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Where to tap power for HEI Dist.

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    Posted: 18-November-2023 at 4:02AM
Where can I tap for power to get the full keyed voltage for a HEI distributor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schufitz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-November-2023 at 4:47AM
There's a stud on the fuse pane if you want dedicated.  I'd guess some under hood could be tapped as well, not certain which.




Dave
1969 Torino GT/351W 2V/FMX/Vinyl Top/Black Jade/Gold Stripes/Nugget Gold Buckets/Console/Racing Mirrors/AC/PS/PDB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DocGreen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-November-2023 at 3:05AM
Sorry for the denseness.  Would this be keyed?  Or what kind of battery drain would it be if not?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schufitz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-November-2023 at 5:45AM
I've seen no drain when the key is off.  I used it to tap power for an electrical temp gauge and factory tach. The tach was re-done to a 3-wire set up, so needed a switched 12V power source. Depending on the car's options, it may already have a black wire on the stud and a yellow plug with 3 female connections on the other end of that wire.  I got a 1/8" (?) male end connector for the power source wire and plugged into the yellow 3-hole female connector.   It's easy enough to confirm no power draw with a 12V test light at the various key positions.

Edited by schufitz - 21-November-2023 at 6:26AM
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DocGreen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-November-2023 at 2:25AM
Thanks, but I have no stud on either of my vehicles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schufitz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-November-2023 at 4:11AM
What year/model? 
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pyntre Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-November-2023 at 5:48AM
All these old cars need a new add on power distribution 
block / fuse panel . It makes wiring and adding accessories so much easier !! They just weren’t designed from the factory for anything other than what it was built with . 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DocGreen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-November-2023 at 8:40AM
I have a 68 Ranchero and a 69 Torino Convertable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DocGreen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-January-2024 at 7:14AM
Sorry but the post in fuse box does not function when cranking the engine.  Distributor does not get power that way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-January-2024 at 7:54AM
 replace the resister wire coming from the ignition switch with a standard wire straight to the HEIWink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RacerJames Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-January-2024 at 9:49AM
FWIW I run the Duraspark ignition on all my (race) stock cars. There was a distributor test done by Car Craft or Hot Rod Magazine back in 1987 which showed that the Duraspark sent a more powerful pulse to the plug, had less spark scatter at over 5k RPM and was and still is less expensive than all the other systems tested. If I recall correctly, they tested it against Mallory, MSD and GM's HEI. Guess which one was at the bottom of all those tests? I hate seeing folks put HEI's in their Fords. :(
When I wire the race car, I use a mopar style ballast resistor for 6v power on the run side of the coil, and 12 v battery power on the crank side of the module.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-January-2024 at 11:52AM
Originally posted by RacerJames RacerJames wrote:

FWIW I run the Duraspark ignition on all my (race) stock cars. There was a distributor test done by Car Craft or Hot Rod Magazine back in 1987 which showed that the Duraspark sent a more powerful pulse to the plug, had less spark scatter at over 5k RPM and was and still is less expensive than all the other systems tested. If I recall correctly, they tested it against Mallory, MSD and GM's HEI. Guess which one was at the bottom of all those tests? I hate seeing folks put HEI's in their Fords. :(
When I wire the race car, I use a mopar style ballast resistor for 6v power on the run side of the coil, and 12 v battery power on the crank side of the module.


Nothing against Duraspark because it is good, but HEI modules do have some advantages.  If the HEI tested by that magazine was a lo-po OEM style 4-pin, they did perform poorly at anything beyond mid-range RPM.  However, a good performance HEI module does not have this issue.  There are lots of junk HEI modules out there and junk knockoff GM type HEI distributors, but there are also lots of junk duraspark modules.  Like some others on this forum, I run a hybrid of a Ford Duraspark but use a quality performance HEI module instead of the duraspark module.  It works very well.  I generally prefer to keep Ford parts on a Ford, but that doesn't mean the "other guys" stuff is all junk.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pyntre Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-January-2024 at 12:46PM
I run the Duraspark distributor with a high quality HEI module too. 
Easy to wire , easy to install , cheap , and it works flawlessly.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RacerJames Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-January-2024 at 2:26AM
Granted, If you never go over 5000 RPM it's actually a moot point. Spark scatter isn't a problem until one goes into higher RPMs. Even the cheapies will perform adequately up to that engine speed. However, a hotter pulse from the coil does help in cold start and other fuel heavy conditions, and that's where the original Duraspark shines.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter.jenerette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-January-2024 at 12:33AM
[Cross post, I have a similar post in my Project thread]
Can someone take a look at this wiring diagram for a 72, as I plan on adding an HEI to my build as well, I want to make sure I fully understand the existing circuitry.

In looking at this, it appears to me that the coil will get the full 12v while in the "Start" (Green)position, and power through the resistor wire only when in the "Run"(Red) position. 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2024 at 5:45AM
Originally posted by peter.jenerette peter.jenerette wrote:

[Cross post, I have a similar post in my Project thread]
Can someone take a look at this wiring diagram for a 72, as I plan on adding an HEI to my build as well, I want to make sure I fully understand the existing circuitry.

In looking at this, it appears to me that the coil will get the full 12v while in the "Start" (Green)position, and power through the resistor wire only when in the "Run"(Red) position. 




Yes, in the start position, the coil gets the full 12 volts, while in run, ti goes through the resistor wire.

I used a relay to power my ignition.  Use the original coil wire as a trigger than run a dedicated 12 volt circuit right from the solenoid (fused).  This way you can use a decent sized wire to power the ignition and you can use a larger gauge wire.
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter.jenerette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2024 at 1:35AM

Quote
I used a relay to power my ignition.  Use the original coil wire as a trigger than run a dedicated 12 volt circuit right from the solenoid (fused).  This way you can use a decent sized wire to power the ignition and you can use a larger gauge wire.

Since the original coil wire doesn't get the full 12V, what did you use for a relay? In the diagram, I see the rating to be 1.3 T 1.4 ohms, isn't this about 7v-9v at the coil? Most relays are rated at 12v, will this lower voltage "hold" the relay. (I could wire it to kick in the relay with the "start" wire, and then have the "run" wire maintain it.)  Appreciate your feedback!

Thanks,
Pete Jenerette
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2024 at 4:48AM
72 GT Ute
   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2024 at 12:24PM
As the specs show above, it doesn't take 12 volts to trigger a std 12 volt relay or keep it closed. I have never had an issue with it triggering just using the coil wire.  It will trigger the relay and provide power even before I turn the ignition to start.
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