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Exhaust Manifold Gaskets |
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GranTorinoSport ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 22-February-2011 at 11:33AM |
So I picked up my cylinder heads from Grumpy the Machine Shop Guy last
week. In my discussions with him, he recommended a couple of options for
exhaust manifold gaskets:
1. No gaskets if the heads and manifolds are both surfaced straight or new. I was a little wary about this option. 2. Metal gasket - he said the largest contributor to exhaust manifold leaks (aside from uneven surfaces mating) was the metal on one side and paper on the other gaskets. The reason is heat transfer. He made the case that a metal exhaust gasket will allow the exhaust manifold transfer heat back into the head, which since it has coolant in it, will be able to better dissipate the heat. I had already purchased gaskets, and mistakenly assumed the exhaust gasket I got (Fel-Pro) was a combination metal/paper (like the previous one I got last year from NAPA). So I ordered a copper gasket off Summit. I was surprised to find my Fel-Pro was steel. So once the Summit package comes I'll have both a steel and copper exhaust gasket set. I assume either will be OK for use provided I use the cowboyupdjcarl method of spraying a light coat of ultra copper spray on both sides? Interesting topic either way. I have never given the matter any thought at all. Since the exhaust manifolds on my 66 Chrysler 300 leak crazy-silly (but I can't do anything about it right now til the pickup is done), I'll be better armed with how to solve the matter. Only problem? For my pickup I can simply get on ebay and buy both exhaust manifolds for like $60 each, just a click away (chinese castings). For the Chrysler?? No such luck. Found a $500 set of new castings, but for a B-body (I'll have to find out if they will work anyway). |
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Scott Eklund
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orlnslloyd ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 11-March-2006 Location: orleans indiana Status: Offline Points: 105 |
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I have always used the first option. If the manifolds or head has any pitting, I use a thin layer of red rtv.
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'72, GTSFB, 460, C6, 3.70
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Psquare75 ![]() Admin Group ![]() Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4590 |
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I use felpro manifold gaskets even with headers and they seem to work well.
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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302ford ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 24-February-2008 Location: vancouver Status: Offline Points: 178 |
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After blowing out many paper gaskets I was advised to use only copper silicone to seal it. I was skeptical at first, but I've now put on over 1500mi and havn't ran into an issue at all. As for the collector gaskets, when I had cheap headers and the flage was warped I used one of those "dead soft" aluminum gaskets and it seamed to seal fine.
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79 LTD II 408/TKO/3.7's
11.78 117.3mph. drag radials |
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Psquare75 ![]() Admin Group ![]() Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4590 |
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I tried the copper silicone on my Cougar. I made more of a mess than anything (and still didn't seal). There's zero room to pull out the headers between the block and control arms :(
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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GranTorinoSport ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Personally, I keep worrying about that as well. Obviously headers seem like the obvious (only) choice for a 521 stroker. Exhaust manifolds would be sooo much easier (and quieter). I know the regular 70's passenger car headers are junk (too small, too little flow), and folks say the cobra jet ones are ok for mild builds. I wonder how the 460 truck manifolds (newer truck) are. Not sure they'd even fit, but worth looking into. The pics I saw made them look to have rather large ports, etc. |
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Scott Eklund
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Psquare75 ![]() Admin Group ![]() Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4590 |
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Just get the Hookers and be done with it :). To be honest, I thought you had them already.
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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GranTorinoSport ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Hookers are the obvious choice. I'm not sure I'd do anything different unless the solution was obvious and 100% (which there are not).
I was going to order the headers, transmission and converter at once, have it arrive (about the time I need it) and then just stab everything in all at once. I have room for the engine to sit around in my garage, but very little other space (although a nice set of headers would be another great conversation piece!) Project doesn't move forward until the F-250 (aka "science project") is complete and out of the garage. And I've got a couple of minor things to accomplish on the 66 Chrysler 300. At that point, my plan was (roughly): 1. Prep new front suspension/brake parts. Basically get all that stuff ready to change out in short order when car is in garage. 2. Take the front clip off. Start cleaning/repairing/painting all those parts (not exterior finish paint, all the inside stuff). 3. Bring car in garage. Remove engine/trans/etc. 4. Perform cleaning/painting/etc to front area. 5. Change out brakes/suspension/etc. 6. Stab in engine/trans/headers. 7. Reassemble front clip. 8. Complete underhood items. 9. Car runs! |
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Scott Eklund
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Psquare75 ![]() Admin Group ![]() Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4590 |
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#1. Was the engine from Carl broken in already?
#2. Does your car run currently? |
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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GranTorinoSport ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Carl ran it a couple of times. It's all sealed (and still shrink wrapped). I asked him about it, and he said the engine would be fine for quite some time as long as I don't unseal it.
The car... sort of runs. With enough coaxing and 20 minutes of effort (and a recharged battery), I can get it started. Something is real wrong with the engine, possibly (likely) a slipped timing chain or equivalent. Enough to get it into the garage one last time more or less. |
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Scott Eklund
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Psquare75 ![]() Admin Group ![]() Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4590 |
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Ah damn, I was going to suggest getting the suspension all done completely before digging into the engine. Brakes bedded, full alignment, all that fun stuff, then you can concentrate on the last piece of the puzzle.
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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GranTorinoSport ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Yea, it started running really badly about the time (last spring) I was having trouble with the ignition switch. Got the switch figured out, and the poor thing was still running very badly. 235,000 miles, I am surprised it made it this far. Not bad for an original 351W.
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Scott Eklund
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