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INFO: Tubular Upper Control Arms

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simon455 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simon455 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: INFO: Tubular Upper Control Arms
    Posted: 14-May-2018 at 5:58AM
i was eyeing their site, could not see a ford bolt in ball joint? any chance you gotta part number?
Don't belive you need drop spindles, im usning the cvpi front springs with 3/4 of coil cut and car is just 
sitting low enough to cover the top of the tire, mind you its a 275 35 19 on a 9.5' rim in the front, stance is really good...
72 pro touring fastback
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-May-2018 at 5:51AM
I got mine from
http://howeracing.com/

I also figured out a way to use Chrysler lowers in our OEM lower arm to use their extended length lowers.  I haven't really decided on what I want to do regarding the geometry changes.   I was looking at Fatman drop spindles and using 1/2 to 1" extended uppers.   If I stick with stock spindles I was thinking of going +1 extended lower balljoints to lower the car.  

I got my uppers from howe....I'm not sure if they have anymore in stock.


-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simon455 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-May-2018 at 5:44AM
does anyone know where i could find taller upper ball joint for the littleshop a arms?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-March-2018 at 6:31AM
Still waiting to do mine. Having the GTS on stands the last 6 months has not helped things much :(

Side note, Pure Vision has a few things on the GTS about things they did. One specifically was the strut rod was sleeved with DOM tubing to stiffen it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chris5769 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2018 at 4:51AM
Bought a set of the LittleShop A-arms.  Excited to get them on the car.  I decided not to do the coil over setup and stick with CVPI springs.  Thanks for the input.  This forum is a wealth of info
Cheers,

Chris

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chris5769 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-February-2018 at 1:33AM
I did not really pay attention to the mounting point.  Thanks very much for pointing that out.  I am glad I posted the question before pulling the trigger.  That is more work than I want to put into it.  I am going to buy the tubular A arms however.  Based on the feedback I see in the thread, they look to be an effective upgrade
Cheers,

Chris

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2018 at 2:39AM
Good pics...I knew the rear was a custom 4 link set up (i believe it was from Art Morrison).

That was helpful for the front lower arm.  They boxed the LCA but I didn't realize that the mount was different from teh stock shock style.   I have seen that you can buy off-the-shelf mounts and brackets.  That may be an option....here is a reference
https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/collections/coilover-shock-tabs

This looks interesting for the rear...
https://www.cachassisworks.com/site_images/58XX/5824-XXX/5824-A10/5824-A10_weld-on_PRKR.jpg

All require some welding and modifications to the mounts and arms.
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-February-2018 at 2:45PM

The Pure Vision setup was a little different than this one, but it's nice to see there are more parts on the market for our Torinos.  You can see the rear suspension is totally changed, while the front suspension has the lower part of the coilover mounted not using the shock bolt holes.  You can see the reinforcement they added and the coilover mounts to that.
 
Here are some pics of the Pure Vision car's suspension:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



Edited by 72FordGTS - 02-February-2018 at 2:54PM
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-February-2018 at 10:19AM
Yup...have to reinforce the mounting area.   The pure vision torino used stock lower arms; reinforced the mounting area for coil-overs.   There are some pics somewhere on the internet where you can see some of the work they did for reference.     

yup...your right though...definitely need to strengthen up that lower mount
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Power Surge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-February-2018 at 10:11AM
wow that's kind of scary. That setup puts the entire weight of the vehicle on two little half inch lower shock screws....
Sal Mennella
73 GTS 351 CJ
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73 Ranchero - 5.0 Coyote swap - in progress
Past Torinos - 72 Gran Torino, 75 Gran Torino, 75 Elite
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-February-2018 at 7:01AM
Very cool....this is the first coil over kit I've seen for the 72+ Torino.

How do they compare with Vari-shok coil overs?
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chris5769 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-February-2018 at 6:20AM
Has anyone used the Viking Crusader front coil over/rear shock set?  I have seen these on eBay and they look like they would provide good performance and ride height adjustability.  Thoughts?
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Chris

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-January-2018 at 6:51AM
Thanks, it's great to hear some feedback.  We were able to get somewhere around 4 or 5 degrees of caster with stock arms, so I am assuming these once could go well beyond that if one desired?
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-January-2018 at 12:33PM
Nice to hear some good feedback on the arms.   
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Power Surge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-January-2018 at 11:06AM
Just a quick note here... since I am selling the Ranchero, I swapped the little shop arms over to my Torino and then aligned the car. They weren't kidding...those arms gave me 5-6 degrees of caster. I do a lot of highway driving back and forth to work, so more caster is very welcome. I must say, the car feels much more stable at 70-80 mph, and the biggest difference is it no longer twitches to one side or the other over bumps at speed. 
Sal Mennella
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2017 at 3:34PM
IIRC the 72 shafts are shorter and don't leave enough exposed threads for the nuts?
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Power Surge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2017 at 2:32PM
I did not get any directions with my arms, and I have a 73. I did not notice anything special about using the 73 shafts, they worked fine.
Sal Mennella
73 GTS 351 CJ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2017 at 2:27PM
Both cross shafts will bolt to the chassis. The lengths are different for some reason. I don't remember why or in what way. When I switched my pre 73 arms out for later ones I remember the bushing being easier to install with the longer shafts but that's all.
-Billy Conturo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-September-2017 at 9:11PM
Question for those who've used these or know something about this.
I'm quoting from Little Shop's instructions
"Please note that there are 2 different lengths on the factory cross-shafts for these cars. The shorter cross-shaft (72 and
early 73) will leave a small amount of thread unused in the end of the nut. It is preferable to use the longer cross-shafts
if possible."

Would using the longer cross shaft on a 72 cause any issues? Would using the stock 72 shaft cause any issues?

Not sure why I am asking, but since I am working again I can't get these arms off of my mind. Might make a good Christmas present. Wink

Thanks,
Russ

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-September-2017 at 3:52PM
Originally posted by Nuggets Nuggets wrote:

The lack of available brake upgrades needs to be sorted first, I'm looking at making brackets up for AP solid callipers onto the stock upright, hopefully, they can just be laser cut in pieces and welded together.....if not I may have to look at machining something on the mill, but that would be the single biggest improvement for these cars IMO 

I have Porsche cayenne 6 pistons up front on a massive (14" I think) rotor. The pads are off the shelf, the rotor is off the shelf, and the caliper is off the shelf. The only thing needed to be made was the bracket. It's all water jetted and welded 4130 steel. I even have rev 2 ready to crank out if I ever feel like it. I have the entire unsprung into CAD but it's buried deep in the depths of my hard drive somewhere at this point. The 6 pots stop like a race car. They can outperform my driving skill by a long shot. I could crank out a few sets of brackets but they would cost $600 a set for just the brackets and hardware. Custom low volume things are expensive especially when engineering time is involved. If I felt like my car needed those upper arms I would pay the $600 in a heartbeat.  What my car needs is someone with time to keep testing and tuning it which I have none of right now. After that, it needs a better driver. 

I think LittleShop did us a huge favor trying to make a few sets to sell at any price.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-June-2017 at 6:07PM
I would think that Hotchkis Galaxy parts bolted on and worked on our cars that they would advertise them as such. Would really increase their sales I'd imagine.
Hoping to be proved wrong, but I can't be the one to finance the experiment though.
Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-June-2017 at 2:22PM
If they're still available once I get my payslip I might take the risk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-June-2017 at 11:55PM
Yup...already bought the CVPI springs sitting with my pile of suspension parts waiting for install.  I'll take you advice...try it out first then decide.  I'm holding off finishing the suspension until I'm done painting the car.   

Sorry to derail the thread...back to A-arms.   If anyone buys those Hotchkis A-arms; would like to hear what you think of them...
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-June-2017 at 3:32PM
John are you still planning on using CVPI springs in the front? If so, I'd recommend trying the car with those springs and a 1 1/8 bar first before you go to all the work of a custom splined bar. Once you get your springs then I'd play with the bars if you need too. With the heavy front Springs in my car in had no issues with oversteer unless I induced it even with the heavier rear springs. I since soften my rear springs for ride and because it was skipping one rough pavement. The car is very flat in the front with the CVPI springs.

Edited by 72FordGTS - 22-June-2017 at 3:33PM
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-June-2017 at 2:36PM
I'm prolly overthinking it...Analysis paralysis...

I just need to finish it and drive it...see where I'm at then adjust.
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-June-2017 at 10:52AM
So, welding up the cracks in the sway bar on my truck ("Quality" G. M.) was a bad idea???
Some considerations for a sway bar:
Width hole-to-hole
Mounting location
"arm" length
vertical offset from mounting location to hole location


Edited by Big Bird - 22-June-2017 at 10:57AM
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-June-2017 at 8:54AM
Every sway bar I've looked at to "adapt" has not worked out because of the overall width of the mounting points on our torino's.   If you dont land near the same realative mounting points with the "new" bar it causes other interference problems.   That said...I measure stock eye-to-eye front sway bar at 49 1/4", arm length ~12", frame mounts speration at ~38 1/2".   I haven't found anything that will come close.   I did find some more modern bars say from a 2002 camaro or late model charger but the mounting are completely different where they dont use the same stud through an eye on the bar end mounting configuration.

EDIT If my memory serves me...I think the Galaxy bars are 48" eye-to-eye center which is to far off to be able to reuse on a Torino.  I keep coming back to a custom splined setup for the front.

I always felt teh body plows to much in the turns...I want to control the body roll more to help limit the suspension range under compression to optimize the camber gain.  If you add to much rear bar it will oversteer like crazy...I've already tested this with bigger rear bar and stiffer rear springs.  That backend breaks loose way to easy around a corner.

 Trying to keep the balance front to rear I wanted to control it more with the front bar rather than the rear bar.   I've already put the 7/8 rear bar on...and I feel it helped overall but it made the back end break loose quickly relative to the overall body roll.  

Thats why I'm thinking a good overall combination would be a 1 3/8" front with the 7/8" rear.   If you look at what some suspension kits offered for chevelles (The are not exact but pretty close in size/weight to our car. I did a analytical comparison via spreadsheet between chevelle/torino for comparison between springs/bars and basic suspension geometry) they tend to be in this ballpark for performance street setups.

Oh...also regarding cutting welding up sway bars.  I dont think that it would be a good idea to do that because they are made from spring steel.   Heating it up would wreck the properties of the steel.   Sway bars are also (or should be) heat treated.   Any heat applied would ruin them.

Double up sway bar!  didn't think of that.  How did that work?  


Edited by BackInBlack - 22-June-2017 at 8:58AM
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-June-2017 at 5:39AM
John, I can check the parts catalog later to see if the bars are interchangeable. I thought that they wouldn't swap, going by memory. 
 
Why do you want to go so big in the front?  Personally I'd like to find a bigger than 7/8's rear bar before I upgraded the front.
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-June-2017 at 12:35PM
can't find a bigger bar? or hate to spend the $$$? do what i did on my celica (and my ford courier too) with a little ingenuity and fab work... double stack two stock bars Wink

JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-June-2017 at 10:26AM
I would think the best option might be to find something that'll bolt up to the existing points if widened, then weld in some chromoly tubing to widen it?
Barnaby

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