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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-May-2011 at 4:19PM
Mine takes 5qts...73 Cobra Jet...aka Sport model

351Boss has a 6qts pan, better pump, and better pickup I believe
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bdavis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-May-2011 at 4:10PM
I was running through the conversations and was wondering if the stock 351c 4v cobra jet oil pan takes 5 or 6 qts of oil?
-Ben

72 GTS 351c\Q

05 F-150 FX4

BUILT FORD TOUGH!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-May-2011 at 12:32PM
For street engines not seeing over 6k rpm, mostly under 5K street driving...there is nothing wrong with the cleveland oil system.   You do not need a high pressure or high volume oil pump.
 
The biggest problem you will find in reliability is the 2 piece stock valves.  they have a repuation for breaking.   Also, on the rods replace the nuts with ARP nuts.   They nuts also have a repuation for breaking.   The rods are fine for a street build with mild cam as are the rod bolts.
 
When you build a 7K+ rpm motor you have to make some mods like:
oil restrictors for the cam bearings
bushings for the lifters
replace the push rods with oil restictor types
replace main bearing using the 351Boss kit or 2 main kits using the groove bearing top and bottom
get the right lifters, clevelands are different than windsors. you shouldn't put windsor lifters in a cleveland.  Crane has a good rep for cleveland parts.
Use a Boss 351 pan and oil pickup, 6qt
 
Even with doing these mods you dont need a high pressure or high volume oil pump.   These are some of teh things done with the race clevelands when they first came out.   Ford motosport used to source the lifter bushing kits, not any longer.  (Take a close look at the 351 Boss, many of these things were done on the boss from the factory.  Which is why it had a solid lifter cam.)
 
Clevelands are serious powerplants when built right.   They will cost more than a windsor motor, but all other things equal it will always outperform a Windsor.   (The main reason is friction due to the crank bearing size...etc.)  The big block 385 series are very similar (bigger sibling), just scaled up in size.   Same oiling system issues. 
 
I have some reference links and books that I will try to dig up and put on this post.  
 
The only thing I wish that I could change on the cleveland (except the oil system) is a taller deck height so I could stroke it without forcing the piston pin to close to the ring pack.  I like full skirt pistons and bulding it to be as reliable as stock for everyday driving.   IMO, that means that stroking beyond 392 cubes or 408 max wont be as reliable for street.
 
There is a good after market aluminum block that can be bought with a 9.5" deck height.   Check out the Fontana block or now Tod Buttermore is suppose to bring one out.  The Fontana block has been out for a while now.
 
 
Basically, a 351C crank in a 351W block.   I plan to stroke my cleveland and use chevy sized rods.
 
The biggest issues I have read about the clevelands is the oil system for race motors...its as if the managers at ford went into a cost cutting binge stopping the engineers from finishing the motor the right way.   Second, was quality control...I understand that some blocks were not square.  The bores weren't correct across the engine and the only way to fix that is have it bored 30 over and aligned/squared ( cant remember the correct terminology).
 
There are some very knowledgable guys in the Pantera forums.   I have found most of the good info there.
 
Check these links out:
 
 
 
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fordified V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-August-2010 at 2:17PM
No good on the fit to stock as the bolt diameter is off by about 2".
I went to the B&M site and found out that a new flexplate is required.

May as well since just about every part has been refurbished from crank pulley to tailshaft housing.

I needed longer header bolts anyway as I am using Stinger exhaust port plates, so it's not like I could have fired it up anyway.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-August-2010 at 10:34AM
your 8 stud/nut flex/converter is the factory Cobra Jet 2800 stall set up, does the new converter not fit the flex at all? it'll be fine with 4 mounting points if they line up 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fordified V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-August-2010 at 3:23AM
According to the spec it holds 6 quarts. I originally purchased the 8 quart Milodon but when I dropped the engine into place the pan interfered with the cross member. This Moroso was not only less money
but is shaped almost exactly like the original. Unfortunately, I was poised to install yesterdat but ran into another issue with the B&M torque converter that I selected. Once again, according to Summit was the correct part. However, my original flex plate & torque converter are an eight bolt pattern & the B&M is a 4 bolt pattern. As for the dipstick, even though I still have the original I had purchased a Milodon to accomidate the deep pan. It was $50.00 and decided to keep it because it is cool. Billit aluminum & SS braided. The dipstick issue ought to be easy to get around so long as it seats properly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-August-2010 at 3:55PM
does that pan really take 6 qts to the full mark on a stock dipstick?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fordified V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-August-2010 at 10:59AM
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20557/

I found this to be ideal for my 500HP + build & fits my 72" chassis.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2010 at 12:27PM
if it is rust i'd say replace it for sure with either quality or stock. the Cobra Jet pan has a baffle in it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2010 at 8:58AM
My stock pan is very rusty and there sre small leaks around the top edge. Before I buy a new one I am going to drop the pan, sand it and coat it with soe POR-15 and also replace the gasket, I am thinking the gasket is the culprit. I didnt know they made chrome pans, seems kind of stupid as nobody looks under the car LOL. I will start a new thread on the cams in the 72-76 forum because I want broad responses from people with different engines. Thanks Rockatansky, SquireCJ and MTburger
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SquireCJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2010 at 8:07AM
I just installed a Lunati 5203 in my 1972 Ranchero Gt 4 speed, I only have a few hundred miles on it and so far I like it.  The power range is bit higher than stock but there is lots of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2010 at 4:16AM
what's wrong with your stock pan? good replacements aren't cheap, cheap ones aren't good and chrome leaks. the cheap chrome pans are less than 5 quarts.  i'd rather fix a stock pan than use new junk. actually strip duty might not be as bad as the open road for pumping the pan dry, you can keep your foot down a lot longer on the interstate. something to check is the oil return drains from the head at the head gasket. i found that the gasket doesn't always line up right and significantly blocks off the return hole in the block, i haven't checked if the head lines up with the gasket yet
 
a mild build should be fine with a standard oil pump & stock pan 
 
no experience with Lunati but lots of guys like them. i'd start a new thread, you'll get more traffic to the topic


Edited by Rockatansky - 02-August-2010 at 4:41AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-August-2010 at 3:38AM
Thanks guys, since my oil pan will probably need replaced, should I go with a bigger 6 quart? I'm not worried about the oil because the car will most likely never see a strip, but I figure if I am having to buy a new pan, might as well get a bigger one, right? Off topic but I dont think it is worth starting another thread about, has anyone had experience with Lunati? I am liking the Voodoo camshafts 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-August-2010 at 6:16PM
the original lifters from Ford didn't flow a ton of oil to the top, aftermarket lifters flow much more than Ford designed for, some more than others. agree that the stock system is fine for 90% of builds as is, & pan volume is a big help. stock HO Clevelands came with a baffled pan & a dipstick that read full with 6 quarts in the same pan as base model 5 quart Cleveland. under hard use that extra quart is 'in limbo' draining back to the pan.
 
a cooler isn't necessary but i noticed right away that my P71 Crown Vic with a cooler kept it's oil clean much longer than any engine i've ever had w/o a cooler. the cooler lines would route from an adapter that installs between the block and oil filter, or you could remote mount the filter to the frame or fenderwell depending upon the adapter you choose
 
 


Edited by Rockatansky - 01-August-2010 at 6:17PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-July-2010 at 12:51PM
Just a few comments on this one.
 
There is a bunch of mis-information on the Cleveland oiling system. It has been well documented.
 
1) The 351 Cleveland and 429-460 use the same design oiling system. Both engines use the same path to oil there internal components, but the 429-460 never gets the bad press the Cleveland does. If it is a poor design on one, how come not on both?
 
2) The biggest mistake you can make on a Cleveland is to put a high volume pump in the engine with a stock capacity pan. You increase the volume of oil moved by the pump, but never increase the volume of oil you are moving.
 
Instant problem.
 
I have seen multiple people do any combination of the following.
 
Install a high volume pump. 
Install a high pressure pump. 
Put a high pressure spring into a high volume pump to make a high pressure, high volume pump.
 
BUT THEY NEVER PUT A BIG PAN ON IT.
 
If you use a stock pan, use a stock pump.
 
If you upgade the pump, spend the money on a quality, high capacity pan and matching pickup.
 
Mike H.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SquireCJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2010 at 6:13PM
have had several 351 Cleveland rebuilt for street use and currently have 6 cars that have 351 Clevelands all built for street use.  I have asked all kinds of questions to many different "Engine Experts" specifically 351 Cleveland experts and I am told that the only oil issue with the Cleveland is when you get into the real high revving performance engines and that there is no real need for modifications to the oiling system for a street engine. The issue has to do with oil starvation at real high revs and if needed there is a simple rerouting kit you can pick up on Ebay that attaches to the oil pug just above the oil filter and fuel pump and connects to the back of the block where the oil pressure  sensor mounts.  I don't think an oil cooler  would address the oil starvation issue if in fact you would be having the oil starvation issue with your engine setup.  I just had a 1972 351 Cleveland Cobra Jet rebuilt with a new Lunati cam, new higher performance springs, roller rockers
and high volume oil pump.  I was told no need for further modifications to the oiling system.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2010 at 5:05AM

I always hear about how Clevelands have poor oiling systems and how all of thoses mods should be done to be safe. Is this really necessary for street engines? If I were to install a perma cool oil cooler, how would I tap into the oil? from the pan?

Thanks,
-Lou
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