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351w running issues.

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pat83 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pat83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 351w running issues.
    Posted: 29-March-2023 at 1:16PM
Hello I've been having issues with my 1974 Gran Torino Sport not idling quite right its fine one you get it past 2000 rpm but anything below that it acts like it struggling like a loping I've tried every trick I've watched on You Tube still runs the same swapped out my 2150 carburetor with a 2100 carburetor still the same tried timing it it's at factory specs I am going to order a new 2150 carburetor and see if that does the trick if not only thing I can come up with is something else is wrong with the motor like vales or camshaft cause I'm only getting about 12 on the vacuum meter and it hooked directly to the intake vacuum and it moves like the tac does when it loping should I tear apart the engine or get a $500 carburetor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inkara1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-March-2023 at 4:19PM
I'd guess a massive vacuum leak. Unhook the vacuum line from the back of the intake manifold and cap it off, then see if you can idle. If that works, then it's time to go hunting for the leak (brake booster, transmission module, HVAC controls...).
1972 Gran Torino station wagon, light blue, 351C 2V, prior owner upgraded to 4V (2V heads), originally had a C4 but prior owner changed to C6 for some reason.
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pat83 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pat83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-March-2023 at 7:47AM
i unhooked all the vacuum lines and plugged them only one i had hooked up was the one for the pvc valve. trying to eliminate vacuum leaks.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-March-2023 at 9:29AM
 yes check everywhere for a vacuum leak, plug hoses, spray fluid around every source that could leak! if still no luck it could be an internal source like a leaking gasket between the head and intake, or a leaking intake valve not sealing and would allow compression to blow back into the intake channel essentially creating a huge vacuum leak! you may need to do a compression check and a leakdown test...
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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Rockatansky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-March-2023 at 2:02PM
1974, does it still have points in the distributor?

if Yes that's your 1st suspect, i wish i had a nickel for every time shot points sold a new carb. if you're not familiar with installing and setting points to achieve perfect 'Dwell' (feeler gauges can come close or hit the mark on accident but w/o a dwell meter you can't be sure they're set correctly) then get yourself an ignition points replacement / conversion module and install that. you'll have perfect dwell with no adjustments needed ever, never buy another set of points, the engine will run much better and spark plugs will last longer. the list goes on

is there a plate between the carb and intake manifold?

notorious for causing vacuum leaks either by the plate itself burning through or the gaskets crapping out. the lower gasket is a little special, it needs to be exhaust rated. a regular carb gasket won't last in that location
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 78FordLtd2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-April-2023 at 7:59AM
Check the intake. I'd shoot some brake cleaner along rhe intake where it meets the head. That was one of my problems on mine. Changed the valley pan seal and it ran better. To clear up remaining issues, I dove in and changed the timing chain. Runs as it should now. The timing chain  was more of a preventative maintenance thing as it was still the original plastic coated chain. It had quite a bit of slop given the mileage. 

So, check your intake and then check your chain. Both easy to check.
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pat83 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pat83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-April-2023 at 3:37AM
Update been waiting for a nice day finally got one to work on the car. But with working on it trying to get it too run better more issues
1st thing I did was unhooked all vacuum lines and plugged them off.
2nd started the car no change.
3rd spayed brake cleaner all around the carburetor noticed a small difference when spayed at the linkage.
4th took off the carburetor got it apart made sure it was sealing good noticed one gasket gone replaced it.
5th put it back together and put a new gasket under the carb on at this time I did notices a hole on the EGR spacer I don't think should be their(i didn't take a picture) but it shouldn't make a difference cause of the gasket. 
6th after getting it hooked all back up started the car adjusted it no change. I'm frustrated by now
7th I go get the new 2150 carb I ordered. get the old one off put all the parts I need off it onto the new put it together put it back on.
8th start the car at first i did notice it ran smoother but the looping was still their adjusted it and the electric choke kept sticking i tried loosening it it kept sticking now starting to notice a dead spot when i rev it.
9th put the old carb back together back on adjusted it now it runs worse with the dead spot now acting like it wants to die now with a miss as well as a dead spot and the looping sound i did spray around the intake and carb again no change at all I did notice a lot of blow by when I took the EGR valve out. car only shows 39990 and interior and exterior looks it but I'm stating to wonder if its not 139990 I got so frustrated at it i parked it cause at this point I think its the motor. and really don't have the means right now too tear the engine apart(i don't have a garage as of yet or an engine hoist or anything to tear the engine apart fully) and I really don't think it would be worth the money to put into it. I Dunno at my wits endAngry

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-April-2023 at 2:49PM
sounds to me like you need to investigate that spacer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inkara1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-April-2023 at 4:03PM
Can you run it without the spacer for a little bit? If the studs are too long, maybe stack washers under the nuts so they hold the carb down. (This wouldn't be a permanent setup, of course.) Then we can see what happens with the variable of the spacer out of the equation. 

Might find more ideas here:
1972 Gran Torino station wagon, light blue, 351C 2V, prior owner upgraded to 4V (2V heads), originally had a C4 but prior owner changed to C6 for some reason.
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pat83 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pat83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-April-2023 at 9:52AM
got the spacer off today i think that might of been the issue wont get the other one until next week
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-April-2023 at 11:46AM
make sure you get the correct gasket for between the manifold and spacer!

FEL-PRO 60181 or equivalent, it's not the same as the spacer to carb gasket




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