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    Posted: 12-May-2015 at 1:59AM
Good morning all,
 
  I am a new member looking for information on a set of 429 heads I have installed.  There is a small oblong port center way of the intake side of the head.  I am using an aftermarket Intake an edelbrock RPM 7166.  It does not cover these holes.  They are I assume for some type emmission control.  Can any one tell me what they are for, and second the best way to close them off.  The gasket set I have covers them but I believe I have a vacuum leak there because there is nothing covering that portion of the gasket to seal it to the head.  Thanks. 
Ryan Mack
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 7:53AM
Ryan, show us some pics.
We will definitely help you with all the info you need.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 7:55AM
He's on about the heat exchanger, just use a piece of cut up coke can 

You wont get a vac leak there if the rest of the gasket has sealed up as only the intake ports themselves will cause that 
Barnaby

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sandy Run Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 8:34AM
I don't know where they go but I do know when starter fluid is sprayed there the engine will race.  So I believe I do have a vacuum leak there.  This is a newly assembled engine all new parts and clean surfaces assembled on an engine stand.  New felpro gaskets.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sandy Run Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 8:35AM
Is there a specific gasket that I need to be using for this specific head?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sandy Run Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 9:02AM
 photo cb34992f-7f50-4ec9-8de6-d452aadd46f4_zpsowpnwzhx.jpg
 
 
The oblong void above the crossover port to the left of the bolt hole
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote orlnslloyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 10:38AM
probably talking about the small hole above the exhaust crossover. not a problem as it does not go anywhere. PI in the center.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sandy Run Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 11:14AM
Yes!!!! That is the one. I have PI heads. I looked really close when I assembled the engine. I didn't think they went anywhere but like I said when presented with starter fluid in that spot the engine races up. Any suggestions? Engine runs great at or above 1200 rpm but will not idle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 11:21AM
now show us a pic of the intake sitting on the motor in that area.
 
and/or a pic of the intake from that side.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sandy Run Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 2:55PM
I will post a picture tomorrow. Is this a common problem when using these heads?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 5:09PM
sure sounds like a vacuum leak, how do the gaskets match up with all the ports? maybe try blowing air into that hole and see where it comes out (i'm guessing into one or more of the intake runners in the head???)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2015 at 5:30PM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

sure sounds like a vacuum leak, how do the gaskets match up with all the ports? maybe try blowing air into that hole and see where it comes out (i'm guessing into one or more of the intake runners in the head???)
 
Yeah that's why I was asking for pics.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sandy Run Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-May-2015 at 12:45AM
I was wondering what is the prefered method for finding vacuum leaks.  The engine racing as I spray starter fluid could easily be the result of it being drawn into the carb as the engine was running at a higher RPM.  I have heard of spraying the starter fuild into a shop rag and appling it directly to a specific area.  Any other suggestions on looking for vacuum leaks? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-May-2015 at 3:03AM
a) Have you torqued the heads to manifold at spec and using the correct gasket

b) was the manifold second hand or new

c) are you sure its a vac leak from the manifold to head and not carb to manifold?

d) are you sure you've set timing, covered holes on the carb, used or blanked the rear carb and inlet vac take off port


d I ask because I forgot to block off a port on my carb and was wondering why it would idle but wouldn't rev....turns out I'd pinched the plug to block something else off on another engine and forgotten to replace it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sandy Run Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-May-2015 at 4:01AM

The engine was assembled by me using torque specifications and patterns from the Haynes Shop manual I have for that year engine. The engine is completely blueprinted all new internal parts the rotating assemble was balanced by NAPA machine shop here in Columbia SC. Every part in that engine was individually measured to ensure proper tolerances. I ordered a FelPro gasket set from Summit Racing for the engine all new. The intake is a Edelbrock RPM model 7166 it is not new but was when I initially installed it 6 years ago. All bolts were torqued down with a CDI certified wrench 3/8 drive on the small fasteners and a 1/2 on the mains and head bolts. All torqued bolts were done so using a three step method 50%, 75%, 100%. The Carburetor has only three vacuum ports all of them are closed off. The vacuum connections on the intake are closed as well. Timing is difficult to set as I can’t get the thing to run under 1500 rpm's.

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-May-2015 at 5:05AM
Pretty thorough, I would say. Try WD-40 and see if it makes a difference in the rpm. WD does not put out quite as volatile a mist as carb cleaner and it will stay-put a bit better to better ID a problem area. That port should not be active, unless someone massaged a bit too much somewhere and created a small opening.

Also, make sure the carb base/body is not warped. Holley carbs had a reputation years back for warping. Also, years ago a buddy of mine rebuilt his carb. Cleaned it all up and decided to polish it as well. He ended up taking minute amounts of the base, body, shafts material off just enough to cause a plethora of issues. Swapped the carb, used a thicker base gasket and fixed it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-May-2015 at 8:47AM
When assembled which Fel-pro intake gaskets did you use, there are a few variables for a Ford 429-460 intake gaskets. IIRC, the PI's intake and exhaust ports were sized in between a DOOE-R and a DOVE-C cylinder head, this and the fact that the PI heads are fairly rare, finding a correctly fitting set of intake gaskets my be difficult to find. I know on the factory SCJ heads the end intake ports have the end valve cover bolts protrude into the port, leaving the valve cover bolts loose or out causes a lean and/or higher than normal idle condition, just not sure if the PI heads have the same issue. I had a '75 460 PI a long time ago, but didn't fully check the heads out before I sold it. Good luck. Todd

Edited by aquartlow - 13-May-2015 at 8:48AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-May-2015 at 11:01AM
Only way to know anything for sure is.
1. Take off the intake
2. Put the gasket against the head and look if it fits right(take pics for us)
3. Put the same gasket against the intake and do the same.
This will verify the gasket is sealing and matching the ports on the head and makes sure the intake is mating up proper too.

Do this AFTER you use something like WD-40 or some carb cleaner to verify it is leaking right there where you are seeing it. That will tell you where the leak is.
Once the intake is off you should be able to ensure the intake is all good, not cracked and the surface is smooth/not damaged and sealing properly.




1. Take the intake off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sandy Run Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-May-2015 at 11:08PM
I spoke to the folks at Edelbrock yesterday. I have been advised by them to use a specific gasket they make for the intake head combo I am using. They also strongly advised not using the end rubber gaskets but to use RTV. Per their tech line using the gaskets can cause the intake to sit to high resulting in it not seating properly against the cylinder heads. I am planning to dry fit the intake using just the intake gaskets no end gaskets and see how it looks prior to applying the RTV. I will post pics later. Thanks for the advice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-May-2015 at 10:37AM
Originally posted by Sandy Run Sandy Run wrote:

I spoke to the folks at Edelbrock yesterday. I have been advised by them to use a specific gasket they make for the intake head combo I am using. They also strongly advised not using the end rubber gaskets but to use RTV. Per their tech line using the gaskets can cause the intake to sit to high resulting in it not seating properly against the cylinder heads. I am planning to dry fit the intake using just the intake gaskets no end gaskets and see how it looks prior to applying the RTV. I will post pics later. Thanks for the advice.
 
IF you are using JUST silicone you need to "rough up" the surface on the block and on the intake to give the silicone something to grab on to.
You can also smear a little over the edges so it kind of "locks it in place.
Another way I have done it was made a few "Staple shaped" pieces out of mechanics wire that I drape over the block then silicone over it. I make a staple shape with a small zig zig across the flat spot to hold it in just acts as a retainer to keep the silicone from slipping out or I should say being pushed out by internal pressure down the road. Make sure you put a little extra dab in the corners so they seal completely.
 
As for what silicone to use... ULTRA BLUE is the ONLY silicone I use. most of the RTVs will be too slick and "slip". The Ultra Blue STICKS to metal.
 
Keep us advised looking forward to seeing and hearing she is up and running again!
Still want to see pics with the gaskets on it to see the match up of the ports on both sides.
Even if it is just for future knowledge.
 


Edited by Regul8r - 14-May-2015 at 10:39AM
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