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Recondition/restore/replace AC components

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TV 2M8O View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02-January-2018 at 12:29PM
With the Torino nearing it's departure to the body shop, I've begun thinking about the subsystems I'll need to address while it's away and the one remaining major system that I'll need to attack is the AC.

My system (manual AC) was charged prior to being pulled and shipped to me (not sure if it was charged with R12 or 134A). I'd like to go back with the OEM components and R12 freon, so I'm hoping someone can tell me how to flush, clean, dry and check (pull a vacuum and watch for leak off) each component.

To be on the safe side, I'll have the compressor rebuilt.

I assume if the evaporator and the condenser/receiver will hold a vacuum that they are OK?

I have heard that the accumulator can be flushed out, dried and reused... is that correct and what is the proper procedure?

Would it be in my best interest to replace the expansion valve and the STV?

And lastly, new hoses will be made using the original fittings.

As always, I ask your forgiveness for my ignorance and value any suggestions and instructions any of you can send my way!

THANKS!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Power Surge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2018 at 2:21PM
If it's been converted to 134, it should have the conversion fittings screwed onto the original R12 fittings. They are aluminum and usually have a red cap on the high side and blue cap on the low side. Just google 134 conversion fittings for a visual. 

I've never leaked checked individual AC parts. But I would imagine you could use a MightyVac to check each part. Just make sure you have the ends sealed really well, so you don't think you have a leak when you don't. 

As for the accumulator, make sure you know which part that is.... On these cars it's a bit deceiving because our cars have a canister that LOOKS like a traditional accumulator right by the battery, but the accumulator is actually the long thin canister attached to the side of the condenser on the driver's side. I would highly recommend replacing that part. 

I wouldn't get too crazy with trying to flush anything. Unless the compressor has come apart and there is metal in the system. If not, it's not a big deal. Even if it's been converted to 134, those conversion kits usually come with an oil that's compatible with both types of freon. If you really want to clean it while it's all apart, you can clean it out with some brake cleaner.
Sal Mennella
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2018 at 3:00PM
Joe,
 I rebuilt my entire A/C system and went back with R12 due to it's performance in our system designed for R12. If wanting to change over to 134a and want to enjoy "almost" the same cooling effect, you will need to adjust the POA/STV AND install a parallel flow condenser(I personally haven't seen any aftermarket units exactly match the original condenser size and/or attaching points). I will say R12 is expensive and getting harder to find, but if originality and great cooling are what you are after, R12 is hard to beat.
 IMO, I would install a new expansion valve, new hoses, new HBNR O-rings, new liquid line, new accumulator and a new filter/drier for the condenser. A good flush of the condenser and evaporator core is the correct choice if a new/NOS pieces can't be found. I used lacquer thinner for my parts but a good quality a/c flush may be a better choice. You can test the POA/STV yourself with an air compressor and a set of a/c gauges(will also help in adjusting a POA if going to 134a)
 
DO NOT GET RID OF THE POA/STV set-up if you are using the same type of original compressor/clutch, if going to a cycling switch type of set-up(hollowed out tube where the POA was), will cause clutch failure. These older compressors/clutches were NOT designed to be continuously cycled on and off.
 
Do yourself a favor and fab up a heat shield for the evaporator case and place self adhesive heat shielding on the box as well, header heat WILL melt the box(ask me how I know). As far as checking the system once assembled, you can use compressed air using a desiccant filter to fill the system(with oil already added) to 100psi with "dry" air and then spray each joint with soap/water mix to check for bubbles. Once all good, SLOWLY release the air at the highest Schrader valve so not to lose the oil then you can start to pull a vacuum to verify system "tightness".
Hopefully this will help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmaxtorino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2018 at 7:00PM
I have some r 12 cans I would sell, but you can't ship it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2018 at 9:29AM
Originally posted by Power Surge Power Surge wrote:

As for the accumulator, make sure you know which part that is.... On these cars it's a bit deceiving because our cars have a canister that LOOKS like a traditional accumulator right by the battery, but the accumulator is actually the long thin canister attached to the side of the condenser on the driver's side. I would highly recommend replacing that part.

According to the Ford parts catalog, the Accumulator is beside the battery and the Dehydrator/Receiver is the tank mounted to the Condenser....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2018 at 10:40AM
i thought an accumulator system and a receiver/drier system are 2 different animals?
 
both serve basically the same purpose but both never occur in the same system ...
 
a receiver/drier system uses a thermal expansion valve with a constant compressor
 
and the accumulator system uses an orifice tube with a cycling compressor
 
a mystery bulge canister in the line may be a muffler


Edited by Rockatansky - 03-January-2018 at 10:41AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Power Surge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2018 at 11:21AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

i thought an accumulator system and a receiver/drier system are 2 different animals?
 
both serve basically the same purpose but both never occur in the same system ...
 
a receiver/drier system uses a thermal expansion valve with a constant compressor
 
and the accumulator system uses an orifice tube with a cycling compressor
 
a mystery bulge canister in the line may be a muffler

Generally, you have an accumulator if you have an orifice tube. And you have a drier if you have an expansion valve. 

Both parts do the same thing... remove excess moisture from the system. However, an accumulator also stores some liquid freon in it as well, which is why it's a large canister and a drier is typically a thin tube. 

I believe our cars have both... the part on the condenser is the drier with the desiccant bag in it, and the accumulator over by the battery is the storage tank. In other words, modern accumulator systems do both of those jobs in the large accumulator, whereas on our cars they split the work into two separate parts. 
Sal Mennella
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75 Cougar XR7
73 Ranchero - 5.0 Coyote swap - in progress
Past Torinos - 72 Gran Torino, 75 Gran Torino, 75 Elite
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