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72 Quarter panels |
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bluesrockerman
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Joined: 22-October-2020 Location: 44425 Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Topic: 72 Quarter panelsPosted: 31-March-2025 at 1:30PM |
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Can anyone tell me how the outer quarter panel and inner wheel houses are joined? I am thinking of installing a new quarter and wondering how to separate them. Are they spot welded?
Thanks in advance.
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ritchie
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67gt5003119
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Joined: 09-December-2012 Location: Gig Harbor Wa. Status: Offline Points: 640 |
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Posted: 31-March-2025 at 4:46PM |
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They are spot welded, pinch welded at the wheel lip. Under the wheel lip molding, if you have moldings. It's best to use a spot weld cutting tool. NAPA or a local body/paint store will have them. Once you drilled out the weld gently separate the panels with a small chisel and hammer. Try not to drill through both parts, just the quarter panel. This will leave you good metal to weld the new quarter on to the wheelhouse.
If your quarter is really bad and you are putting a whole panel on. I make it easier by taking a cut off wheel and make a cut just above the pinch weld and all around the original panel. This opens up the pinchwelds and makes it easier to access and separate them.
Edited by 67gt5003119 - 31-March-2025 at 4:51PM |
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Eliteman76
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Joined: 20-March-2006 Location: Nebraska, USA Status: Offline Points: 5450 |
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Posted: 01-April-2025 at 8:43AM |
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Quarter panels are spot welded on. Roughly every 2-3 inches on the lip.
If your quarter panel is roached, I'd tell you as 67GT suggested, slice the panel lip area using a cut off wheel. Remove the lip area by drilling the spot welds and hammer and a sharp chisel meant for panel splitting. Be careful about cutting too deep, but I'd wager you will need outer wheel houses. A good tool to use: https://a.co/d/1eHqLx3 Lisle 51900 Spot Weld ChiselAs far as quarters, hopefully you are using Tabco quarters. I'd tell you splice in the center of the dish area. ![]() |
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Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed RestomodPondering: #99Problems |
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bluesrockerman
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Joined: 22-October-2020 Location: 44425 Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: 01-April-2025 at 12:59PM |
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Thanks Guys. Actually the car is pretty rust free, but someone really did some subpar body work on the driver's side rear quarter. It was either hit or pushed in in some way. With the concave body lines and the convex bulge of the quarter, I'm thinking it would be easier to replace the skin than try and straighten out the poor body work, although I haven't stripped the paint off of it to get a good look yet.
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ritchie
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bluesrockerman
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Posted: 02-April-2025 at 1:54AM |
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Thank you so much. If you don't mind me asking, what sequence do think is best if not stripping all of the original paint on this project. (although I will be stripping the roof due to the sun cracking the paint) I'm thinking of any dent/damage repair, spraying any bare metal with self etching primer, sanding the entire panel, then spraying Urethane 2K for blocking and then a sealer. It will likely be some time (6 to 12 months) before I can get the car painted and will be working on this one panel at a time as time allows.
Thanks for your thoughts!
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ritchie
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Eliteman76
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Posted: 02-April-2025 at 2:10AM |
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Look up Eastwood or Harbor Freight has a panel stripping tool.
You want something that won’t generate heat and warp the panels. Now, I’ve used Britestrip 4.5” coated abrasive wheels before. I could buy them at a cheaper cost years ago from work. These used to be made by a company called Standard Abrasives and were amazing for stripping paint and surface rust but you have to watch edges, as the wheels can toss crap if you hit the edge of a panel and send stuff flying. Harbor freight sells some versions but 3M and Norton are really the leaders for stuff like this and last longer. Cubitron3 material is amazing stuff from 3M. Let the material do the work. Don’t bear down on it. Lastly…a good air compressor with a big tank, a da sander and 80 grit paper will prep a panel without tearing up the metal. Do a panel strip at a time. End of stripping, coat in epoxy DTM direct to metal primer. Keep it sealed up to prevent flash rusting unless your car is inside an air conditioned space. Also…make sure you keep a gallon of wax and grease remover and clean the panels properly before applying coatings. Wear nitrile gloves to protect your skin with degreaser. Last item. Buy a dust respirator and Google type safety glasses to seal your eyes. Dewalt and Milwaukee have some nice options here. Old paint and filler dust is some nasty stuff. Having a good fan to dirty pull air out of the area and a fan to bring air in helps. |
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Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed RestomodPondering: #99Problems |
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bluesrockerman
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Posted: 02-April-2025 at 4:50AM |
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Awesome tips. Thank you sir! I've had the car since 1992. Mechanically done top to bottom. Now time to make it look nicer! Luckily there's not a ton of rust as it was a Southern car. Thanks again.
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ritchie
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Eliteman76
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Posted: 02-April-2025 at 5:47AM |
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Mine was a 9 year project.
If you look up my threads here, it’s a long read but will show the amount of work I had on a derelict ‘72 Q code GTS.
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Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed RestomodPondering: #99Problems |
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bluesrockerman
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Posted: 02-April-2025 at 7:27AM |
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Thanks, will do.
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ritchie
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