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351w no power

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Senseiwoo98 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14-September-2023 at 12:26PM
Hey guys so I’ve been working on my 351w for a while now. 
I changed the heads, head gaskets, fixed the timing and a new water pump, starter, battery, and starter solenoid. I’ve already had it running for a couple weeks now and just recently it’s been giving me starting issues. It would crank over super super slow, and all of a sudden it just stopped trying to crank all together. It doesn’t even light up the lights in the car. The battery was tested and it’s still good, new battery terminals and good ground. Does anyone have any idea about what part went bad?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-September-2023 at 12:52AM
Have you used a multimeter or test light to check for power at the solenoid and starter? Try and find out where you are losing power after it leaves the battery. Have you checked your fusible links?
Vince

1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Senseiwoo98 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-September-2023 at 3:09PM
How do I go about checking fusible links?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-September-2023 at 6:58PM
You can test them for continuity using a multimeter.  Check them to see if them look damaged or burned.

Here are some instructions:

"Testing for Continuity:
Set your multimeter to the continuity testing mode and touch the probes to the terminals or ends of the fusible link. If the multimeter beeps or shows a low resistance reading, the fusible link is intact and has continuity."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-September-2023 at 7:08AM
or you can check for voltage before & after the fusible link, 

poke the sharp pointy probe into the wire insulation to contact the conductor inside
72 GT Ute
   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Senseiwoo98 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-September-2023 at 10:37AM
I went poking around today and I’m not getting power anywhere. I even used the test light on the battery and I’m getting nothing. I know this battery is good because it’s brand new and got it tested as well. It also used to run. I’m starting to believe a wire may have gone bad from the key to maybe the ICM? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-September-2023 at 10:51AM
Check the battery posts with a voltmeter to test that. If it isn't over 12v, charge it soon, before attempting to crank the engine again. Checking the voltage at different places will tell you where problems are. If the battery terminals are bad or corroded, then the voltage will be fine at the posts, but not on the terminals or cable ends. You can narrow down where the problems are, just go at it systematically. Begin with the battery, the posts not terminals, then the other main contact points. Corrosion can be inside a wire, a cable, and it has to be replaced.

So note what the voltage is at the posts, the terminals, the starter solenoid contacts, with and without the engine running.
Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000+ rpm 351-4V &4R70W
73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later.
92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W
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