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Seized distributor?

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Montego01 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Montego01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Seized distributor?
    Posted: 16-April-2014 at 12:24PM
I'm taking my 429 apart and I cannot for the life of me even budge the distributor. Of course the little clamp/bolt is off, I've pried on it with a crow bar, hammered on it and it just will not budge (even back and forth as if you were timing the motor).
Any ideas or suggestions to remove this from the block?
I've even sprayed PB on it.


Scott
72 Montego GT 429 build thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-April-2014 at 12:44PM
i had a chev sb like that many years ago took several days of screwing with it , it was caused by super sludged up motor, i think i finally used a large pipe wrench to turn it, once i got it to move a little i kept spraying penetrating fluid down in it and just kept working it a little at a time then pulling it out was just as bad, kept spaying the stuff in there and working it, you might try a LITTLE heat on the base and let it soak in, respray and try to move it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Montego01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-April-2014 at 10:35PM
Thanks John...I'll try the heat idea.
I sprayed penetrating fluid on it and it's been sitting all night. Maybe that will also help.

You would have thought a 3' pry bar would have loosened it from the get-go.
The motor doesn't look too bad

Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-April-2014 at 11:14PM
There was a thread on this subject and a few members had posted their ideas on how to free a seized distributor. It should give you some more good ideas. You can find it here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-April-2014 at 5:30AM
If you get the axle shaft remover attachment for a slide hammer, from AZ, it fits the distributor perfectly. i used this to get the distributor out of my cleveland.
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Montego01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-April-2014 at 5:49AM
Man, I can't believe this thing. I even used a engine hoist with a strap wrapped around the distributor AND used 3' pry bar. Lifted the motor up and it still didn't budge,
May just have to wait until I get to the bottom end and get it from the bottom. 
The distributor is now officially destroyed LOL

I'll check with my shop neighbor and see if he has one of those shaft remover tools.
That may work if I can get enough room under that sleeve.

At least I'm doing the complete motor
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-April-2014 at 6:20AM
Originally posted by Montego01 Montego01 wrote:

Man, I can't believe this thing. I even used a engine hoist with a strap wrapped around the distributor AND used 3' pry bar. Lifted the motor up and it still didn't budge,
 
That is just crazy!? Best of luck...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skinnys Garage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-April-2014 at 7:31AM
Had this trouble with an early 460. In my case, the very end of the distributor shaft (below the gear) galled in the block. Distributor would turn from the top, but not come up. Ended up working from the bottom, but cracked the block on the way out because it had grown "fat" from the galling. Not sure what would have prevented the damage to the block, but please go into this with caution. Had several Clevelands freeze the distributor up top, but this was something I hadn't run into before.
Scott -'73 Gran Torino Brougham

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-April-2014 at 8:18AM
What about cutting it flush at the top and popping what is left out the bottom? Is there room?
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skinnys Garage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-April-2014 at 8:50AM
I found this page showing the spot I ran into trouble. It's the area of the block at the bottom of the distributor that galled on mine. The very thin part of the block cracked when I was "tapping" the shaft out.
http://ryanbrownracing.com/Bill_Jones_Page_8.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Montego01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-April-2014 at 12:52PM
Well, I tried again with the engine hoist with a couple of my 'hot rod' guys next store helping me out prying on the distributor, and the top of the distributor completely threaded off. I about had the engine off the ground.

Sooo, it appears that will need to just leave that be and since I have it on an engine stand, I will just disassemble and take a look from the bottom.
They to also haven't seen anything like this and one both are heavy into street and hot rods. one is 70. I'm currently painting the frame of his 32 Ford.

Hope I dont damage the block as I plan on using the D1 block for my build.

So it sounds like the distributor has 'welded ' itself to the block.
Keep in mind, I bought this car about 8.5 months ago (see my build thread in my Sig link) and it had been sitting for 5 years without starting. I did get it started the day I bought it, and it ran great, but I didn't mess with the distributor.
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-April-2014 at 3:29PM
Try this:

Drill a couple of small holes around the shaft base but not into the block. Squirt a generous amount of Kroil around and into the base. Tap all around it gently every so often while adding more Kroil. Do this for a day or two and it may come loose.
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Montego01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-April-2014 at 10:09PM
I'm really not for sure how fare the lip of the block goes under the distributor base? There is no gap to be seen. thanks for the tip though Joe.

Think I'll just take the bottom apart or the front and see what's there.
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-April-2014 at 12:25AM
Good luck! At this point, with everything else you have tried, have you thought about getting a couple of priests (or rabbis, preachers, shamens....) to come over and "lay hands" on the darn thing while you try and pry it out? lol
Make sure you let us know where it looked like it was fused together after you do finally get it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-April-2014 at 3:14AM
I just went through the same thing with my engine (my original posted is linked). Mine too was seized rock solid, but I didn't want to pull the engine to pound it from the bottom out, since I don't have the funds to redo my engine now. I ended up rigging up a slide hammer with a puller I had in my shop. Once I clamped the puller tight to the head of the distributor, the pounding action has able to break the corrosion seal free. I was actually able to not do too much damage to the distributor in the end (although it is in need of a complete rebuild). It's amazing how strong that bi-metallic corrosion can be.

From the sounds of it, you won't be able to do that since you broke yours. The key is though, pulling doesn't seem to work. You need to get some hammer action on it to break that corrosion seal.

My local speed shop engine guy, recently built a 351M for a late 70's pickup F-150 4x4 that had the same issue. Once he had the block disassembled he was able to pound it out from the bottom up. He said even then it was difficult. This might be the best way for your 429 now since you are disassembling it anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Montego01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-April-2014 at 3:46AM
Originally posted by kychevyguy kychevyguy wrote:

Good luck! At this point, with everything else you have tried, have you thought about getting a couple of priests (or rabbis, preachers, shamens....) to come over and "lay hands" on the darn thing while you try and pry it out? lol
Make sure you let us know where it looked like it was fused together after you do finally get it out.
 

lol, can't say I've thought of that.

Vince, I wish a slide hammer would have done the trick. You would have thought that using an engine hoist with a strap wrapped around the distributor would have done it. I about had the front wheels of the engine stand off the ground. 
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Montego01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2014 at 12:09AM
Got the motor completely apart. 
Ended up taking the distributor out from the bottom using the oil pump drive and a good air chisel.
No evidence of it welding itself to the block. That sucker was just stuck.
Soooo, it looks like no harm done.
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2014 at 2:31AM
Lot of trouble, but at least good news was the outcome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2014 at 3:19AM
It is sometimes amazing what a little bit of moisture/electrolysis will do when aluminum meets cast iron. At least you won't have to ask yourself whether or not if you want to re-use the factory distributor . Glad to hear you were finally able to remove it with no block damage occurring. Todd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2014 at 10:45AM
Spark grounding out inside distributor can fuse them nicely.
Glad it came out without damage to the block.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Montego01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2014 at 10:42PM
Yea, glad it didn't ruin the block. 
I'll be looking for another distributor though.
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2014 at 5:35AM
Just trip on over to Autozone. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2014 at 6:08AM
Originally posted by Montego01 Montego01 wrote:

I'll be looking for another distrubutor.
Originally posted by mcford mcford wrote:

Just trip on over to Autozone. 
 
They have three different Types of Distrubutors available for your Vehicle, you can find them here.
 


Edited by dave302 - 22-April-2014 at 6:28AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Montego01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2014 at 9:00AM
Thanks for the help (and link) guys. Didn't realize their were 3 different styles.

Scott
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Your Welcome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2014 at 9:46AM
There are more than three types available, if you look at other companies and vendors. But many of these other distributors use a different distributor cap and spark plug wires than you are using now.
 
Some of these companies and vendors will probably prefer that you upgrade to an electronic ignition conversion kit, that they sell. Or maybe some of these distributors already have the conversion kit built into them. And then you just plug the distributor wires into your regular wires on your engine (if the wire connector is exactly the same). You can find many of those distributors here.
 
You can also narrow your search down to your exact make, model and year of your vehicle. But there are less distributors that are available there. You can see those distributors here.


Edited by dave302 - 22-April-2014 at 10:40AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2014 at 10:24AM
There are more distributors available from another company that sells some other different brands, but some of these other distributors use a different distributor cap and spark plug wires than you are using now.
Some of these distributors might have an electronic ignition conversion kit already built into them, and some of them might even still use points. You will probably have to purchase different spark plug wires if you install one of these other distributors. 
You can find those other distributors here.
 
 


Edited by dave302 - 22-April-2014 at 10:47AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2014 at 12:09PM
you want the single vacuum not the double vacuum which takes you down to two choices which are a remanufactured or a brand new distributor, both of single vacuum.  So really there are only two syles with one having to options (new or reman) and the other being a reman only. Buy the reman, drop in a pertronix or crane electronic conversion and be done.
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