| Author |
Topic Search Topic Options
|
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Topic: Having Wiring Problems With my 1970 Ford Ranchero Posted: 17-December-2025 at 3:11PM |
My grandfather recently gave me his 1970 Ranchero with a 302 and an Auto column shift trans. I have been having issues getting the car started from the key. It has been sitting for around a year and a half after my grandfather had a stroke and he reversed the polarity on the battery. To get it running from jumping the solenoid I had to replace the electric ignition conversion kit because it was fried and giving me no spark. I have also replaced the ignition switch in it as well and my grandfather had it replaced a while back too.
But I noticed that the switch seemed to be from a 71 because the actual plug for the switch was gone and the wires were very poorly spliced together. I could not find a switch for a 70 other than one on ebay for around 300 bucks and it seemed that the only difference was the plug which I do not even have the car side for the plug after it had already been replaced once.
Before I cut the fried ignition switch out it was all wired correctly other than having a red wire with a green tracer spliced into a red wire with a yellow tracer on the car side. The red with yellow tracer on the switch side was going to nothing. Also there was a violet wire spliced into the big black wire with green tracer which it seemed to go to the printed circuit connecter which goes to the cluster.
So that's the background knowledge for the most part and now I will continue what has happened and what I have done to the car now it will be kind of out of order just to make more sense of what caused what.
So since apparently it has been slipping into reverse for as long as my grandfather has had it, I did some research and discovered that back in the 60s and 70s that was a big issue for Fords and the culprit was usually the gear shift linkage inside of the column going bad. So I tested this and without pulling the gear selector towards you to get it out of park it will go through what seems to be all the gears: R N D 1 2.
What's interesting is this past Monday me not knowing that I decided to check the linkage located on the trans itself and I loosened and put the trans in neutral and had my buddy in the car make sure the key was on and he didn't know that the key was on and then it started cranking which it didn't before. I also got turn signals then which I didn't have before. I also have never had lights, horn and backup and break lights.
But continuing what happened on that Monday I was testing to see the ignition switch wiring to see if the red and yellow and the red and green wire would do anything different if connected to the car side red and yellow. And when the red and yellow was connected to the red and yellow you would crank the car and it would run but only when the key was in the crank position with the starter still going so I immediately stopped that. But when the red and green wire was connected to red and yellow (how the previous switch was wired) it would start up and run like a normal car.
However still didn't have lights and other things all I had was turn signals. So i went for a test drive after putting the steering column back tight and the cluster back in the car. I had left the violet wire that was spliced into the black and green wire and the red and yellow wire on the switch side both not spliced.
I noticed mid drive I had lost my turn signals working and when I got back I turned the car off and then a few minutes later I went back to It and tried to turn it on and it would not even crank and a white box with a black top with vacuum lines which I think is something to do with the distributor and to retard timing for emissions with the part number D0AF-9E718 is clicking when trying to crank the car and also when I pull the hazard light switch. Also when I started it and tried to go for a drive it slipped into reverse.
So I am thinking the reason for it not starting from the key is dealing with the car slipping into gear and the linkage inside the column being bad and the neutral safety switch effecting that. Another thing is that my grandfather had told me and my father was whenever the car would not start he would jiggle the signal switch connector which connects the wires coming from that into the rest of the harness.
Looking at the wiring diagram I found almost every accessory or part that didn't work leads back to that connecter: my lights, horn, signals etc. The connector does not seem to sit right and connect to the other side very well, and the column side connector is black and the main harness side is white and I do not know if that is correct I'm assuming its not.
I know this is a lot and if I forgot something I will add more and if I discover anything new with the car. But it would be great if anyone could give me some insight on any of this and I am working on the car in my schools auto shop class so I would hope to have the car at least running and driving with everything working enough before the summer.
Edited by 72FordGTS - 18-December-2025 at 2:14AM
|
 |
californiajohnny
Moderator Group
Joined: 05-October-2013
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: 14723
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17-December-2025 at 4:11PM |
not real familiar with the 70/71's... but the green w/red stripe is your + to the coil also check that you have full 12V there! with electronic ign you need full 12V (originally there was a resistor wire to drop it to 8V for the original points system just run a new wire  the jumping into reverse was common on the c-4's... make sure the linkage is adjusted so it is fully pulling it into park at the transmission it many adjusted them to line up with the PRND21 indicator which they rarely ever do
|
|
JOHN 74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17-December-2025 at 4:39PM |
|
Yea the red and green is sending a full 12v and I have already adjusted the linkage twice and it just wont even crank from the key now which is what it was doing before I loosened up the linkage and put it into reverse the first time.
|
 |
72FordGTS
Admin Group
GTS.org Admin
Joined: 06-September-2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 6780
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18-December-2025 at 2:18AM |
If you suspect the neutral safety switch is the issue, have you tried temporarily bypassing it?
|
|
Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car
GTS.org Admin
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18-December-2025 at 3:49AM |
|
I am using the wiring diagram that you sent the link for it’s the same one. I don’t know if I can bypass the neutral safety switch from starting it with the key but the car does start when you jump the solenoid.
|
 |
Inkara1
Senior Member
Joined: 17-November-2021
Location: Ridgecrest, CA
Status: Offline
Points: 515
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18-December-2025 at 12:04PM |
|
Ford's neutral safety switches are well known for wearing out. But on the other hand, it's a bit of a theft deterrent. On my dad's 1967 Ranchero, he has to push the floor shifter forward and then it'll crank, and on his 1969 Fairlane with column shift, he reaches behind and across the steering wheel with his left arm to pull up on the shifter while using his right hand to turn the key. I'm fortunate to not have had the same issue on my 1962 Fairlane or 1972 Gran Torino wagon. But maybe if you pull up on the column shifter while turning the key, it'll allow it to crank.
|
|
1972 Gran Torino station wagon, light blue, 351C 2V, prior owner upgraded to 4V (2V heads), originally had a C4 but prior owner changed to C6 for some reason.
|
 |
72FordGTS
Admin Group
GTS.org Admin
Joined: 06-September-2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 6780
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18-December-2025 at 1:25PM |
1970Chero wrote:
I am using the wiring diagram that you sent the link for it’s the same one. I don’t know if I can bypass the neutral safety switch from starting it with the key but the car does start when you jump the solenoid. |
You should be able to run a temporary jumper wire to bypass the switch to rule out the switch. Just be careful when you do that you make sure the car is in park when you try to start, and foot on the brake for obvious safety reasons. This would just be used to diagnose only. If the switch is bad, replace it.
Edited by 72FordGTS - 18-December-2025 at 1:30PM
|
|
Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car
GTS.org Admin
|
 |
Rockatansky
Senior Member
Joined: 30-July-2010
Location: On The Road
Status: Offline
Points: 6398
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18-December-2025 at 1:51PM |
|
if this is a mechanical shift linkage there are plastic bushings that wear out, crack, break and fall out of the brackets under the car
|
|
72 GT Ute
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19-December-2025 at 4:07AM |
So I have an update I figured out I had a bad body ground and that’s why it wouldn’t start. Now I know the linkage in the column is bad I believe because what shows on the gear indicator is not actually what gear it’s in. I got it into neutral while the car was running however if you turn it off it won’t let you turn the key because it says it’s in reverse. So I have to change that linkage out or fix it somehow. My turn signals, radio and wipers work. My headlights, brake lights, reverse lights, and horn still do not work.
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19-December-2025 at 11:28AM |
|
Another update. I was able to put the transmission into neutral and then disconnect the linkage, then put the shifter into N and then reconnect it so it all lines up. That now works. However I still don't have headlights/tail lights, reverse lights (wondering if its the safety switch even though the car starts now), brake lights and my horn. My turn signals, radio, and windshield wipers work though. When looking at the wiring diagram all of the things that do not work lead back to the Directional Signal Connector (except the backup lights which go to the safety switch). Now it seems to not be connecting and sitting fully correctly. The car side is white and the column side is black so I do not know if that is correct or not. As well as my grandfather told me when the car would not start on him he would jiggle that connector and those wires. So I am thinking something with that could be messed up.
|
 |
72FordGTS
Admin Group
GTS.org Admin
Joined: 06-September-2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 6780
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 10:02AM |
|
Thats good you got the switch sorted. As for your lights, radio, etc, have you checked form power at the fuse box to each of those circuits? Start there.
|
|
Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car
GTS.org Admin
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 10:12AM |
|
Well when I checked the fuses only two of them were not working and I am not sure why because they are not blown.
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 10:34AM |
|
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 10:35AM |
|
Those are the two that have no power with the key on or off
|
 |
Sak7788
Member
Joined: 08-August-2025
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: 45
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 11:43AM |
What are those fuses labeled? 🙃🧐 Headlights and taillights should have direct battery power not ignition or turn signal switch dependant.
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 11:50AM |
|
That’s what I was thinking because the lights should have power always. And I’m not really sure what they say but I will send a more clear picture.
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 11:51AM |
|
|
 |
Sak7788
Member
Joined: 08-August-2025
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: 45
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 12:05PM |
Short is "4 Amp Inst"-(instrument-dash/gauge) lights. It will get power from the headlight switch, sometimes you have to play with rotating the knob after it's pulled out and find a sweet spot where they will work. I would pull and inspect your headlight switch and check for corroded connections and possibly check/trace the fuseable link by the starter relay that would supply battery power inside the car and the bulkhead connection (plug) where the wires pass thru the firewall.
Long is "14 amp Warn Lps" is the warning lights in the dash powered by the ignition switch
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 12:08PM |
|
Ok thank you for your help. I will check this out when I can. The car is still at the auto shop at my school and I just started my winter break.
|
 |
Sak7788
Member
Joined: 08-August-2025
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: 45
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 12:28PM |
Another tip for working on older cars, allot of times wiggling or un plugging and plugging stuff back in can clean old connections, same with bulbs and fuses. Even on newer cars, I'll pull and inspect or just wiggle blade fuses back and forth to make sure they're making good connection. Especially if whatever has sat for any length of time.
Gat a low voltage 12v test light, volt meter, and a power probe and watch some how to videos to learn how to use them to diagnose and test circuits and connections if you don't know already. Knowledge and tools that will come in handy and last you a lifetime.
|
 |
Sak7788
Member
Joined: 08-August-2025
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: 45
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20-December-2025 at 12:42PM |
Then learning how to read and understand the electrical schematics. They have one for your car on here, or one close enough to be the same where it matters 70 Ranchero/ 70 Torino are basically the same in the front where it matters. The roadmap for your cars wiring.
|
 |
Rockatansky
Senior Member
Joined: 30-July-2010
Location: On The Road
Status: Offline
Points: 6398
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21-December-2025 at 7:36AM |
2nd the wiggle test, quite a bit of oxidization going there. i'd pull all the fuses and check them 'on the bench', the old glass fuses can corrode internally and be failed while they appear good. then go to work on the fuse block with a product called DeoxIT. i've not used it yet myself but have heard good things https://www.amazon.com/s?k=deoxit&ref=nb_sb_noss
|
|
72 GT Ute
|
 |
dan0R30
Senior Member
Joined: 30-June-2020
Location: USA
Status: Offline
Points: 687
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21-December-2025 at 2:05PM |
|
I've used DeoXit gold wipes on connections and can testify it goes from bad to good like magic!!
|
|
Dan
1970 Ford Torino hardtop - 351C 4V - FMX - 9" 3.89 TrueTrac
|
 |
1970Chero
New Member
Joined: 17-December-2025
Location: Fairfax VA
Status: Offline
Points: 12
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24-December-2025 at 3:09AM |
|
Ok thank you all I will try all of this when I can. But I want to be able to clear something up. So my directional switch connector when I trace the wires everything that doesn’t work: horn, headlights, taillights go through that. It seems to not seat right and the car side is a white plastic connector but the column side is a black connector. My grandfather said whenever the car did not start on him he would just jiggle those wires. Is that supposed to be like that with the black and the white connectors or are the connectors supposed to be the same color.
|
 |
Sak7788
Member
Joined: 08-August-2025
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: 45
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 25-December-2025 at 6:51AM |
https://forum.grantorinosport.org/uploads/457/1970_Ford_Torino_Wiring_Diagram.pdf
Print out the top two related pages and have them laminated so you can use dry erase markers to figure out your cars wiring and see where power is going. It explains what plug does what and what wires go where.
As long as the two halves fit together clean and tight it shouldn't matter that they are different colors. Disconnect, clean, inspect and reconnect any suspect connection just like you were advised to do with the fuse block. The directional switch could have been changed in the past. Most likely wiggling that harness caused the ignition harness/switch/plug to move and refresh a loose/poor connection just by location and coincidence since they're both on the steering column. You should be able to unplug or even totally remove the directional switch and still be able to crank and drive the car.
When you get a chance after you return back to school and have access to the car, loosen and drop the steering column down so you can gain access to the ignition switch and the wiring around it. That will help gain access to plugs and switches so you can inspect and clean and test what is going on at the source. Combine that with a printed laminated diagram will help you test and diagnose what your car is and isn't doing.
Headlight power is red/yellow out of the headlight switch into the floor dimmer switch and out as red/black low and green black high beam thru the firewall plug out to the headlights. Running lights are brown coming out of the headlight switch thru the firewall plug and out to the front marker lights of the car and, black thru the rear body plug to the rear tag lights/(brown)marker lights. None of those go thru the directional switch plugs.
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/ez-wiring-and-stock-headlight-switch-question.915338/
This might help you understand, it's similar but not exact, but close enough to help with understand how the power flows thru the headlight switch. Older cars didn't run the front marker lights with the headlights, yours runs them all that's why that pin (P- front park lamps) is not used or labeled in the schematic.
Similar information for the directional switch
https://68vert.blogspot.com/2019/05/turn-signal-switch-twitch-testing.html?m=1
Ignition switch help
Alternative to replace your old ignition switch with a cheaper option.
https://forum.classiccougarcommunity.com/t/replace-your-1970-ignition-switch-for-under-20/8709
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1970-ignition-switch-options.1101010/
Edited by Sak7788 - 25-December-2025 at 6:56AM
|
 |
californiajohnny
Moderator Group
Joined: 05-October-2013
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: 14723
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 25-December-2025 at 11:29PM |
|
the inst light fuse will have power when you turn on the lights... it flows through the fuse to the dash bulbs. hazard warning lights may work the same way power flows through the fuse after turned on then to the lights?
|
|
JOHN 74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
|
 |