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Voltage Regulator Issue

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    Posted: 08-September-2011 at 1:36PM

Hi everyone,

 
I'm a new member to this forum, but I've been doing lots of reading on the site since last year.
 
Unfortunately, I came across some issues with my '74 Gran Torino. I replaced the alternator about three weeks ago with no difficulties. I start her up after the install, she runs no problem. BUT, the "Alt" light on the dash turned on. So, I took the alternator out, got it tested and sure enough it failed. Needless to say, I got another one and the same thing happened when I installed that one. A nice red light on my dash that said "Alt". I took that alternator out, got it tested and it passed, thankfully.
 
My thought, is that the Voltage Regulator kicked the bucket. So, I got a new regulator from my local Ford Dealer,  and that one is a four pronged regulator. And the regulator I currently have in the car has three prongs.
 
Now here's where I get a headache. I've looked up which wires are which and found that no problem. My car has oddly colored wires that do not match what I found on the internet and in my Haynes Manual. This is where I'm at.  A puzzled 20 year old who just wants to enjoy the summer in his Zebra.
 
 
I posted some cellphone pictures. The first picture is the three wires I mentioned above. And the second picture is the regulator itself.
 
 
 
 
 
 
If anyone has any advice or recommendations, please reply. I am at a loss!
 
Thank you in advance and god bless!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gran Torino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-September-2011 at 9:23PM
lol i have the problem you have but reversed. Im a 20 year old as well with a 1974 Ford Gran Torino Brougham. All painted to look like S&H. With a monstrous 460 rebuild but everything works on it except my damn alt light. When you put the car to the on notch right before you start it up. I get my Oil Light and My Brake Light and if i try to start it without my seatbelt I will get the fasten seat belt light on too but the DAMN Alt Light wont come on. I love Dash clusters on every car i just missing that one light IDK why it wont work :( damn
 
But to answer your question... Some wiring could be all screwed up like with mine... My brake light was disconnected and my seatbelt warning indicator light was disconnected under my seat. And my overhead light wasnt coming on but i tore down my headliner and found out my painter never reconnected it. You got to tell me... Does everything work electrically?
 
My car has power locks and power windows and power seats so my car was a pain in the ass to get going. You could have open circuits. Like i did. or so
1974 Gran Torino S&H Replica
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghosttrain2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 1:22AM
That doesn't look like the regulator plug,unless it's been changed. Should be a flat 4 wire plug for the regulator, if it's stock.
1977 LTD, 2 door
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exp_Photo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 2:18AM
Originally posted by Gran Torino Gran Torino wrote:

lol i have the problem you have but reversed. Im a 20 year old as well with a 1974 Ford Gran Torino Brougham. All painted to look like S&H. With a monstrous 460 rebuild but everything works on it except my damn alt light. When you put the car to the on notch right before you start it up. I get my Oil Light and My Brake Light and if i try to start it without my seatbelt I will get the fasten seat belt light on too but the DAMN Alt Light wont come on. I love Dash clusters on every car i just missing that one light IDK why it wont work :( damn
 
But to answer your question... Some wiring could be all screwed up like with mine... My brake light was disconnected and my seatbelt warning indicator light was disconnected under my seat. And my overhead light wasnt coming on but i tore down my headliner and found out my painter never reconnected it. You got to tell me... Does everything work electrically?
 
My car has power locks and power windows and power seats so my car was a pain in the ass to get going. You could have open circuits. Like i did. or so
 
 
Holy hell, that blows. Everything electrical on my car works. I don't have any power locks or windows, it's pretty basic.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exp_Photo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 2:20AM
Originally posted by ghosttrain2 ghosttrain2 wrote:

That doesn't look like the regulator plug,unless it's been changed. Should be a flat 4 wire plug for the regulator, if it's stock.
I'll keep looking for it. But I thought that was the regulator. Good thing I didn't decide to cut the wires.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 2:59AM
Put a one wire alternator in the car and be done with it.  One of the easiest and best upgrades I've ever made on any car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 4:00AM
Absolutely. I run a single wire GM alternator on my F100. Great steady voltage, no more flickering headlights, battery charges nice and hot. Problem solved.
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exp_Photo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 4:12AM
Just installed the new regulator, and the "Alt" light is still on. I am at a loss now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 4:22AM
My '76 ate alternators and regulators left and right the whole time I drove it. We added ground wires, looked for shorts, replaced parts left and right. Never found the problem before I parked it. I would be driving along with the lights on and hit a bump - lights would dim, ALT light would come on. Turn the lights off, hit several bumps and the ALT light would go back off. Did the same thing if the A/C was on or the thumping stereo. Any serious load on it would wreak havoc on the charging system. Obviously a short, but will have to disassemble the car to find it.
Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino       
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1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous
Popeye and Brutus (Rams)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exp_Photo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 4:26AM
See, now that's just right messed up. I traced all the bloody wires and everything checked out to the best of my knowledge. Could it be a bad bulb in the dash that fried after being on for a long time? I think it's a factory bulb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 5:24AM
Check your voltage at the battery with the engine off (s/b 12 volts), then start it and recheck. Should be from 13.2 to 15+ volts at the battery terminals. Turn on lights, blower fan, radio (anything that will produce a load and recheck voltage with all that on and running. Should be between 13.2 and 15 volts if it is charging correctly running.
Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
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1968 Cougar XR7-First batch
1972 Torino 460
1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous
Popeye and Brutus (Rams)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 5:24AM
Fried bulb would most likely be burnt out.
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghosttrain2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2011 at 3:10PM
In the schematic below,you will see how the alternator is wired with a charge light.
The "A" terminal on the alternator should have battery voltage to it.If it does not, check the fusable link. The "A" terminal on the regulator should also have battery voltage to it.
 The I or ignition terminal on the regulator should have 12 volts with the key on.
The "S"or stator terminal on the alternator is only used if you have an electric choke on your carburator.It will be 1/2 the voltage put out by the alternator.
 The "F" or field terminal on your regulator is what turns the alternator on to charge the battery.
 The charge light can also be on if the alternator has a bad rectifier(diode),an open circuit in the wiring,bad ground,also even a bad printed circuit on the instrument cluster.
Hope this information helps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75GranMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2011 at 4:11PM
when you put the new regulator in.did you mount it down before starting the car?some of the electronic regulators will burn out,If you just plug it in without bolting it down to a good ground.most people just plug the regulator in to see if it fixes their problem,thus creating another faulty regulator.with the regulator connector unplugged take a jumper wire and jumper the A and F terminals on the connector.start the car and monitor the voltage at the battery.the voltage should be somewhere around 15 volts.if it is then your alt is functioning correctly.
John 75Gran Torino 4spd
Tighten it down until it snaps and then back it off a half turn!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exp_Photo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2011 at 7:26PM
Originally posted by 75GranMan 75GranMan wrote:

when you put the new regulator in.did you mount it down before starting the car?some of the electronic regulators will burn out,If you just plug it in without bolting it down to a good ground.most people just plug the regulator in to see if it fixes their problem,thus creating another faulty regulator.with the regulator connector unplugged take a jumper wire and jumper the A and F terminals on the connector.start the car and monitor the voltage at the battery.the voltage should be somewhere around 15 volts.if it is then your alt is functioning correctly.
 
Dang it, I did do that. I'll replace that sucker in the morning and see if that helps.
 
 
I'm also going to take the alternator and get it tested again. I have a feeling my car killed it. It died on me tonight as I was cruising with some friends. First, the signals didn't work, and as it got dark on the drive home I turned on my headlights, and the she almost died. Does that sound like a bad alternator?
 
 
 
 
 
Please, accept my deepest thanks for everyone's help so far. You guys have given me hope!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gran Torino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2011 at 11:31PM
Yes because the alternator isnt charging the battery
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75GranMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-September-2011 at 2:21AM
before you remove alt ,to have it tested.full field your alt buy jumping the wires as stated in my previous post.this will tell you if your alt is charging.saving you the time to remove it/install it back if it tests ok.Wink
John 75Gran Torino 4spd
Tighten it down until it snaps and then back it off a half turn!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote inenidok Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-September-2011 at 8:41AM
that plug looks like a horn relay and the plug.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exp_Photo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-September-2011 at 2:38AM
I'm going to tackle this issue this weekend. Haven't had anytime lately. I'll let you guys know what I find.
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