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INFO: Suspension Part Numbers (stock replacement)

Printed From: The Ford Torino Page
Category: Model Specific Forum
Forum Name: 1972-1976 Ford and Mercury
Forum Description: Technical discussion for 1972-1976 Ford and Mercury
URL: http://forum.grantorinosport.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=4676
Printed Date: 12-November-2018 at 10:55AM
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: INFO: Suspension Part Numbers (stock replacement)
Posted By: Regul8r
Subject: INFO: Suspension Part Numbers (stock replacement)
Date Posted: 05-December-2010 at 3:28PM
Went to O'Reilly's today with my notebook.
Picked up all the MOOG Part #s and prices to totally rebuild my suspension
 
Here's the Front...
Part Pt# # Needed O'Reilly's Total
FRONT SUSPENSION
Upper Ball Joint K8212 2 32.99 65.98
Lower Ball Joint press in K8197 2 43.99 87.98
Lower Ball Joint Bolt in K8059 2 didn't get price  
Lower Control Arm Inner Bushing  K8082 1 16.99 16.99
Strut Rod Bushing K8207 1 53.99 53.99
Upper Control Arm bushings K8202 2 15.99 31.98
Upper Control Arm kit K8252 2 Special order  
15/16 to 1" sway bar frame bushing K8379 1 8.99 8.99
1-1/16 to 1-1/8" sway bar frame bushing K5253 1 11.49  
Sway Bar end links K8266 2 6.69 13.38
TOTAL       279.29
 
O'Reilly's and MOOG book show bushings for Rear Lower Control Arms ONLY,
Nothing about Uppers or Sway Bars
REAR SUSPENSION
Lower Control Arm Bushings K8135 2 29.99 59.98
Upper Control Arm Bushings        
Rear Sway bar to frame bushings        
Rear Sway bar end links        
 
ALL these parts work on all 72-79 cars we have, SAME stuff on the 71-79 T-Bird as well!!!
So the BIGGER 71-76 T-Bird uses SAME stuff as the MidSize stuff.
 
Anyone have MOOG part numbers and/or pricing for the ones I am missing above?


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired



Replies:
Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 05-December-2010 at 3:49PM
WOW!
Ford used the hell out of these Upper Ball Joints...
 
It says the MOOG K8212 fits ALL these vehicles...
 
1958-1960 EDSEL & THUNDERBIRD; 
1957-1964 FORD & MERCURY; 
1965-1978 FORD CUSTOM 500, GALAXIE, LTD, MERCURY MARQUIS & MONTEREY; 
1973-1979 FORD LTD II; 
1974-1978 MUSTANG; 
1971-1980 PINTO; 
1972-1979 RANCHERO, TORINO; 
1967-1979 THUNDERBIRD; 
1970-1979 LINCOLN ALL; 
1968-1969 MARK III; 
1974-1980 BOBCAT;
1974-1979 COUGAR; 
1973-1978 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS; 
1972-1976 MERCURY MONTEGO


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 05-December-2010 at 3:54PM
I didn't realize the lower Ball joint had 2 options of bolt-in or press-in.
 
the Yellow 72 and the 72 Montego both had bolt-in, so I am using those lower control arms.
Rather be able to replace parts than have to take them completely off and pay to have them pressed in/out.
 
Makes for better on the road repairs if ever needed and NO worries of the press messing up the paint or the LCA itself.


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: 05-December-2010 at 4:09PM
The make a tool called a C press for pressing ball joints,can even buy a cheap version from Harbor Freight.Had to do my lower balljoints on my 97 Explorer,was very easy to press them out and new ones in.Bolt on style ofcourse is easier.My uppers on Explorer are non servicable,you have to buy the whole control arm which cost me $150 per side from NAPA .Haven't looked at my 72 to see what style balljoints they have.


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 05-December-2010 at 4:30PM
Yes Jeff I know that! lol
I am just saying I LIKE the bolt-in... NO ISSUES when changing!
EASY to replace!


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: ilyes
Date Posted: 05-December-2010 at 4:40PM
thanks for the list, i don't have to go through it now, it's already ready for me Big smile


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 05-December-2010 at 4:54PM
Originally posted by ilyes ilyes wrote:

thanks for the list, i don't have to go through it now, it's already ready for me Big smile
Yup for me too!
Just go order the parts and drop off the $280 for all the parts.
 
I am going with the MOOG stuff.
taking no chance with cheap stuff!


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 1:38AM
73 and up might be press in? I've never seen a bolt in lower ball joint for a midsize.
 
We should add the #s for the poly bushings as well


-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 1:50AM
I don't have numbers for Poly.
If someone else has them all with prices and locations... please post
I am working on updating the first post with the Rock Auto prices for the SAME MOOG only parts.


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: iangj
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 1:53AM
In 30 years I have never seen a Bolt in Lower ball joint on these Fords. Always a press in.
I'd love to see a picture


-------------
Ian Glyn-Jones
Fonthill, Ontario, Canada


Montego GT Registry
Forum; http://mmgt.forumchitchat.com/


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 1:56AM

Keeping the suspension talk here... I need some info.

I am using all MOOG numbers for comparison BUT Rock Auto has
Moog, TRW, McQuay-Norris, Raybestos and a bunch of off-name brand parts.
 
This might be a matter of personal preference or opinion but...
What is the biggest difference between the 4 above?
Is MOOG really that much better than TRW and Raybestos?
 
I remember when I was working in a shop that MANY products were manufactured by the same company but packaged for the different companies.
 


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 3:17AM
It's still the same. Raybestos has two levels of parts in some cases, a "professional grade" and a "service grade". There is a difference, at least when it comes to ball joints. 

My unprofessional opinion of quality
Best >>> Worst
Moog / TRW/Ray Prof / Mcquay / Ray Service...... Other (like Mevotech). 

The parts stores are a crap shoot. Autozone (Duralast) does use reboxed TRW and Ray Prof.. but also some service grade parts.

Note that through Rock Auto, Moog has a lifetime warranty. Some others may as well. This isn't to say that your wheel will fall off with a Mevotech ball joint.. Just that, again, IMO, a Moog Ball Joint will last 100K miles with proper grease maintenance, while a Mevotech may last..... 50K.. These are blind numbers as an example. I have no facts to back this up.


-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 3:20AM
Suspension.com Energy Suspension numbers and prices.

Fairlane, Grand Torino, Torino, Elite, (Ranchero after 3/15/72)
How do we define the word 'SET'.  
A 'SET' has enough bushings to do the left and right sides of vehicle. 
Control arm bushing sets will also include lower & upper positions, if required.
 
Order one set per vehicle
YEARFRONT END CONTROL 
ARM BUSHING 

SET
You must re-use the outer metal shells.  
Do not remove with an air chisel.

REAR END CONTROL 
ARM BUSHING 

SET
You must re-use the outer metal shells.  
Do not remove with an air chisel.

STRUT ROD
BUSHING 

SET
SWAY BAR 
BUSHING 

SET
Please measure the diameter of 
the sway bar before ordering.

FRONT END 
LINK 

SET
TIE-ROD END
BOOTS 

(PR.)
72-794.3111 (2) 
$34.00
must use
existing outer shells

4.3120 (24) 
$65.00
4.7117 
$22.00
http://www.suspension.com/s.b.bushings.htm - See sway bar bushings page 9.8118 
$18.00
9.13101 
$4.00
Weight
1.7#
5.2#
1.0#
1.0#
1.3#
0.2#


-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: iangj
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 3:32AM
Can someone who has bought the front 4.3111g set check them for me. I'm wondering if mine were packaged wrong. The set I got are WAY to big for the front control arms both upper & lower. I don't want to order another set to find they are also wrong.
All the rear parts were fine and easy to install. Note on the rear;
-The lowers come with shells. It's the uppers that you have to reuse the shells.


-------------
Ian Glyn-Jones
Fonthill, Ontario, Canada


Montego GT Registry
Forum; http://mmgt.forumchitchat.com/


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 3:45AM
I have 4.3111 in my Cougars and my 76 Elite.. They fit fine. Drill or melt out the OEM bushing, and install them into your existing shell. I used two large sockets and a block of wood with a hammer

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: iangj
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 5:28AM
I'll have to take a picture so you'll understand what I mean by WAY to big. They are at least 2.5 times the diameter. That's why I wanted to see another set to see if mine were packaged wrong.

-------------
Ian Glyn-Jones
Fonthill, Ontario, Canada


Montego GT Registry
Forum; http://mmgt.forumchitchat.com/


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 5:56AM
Here's my old control arms.


That help?

This is what they looked like





-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: iangj
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 6:14AM
Now that's the right ones!
So my set were packaged wrong then.
Thanks for the help. I will order another set right away.


-------------
Ian Glyn-Jones
Fonthill, Ontario, Canada


Montego GT Registry
Forum; http://mmgt.forumchitchat.com/


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 8:05AM
Some thoughts:

1.  Bolt-in lower control arm ball joint.

I saw (had) such an arm about 15 years ago when I was working on my Elite. I had messed up the arm in a vice (my first time doing it), and a wrecking yard got me the arm. I think it was off a 72 LTD or something like that. It had the bolt in ball joint. I did not realize it until later, and I ended up taking it back. The wrecking yard was a little miffed, to them they were interchangeable, but when you have already purchased one type of ball joint, I wanted it to be all the same.

As the years have gone by, I wonder if maybe the bolt in would have been better. Would make for easier changing, for sure. I presume that it would hold up as well as a press in (meaning I would not expect the bolts to break or anything over time).

2.  For parts I used on my last major suspension rebuild I will email to Carl so he can update his master spreadsheet. I used mostly TRW parts where possible. I had not known at the time that Moog was the top choice to use. However, it is important to note that I considered the TRW ball joints to be superior to the NAPA ones I had used back in 1996. The TRW seemed to be made much better and also the grease boot actually fit on the ball joint when it was installed into the arm (I had great troubles with that when using the NAPA ones). So I know there are different makes out there of these parts.

3.  I had rubber bushings used on my 75 Sport a few years ago when I had the suspension rebuilt it in. I had a shop do it (I literally did not have the time to consider doing it myself), and while I was generally unimpressed with the suspension (and a year or two later it had gotten worse), I am not sure how much I can blame the shop (which made errors I found later) and how much I have to accept was the rubber bushings. I used poly on the 73 Sport, but since it has turned into a larger resto project, it has never been driven with the new suspension and the fancy AGR steering gear on it.


-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 9:33AM
Question to Gary (Torinogts73c):

In the past, one of the things that has concerned me with all of the suspension replacement work and all of the replacing of stuff with new, there are two bolts and two nuts that I was never able to find.

The two bolts and the captive self locking nuts that go through the upper A-arm shaft and into the frame, along with the mating nuts that have the rectangular piece of steel sheet to captivate them  - I have never been able to find a part number for them, or if they are available new?

Can you find if they are available from Ford? Or a part number and I can check with Green Sales?

Much appreciated!


-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 9:34AM
Not Gary, but you can make one in a pinch. The bolts aren't anything special, either. 

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 06-December-2010 at 9:54AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Not Gary, but you can make one in a pinch. The bolts aren't anything special, either. 


That would be cool as well. I suspect they are not available anymore, but it would be nice if Gary could check.

I think it is the one part that you really can not replace as easily with new as the other stuff. And since I had damaged one once (way back on my Elite) I know that if it is not 100% then it can loosen up and really mess up your alignment!



-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 09-December-2010 at 3:29PM
Not a very good pic but here is a quick shot I took of the 72 Montego with the bolt in ball joint.
 
I have not confirmed the underside of the arm yet. BUSY with other work, just thought I'd start to post the bolt in stuff.
 
Just went and checked... the yellow 72 has this same set up.
 


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 10-December-2010 at 1:46AM
Here is Scott's list...
 
Front Suspension Part List
1973 Ford Gran Torino Sport
Parts
Description Retailer Part Number # req'd unit Price per unit Notes
Steering Gear AGR Systems   1 ea $398.00 Variable Ratio
Front Coil Spring Insulators Eaton ES6053 2 ea $12.20  
Front Coil Spring Set Eaton MC1392 1 pr $145.00 http://www.eatonsprings.com/
Rear Coil Spring Set Eaton MC1995 1 pr $145.00 http://www.eatonsprings.com/
Polyurethane Steering Coupler John's Mustang CSC-311 1 ea $20.00 Mustang 67-73
Bolt, caliper NAPA UP 82257  2 ea $2.49  
Caliper, LH NAPA UP 4424000 1 ea $41.99  
Caliper, RH NAPA UP 4424001 1 ea $41.99  
Control Arm Bumper (upper) NAPA NCP2654001 2 ea $6.00  
Dust Cap, rotor NAPA BK 7302436 2 ea $3.49  
Inner Bearing, front NAPA BR13 2 ea $10.49 For 72 T-bird rotors
Outer Bearing, front NAPA BR12 2 ea $9.49 For 72 T-bird rotors
Rotor, front NAPA UP 85540  2 ea $154.00 72 Thunderbird
Spindle nut kit, front NAPA BK 6301524 2 ea $5.69  
Wheel Seal, front NAPA NOS19221 2 ea $2.99 For 72 T-bird rotors
Center Link PartsAmerica DS901 1 ea $90.00  
Coil Spring Compressor PartsAmerica 648603 1 ea $32.00  
Control Arm Bumper (lower) PartsAmerica TRW 14200 2 ea $8.00  
Front Shocks PartsAmerica EDL-3366 2 ea $69.00 92-96 crown vic
Idler Arm PartsAmerica TRW 18751 1 ea $65.00  
Inner Tie Rod PartsAmerica TRW DS802 2 ea $67.00  
Lower Ball Joint PartsAmerica TRW10266 2 ea $48.00  
Outer Tie Rod PartsAmerica TRW ES439L 2 ea $27.00  
Pitman Arm PartsAmerica TRW 18776 1 ea $83.00  
Rear Coil Spring Insulators PartsAmerica   2 ea $5.00 Rubber, no poly avail
Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve PartsAmerica TRW ES426S 2 ea $25.00  
Upper Ball Joint PartsAmerica TRW10262 2 ea $35.00  
Front Spindles + Caliper Brackets Shulls wrecking   2 ea $45.00 72 T-bird, L+R (used)
Polyurethane Control Arm Bushing Kit SRP 4-3111 1 pr $26.00  
Polyurethane Front End Link Set SRP 9-8118 1 pr $15.00  
Polyurethane Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit SRP 9-5164 1 pr $16.00  
Polyurethane Strut Rod Bushing Kit SRP 4-7117 1 pr $15.00  
Polyurethane Tie Rod Boots SRP 9-13101 2 pr $3.00  
Front Sway Bar Kit - 1 1/4" Summit ACO-848G 1 ea $149.88  
Rear Shocks Summit EDL-3466 2 ea $75.00 92-96 crown vic
Rear Sway Bar Kit - 7/8" Summit ACO-938G 1 ea $149.88 http://www.addco.net/ - Power Steering Pump NAPA NPS206098 1 ea $52.99  
Rear shock lower mount bolt NAPA 6501100 2 ea $8.00 for 79 T-bird
Vaccum booster PartsAmerica 5473307 1 ea $97.00  
Fluid Cooler, Power Steering Summit PRM-1001  1 ea $31.88  
Power Steering Pulley Summit MCH-502 1 ea $67.88  
             
             
TOTAL         $2,305.33  


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 10-December-2010 at 5:35AM
"To bolt or not to bolt"

-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 10-December-2010 at 5:52AM
Some of these prices listed seem extremely high.

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 10-December-2010 at 5:59AM
It was a spreadsheet I had put together several years back and may or may not reflect what I actually purchased, from where and for how much. It was a plan I had put together. I think there was some actual variation in some of the parts.

Were there specific parts that seemed too high? I suppose I could go through and make a new chart based on Carl's research into Moog parts as the preferred since it seems we all agree Moog is the number one choice. Also I could get prices from Rock Auto if the Moog is available there, since they seem to be cheaper?


-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 10-December-2010 at 6:41AM
Rock Auto does have Moog, and seems to be cheapest

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 10-December-2010 at 6:44AM
I'll work on the spreadsheet this weekend. I need to update it anyway, because before I spend all that time to tear the front off my 75 to get the engine in, etc, I will go ahead and get new front suspension / steering in (and 460 coil springs).


-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 10-December-2010 at 6:55AM
I might be the only guy in the planet that likes small block springs with a big block, lol.



-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 10-December-2010 at 10:14AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

I might be the only guy in the planet that likes small block springs with a big block, lol.



To lower the front end I presume?


-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 10-December-2010 at 10:21AM
Yes.. That and I really had no complaints with the handling. Just use the larger front bar. 

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 18-December-2010 at 3:50PM
Anyone ever use PST products??
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PST-Original-Performance-Front-End-Kit-72-Ford-Lin-Merc-/200555379999?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1972%7CModel%3ATorino&hash=item2eb2083d1f - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PST-Original-Performance-Front-End-Kit-72-Ford-Lin-Merc-/200555379999?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1972%7CModel%3ATorino&hash=item2eb2083d1f
 
 


-------------
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: 302ford
Date Posted: 18-December-2010 at 4:03PM

That looks like a decent kit. I used all energy suspension pieces. I'm not to sure on how the price compares to the PST stuff but I have no complaints. I lubed them up when I installed them and they have never squeeked



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79 LTD II 408/TKO/3.7's

12.52 116.5mph. street tires


Posted By: fordpower
Date Posted: 19-December-2010 at 6:28AM
I mentioned this before I purchased my bushings springs etc from www. suspension.com email Sales@suspension.com phone #209 578 5101. They were very helpfull as for price I did not check around.They did mention some must be drilled or burned out as the metal insret does not come with all bushings.


Posted By: lynchster
Date Posted: 24-December-2010 at 9:16AM
Originally posted by cowboyupdjcarl cowboyupdjcarl wrote:

Anyone ever use PST products??
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PST-Original-Performance-Front-End-Kit-72-Ford-Lin-Merc-/200555379999?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1972%7CModel%3ATorino&hash=item2eb2083d1f - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PST-Original-Performance-Front-End-Kit-72-Ford-Lin-Merc-/200555379999?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1972%7CModel%3ATorino&hash=item2eb2083d1f
 
 
As a matter fact I am. I decided to go with their poly-graphite bushings front and rear. The only problem I ran into was the lack of bushings for the competition package rear upper control arms.
For now I'm prepping a standard set of upper control arms until I can figure something out. I talked to them about it and was told acquiring the "harris number" for the bushings would be ideal to come up with something to use. But I've had no luck so far.


-------------
Chuck
72 Gran Torino Sport
91 F-150


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 23-February-2011 at 8:03AM
Doing some more research for the suspension list.

Drag (center) link for 74-76:

DS901 or DS822? I see both in my searches? Which is the correct part?


-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 23-February-2011 at 8:04AM
Or a DS818 for 1974?

-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 23-February-2011 at 8:11AM
Wait, they made different pieces? 

-------------
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 23-February-2011 at 8:22AM
DS903 77-79?

I think 72/73 was somewhat different, but I did not know 74-up was, I thought they were all the same. I can't find a good reference to nail it down. Since the parts are only available on ebay, etc, it's tough to find.

I'll check NAPA's webpage. Might shed some light.


-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 23-February-2011 at 8:28AM
Searching through NAPA, I got 371 search results for "suspension and steering" for a 75 Torino.

Over half of those items were rags, safety (sun) glasses and other junk. Unbelievable.

Never did find a center link.

Napa is not what it used to be. I think they're selling to a different crowd nowadays or something.


-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 23-February-2011 at 9:07AM
Another question:

Brakes (hydraulic components)  -  Bendix or Raybestos Pro Grade?


-------------
Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 23-February-2011 at 9:36AM
I've got 76 Elite suspension  in my 78 *shrug*. 

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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 24-February-2011 at 7:21AM
Just bought a new TRW branded DS-822 off evilbay. We'll see what I get. It *apparently* is correct.

Wish I had a reference.


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Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: smhj
Date Posted: 02-November-2011 at 6:15AM
Ok I almost give up how do you get the core support bushing out? The nut is off and the bolt just spins. Does the metal sleve have threads? Burn it out pound it out?

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73MONTEGO


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 16-February-2014 at 1:03PM
Learned something new today that I thought I should pass along...
 
Months ago I picked up my suspension parts from the machine shop, he blasted them clean and installed all the new bushings for me. There was a problem with the upper control arm and bushings.
He installed the bushings with the shafts on the UCAs... the nut will not tighten down. Seems like the shaft all of a sudden shrunk?
Well that is true to a point!
The shaft did not shrink, but Ford lengthened the shaft March 15th 1972 to accomodate a longer bushing.
 
March 14th and before the bushing is 1.51" long
March 15th and after the bushing is 1.82" long
THAT explains why the bushing is not letting the nut tighten down.
So the UCAs that I used from the 72 Montego must have been built before March 14th.
So I have to go buy the right bushings.
 
I also ran into differences between the Center Link and the Inner Tie Rod End between the 72 Gran Torino and the 76 Elite. So I have to buy a couple new/different parts to totally rebuild the front end on LolaMae.


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Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 16-February-2014 at 1:37PM
I love 1972 parts!

I just got to thinkin that I'd like to upgrade my 72 spindles to use 74+ rotors, then I started thinkin caliper brackets for the larger diameter rotors, now we're all the way up to the shafts being different.... maybe???

what year / body would I look for to upgrade to regular parts with no mismatch confusion involved?

are the 1972 std diameter rotors a 1 trick pony? no other applications any other years?

figures I have 2 complete sets of probably all 1972 crap, needs to be checked out I guess but I'd rather start fresh with known popular & easy to find stuff. easy bushings & big brakes please

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72 GT Ute
   


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 17-February-2014 at 5:50AM
You can use your 72 spindles with the 72 wheel bearings, get 72 T-bird rotors and a caliper bracket from any 72-76 full size. Brake pads are the same.

That is a winning combination for larger front brakes with all factory parts. You get 1" larger rotor, and maintain your 5x4.5 wheel bolt pattern.


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Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 17-February-2014 at 7:31AM
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so the 74+ spindles don't get me large rotors because they're all 5x5, but they do get me cheap 10.7" rotors with my same caliper brackets
& slot vent rotors are an option and cheaper than 72 T-bird stock rotors. chit the 72 10.7" slot & vent rotors are cheaper than the stock 72 T-bird rotors

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

looks like another idea / project on hold-lock until winter blinks & I can bust all my components down & see what I actually have out there. both cars everything came from were 72's but at this late date anything can be possible

72 T-bird rotors & caliper brackets from 72-76 full size... why not 77+ with 11.8 rotors?


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72 GT Ute
   


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 17-February-2014 at 7:34AM
I am not sure about 77+ 11.8" rotors. I have heard about them, but have never seen them in person. I am also not sure that any 11.8" rotor on a mid-size would come with anything other than 5x5 bolt pattern from the factory (and I would envision this, if it exists, would be a police package thing?)


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Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 17-February-2014 at 10:00AM
you're right, looked at many 11.8 rotors & they're all 5x5

what I was asking is about the caliper brackets from 77+ vehicles that use 11.8 rotors

I'm not getting bitten by a multitude of caliper brackets available anywhere

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72 GT Ute
   


Posted By: Big Bird
Date Posted: 17-February-2014 at 10:18AM
The 77+ 11.8 caliper bracket is the same as the fullsize 11.8 bracket. The spindles 73-79 are the same as 73-78 fullsize. The calipers and pads are the same regardless if diameter.

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The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
1979 T-Bird
2006 GMC Sierra


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 17-February-2014 at 10:37AM
Were those police applications on the 77+ mid-size?


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Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: Big Bird
Date Posted: 17-February-2014 at 10:39AM
Police and Mark V

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The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
1979 T-Bird
2006 GMC Sierra


Posted By: 72FordGTS
Date Posted: 19-February-2014 at 4:01PM
Just a note for the differences in the 1972 Control arms. The early design was the same parts used on the 1965+ fullsize Fords. The shaft is also different depending on the bushing size. These weren't 1972 only parts, as the fullsize cars used them for many years previous. The same goes for the bolt on ball joints. The older fullsize cars also used this style of joint at times.

The 1972 parts aren't as rare as they first may seem.

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Vince

1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 19-February-2014 at 7:43PM
I saw a post that stated the control arms dated back into the mid 60's on full size, maybe it was just Energy Suspension that is discontinuing the early bushings?

can't remember where I rolled across that

I found a pair of caliper brackets for $100 each side with back shields...
$220 delivered and about the same for the rotors is a little rich for me today

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72 GT Ute
   


Posted By: unlovedford
Date Posted: 20-February-2014 at 12:08AM
This is great info for me because we're going to replace the drum setup on our 67 LTD with Torino discs. It appears that a lot of it will be bolt on. Thanks guys.

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Joe
1972 GTSquire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino       
1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous
Popeye and Brutus (Rams)


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 20-February-2014 at 5:16AM
use the 74+ spindle & you can have http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-PAIR-OF-PERFORMANCE-DRILLED-SLOTTED-ROTORS-PADS-OS1145-/131118201704?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1975%7CModel%3ATorino&hash=item1e8740fb68&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - slotted rotors for less than 1) 72 T-bird stocker shipped



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72 GT Ute
   


Posted By: Big Bird
Date Posted: 20-February-2014 at 11:11AM
Joe
The entire "knee assembly" swaps over for a disc brake conversion. Use torino upper control arm, lower control arm, shafts, and spindles. You MAY have to change your outer tie rod end. Swap in a disc master cylinder as well.
Not sure anymore about radius rods, I would check them for fit and condition. They like to rot in their bushings.

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The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
1979 T-Bird
2006 GMC Sierra


Posted By: 72FordGTS
Date Posted: 20-February-2014 at 12:13PM
Why would you have to change the control arms? The spindles should swap over with the stock LTD arms. The upper arms are identical to the early 1972 cars. And the ball joints are the same.

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Vince

1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car


Posted By: Big Bird
Date Posted: 20-February-2014 at 12:59PM
You probably could. We used to get the whole assembly and swap it. when we were doing this, torinos were fairly new and usually had good ball joints, bushings, etc. This kept all the parts single source for replacement down the road, and the ball joints LOOKED different so...


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The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
1979 T-Bird
2006 GMC Sierra


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 21-February-2014 at 10:33AM
clarify please;

1975 LTD spindles on a 72 Torino will use 74+ Torino 10.7" rotors

1975 LTD caliper brackets on 1972 Torino spindles will use 1972 T-bird 11.8" rotors

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72 GT Ute
   


Posted By: Big Bird
Date Posted: 21-February-2014 at 12:50PM
On a 1972 torino, a 1975 spindle will allow use of any big bearing rotor. (5x4.5 bolt pattern 10.7 rotors OR 5x5 bolt pattern 11.8 rotors)
spindles are the same as follows - 1973 up to 1978 in fullsize ford, 1973 to 1979 intermediate. (Reportedly SOME early 1973 models may use the earlier spindles/bearings)
caliper brackets from 1972-1976 Thunderbird/Mark IV, 1977-79 Mark V with 4 wheel disc, or 1973-1978 fullsize will bolt on and allow use of big rotors. If you use 1972 spindles, you can use 1972 thunderbird rotors and have a 5x4.5 bolt pattern.
1975 LTD caliper brackets will allow use of 1972 torino spindles with 1972 thunderbird rotors. (as would 1972 thunderbird caliper brackets)

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The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
1979 T-Bird
2006 GMC Sierra


Posted By: Rockatansky
Date Posted: 21-February-2014 at 1:21PM
I hope that's a Yes cuz I just pulled the trigger on these

%20" rel="nofollow - http://www.ebay.com/itm/181308663596?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

with my small brackets & 75 spindles I can run $30 rotors    

with the big brackets & 72 spindles I can run $120 rotors

so far I like this deal, Blueoval wants $220 for just the big brackets




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72 GT Ute
   


Posted By: carguy47
Date Posted: 31-July-2014 at 12:57PM
I did the same. Started with a hole-saw to loosen the rubber. Heated them with a torch and then sandblasted the sleeves. Inserted the poly bushings.


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You have to build em to drive em!



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