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Water spots on paint

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Water spots on paint
    Posted: 15-August-2016 at 10:05AM
I washed the car today and unfortunately because of the heat some of the water dried on the car before I could wipe it down.  It seems to have left a lot of obvious and bad looking water spots that I never had before.  I can't seem to remove them.  I tried some Mother's cleaner wax, a clay bar, and Meguiar's Ultimate compound and my buffer but they still are there.  I also tried a few spots with some vinegar, supposed to be an old trick, but it didn't work.  FWIW, I am on well water and it's not softened, but not overly hard (we do get some calcium build up).  The paint is not OEM and is an old single stage paint.
Any idea on what would work to remove the spots? 


Edited by 72FordGTS - 15-August-2016 at 10:21AM
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-August-2016 at 1:25PM
it's generally caused by calcium in the water. not sure what to use i've never found any of the CLR or similar stuff to work much on faucets and things, even though they show it working like magic on t.v.Confused
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-August-2016 at 2:19PM
Problem is that you don't want to damage the paint. I would try a wax and grease remover to see if it's just on top of old wax. After that... maybe rubbing compound? Ketchup will take water spots off chrome...
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-August-2016 at 5:05PM
The problem is that the chemicals left behind when the water evaporated have etched into the paint (cratered). Are you proficient with a buffer and some fine grit (1500 - 2000) wet sanding paper? Of course that depends on how much paint is on the panel(s).

Another thing that's been done it to sand it using wet sanding paper (1000 - 1500) and then clear coating the panel(s). Two potential problems. First is the clear coat reacting with the basecoat. It's usually a more of a problem with recent paint work but is always a risk. The second is using a true (clear) clear coat. At lot of clears actually have a yellow tint to them and can alter the color.

Personally I'd try a light sand and buff. If it doesn't eliminate it,  it should improve it.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-August-2016 at 5:38PM
you could try some meguires #85 compound with a meguires red foam pad on the buffer. the 85 starts out with fine cutting and degrades quickly to a fine polishing compound! i'd try that first and if a couple of applications of the compound don't do it then wet sand with 2000 then 4000, then the #85 to repolish it Wink

Meguiars M8532 M85 Mirror Glaze Diamond Cut Compound 2.0Meguiars Soft Buff 7 Inch Foam Cutting Pad
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-August-2016 at 1:20AM
I am not a body guy so I have never done wet sanding. I worked the car a bit more with the Ultimate Compound and it made things a little better but this is a consumer grade product.  I think I need something more aggressive. Other than the #85 what about Mirror Glaze #1 Compound? It says it's good for single stage paints? Keep in mind my skill level is still basic.

My buffer isn't a professional grade unit just a cheap Simoniz rotary buffer. So I don't think I can get cutting pads just micro fiber, wool or foam.

I am hoping I can avoid wet sanding because that is something that might be above my skill level.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-August-2016 at 3:29AM
I have had very good luck using Dupont #7 Polishing Cleaner from my days in the body shop years ago.

I have been out of the "Business" for along time myself, but my brother still owns and runs his shop.

I would give that a try first, before wet sanding or using compound.

My best story on this product is that after painting my mom's car and cleaning all the glass & stainless with quad zero steel wool to remove the over-spray and body shop fall out.

I did not blow the steel wool dust off the car and the first time my Mom drove it in the rain, it rust stained everywhere and dried in place.

Dupont #7 cleaned it all off and left no residue, staining, or other hazing to the finish.

Good luck, Mike H.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-August-2016 at 6:18AM
The #85 is almost fool proof! It cuts a little then turns to a polishing compound in a matter of seconds no need to swap pads either!
I have an orange harbor freight buffer that was like $39 and it's still working fine after several full vehicles and several small jobs Wink
I'll post that info when I get home tonight.


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Chicago Electric 7" Variable Speed Polisher Sander 92623 *READ*


Edited by californiajohnny - 16-August-2016 at 1:14PM
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
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90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-August-2016 at 12:54PM
Thanks for all the tips so far guys.  I did work the paint a bit more today.  I originally only clayed a small section and it didn't seem to do anything.  I tried again today and it actually seemed to make things look much better. 
I didn't have a chance to make it over to a body shop supply store today, but will got tomorrow. I know the shop I deal with carries Meguiar's products for sure, not sure about 3M.  Does it make a difference what I use on the paint, since it is single stage?  I am assuming it's Enamal, but don't know for sure.  I know when my dad had the car painted in the mid 90's it was a cheaper job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-August-2016 at 8:45AM
So after reading on some car detail websites I decided to stick with a less aggressive product since I don't have much experience compounding paint.  I used the Meguiars Ultimate Compound but aggressively by hand and it seemed to make a big difference.  I then finished off the paint with using Meguiars #7 show glaze using the method below and it seemed to come out decent.  If you look really closely you can still see the spots but they are hardly noticeable. It's about as nice as I can get this old single stage paint looking (it's not a top quality job) until I can afford to do a nice base/clear paint job.
 
Here's a the method I used ( I only used the first part which was by hand).  It seems to work great at restoring single stage paint and would be great to try for anyone trying to save original paint.  Check out the before and after pics for the old Lincoln with original paint in the article.
 
 
Here's a pic of the car after I got finished:
 
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-August-2016 at 2:37PM
sh*t, that's nothing to be ashamed of! looks like a million bucks in the pic! Thumbs Up

 oh BTW, what are those circular black marks on the pavement???


Edited by californiajohnny - 30-August-2016 at 2:38PM
JOHN
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90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-August-2016 at 5:52AM
Wink
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

 Thumbs Up

 oh BTW, what are those circular black marks on the pavement???
 
I *may* have been responsible for those...Wink
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-August-2016 at 7:14AM
Hmm ???
JOHN
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90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2016 at 9:28AM
Vince, my only advice is be careful using a machine to polish if you are not used to buffing.
You can burn paint easily on edges especially if you put too much pressure or heat into the panel.

I buff my GTS once a year, before world of wheels. It's a couple day affair as I do four passes around the car. I need to honestly wet sand the swirls but I'm terrified of screwing up my paint.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2016 at 2:48PM
Thanks for the tip Andrew.  I ended up getting decent results as posted above.  Not show quality but good enough for my old paint job.

Edited by 72FordGTS - 22-September-2016 at 2:48PM
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