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bell housing wont bolt to block flush |
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dudeman
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Topic: bell housing wont bolt to block flushPosted: 29-February-2012 at 2:01AM |
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i have a 91, 331 and a 71 c4 i am combining. it was a 5 speed before now going to an automatic. when i bolt down the bell housing it always leave a small gap on one either left or right side. don't know what to do. the converter seated right, and lined up with flex plate fine. also it was a manual before as i said i did not take out the throw out bearing is that the problem. if it is what do i replace it with? its almost like it is wabeling form left to right when i tighten down one side. like something in the middle is putting pressure on it. |
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dudeman
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 2:09AM |
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unlovedford
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 2:18AM |
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Did you remove the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft? You wouldn't use that for an automatic.
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Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
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Regul8r
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 3:57AM |
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ONLY 2 things I can think of...1. Is the torque converter FULLY seated?
2. and yes check the pilot bearing is removed and test fit the torque converter to the flywheel without bolts to see it mates up flush. Is the flywheel on correctly? I mean not on backwards. Pretty easy to tell by the bolt marks on it from when it was on the other engine.
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Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
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72BlackGTS
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 4:06AM |
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Did you remember to put the block plate on before the flywheel/flexplate? If not that would leave a small gap between the bellhousing and block.
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Ron
1978 LTD II Sport-Green 2003 HD Road King Classic 100th Anniversary |
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Regul8r
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 4:14AM |
Forgot that too! But that wouldn't make it NOT bolt up. Racers remove that plate all the time without an issue. There should be enough movement without the plate. With what he is saying I am betting on the pilot bearing or a not fully seated torque converter. Remember another un-named member did that to his tranny when he put the rebuilt motor in.
Edited by Regul8r - 29-February-2012 at 4:17AM |
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Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae" 97 Suzuki Intruder 1400 US Army Retired |
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Blueoval76
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 4:55AM |
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I agree with pilot bearing still in there or TC not seated properly. Please tell us that you did NOT try to bolt it down even though it had the gap? If you did you may have ruined the front pump on the trans. It is easy to hurt the front pump forcing the trans to mate with the motor. Also if this is an aftermarket TC make sure the pilot is not too long. I ordered a Revmax TC and I ended up grinding the pilot snout down to take up a gap between the TC and flexplate (flywheel). This also caused other issues and ended up taking out my thrust bearing in the motor and also my front pump in the trans! Be careful with the step you are on as alot of things can easily go wrong.
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Psquare75
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 5:49AM |
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Having installed a C4 and successfully killed it years ago due to a not fully seated converter, I can assure you that even if the converter isn't seated (two 'clicks'!) the bellhousing will be flush.
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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dudeman
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 10:06AM |
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its is the pilot bearing i have searched around that is the only issue it could be im pretty sure. and how would you check if you ruined the front pump on the trans because i dint force it but had to find out that it dint go on together some how......
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unlovedford
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 10:14AM |
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Other than trying it, pressure testing it or replacing it beforehand, I don't know how to check it.
Easy way to remove the pilot bearing - pack the hole with axle grease. Then insert a dowell or brass punch slightly smaller than the diameter of the pilot bearing. Pop the punch a few times with a mallet and the pressure of the grease will force the bearing out. Works great with no damage to the crank. |
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Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
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stanman
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Posted: 29-February-2012 at 2:46PM |
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I THINK the transmission should be OK. It sounds like the convertor is seated properly in the transmission but being held back by the pilot bearing which in turn is keeping the engine and trans from coming together completely. Joe's method of bearing removal is the only way I've heard of. I've tried it and it works.
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