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71 Ranchero starting help |
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Bretticuss
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Topic: 71 Ranchero starting helpPosted: 04-September-2025 at 10:31AM |
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Hello, back again with a few questions for my Ranchero. I noticed, along with I believe somebody else on this forum or maybe facebook, that my positive battery cable is actually black, and my ground is red. The black cable is going to my solenoid, and the red is grounded to the block and a small wire to the engine bay. Threw a battery in and now I have good bright headlights, tail lights, rear turn signals, and interior lights. Haven't tested brake lights yet. I did notice that when I turned the key I didn't get any dash lights. I tried turning the key to see if the starter would engage, and it does not. I can jump the solenoid and get it to engage the starter, and it turns over really strong. With the key turned to the run position, and jumping the solenoid, I do not get spark. I bought a new ignition switch, put it in today, and still nothing. Now at least, I do get the ALT light when I turn the key, so I don't think I bought a Lemon ignition switch. What should my next step be? Clean the points? I'm going to share some pictures of some wiring by the starter solenoid. Wiring is way above me right now. I know its a mess right here. If it does mean anything, the alternator is currently disconnected. I don't know if theres a necessary connection there, or ground, just to start the car. I'm brand new to this, so any help is greatly appreciated. ![]() |
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Rockatansky
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Posted: 04-September-2025 at 12:27PM |
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look for a disconnected and/or burnt fusible link that should be attached to the battery side of the solenoid. it supplies power to the fuse block & other stuff that needs to work
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Sak7788
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Posted: 04-September-2025 at 12:46PM |
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Where does the medium size red wire go coming from the bundle of electrical tape? It's probably feeding the fuse able Links that normally feed off the battery side of the starter solenoid, id inspect there for a dirty/poor connection first...🤔
If you're not Handy with electricity then your really going to have a job on your hands. Throwing random parts at anything without diagnosing and verifying they're actually bad will have you chasing your tail thinking a new part is good when it's not (happens all too often these days). Example, your old switch was probably good but but changing it with the new one you might have cleaned a dirty connection that caused the alt light to start working... I'd start with cleaning your original points with a small piece of sand paper, then verify power to the coil from the key, then test for spark with an inline tester. You could also bypass everything and run a jumper wire to the coil and jump the solenoid to verify if all the basic parts are working or not. Points will also wear and have to be adjusted to set them up correctly. Also lack of cranking from the key (might be the neutral safety switch if your car is equipped with one), and when jumping the solenoid it gives you resistance running voltage (less than full battery power) instead of full voltage (during cranking to help with starting). Points are simple in function when you understand how they work, but basic electrical Is very necessary to be able to work thru your issues. No the alt does not have to be connected for the car to start or run. Maybe you live somewhere close to someone on here that might be willing to come over and teach you how to walk thru the steps, depending on where you're located, it's much easier to diagnose and troubleshoot with all your senses, than from a picture on a screen. But that's why pro mechanics make the big bucks. I do most of my own work and am slowly working thru getting a new to me neglected 74 with a Cleveland running after sitting for years. So I'm by no means an expert, but I'm proficient with diagnosing automotive electrical just new to points as well. Also test all your fuses and fuse able Links and plugs and connections and switches and make sure voltage is going where it needs to when it needs to. Use a test light and a volt meter or a power probe to verify what's going on where and when. Good luck!
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 04-September-2025 at 5:33PM |
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The only wire on the battery side is the large battery cable itself.
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 04-September-2025 at 5:40PM |
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I know that medium sized wire heads towards the firewall, I’ll get some clearer pictures tomorrow of that one.
I cleaned the points after my original post, cleaned the rotor and the inside of the distributor cap as well. Still no spark, I have an inline spark tester to verify that. I tried cranking in neutral to check the neutral safety switch, it still did not crank with turning the key. I have an old family friend hopefully coming by tomorrow to help me diagnose what’s going on, he’s a lot more mechanically inclined than I am. I have a feeling it’s going to be a wiring issue, and he knows his stuff when it comes to that so hopefully I’ll have good news tomorrow evening, or at the very least a diagnosis. |
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Rockatansky
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Posted: 05-September-2025 at 9:32AM |
there's problem #1, you'll need a power feed to the fuse block & dash harness otherwise basically nothing is connected at all. stay alert when you make that connection, with the wiring in that condition anything can happen. not sure i'd leave the battery connected while unattended until you get all of it sorted
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 06-September-2025 at 3:38PM |
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So, last night after looking I discovered that there is in fact, another wire on the battery side of the solenoid. It was just carefully hidden, didn't notice it at first. It's that medium sized red one in the picture going towards the firewall.
I used one of those cheap probe style power checkers, the kind that only light up if there's power, and the coil is getting power from the starter solenoid. So my next option I guess is to replace the coil, my oreillys in town has a few options in stock, gonna have to wait until payday to get one though. What can I check in the meantime to determine why the ignition switch isn't turning the car over? |
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Sak7788
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Posted: 06-September-2025 at 4:27PM |
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Why are you rushing to replace the coil? First clean and check the points then test for spark from the points and the coil by manually opening them and Check the adjustment and make sure they're opening and closing with the engine cranking over.
Start at the key or the solenoid and follow the wiring schematic and trace the starter wire, I'm guessing it passes through the firewall and check the crank fuse in the fuse box, neutral safety switch if automatic or clutch safety switch if a manual transmission. You might have to physically follow the wiring and split some of the loom if you don't find any obvious bad sections or old repairs. For example that bundle of wires taped together near the solenoid picture you posted earlier, it looks like you will have to find and fix any previous owner patch work repairs. My 74 has 3 or 4 fusable links mounted on the battery side of the solenoid but I'm not familiar with how your 71 was originally set up from the factory. Hopefully this helps.
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 06-September-2025 at 5:10PM |
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I’m not rushing to replace anything, that’s why I’m asking on here for help. I already cleaned the points, how do I manually check the points for spark?
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Inkara1
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Posted: 06-September-2025 at 8:41PM |
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You could try pulling the coil to distributor cap wire at the cap and then hold it so the metal part at the end is near something bare metal on the engine, then crank it with the ignition switch in the on position and see if spark jumps from the wire end to the bare metal.
If not, there are a few things to try. I'd say pop the distributor cap off and crank it just to make sure the rotor turns as it's supposed to. To test your coil, unhook all the wires from it. Take your digital multimeter and set it to read ohms. Put your test leads against the + and - terminals, and your multimeter should show between 0.4 and 2 ohms. Then put one lead on the + terminal and the other lead in the high voltage output, and it should read thousands of ohms, like 6,000 to 15,000 ohms. If your readings are in those ranges, then no need to replace your coil.
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1972 Gran Torino station wagon, light blue, 351C 2V, prior owner upgraded to 4V (2V heads), originally had a C4 but prior owner changed to C6 for some reason.
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 07-September-2025 at 5:54AM |
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Tested the coil to distributor plug wire with the engine turning over, no spark jumping to bare metal. The coil is getting power with the engine turning, I checked that. I don’t have a digital multimeter to verify if it’s getting the correct ohms, but I traced the wire going from the coil to the fire wall atleast, and it’s not frayed or split so that leads me to believe my coil is bad. Unless I’m just missing a fuse for it or it’s blown, havent found the fuse box yet. It’s almost 100 outside so I’m not wanting to spend a ton of time out there haha
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 07-September-2025 at 6:26AM |
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Found my fuse box, I’m sure all of this corrosion isn’t helping things out
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Rockatansky
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Posted: 07-September-2025 at 4:45PM |
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time for Plan B
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72 GT Ute
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 08-September-2025 at 12:33AM |
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What’s plan b?
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Sak7788
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Posted: 08-September-2025 at 3:03AM |
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At least you're getting power to the coil. With your test light see if you have power coming out and going to the points in the distributor. The coil charges when the points are closed then fire when the points open. Make sure the points are adjusted so they touch on the flat and open on the top of the lobe. If you get the distributor to a point where they're flat you can open them with a small screwdriver and manually fire the coil. The points will spark when doing this and if you take the coil wire off the cap you can put it near a ground. I changed my points and had the hot wire inside the distributor arcing to ground until I gently adjusted it further away. Just went thru the 2bbl carburetor yesterday (stuck power valve and crusty accelerator pump). Next up replace the fuel pump, hopefully get this thing to run and test the transmission before I pull it out to put in my 73 Gran Torino Sport.
I feel that weather, I'm working outside in the GA heat and humidity as well. That fuse box explains allot! 😦😔 Get a small wire wheel on a Dremel
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Inkara1
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Posted: 09-September-2025 at 4:23AM |
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Is the rotor inside the distributor turning when you crank the engine?
I ask because if it's not turning, then it's also not opening and closing the points to make the coil fire. If it's not turning, that indicates a deeper and more serious problem -- there are a few possibilities, any of which would explain why the car was parked, and would make chasing the no-spark issue a fool's errand until it's fixed. It only takes a few seconds to take off the distributor cap and crank the engine to see if you see the rotor turning counterclockwise, and then you know if you're even chasing the right problem. If you have power to the coil, then I'd think the fuse box isn't the issue for this particular problem. But it will probably keep other things from working. Definitely use something like metal bristles to cut through the rust (obviously unhook the battery first). Before you do that, find out the amperage for each of the fuses and buy new ones. You'll probably have to break the old ones to get them out to clean the connectors. I had to on my car.
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1972 Gran Torino station wagon, light blue, 351C 2V, prior owner upgraded to 4V (2V heads), originally had a C4 but prior owner changed to C6 for some reason.
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 11-September-2025 at 2:18PM |
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The rotor is turning.
I went ahead and swapped coils, got the universal Edelbrock one from Oreillys. That did not fix my problem. Anyone have any ideas what to check next? |
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Rockatansky
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Posted: 22-September-2025 at 4:13PM |
Plan B is tossing your harness in the bin. the rust in that fuse block is there to stay, if you actually did get anything to work you'll be chasing it for eternity member CobraJoe just posted that he's pulled out all his original wiring from his 1968 GT, not sure if or when it might be available but i think it'd be worth asking https://forum.grantorinosport.org/1968-gt_topic21378_post237734.html#237734 |
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72 RS 351
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Posted: 23-September-2025 at 1:34AM |
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I agree, the rust on electrical terminals is a big potential failure point, all of them. The fuse panel would be very hard to clean/treat fully and completely. The wiring terminals were well made and sealed fairly well, but over decades I'd worry with that level of rust(high humidity exposure) for so long. Replacing some things like rusted parts is usually much better in the long run.
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Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000 rpm 351 stroker 73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later. 92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W |
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Wayner315
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Posted: 23-September-2025 at 5:45AM |
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You could soak that fuse block in a bath of rust remover. Stuff works great. But like others said, if the rust is also within the harness and other connections then might be trouble. But if the rust is primarily in the fuse block, maybe a bath?
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72 Gran Torino formal roof Brougham
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 10-November-2025 at 9:40AM |
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Wanted to give a good update.
Yesterday I was able to work on the Ranchero some, I ended up tinkering with the points and got them to start arcing, poured some gas down the carb and after a little bit of work she fired right up, and actually idles really well. Edited by 72FordGTS - 11-November-2025 at 10:03AM |
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Sak7788
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Posted: 10-November-2025 at 12:39PM |
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Thanks for the positive update, it's nice to hear that you made progress and spent the time learning about your points and getting them functioning successfully.
We're you able to get it cranking over with the key?
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 10-November-2025 at 1:27PM |
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No, still no luck on that end.
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Rockatansky
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Posted: 10-November-2025 at 2:14PM |
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it does sound pretty good though, idling a little high, what's it at?
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Bretticuss
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Posted: 10-November-2025 at 2:53PM |
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Not sure, only gauge working is the oil pressure one.
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