INFO: How-To, prep and paint info

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Filler brand is a matter of personal preference, classic bondo, or something like rage filler.Yes, you want filter on bare metal.
Yes, sand the entire car. scotchbrite the jambs. Make sure you wash the car very well before you sand. otherwise you are pushing dirt/grease/wax/etc. into all the little scratches the sanding creates.
Prime any burn thru and any bondo spots, sand to blend and then prime the whole car. Having the car one consistent color makes coverage more uniform. (not chasing shadows thru the paint)
Spray the jambs first, you can mask the jambs or clean up any minor overspray in the jambs when you are done.
As far as primer,paint, clear... Best to stick with a single brand.
Since you are going with a metallic, modern paint, plan on using clearcoat. This will also help with colorsanding and buffing. (some older lacquer systems were available as single stage metallic, but that doesn't appear to be the case with modern paints)
Before you put paint on the car, practice/experiment on some test panels. Get the feel of the gun and learn how it sprays and how to adjust it.

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Big Bird Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 25-August-2013 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 4194	Post Options Post Reply Quote Big Bird Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10-April-2015 at 5:40PM
	Filler brand is a matter of personal preference, classic bondo, or something like rage filler. Yes, you want filter on bare metal. Yes, sand the entire car. scotchbrite the jambs. Make sure you wash the car very well before you sand. otherwise you are pushing dirt/grease/wax/etc. into all the little scratches the sanding creates. Prime any burn thru and any bondo spots, sand to blend and then prime the whole car. Having the car one consistent color makes coverage more uniform. (not chasing shadows thru the paint) Spray the jambs first, you can mask the jambs or clean up any minor overspray in the jambs when you are done. As far as primer,paint, clear... Best to stick with a single brand. Since you are going with a metallic, modern paint, plan on using clearcoat. This will also help with colorsanding and buffing. (some older lacquer systems were available as single stage metallic, but that doesn't appear to be the case with modern paints) Before you put paint on the car, practice/experiment on some test panels. Get the feel of the gun and learn how it sprays and how to adjust it.
	"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind." Randy 1979 T-Bird 2005 F-150 STX RCSB 4.6, 3.55 LSD How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds?

Regul8r Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Moderator Joined: 26-December-2007 Location: Sarasota FL Status: Offline Points: 6624	Post Options Post Reply Quote Regul8r Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10-April-2015 at 5:08PM
	With all the good info I was receiving on this topic I figured I would make it a sticky topic for all to see anytime to get some BASICS info for a reference. Feel free to ask questions and get some input from our resident Professional Paint Guys! This was my dilemma and start of the thread... The body shop wants another $1000-1500 from me on top of what the Toll Truck is going to pay to repaint Dee's Ranger. I don't have that to spend on her paint! THAT deal was with me doing ALL the strip down work AND sanding the truck with 320 grit. I mean I was removing EVERYTHING! Lights, bumpers, weatherstrip, door pieces, wiring, grill, trim etc... I had to make it so all they had to do was the remove the doors to paint he jams, final prep, mask, spray and put the doors back on. I was even pulling the bed and painting between the cab/bed myself too. So if I have to do all that work anyway... I might as well take this opportunity to do my first full paint job! I can do the work. I am not afraid of tackling this but I need some help. I don't know enough about it all so I put together some info and questions. So questions I need some answers/help. '01 Ford Ranger all factory original paint. 1. What bondo type product should I use for the few areas I need to do some small ding/dent work to? 2. When putting on the filler, do I need to remove the paint down to bare metal in those areas for the filler to "stick" 3. DA it with 320 (what the painter told me he needed it to be) on all the surfaces and red scuff pad the jam areas? 4. When sanding and IF I burn through to metal I will need to prime it? 5. Prime over just the worked on spots or prime the whole thing in prep for paint after I sand and scuff? I think these next 2 need some info from me before you answer... The color is going to be a Gloss Metallic Black. Is there a single stage that does not require Clear? My thought is NOT taking the doors off and just spraying the jams best I can with them on. So doing a color and clear in the jams then doing the body and spraying the color and clear again would cause overspray in the jam area? 6. What primer? 7. What type of paint? Is there a single stage that does not require clear coat? 8. If I need to do clear what clear? I am tackling this so help and input to explain this to me in the simplest terms is GREATLY appreciated! Johnnie? Edited by Regul8r - 12-April-2015 at 10:02AM
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