Oil Additive

Hello,
When I start my Torino of course there is a little bit of water that comes out of the exhaust pipes now have notice on the driveway that I have grey or black carbon or soot that is leaving marks on the driveway where the exhaust pipes exit.
So I was thinking about an oil additive to clean out the internal parts of the engine. The car I'm confident only has about 74,000 miles on it, there's been some work done to the heads and a cam shaft installation, outside of that I believe the internals are original.

Does anyone have any recommendations of a good oil additive to clean out the internal parts of the 351 Cleveland? Any recommendations would be appreciated thanks!

Edited by GoldFinger - 12-December-2015 at 2:11PM

I use Valvoline racing 10w30, and one quart of 20w50.
I never heard of using one quart of Type F ATF fluid in the oil.
But I just may try, thanks Johnny!

Ditto on the regular oil & filter changes, also have used Valvoline exclusively, 'til I got my ''PowerStroke''(Rotella synth.for it), & the wife's Taurus Motorcraft only 'cause I have the dealer I worked for, change it. I can't fit under it & takes me longer to drag the floor jack out & take the lower chassis shroud off than to have them do it

Ranchero Fan wrote: I also heard using ATF, an elderly neighbor (retired teamster also) used to do it every other oil change. I have used SEAFOAM poured slowly into the vac. hose that supplies the brake booster, to clean the upper parts of the engine. Smokes like hell for a little bit but, seemed to help the Explorer I had.

if you want to clean carbon build up in the intake and valves...slowly pour diesel down the carb while keeping it running about 1/2 throttle! yes it smokes like hell but it works!!! and if you want to have that ability to decarbon at will... fill the washer jug with diesel and run the hose into the top of the carb, hit the washer switch while driving, keep the throttle to the floor (so it don't load up) decarbon on the go works great for tailgaters!!!

[QUOTE=fordpower]My grandfather said they always put a half to a quart of typef in the city cabs.Most prof. to day say it will rune the motor[/QUOTE     I would agree, oil & fuel  were crap,  back in the day, & the engines weren't so efficient, so additives(some) were needed. Today I wouldn't recommend using any of the older maintainance habbits either.  

I would have to agree with dan todays engines are way more tec.

Sounds like a normal issue for a 43 yr. old car. Maybe the car has seen seasonal use, or hardly any use before you bought it. Start with an oil change & take some good long drives & blow the cob webs out of her.  Pull the valve covers off if your worried & see if the heads are sludge free, if they aren't then clean out what you can by hand & then look @ some of the suggestions mentioned above. Just my ....02.

I've used Seafoam in our newer cars with good results. C's Acura seemed to have the best reaction to it, but all ran smoother. Should work well on older carb'd cars. Nothing wrong with trying it.

But, and I say this from experience, be careful what "cleansing additives" you add to the crankcase. A very mildly varnished engine will benefit from a detergent cleansing, but one that is heavily sludged is another matter. I would advise against using any cleanser in an engine with heavy buildup.

Here's why: When you have an engine with lots of buildup, it is not merely a thick viscous buildup, but will have hardened deposits as well. As the cleansing agent courses through the engine, it quickly takes off the gunk that still has liquid properties and then begins eating away at the hardened deposits. Slowly, but surely. All of this is flowing around in your engine, everywhere, and into the sump/oil pickup tube/pump.. The fully dissolved goo is held in suspension, but the hardened chunks (think the hardest mineral deposits or plastered coatings you've encountered) will end up in the sump. On their way, they can clog orifices, lifters, oil journals. Even if they get to the sump, they will be sucked into the pickup screen on the oil pump. Once enough have broken loose in the engine, they will eventually clog the screen on the pickup tube. No more oil flowing to vital parts, then...POW. If you have gauges and shut it off in time, you can pull the engine, clean the pan, install a new screen/pickup tube and then put the engine back in. However, the grit and hardened buildup has had it's "protective" layer of gunk removed and it will continue to break off and collect in the sump, again clogging up the screen. Terrible cycle to get into.

I don't recommend this to everyone, but it has worked well for me in the past when faced with heavy buildup, lack of funds, and no other choice:

Remove the engine. Pull the intake, valve covers, pump and pan. Stuff rags into all intake ports.
Take a pressure washer and literally blast off everything you can see on the heads, lifter valley, bottom end, and all oil ports. I mean REALLY get it into every spot. Keep blasting until everything looks clean and tidy. Pay special attention to all return holes and tight areas. Once everything is very clean, take a garden hose and flush everything with copious amounts of water. Blow dry and blast through all return ports with compressed air from your compressor. Really get it as dry as you can, tilting the engine to rid it of all water. Once done, thinly coat everything inside with light engine oil, install new pump and screen and reassemble. Install and fill with fresh oil and good filter, prime new pump. Run for an hour. Change oil and filter again while hot (let drain overnight) and run for 2 hours. Change oil and filter while hot (again letting drain overnight) and you should be ready to go.

I have done this several times and ended up with a much healthier engine that went on about it's business with no issues. Time consuming, but when faced with limited funds, it does help greatly.

I have fear with carbon removing items.I had my99 tourus done.It cost 110$ I will admit it ran 100 percent better.On way back from city it burned a hole right through a valve.

I believe I'm going to just change the oil more frequently, maybe,and I mean maybe add some Marvel Mystery Oil to it, because it's old school, that I've used before with no problems previously. But we shall see, ha!