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jadeezra View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12-January-2015 at 3:11AM
Guys I'm pretty new to this body style. Have had several 70-71s and it looks like the 72 restomod stuff is fairly limited and very expensive. Basically is there an option for a 4 wheel disc brake upgrade and what about suspension upgrades? I know I want a tko 600 what all does that entail a with a 72? Have not decided if I'm going to beef up the 400 or go with a wild 385 series stroker yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 3:43AM
No is the simple answer for your brakes, I've been looking for some to go onto my 73
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GTW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 3:58AM
I think Billy did a 4 wheel disc conversion from a Lincoln Mark V, and some have done Crown Victoria 4 wheel disc conversions. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jadeezra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 4:05AM
Any upgrade kits for the front? I'm guessing no lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 8:05AM
12 inch T Bird brake setup for the front. You might look for a GM brake conversion that you can modify to fit - loads of them out there.

Explorer rear disc setup is a really easy upgrade for the 9 inch. Cheap, too. Panther chassis rear disc setups for the 8 inch are super easy.
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 8:45AM
If the Explorer(1995-2001) rear brakes are easy to adapt to the 9", then look for the 2003+ range of Crown Vics. The Explorer has 11" rotors, single non vented disc, while the CV'c are a hair larger, but they are vented(thicker too). I have a set of those CV brakes that I haven't decided whether to use them for my 99 Explorer or not. Those should be easy to find now in salvage yards.
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote n2fordwagons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 8:49AM
Originally posted by unlovedford unlovedford wrote:

Explorer rear disc setup is a really easy upgrade for the 9 inch. Cheap, too.
 
Any chance there is a detailed write-up, parts list, etc?  Better off buying everything new versus visiting a Pull A Part?
Jeff

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 8:56AM
The bracket which mounts to the rear end will be the main item you'd have to modify, to mount with the right offset to the 9" rear. I don't know how well the parking brake cables will adapt. I have a set of those brake parts too, if you'd like to give those a try. Wink

You do want to buy new rotors/pads though, the used things you find won't be that great.


Edited by 72 RS 351 - 12-January-2015 at 8:57AM
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 9:01AM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/newbie-general-4x4-discussion/121194-99-ford-nine-inch-disk-brake-conversion.html

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/9-inch-rear-disc-brake-installation.569272/

First is a conversion using a 1974 Torino housing. Big bearing.

Second is using a '57 Ford 9 inch housing.

Both are applicable, work well, and are easy/cheap. Converting several of mine in this manner. Either size rotor will provide great stopping ability, as most of your braking bias is towards the front. Otherwise, you would just see two black streaks and the world flying by through the side windows.
Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon
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1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous
Popeye and Brutus (Rams)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 9:07AM
Somewhere I read that a certain era 1/2 ton Chevrolet (1500 series) 5 X 5 pattern brake assembly would work on our cars. Great for those of us using Lincoln components that have the 5 X 5 pattern. Large rotors, big GM calipers, sturdy cheap replacement parts off the shelf. Not sure what years but would have to be 1973-1979, 1980, 1981-1987, 1989-1998.
Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon
1972 Torino Wagon
1976 Torino       
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1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous
Popeye and Brutus (Rams)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jadeezra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 9:20AM
All great stuff guys! Was hoping for an easier bolt on choice, it can never be that easy with torinos. I wonder if this would work with 72s?


http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48778
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 10:33AM
Front brake upgrade...
NEED a set of 72 Gran Torino SMALL bearing spindles then the caliper bracket and 12" rotors from a T-Bird, not sure the year off the top of my head but, all these parts are readily available.
You re-use your front calipers, Ford used the same ones on almost ALL their cars in the 70s.
the 12" rotor is a good upgrade and EASY!
 
As for the rear... it is a stock Ford 9" and you can buy disc brake conversions from almost everywhere on the web. They come in all shapes, forms, sizes and prices!
EASY to do in just a day in the driveway.
 


Edited by Regul8r - 12-January-2015 at 10:34AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 12:21PM
He's got a 72, so he should have the right spindles. All he needs are the rotors (72 T-bird/Mark IV) and the caliper brackets for a full-size.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jadeezra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 12:39PM
Originally posted by Big Bird Big Bird wrote:

He's got a 72, so he should have the right spindles. All he needs are the rotors (72 T-bird/Mark IV) and the caliper brackets for a full-size.

So calipers and brackets from a full size?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 1:30PM
your calipers and then caliper brackets for 70's full size.
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 1:32PM
calipers are the same, just the spindles, caliper brackets & the front disc backing plates 
i'll take a pair if you come up with extra Wink
 
& check length on the flexible hydraulic lines at full turn & suspension compression/droop
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 2:51PM
as stated...
 
a. you have a 72 so use your CURRENT spindles
b. use your CURRENT calipers and pads (they are the same)
c. the 72 T-Bird/Mark IV Rotors and backing plates
d. the caliper MOUNTS from the Donor T-Bird or one of the other FULL SIZE Fords from the 70s.
 
1. Remove caliper slide lock bolt(1/4" allen head) and the slide assembly
2. remove and hang caliper (do not undo the brake hose), save the brake pads
3. remove the Gran Torino's brake rotor(dust cap, cotter pin, lock ring, bearing adjustment nut and pull rotor off)
4. remove three bolts that hold the brake shield in place(1/2" socket)
5. remove two caliper bracket mount bolts (bottom is a 11/16" the top is 3/4")
 
re-install in reverse order with the T-Bird caliper bracket, T-Bird brake shield, T-Bird rotor, your caliper and pads... DONE! huge front brake improvement. You will need to make sure you are using at least a 15" rim to clear the bigger brake set up.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jadeezra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2015 at 10:18PM
Good info guys!!!! Looks like a fairly easy swap out for the fronts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2015 at 3:22PM
wait till you see the price of the rotors Shocked
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jadeezra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2015 at 3:28PM
Pretty salty? I'm used to high prices coming from the 70-71 crowd. Louvers 2500-3000 429 shroud 6-1000 grills 7-2000 lol nutty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2015 at 5:22PM
Rock Auto, $100-$135 each
only $30 or so more than the 72 gran torino rotors
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jadeezra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2015 at 6:10PM
Lol that is high for rotors. I'm just going to take your thought and rebuild it oem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2015 at 8:03PM
I'm having one of the racer building shops here look at ordering me a Wilwood kit, if they find any part numbers I'll let you know
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-June-2015 at 10:47PM
Originally posted by Regul8r Regul8r wrote:

as stated...
 

d. the caliper MOUNTS from the Donor T-Bird or one of the other FULL SIZE Fords from the 70s.
 
 


Carl,
I may be an idiot, but what are the other full size Fords from the 70's?
Thanks,
Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-June-2015 at 11:11PM
Elite I'd guess and the mercury alternative
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GTW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-June-2015 at 2:11AM
Elite and Cougar (Mercury alternative) are still midsizers like Torinos and Montegos. The LTD, Galaxie, and Marquis are some fullsizers.

Edited by GTW - 11-June-2015 at 2:12AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-June-2015 at 3:25AM
There are tons of threads on here about this disc brake stuff. I don't want to be "that guy" that says use the search function to find them but ya, use the search function.

For this next part I am going to assume everything is stock and in like new condition. If not, that's top priority in every case.

If you are after pure street/track car performance and do not care at all about bling factor or superior comfort then to go faster it works like this...

#1 - Best tires money can buy on a wide 17in or 18in rim.
#2 - restraints (better seat mostly)
#3 - put a pro driver in the hot seat
#4 - gut it (here because it's the free'est)
#5 - lower it a bit by chopping springs
#6 - Bilstein HD PI dampers all 'round
#7 - limited slip
#8 - big hp and a good gearbox
... then start looking at major suspension mods and brake upgrades. (both things are very important too)

If in the interest of show car restomod bling that has some good performance (assuming the car is in like new condition)
#1 - 15in to 17in rims with fresh tires
#2 - lower it a bit by chopping springs
#3 - big hp
#4 - discs brakes all around (paint them so they look cool)
#5 - super nice paint job and functional aesthetics like HID lights and interior mods 
then start doing major performance stuff like dampers, limited slip, and suspension mods

In either case tires are essential. I believe, although some may strongly dis-agree, choosing to go with 15in wheels regardless of tire choice will always leave performance on the table in the handling department. The sidewall is far too big and no real-deal brakes can fit under the 15s. The tire is always going to be the biggest limiting factor for a 4000+lb car in every direction.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-June-2015 at 3:59AM
Agree 100% on Billy's notes above. I run 17 and 18 inch wheels on every vehicle I drive. The rubber compounds, sidewall height, structure...all far better in the 17 and 18 inch sizes. I went from 14 inch setups on both wagons to 17/18 and the difference was astounding. Then I installed a set of CVPI shocks and even more so. Still on stock 40 year old springs. Next up will be the better springs and the Bilsteins. I know this all costs money, but the difference in prices between replacement of stock parts and moving up should be around $600. With the safer and more responsive handling, you might spend that extra $600, but you might save yourself from an accident or other catastrophe. Also, every driving experience will be better, I assure you.

I am also a firm believer in 4 wheel disc brakes. Not from a cool factor, but from a safety point of view. I live in mountainous terrain, and slowing down a 4000-5000 pound vehicle repeatedly will make you want the discs - even in flatland areas.

You can have a car with the proper suspension/wheels/tires and 350 horses just slaughter an identical car with stock parts and 450 horses. Every time, every day. Gotta be able to put the power to the ground and control it once it is there.
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-June-2015 at 4:46AM
I forgot about tightening up steering too. The stock battle-ship steering is a little sketchy. 

There is also no desirable aerodynamic aspects about these cars. My steering gets almost completely numb around 80mph. On my list of things to do is figure out a way to negate all the lift the front seems to be having at high speeds. 

I got away with rear drums for a good two years or so. I had the rears lock a couple times in the rain and they where a nightmare to service but other than that I had no major complaints. The fronts take so much braking duties I barely noticed a performance difference going to rear discs. I have no proof it helped or didn't. The feel is a bit more linear now but honestly performance still sucks compared to a newer high performance car. If I was at 60mph and had to stop in an emergency I probably wouldn't have enough brake control to pull the car in safely.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-June-2015 at 7:06AM
Originally posted by Billy C Billy C wrote:


In either case tires are essential. I believe, although some may strongly dis-agree, choosing to go with 15in wheels regardless of tire choice will always leave performance on the table in the handling department. The sidewall is far too big and no real-deal brakes can fit under the 15s. The tire is always going to be the biggest limiting factor for a 4000+lb car in every direction.

 
I agree that if you are looking for to push your Torino to maximum handling limits that 15" tires would be a limiting factor.  That said, it all depends on what you are looking for.  I went from the stock 70 series 14" tires to 60 series 15" tires.  Went to 245 width and 15x8 rims front and back.  These cars need a wide front tire to help the front end grip.  That along with Addco sway bars, CVPI coil springs, Bilstein shocks make my car an excellent handling with a decent ride while essentially appearing bone stock.  I am not into the resto mod look or the large wheel look.  And to be honest the setup I have is all the handling I need in this car.  It will keep up with modern cars and I have scared more than one passenger on some corners.  I would say the handling on the car is comparable to a HPP Crown Vic.
 
IMO to make these big Torinos handle well they need a lot of spring rate, big sway bars and good modern shocks.  The stock springs on these cars were just way too soft unless you had the competition suspension.  You have to decide how far you want to go in the handling dept.
 
As for steering, I recommend the Saginaw steering box swap.  These steering boxes can be built to a wide variety of ratios and the steering effort can be tuned your taste.  Plus it's basically a bolt in swap.


Edited by 72FordGTS - 11-June-2015 at 7:07AM
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