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Steel vs rubber fuel lines

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rudy52397 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rudy52397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Steel vs rubber fuel lines
    Posted: 11-October-2014 at 2:12PM
We've had our 73' for a few years and I've noticed something on the underbody, I see the end of the original metal fuel line near the sender unit on the back with nothing connected to it, instead someone ran an entire rubber line from the sending unit to the pump. The line to the carb etc. is still the original steel one, but I was wondering which would be better? We took it out today and it didn't stall, but the other day it did (see my other post). I was thinking about replacing the line from the tank to pump anyway one day. Stainless steel from dearborn classics is $119.99, any opinions on why someone would do this (before we got the car about 4 years ago), and would you recommend steel or rubber? What do you guys have on yours? Original 302.
-Rudy
1973 Gran Torino, 2 door hardtop, 302, original Ivy glow paint
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-October-2014 at 2:41PM
stainless would definitely be the way to go! someone probably replaced the steel line due to it rusting, especially you guys that are in the salt belt. the rubber (actually it's neoprene) will eventually get old and hard or just deteriorate
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend onirot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-October-2014 at 5:02PM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

someone probably replaced the steel line due to it rusting 

what he said
---------------------
malcolm
1973 gran torino sport (formal)... "Stacy Lynn"
1972 gran torino (formal)... "Mackenzie"
1973 gran torino sport (sportroof)... "Leela"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2014 at 3:57AM
That rubber line will deteriorate with today's ethanol gas...
Metal is a better idea, and the rubber sections should be modern rubber that is more ethanol resistant.
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2014 at 6:13AM
http://www.fuelhose.org/oil-hose/fuel-injection-hose.html
you'll still want to use the fluoroelastomer hose for the flex connections at the sender & pump
if it's not this type of rated hose it won't last a season before it's hard as a rock & cracking,
the older type rated hoses are like cheesecloth when ethanol goes through them
 
you may not need injection pressure strength but it won't hurt either


Edited by Rockatansky - 12-October-2014 at 6:13AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2014 at 6:36AM
Summit carries several excellent fuel line hoses, varying materials etc. I like steel lines too, but flexible high end fuel line is common to find in tons of street vehicles. I plan to replace all of my 98 SUV system with them, and include bigger fuel filter, fittings etc. The cost per foot is the issue, how much is it worth for each choice.
Don

73 Ranchero with a 72 Sport front end, parked since 1990
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2014 at 6:52AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-October-2014 at 7:39AM
I buy all of my steel lines from InLineTube.com and they have always been outstanding.

Word of caution on the fuel line however - running that bastard all the way back and up over the wheel well is a challenge. You could break the line right before the wheel well and that would make it easier to install. I am assuming the body is not off the frame at this time.

That process was one I struggled with. In the end I got it done, a far better mechanic could have accomplished it without too much problem.

A material more formable like regular steel or NiCopp would have made the job over the wheel well easier, although I always appreciate pre-bent lines from InLineTube.

If you have some line bending skills, and are not afraid to tackle the problem using straight line, then I'd recommend NiCopp as the ultimate solution. The stuff is literally hand formable, but strong and corrosion resistant (developed by Volvo). The link Rockatansky has is what I used a year ago to buy some. It really is good stuff.
Scott Eklund

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-October-2014 at 1:38PM
That 3/8" brake line must be going on some huge vehicle, LOL.

My local hydraulics business carries a flexible brake line which is a brass/copper color. I wonder if it's that same Nicopp stuff. I used this here to make a front line for a friend's car that had an end seize up. The place here said it was legal and originated in Australia. I'm hoping to use it for my Ranchero, and to reroute the lines of my Mercury that run next to the exhaust.
Don

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-October-2014 at 7:52AM
YES, ITS THAT nIcOPP STUFF.  
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-October-2014 at 10:42AM
Not supposed to rust Thumbs Up
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
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rudy52397 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rudy52397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-September-2017 at 4:36PM
Probably having the fuel line replaced on my 1973 Gran Torino soon. I’m going to get a stainless one from Macs/Dearborn Classics which I believe is made by inline tube. How many clips will I need? Also is there also a fuel vapor return line on ‘73 Torino’s? If so I’d like to have that replaced too but all I see is one for a 1972 Torino and it’s OE Steel.

Edited by rudy52397 - 26-September-2017 at 4:36PM
-Rudy
1973 Gran Torino, 2 door hardtop, 302, original Ivy glow paint
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-September-2017 at 4:51PM
i don't remember how many clips? 6??? not sure if 73's had the vapor line 74's did you'd have to look on the passenger side frame near the alternator
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote changinlatitudes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-September-2017 at 1:06AM
Good job of thread revival! The 73 I recently took down to the frame had the return line. It runs down the passenger side.
Matt

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-September-2017 at 3:18AM
Hello All.

Another option here.

I have replaced the entire fuel system in the last 2 Intermediates I have resurrected, My 1976 Monarch, and a FOX Mustang that I converted to carb from FI.

In both instances (of the 72 / 73 Montegos), they had sat for a long periods of time requiring replacement of the tank, the sender and the hard lines. The Mustang was just butchered to no end, and it was easier to replace what was left instead of repair it.

I used Speedway 3/8 aluminum line on all 4 cars.

It comes in rolls of differing lengths, it is VERY easy to form, bend, and flare. It is cheap too.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Fuel-Line-3-8-Inch-OD,1633.html?sku=91011430-20

Thanks, Mike H.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-September-2017 at 5:17AM
That's very inexpensive stuff! Much cheaper than NiCopp or a replacement pre-bent line.

I know there are some concerns with fuel and/or brake fluid and pure copper line (which is why NiCopp was developed by Volvo in the 60's to begin with), but I assume Aluminum is safe.

I've been pretty happy with NiCopp - it is really easy to form (like Al would be I imagine), almost too easy - when I'm flaring ends I have to be careful not to deform it too much. You get so used to steel and especially stainless steel you really reef on the flaring tool but with NiCopp you've got to be delicate almost (at least with the 3/16 brake line).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rudy52397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-September-2017 at 6:29AM
I’m also probably going to rebuild the carburetor soon too, i’ve already had a new fuel sender unit installed but the gauge still reads wrong sometimes. The gas tank is original and has the US Steel stamp still which can hardly be seen. The original fuel line is rotted though and someone did bypass with a bigger rubber line, I’ll have to check if the return line is rotted too, it probably is. I’ve been thinking about a fuel pump too since it’s cheap but the original Carter one still works. A carb rebuild and new lines are the next things I’m probably going to do though, also thinking of trans lines since they’re rusted and leaking.

Edited by rudy52397 - 27-September-2017 at 6:30AM
-Rudy
1973 Gran Torino, 2 door hardtop, 302, original Ivy glow paint
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