John
1973 GTS


Posted By: inenidok
Date Posted: 11-May-2012 at 3:31AM
i know my 73 did not have any rubber on the very top just a washer. and a nut. now do we need one kit or two kits from energy? i am ready to install front clip now.


Posted By: 73GTS
Date Posted: 11-May-2012 at 5:30AM
If you're using a flat washer on the top instead, then all you need is 2 of the universal mounts.

-------------
Jim




Posted By: inenidok
Date Posted: 11-May-2012 at 7:40AM
OK thanks 73gts I ordered one kit from energy suspension today I want it a factory style. Having the extra rubber looks like it would have an extra point for movement


Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 13-May-2012 at 4:46PM
I think the issue is more movement of the hood more than anything to be honest.
Had the GTS out today and driving down the interstate, it just seems like the hood is moving around more than I care. Fenders don't seem to see be moving much at all after watching a video clip we took today of the front clip.
Ermm


-------------
Andrew


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 14-May-2012 at 12:51AM
Andy, do you have the rubber bumper on the side of the hood that are slipped into the fender tops?


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: inenidok
Date Posted: 15-May-2012 at 2:15AM
do you still have the inner fenders in your car ? if not that is the problem



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net