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Ignition switch wiring help!

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Mthorpe93 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Ignition switch wiring help!
    Posted: 05-November-2025 at 11:41AM
I am installing a pertronix because my original resisistor wire failed so I figured now is the time. I ordered a new ignition switch pigtails without a resistor wire. 

My question is. The original pigtail had the resistor wire and the red with green stripe wire in the same terminal. Now the new switch says that the red w/green strip goes to coil but I was under impression it went somewhere else and I need to run a new wire to coil to replace resistor wire. 

Can someone clarify where the red w/green wire goes originally (maybe voltage regulators) and if i need to run a new wire, how do I depin the terminal on pigtail to run that new wire at the base of the pigtail instead of splicing one wire into two? 

Sorry I know this all sounds confusing, hoping someone understands and can help
1968 Mercury Cyclone GT 302 4spd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-November-2025 at 6:05PM
 not super familiar with the 68's but 70's fords had green w red stripe wire goes to the coil
the red wire you mentioned going to the green/red could be the 12v bypass for starting? how many small terminals are on you solenoid? some have 1 some have 2 some work through the switch some work from the 2nd terminal of the solenoid to get full 12volts while cranking
 most likely the resistor wire is right from the switch to the bulkhead at the firewall... then possibly a regular wire from the bulkhead to the coil ... you can check resistance with an ohm meter on the wire
 replace the resistor wire with a normal piece of 12 or 14 ga wire
as far as connector terminals...IDK im assuming you have female spade terminals??? if so look closely at the end where it plugs on, on the flat side there should be a small slot use a tiny pic or a paperclip straightened out and slide it in the slot of the plastic connector between the metal terminal and the plastic connector it should bend the internal tab back and the wire will pull outWink to reuse it just bend the little clip back out about 30 degrees with your fingernail the click it back in the connector...
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2025 at 4:17AM
There’s 2 large and 4 small terminals on my switch.
I wasn’t getting any ohms at the coil end of the regular wire that goes from firewall to coil key on. Car cranked and started but died when not on start part of ignition switch, so it was getting full 12v on start. 


I’ll post pictures below. If I can figure out how to remove the red green terminal then I can connect a regular wire and I think I’m good to go. I bought a terminal removal tool but idk if it’s the right one. 



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Mthorpe93 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2025 at 4:23AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2025 at 4:23AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2025 at 4:24AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2025 at 4:59AM
Originally the pink resistor wire was connected at the base of that red green wire pin 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2025 at 9:45PM
 ok havent removed one of those style in a while... youll have to look real close in the round area for a slot or prong thats what holds it in! it wont be at the opening of the "C" its probably straight back from the slot or possibly 2 at the sides???
 i'll bet you have the 2 small terminal type solenoid... normally the one closest to the big battery side energizes the solenoid to starter the second small one closer to the starter wire will be for the 12v bypass to the ign to the coil if you have that extra wire that would go the the ign wire going to the coil for full 12v while cranking ... hope this helps
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90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-November-2025 at 9:52PM
 oh and if you have the 2 terminal solenoid... dont mix up the 2 small wires!!!if they are wrong and you crank it and it starts the starter will stay engaged! if they are switched, if that happens swap them around and it should work correctlyWink
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-November-2025 at 3:30AM
If you goal is to get 12 volts to the pertronix and the coil, why not just use a relay?  When I was running a pertronix, I used the resistor wire to trigger a relay which fed a full 12 volts to the coil and the pertronix module.  Would this work for your circumstance?
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-November-2025 at 2:27PM
I’m under the impression the relay still needed the voltage from the resistor wires that connects to the bulkhead and the wire that come from there to the coil. I have zero voltage right now 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-November-2025 at 2:36PM
I got pin out and found a GM pin that seems like the same size so I think I can get it all back together the way I was thinking and just run a completely new 14ga wire from switch to coil. Eventually I’m going to have to rework the whole car. After seeing the mess under the dash 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-November-2025 at 7:08PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mthorpe93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-November-2025 at 7:08PM
Was able to get it together, now to connect and run the new wire to coil 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-November-2025 at 4:29AM
Originally posted by Mthorpe93 Mthorpe93 wrote:

I’m under the impression the relay still needed the voltage from the resistor wires that connects to the bulkhead and the wire that come from there to the coil. I have zero voltage right now 


My apologies, I misunderstood your post. It seems you have power now, so you could do the relay suggesting that I mentioned. 
Vince

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