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New car, have questions.

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Bretticuss View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26-December-2025 at 2:32AM

Hello all, I have been posting in the ranchero forum for some time now. I owned a 71 ranchero GT for a little while. I posted on a Facebook group that I was looking to trade my ranchero for a 71 Torino GT. Surprisingly, I had someone relatively close to where I live reach out to me wanting to trade. So, I picked up a 71 Torino GT. 351C with a C4. I have always wanted a 70/71 Torino Fastback, it has been my dream car for as long as I remember.
 I do have a few questions for yall:
The previous owner fixed up the area around the battery tray, but there is no actual battery tray in the car.

I found this replacement from auto krafters, https://autokrafters.com/battery-tray-1970-ford-fairlane-1970-71-torino-cyclone-montego-1971-73-mustang-cougar-black-d0oz-10732b/ , has anyone used this one or any similar? Hows the quality? 
He replaced the passenger torque box, but the driver side needs to be replaced. Anyone have a link to a replacement torque box? 


Previous owner claims the intake and the heads are cobra jet. The vin does match a 2v Cleveland, and now there's a 4v intake and heads on it. How can I verify if the heads and intake are cobra jet? Is there any noticeable difference with cobra jet and a stock 4v? 
I'm sure I will have more questions as time goes on, I am really excited to get to work on this car! 
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Bretticuss View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bretticuss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-December-2025 at 2:33AM
Didn't realize the post would look so weird, oh well! 
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dan0R30 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dan0R30 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-December-2025 at 3:31AM
As far as the battery tray, I used that one and it works well. I will say that I also replaced the entire apron with the 71-73 Mustang part, so it was intended to go together. But I believe there was no difference in the bolt locations between Torino and Mustang for this year.


There's also a support plate underneath that is currently only reproduced by an individual named Dan, I bought one 3-4 years ago for $30: postaldan at msn.com.

Dan

1970 Ford Torino hardtop - 351C 4V - FMX - 9" 3.89 TrueTrac
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-December-2025 at 4:11AM
Wow, nice car!  The 70-71 fastbacks are super cool cars, one of my favourites too.  

As for the torque boxes, I think Sherman used to repop them but they are no longer in production.  I quick search on google found passenger side NOS repops on eBay but no driver side.


One of our members, JRanger, who has a video on torque box repair:


Here is his project thread which may have more info:

https://forum.grantorinosport.org/patches-71-torino-gt_topic20621.html
Vince

1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-December-2025 at 3:52AM
Originally posted by Bretticuss Bretticuss wrote:


Previous owner claims the intake and the heads are cobra jet. The vin does match a 2v Cleveland, and now there's a 4v intake and heads on it. How can I verify if the heads and intake are cobra jet? Is there any noticeable difference with cobra jet and a stock 4v?  

so H code vin? could've also been a 351W-2V so you may want to investigate the block as well, casting & date codes are near the starter. 
here's the low-down on the various 4V Cleveland engines offered over the span of production


the easiest, most accurate way IMO to determine what heads you have is by the date code found on an intake runner in the valve spring area. along with this chart compiled by members of the Cleveland's Forever forum. click on this link then click on the pdf to open the 351C 4V Cylinder Head Repository 

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/351c/cylinder-head-repository-home-of-the-dot-no-dot-t4793.html

there'll also be a casting date code on the intake but if it's a square bore carb flange it's M code, spreadbore it conforms to Q code / Cobra-Jet. there are issues with both types, the square bore manifold has small throttle bores and will not accept a big carb. the spreadbore manifold only accepts a 4300-D carb or requires a specific Trans-Dapt 2199 adapter plate. i wouldn't sweat the Cobra-Jet thing, some people get way to worked up about it. FWIW the factory CJ is a low compression smog dog, but it can be woken up!


72 GT Ute
   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bretticuss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-December-2025 at 5:44PM
Thanks a lot, do you mind sharing a picture of how the battery tray attaches to that support piece, and where it attaches at by the wheel well? 
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Bretticuss View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bretticuss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-December-2025 at 5:44PM
I've been looking at his videos for a little while now! 
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Bretticuss View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bretticuss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-December-2025 at 5:54PM
Yes, it is an H code. I'm not really too concerned with them being cobra jet, I plan on swapping intakes anyway, and I am happy that the heads are 4v no matter if they are cobra jet or not. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-December-2025 at 1:14AM
Originally posted by Bretticuss Bretticuss wrote:

Yes, it is an H code. I'm not really too concerned with them being cobra jet, I plan on swapping intakes anyway, and I am happy that the heads are 4v no matter if they are cobra jet or not. 

I agree with you that it's just good to have the engine platform. It has good potential, the intake is useless if it's a stock based design for a 4V head. The 4V heads need much better than stock intakes, which there are almost none to choose from. The RPM Air Gap is the best hands down for anything but a serious high rpm 351C.

My last Ranchero was a Q code, but as you can see by the chart, that means open chamber and low compression. That's fixable with closed chamber heads, but expensive of course like everything. This engine I have was rebuilt with closed chamber heads, and it runs okay. But it is mediocre because of a mediocre camshaft and a Performer intake. So the rpm band is the stock lower level, maybe a 5k shift point.

The 4V heads don't become efficient until 3000rpm or so. That's why some now really like the 400's, those have 2V heads which are much more efficient at street rpm levels.

Take your time fixing your car to get it to run well and have good brakes etc. Make it safe before worrying about bigger upgrades.
Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000 rpm 351 stroker
73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later.
92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dan0R30 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-December-2025 at 3:10AM
Originally posted by Bretticuss Bretticuss wrote:

Thanks a lot, do you mind sharing a picture of how the battery tray attaches to that support piece, and where it attaches at by the wheel well? 

Sure. This picture is from the wheel well perspective. The support piece goes underneath the apron and the tray bolts (2) will thread in from the top and one will thread in from the side bracket. Based on the repair on yours, it looks like you'll need to re drill the holes in the apron.



After bolting the tray in place, I had a friend put a few spot welds for extra support.
Dan

1970 Ford Torino hardtop - 351C 4V - FMX - 9" 3.89 TrueTrac
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bretticuss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2026 at 5:50AM
Thanks a lot, I got the battery tray installed no problem.
Anyone have a video, or a resource on re attaching the grille? It was taken apart when I picked the car up, everything is there, I would just like some type of resource on properly putting it back together. I'm a "Do the job correctly the first time" type of guy so anything helps. 
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