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Need help - starter, fuel pump, solenoid switch |
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tom72torino
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Joined: 18-March-2016 Location: Austria Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Topic: Need help - starter, fuel pump, solenoid switchPosted: 26-March-2025 at 9:42PM |
Hi everyone, |
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Have a nice day!
Greetings from austria! Thomas |
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peter.jenerette
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Joined: 08-February-2023 Location: Nevada, TX Status: Offline Points: 1054 |
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Posted: 26-March-2025 at 11:14PM |
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Welcome,
The parts appear to be correct. Solenoid - make sure when you mount the solenoid the mounts are clean and provide a good ground. Fuel pump - When you replace it try to get a look in to the eccentric make sure its not worn, basically when you put it in you slide it in so the lever is under the eccentric; sometimes turning the engine some will move it to the top of the run making it easier to install and not require you to actuate the lever as you try to mount it. Replace the hose to the main gas line to the pump, if possible the hose from the tank to the line. Replace the fuel filter and hose at the carb. Starter - Make sure you use two wrenches when tightening the cable, these are commonly twisted off if you don't hold the lower bolt when tightening the retaining bolt. Good luck!
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Pete Jenerette
1972 Gran Torino (H-Code - 4R70W) 2022 F250 XLT 7.3 2003 Thunderbird |
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handsofstone
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Joined: 13-April-2018 Location: Northeast Status: Offline Points: 4229 |
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Posted: 27-March-2025 at 1:32PM |
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Good advice Peter.
And when removing the old fuel pump be careful not to spray yourself in the eyes with gas. I made that mistake many years ago at night in the road in front of my house. And when installing the new pump the gasket wants to fall out of place. Glue it in place with permatex to save from a headache. I had just finished an oil change and when I was looking for leaks found gas was coming out of the pump. The fresh oil was replaced with zero miles. That was a disappointment to say the least. |
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Eliteman76
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Joined: 20-March-2006 Location: Nebraska, USA Status: Offline Points: 5450 |
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Posted: 02-April-2025 at 7:24AM |
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Regarding things:
Fuel pumps, I would strongly consider a RobbMc 351C fuel pump. It is a performance pump, but it is rebuildable. Most standard replacement fuel pumps on the market are cheap Chinese reproduces that you can easily fold with your hands, and I would only use in an emergency situation. This pump would require a regulator, and if stock 2 barrel carb, it may be complete overkill. Agreed on using some permeated rev black or high temp copper to glue the gasket to the pump prior to install. Alternatively, Carter is still making pumps, but no first hand experience with their quality. I would suggest for the price, and planning to keep your car due to overseas, consider buying 2-3 pumps. I would also buy 2-3 spare pump gaskets: Also consider replacing fuel filter for your carb. May also want to consider the filter sock for your fuel tank pickup...but that would require a new gasket for the sending unit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/372420969467?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tStYh4yxRSi&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=J_NhoYUcQdm&widget_ver=artemis&media Starter Relay: consider Motorcraft part number SW-7663 Starter, consider looking to 1988-1995 Ford F series or Bronco 5.8L / 351W starter. Uses a gear reduction for easier starts. I swapped out the stock 70's style starter, and the gear reduction starters are a much better design. Also more compact and keeps the starter further away from exhaust manifolds or exhaust headers. Bosch makes a branch new unit, but I am waiting for them to confirm if part number SR7542N is an automatic or manual transmission application. Nose cones are different length auto vs manual. Other item on the starters will be the flex plate. Likely due to 351C, you have the 164 tooth flex plate. I have a manual transmission application and nose cones affect things but gear reduction is the way to go to be blunt. Another option is AC Delco, automatic application, brand new. I am less and less enthused with remanufactured starters these days. Consider examining your starter and battery cables at the same time. Starter solenoid to starter cable: (will need to measure length of existing cable, I don't recall if 36, 48 or 60 inches long. Also consider review of battery cables that are positive (red) from battery to solenoid, and then the ground (black) to the engine block on the front left side of the block near the alternator. |
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Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed RestomodPondering: #99Problems |
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Inkara1
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Joined: 17-November-2021 Location: Ridgecrest, CA Status: Offline Points: 515 |
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Posted: 02-April-2025 at 11:40AM |
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I have the Carter fuel pump on my 351C. So far so good, although it's only been about a year and maybe 1,500 miles.
If you get the starter for the 1990s V8s, just know that there is a wiring modification you have to do. It's easy, but crucial to know that you have to do it.
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1972 Gran Torino station wagon, light blue, 351C 2V, prior owner upgraded to 4V (2V heads), originally had a C4 but prior owner changed to C6 for some reason.
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72 RS 351
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Joined: 04-September-2014 Location: Knoxville TN Status: Offline Points: 3445 |
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Posted: 02-April-2025 at 2:37PM |
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The latest 302 starters got that change to a ring terminal for the trigger wire, instead of the old spade terminal. Spade terminals hold with tension, the ring terminal uses a bolt. I heard that many from parts stores come with a short wire section and a ring terminal, to help upgrade the factory wire. So yes look for that, it's not hard to do with a decent stripper and crimp tool.
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Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000 rpm 351 stroker 73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later. 92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W |
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