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replacing floor boards

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kversch View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kversch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: replacing floor boards
    Posted: 08-March-2010 at 5:41PM
hey guys.  I am looking for help form anyone who has replaced their floor boards.   The section we are going to have to do is the very front area up in to the toe board area.  from what I can tell part of it is like a double thick.   its the area wear the body mounts are up in the front.    has anyone had to replace this area and have pics of what it all looked like?   did you have to have to take the body off the frame?   Being that part of the area that we have to work on is directly over the frame I would assume this would be a lot easier if the body is off the frame.      Any input on this is going to be a lot of help thanks guy.
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73 ProStreetTorino View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote 73 ProStreetTorino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-March-2010 at 7:30PM
haven't done that area on a Torino but I can tell you this most all floor pan replacement is done from the top inside the car,so you shouldn't need to mess with the frame.you will need a spotweld drill which you only drill thru one layer of the metal to release it from the other part of the floor and the body mount brace.when you put tue floor pan in drill holes along the edge where it overlaps the other floor section and drill holes where the brace is.you'll have to test fit the pan and mark from underneath where the brace is so you can drill holes in the center where flangevis you need to weld to.then alls you need to do is clamp or screw the floor pan to the floor and fill the holes with weld,welding the two metals together.This is called plug welding.then just grind your welds smooth,prime the metal and seam seal the seam perferably both sides, then paint the floor both sides then you can undercoat the bottom but paint it first and let dry before undercoat.

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73 ProStreetTorino View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote 73 ProStreetTorino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-March-2010 at 7:47PM
btw anyone with Paint& Body questions as well as restoration and fabrication work feel free to PM me with your questions as I am a professional with 26 years experience and been restoring cars since I started doing bodywork.I work at a collision shop now fixing wrecks but had my own restoration shop for 4 years and still do restoration work on the side..Don't know if there are any other professional body guys here but I could be the resident expert, so feel free to contact me direct.go to the url listed in my sig to see cars I have restored and painted.I use to have a dot com when I had my shop but shut it down after I closed my shop,cause of inquires for resto work.It was kewl cause I had in before,in progress and finished photos of the builds.oh well someday I might build another site,doing it myself this time though.

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kversch View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kversch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-March-2010 at 9:21PM
the issue that comes up is we have rust holes in the second layer of metal and some minor areas that look to be around the body mount brace.  and we are a little worried as to how britle this area may be once we clean it up and take care of the rust.
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73 ProStreetTorino View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote 73 ProStreetTorino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-March-2010 at 11:14PM
if the brace is rusty and eaten away by rust in areas you might have to cut out the bad area and get some thicker gauge metal like the brace a section in some new metal.I restored a 66 Dodge Charger and a poece of the frame rail was rusted thru,the are unibody so there wasn't much there except the top.lucky we were able to take a good section from a parts car amd section in the piece.it was no more then a thick piece of sheetmetal.I have made new pieces and spliced it in so many times cause the part was not available and couldn't wait to search all of USA for a piece out of a junkyard so I match up the gauge of metal & bend &form a new piece & weld it in..first you have to cut out the bad floor pan & clean everything up and see what you got,then go from there.Now you will know why it costs so much to restore a car at a body shop.1st you are paying for their expertise & second you are paying for their time involved & when you have to fabricate pieces cause they don't make it aftermarket it can take alota time.

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SininenIII View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote SininenIII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-March-2010 at 7:55PM
This is how the driver side front corner looked like after I took the frame off and did some "cleaning". The body mount bolts broke when I tried to unbolt them.
 Looks nice doesn´t it?? Tongue 
 
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http://kuvablogi.com/blog/11330/
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Post Options Post Options   Quote SininenIII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-March-2010 at 10:20PM
Continuing my previous post...
In my case the body and frame were both too rusty to be  properly repaired with the body attached to the frame, or so I think as I´m not a professional in bodywork. Frame was so rusted under the bushings the bushings were almost gone throught the frame,  the bushings were collapsed and had to be replaced, and you can see from the picture above the body needed some work too.
Without no doubt it was easier to fix these issues with the frame off.
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http://kuvablogi.com/blog/11330/
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kversch View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kversch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-March-2010 at 10:46PM
thats pretty nasty,  I hope ours isnt that bad.   I dont think it is,   how did it look from the inside? do you have a pic?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-March-2010 at 6:00PM
Yes, that area is sort of a layed area. It's a structural portion of the body tub, so you will really be best to take the body off the frame and replace.
I don't know if I still have that section left, but I might have a patch if doing just the passenger side.
Best thing you can do is find someone with a parts car, and just get the entire cowl and front tow kick area if you need to repair that.
By buying the cowl as a complete section, you get all the sheet metal you need, and could repair and patch as needed.
Paul Psquare75 had to do that on his old '75 Ford ELite years ago, I sold him a complete floor pan from one of my parts cars.
 
Ask him some time about the 4x8x4 foot long crate they picked up in Boston.
LOL
Andrew
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SininenIII View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote SininenIII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-March-2010 at 7:48PM
There were only few pinholes in driver side front floor inside the car, didn´t look bad at all. The side front corner looked worse. At the time I took these photos, the frame was still attached. After separating the frame and the body, I could see light throught the floor.
I can email you more pictures if you want(?). (aatuholma@gmail.com)


Edited by SininenIII - 11-March-2010 at 7:50PM
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http://kuvablogi.com/blog/11330/
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