Exhaust Manifold bolts

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   So I have what is really a general (all engine type) question:

What type of exhaust manifold bolts should I use with standard exhaust manifolds?

This is specifically related to my 71 F-250 with the 360 FE in it.

When I had originally done a great deal of work to it, I replaced every bolt I could (the old ones were literally breaking of by the dozen, it was crazy) with a nice and shiny ARP accessory bolt mount kit in stainless steel.

Very, very nice bolts.

When I had the cracked exhaust manifold a year later (I did not change those bolts), when I bought a new manifold I opted to put in some ARP stainless bolts there as well (manifold to head). 

A couple months go by and they loosened up. I get new gaskets, remove, replace and retorque and then I loctite the lower aft bolts that loosened up. 

Fast forward several more months (to last week) and I am under the hood looking at my wonderful coolant-in-the-combustion-chamber issue, and notice an upper aft bolt is worked it's way out at least a quarter of an inch (not one that I had loc-tited).

What was there before were bolts from Lowe's or Home Depot, and while they were junk, they also did not loosen up.

Would I be better off getting the ARP black oxide bolts? Should I have loc-tited every bolt? 

Should I go to Home Depot and buy some bolts?

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GranTorinoSport Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287	Post Options Post Reply Quote GranTorinoSport Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Exhaust Manifold bolts Posted: 06-January-2011 at 5:46AM
	So I have what is really a general (all engine type) question: What type of exhaust manifold bolts should I use with standard exhaust manifolds? This is specifically related to my 71 F-250 with the 360 FE in it. When I had originally done a great deal of work to it, I replaced every bolt I could (the old ones were literally breaking of by the dozen, it was crazy) with a nice and shiny ARP accessory bolt mount kit in stainless steel. Very, very nice bolts. When I had the cracked exhaust manifold a year later (I did not change those bolts), when I bought a new manifold I opted to put in some ARP stainless bolts there as well (manifold to head). A couple months go by and they loosened up. I get new gaskets, remove, replace and retorque and then I loctite the lower aft bolts that loosened up. Fast forward several more months (to last week) and I am under the hood looking at my wonderful coolant-in-the-combustion-chamber issue, and notice an upper aft bolt is worked it's way out at least a quarter of an inch (not one that I had loc-tited). What was there before were bolts from Lowe's or Home Depot, and while they were junk, they also did not loosen up. Would I be better off getting the ARP black oxide bolts? Should I have loc-tited every bolt? Should I go to Home Depot and buy some bolts?
	Scott Eklund Webmaster

Psquare75 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4590	Post Options Post Reply Quote Psquare75 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06-January-2011 at 5:50AM
	Sadly I think on my exhaust manifold equipped cars, I just grab HD/Lowes bolts, and actually, I put Never Seize on them.. I always have trouble with those BREAKING, lol.
	Paul 77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 SOLD 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500

Regul8r Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Moderator Joined: 26-December-2007 Location: Sarasota FL Status: Offline Points: 6623	Post Options Post Reply Quote Regul8r Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06-January-2011 at 6:54AM
	I bought the header bolts from O'Rielly's. When I do straight manifold work, I just use Grade 5 or 8 bolts from the hardware store. The thickest washers they have available and ALWAYS use Anti-Sieze on the threads... NEVER loc-tite!! Never had a problem.
	Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME! 1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae" 97 Suzuki Intruder 1400 US Army Retired

mcford Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 31-May-2003 Location: Utica, Michigan Status: Offline Points: 2160	Post Options Post Reply Quote mcford Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12-January-2011 at 5:03AM
	on manifolds, i just go to the hardware store and buy stainless bolts and lock washers. NEVER have had a problem with clevelands or 429/460's.

GranTorinoSport Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287	Post Options Post Reply Quote GranTorinoSport Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12-January-2011 at 12:15PM
	Yea, I think I'm going to go with some Lowe's grade-8's. ARP has header bolts that are drilled for safety wire. Since I know how to install safety wire from my previous aircraft maintenance days, I thought that would be perfect. The only problem was that they only came in lengths for headers (I need a bit longer for the manifolds). Safety wired bolts would have been the way to go. A little messy, but effective.
	Scott Eklund Webmaster

stanman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23-March-2007 Location: Nova Scotia, Ca Status: Offline Points: 1432	Post Options Post Reply Quote stanman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12-January-2011 at 2:41PM
	I've seen them use locking header bolts on the Powerblock shows on Spike, but I haven't looked into where they bought them. Probably pretty pricey, I'm a cheapskate.