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fordpower
Senior Member Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1763 |
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Posted: 01-July-2011 at 12:23PM |
My 79 ltd2 will not blow cold air. The lines freeze or ice up but nothing gets inside the car.Brfore I get had at a air condition shop would like some ideas,wife wants air,one quote 650 to change over to r34
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75GranMan
Senior Member Joined: 05-April-2011 Location: Colchester, CT Status: Offline Points: 1225 |
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look at the hot water valve,thats located in one of the heater hoses,this valve cuts off coolant flow to the heater core during a/c operation.make sure the valve is operating correctly.you may even have to remove the valvefrom the hose to make that the inside flapper is attached,a good quick check is just crimp off the hose with with apair of needle nose visegrips,and see if your a/c functions correctly.this is probably the easiest thing to check,and a very likely cause. |
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John 75Gran Torino 4spd
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Psquare75
Admin Group Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4591 |
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Out of curiousity, assuming a car is original, what hose should that vacuum controlled heater valve be connected to? black with a blue stripe?
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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Eliteman76
Admin Group Joined: 20-March-2006 Location: Nebraska, USA Status: Offline Points: 5044 |
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I was having icing up issues on my lines.
I still was seeing the lines ice up lightly, and ended up being low and not enough 134a. I had to top off the system and cured the issues. However, I had to replace the vacuum door motor as mine was shot. Was not opening the flapper door. I managed to swap out in the car, had to drill two holes in the case to get at the 1/4 inch head screws. That, and had to tear the dash completely apart...which -sigh- isn't bad but still sucks. I've got a '72 GTS, but I don't know how different the 77-79 unit is.
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Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems |
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fordpower
Senior Member Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1763 |
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I don't know about the black w blue but its the inside heaterhose going into the fire wall.As for the vac door motor that sounds like my problem. Summer is almost over.
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Psquare75
Admin Group Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4591 |
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Where does the vacuum hose that connects to that valve come from on your car? the fire wall, in a rubber grommet with another hose?
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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fordpower
Senior Member Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1763 |
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I will look tomorrow.
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fordpower
Senior Member Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1763 |
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yes the other hose goes to the vac canister. Also the vac control is on the outside hose not the inside like i stated. gess my eys are getting old.
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fordpower
Senior Member Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1763 |
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yes the little hose goes to the fire wall
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joe
New Member Joined: 02-January-2011 Location: IL Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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If the lines are icing up near the evaporator inlet and you charge is good then it is most likely a bad thermal control valve. it is the valve with a copper tube coming out and cork taped to the evaporator tube. this controls flow though the evaporator. these cars do not have a pressure switch control on them. if you are getting heavy ice on your line you should have a good charge. a good shop can recover your charge and reuse most of it. r12 is still available but expensive. beleave 409 is the new direct replacement and is a dark brown cannister. I would not recomend just tossing r134 in it like most do. the system is'nt made for it. Make sure you weigh in the propper amount of refrigerent. Under charging won't be as good and over charging can cause a compressor lock up on extreamly hot days. I have had cars come in with the compressor shaft twisted off from over charged systems.
The valve can be bought at any napa.
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Eliteman76
Admin Group Joined: 20-March-2006 Location: Nebraska, USA Status: Offline Points: 5044 |
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HI Joe-
Actually, the icing issue was due to the fact the dampner door was not opening, and not getting enough airflow over the evap core. I forget the exact amount of 134a I used, but I did have a guy that is an instructor for a local school that does HVAC and automotive AC assisted me, along with help from a buddy that runs a frame/body shop. Biggest thing was I was monitoring the hi and low side pressures to make sure they were within Ford's specs for charge...the service manuals were very helpful on this. I know the times I was running a machine when I did autobody for a living, pulling vacuum was always a bit of a big deal for me. Just want to make sure all the moisture is pulled from the system. **edit, sorry, I thought this was my old post! Re-read things...charge amount is critical. I converted my to 134a, if I had money, I'd convert to a sanden type compressor, and go to a late model, cycling pressure switch setup with the POA eliminator kit. I decided to spend the $200 to have my hoses remade with 134 specific hose, using the original fittings. Reused my r12 fittings as the guage set I have for 134a screws onto r12 fittings when you pull adapters off the lines.
Edited by Eliteman76 - 12-February-2012 at 12:57PM |
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Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems |
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