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Thermostat Temp and Block Heat Crossover
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    Posted: 12-December-2021 at 3:40AM
I installed a 180 degree Track Boss high flow thermostat in my 400.  It also uses a Flowkooler aluminum waterpump, a clutch fan and a high efficiency 3 row brass rad.  This fall I found the engine was running a little on the cool side (wouldn't get into the "normal" range on the gauge). Even in the hotter summer days, it runs significantly cooler than when it was stock with the 195 degree stat.  I am thinking that of ordering a 195 degree stat to get the engine to run a bit warmer.  Any thoughts on this?

I also have had issues with fuel boiling in the carb.  I have installed a spacer and insulated the fuel lines which made it much better, but it's still not perfect.  I was thinking if I upgrade to a 195 stat this might be worse.  So, maybe blocking off the crossover would be a good idea.  I know I live in the great white north, but the car is  always in a garage and never sees inclement weather.  So I don't really thing there is a need for it anyway.  I have a spare turkey pan intake gasket in my garage.  So what's the best way to make a block off?  I know the old beer car trick, but they also seem to burn through.  I want a more permanent solution.
Vince

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Points: 2767 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-December-2021 at 4:00AM
I would prefer the 180* T'stat always. I have had lots of heat with them in multiple of my cars, only two have been less than really hot. We see single digit temps here every year, and rarely below zero.

My latest 98 Explorer I did the radiator and all hoses, fan clutch etc, with a 180* T'stat. So far the temp gauge has been really low versus normal(below the N instead of near the A). But the heat is very good, I suspect the thermostat is just opening at a lower level than the 180* rating.

If your heat isn't good enough, be sure the fan is blowing hard enough, and the evaporator isn't plugged with debris. If the gauge is showing very low, you might try a new T'stat, they are fragile and you find a dud sometimes.

Also I use Water Weter to help cooling, it usually is barely visible on the gauge after putting it in.

The big intake pan is evidently a common vacuum leak deal, I never had a problem on the three I installed. I gather people just leave that out now. I still have a new one and a Torker intake I likely won't use. That pan should slightly lower the intake temps until fully warmed up.

Doing away with the heat crossover will help more than the intake pan, definitely do that.
Don
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Hello,  I run the 192 in my Cleveland. That was the stock temp thermostat and reason is the 335 series can develop condesation in the top end running below that temp. So, I would run the 195. I also have the flow kooler and the car is always dead on for temp. 

Cut some of your turkey pan and block the cross over. If thing's don't change go back. You may use one of those fancy point and shoot thermometers to get an idea if you are really boiling the gas. J

I would guess some folks could have cooling issues running a 192 or 195 if they have the wrong type thermostat. People think the hat at the base of the thermostat is the only factor but the Shaw design is a must. I use the Robert Shaw 333-192. 

 


Edited by SeattleJay - 12-December-2021 at 4:29AM
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That's the one I used in the early 80's for my two Cleveland's, Robert Shaw was the best back then.
Don
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I have the Robert Shaw style stat in the car now and plan to get another if I go to a 195.  Just to clarify, the car has no problem cooling, if anything it runs too cool when the weather is cold.  Running too cold isn't good.  The heat issue is solely from the crossover and it's just affecting the carb.  

I like that idea of cutting up an old Turkey tray for the crossover block offs.  I know Rock has mention cutting up a turkey tray and using it solely for a valley pan and using standard type gaskets around the ports in the past  I could do something like that too, but Edlebrock recommends the Turkey tray for their intake. which is why I used it. FWIW, I haven't had any issues with vacuuum leaks with any turkey pans I have done, but maybe I got lucky.
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   Check them with a laser thermometer.  Try it on different areas of the engine and the radiator hoses. Your gauge may not be accurate. Maybe a sending unit issue?

You could block off the crossover with alumafil probably. I would do it in the intake if it were me.
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i'm not sure how i would block off the carb heat risers if using the turkey pan intake gasket?

the 'race style' gaskets have the ability to absorb the thickness of some metal shim stock but the embossed metal turkey pan not so much. back on the Old Cleveland Forum i've seen quite a few methods posted up ...filling the intake passage with epoxy or stuffing the intake passage with compacted aluminum foil then capping the ends with epoxy and using the shim material at the gasket, melting an old piston and pouring it into the passages in the heads and porting the exhaust port side to shape, this also 'corrects' the oddball port on each side. epoxy filling the heads and porting. and all sorts of combinations. i'm sure there's been a few that have welded a piece of aluminum into the intake to block it off permanently.

what kind of spacer do you have under the carb? anything that specifically isolates heat?
there are phenolic spacers and isolator gaskets that work well. this is Edelbrock 9265 under my carbs mostly for accel pump clearance
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Okay, let me ask this.  Is there any disadvantage to switching my 180 thermostat to a 195?  I am thinking this might be a more optimal temperature for my engine.  Any thoughts?

Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

i'm not sure how i would block off the carb heat risers if using the turkey pan intake gasket?

the 'race style' gaskets have the ability to absorb the thickness of some metal shim stock but the embossed metal turkey pan not so much. back on the Old Cleveland Forum i've seen quite a few methods posted up ...filling the intake passage with epoxy or stuffing the intake passage with compacted aluminum foil then capping the ends with epoxy and using the shim material at the gasket, melting an old piston and pouring it into the passages in the heads and porting the exhaust port side to shape, this also 'corrects' the oddball port on each side. epoxy filling the heads and porting. and all sorts of combinations. i'm sure there's been a few that have welded a piece of aluminum into the intake to block it off permanently.

what kind of spacer do you have under the carb? anything that specifically isolates heat?
there are phenolic spacers and isolator gaskets that work well. this is Edelbrock 9265 under my carbs mostly for accel pump clearance


Thanks Rock.  The only way I was thinking was of blocking with the turkey pan would be to have some sort of plug in the intake itself.  

I remember my old post where you mentioned using race style gaskets with a turkey pan valley.  I found this pic:


In that post you recommended the Mr. Gasket 222 gaskets.  Looking at them, they even come with a metal plate to block off the exhaust crossover.  So maybe that is the way to go.  Plus it's the newer style 400 gasket with the Thermactor ports, which will match the Eddy 2171 intake.  So maybe I can use that 222 gaskets and then try to salvage the existing turkey pan to make a valley heat shield.



For the carb spacer, it's an Edlebrock wooden spacer.  It supposedly insulates better than the phenolic spacers.  It actually did make a huge difference and hot starts are pretty good, but I figure that the exhaust cross over is doing me no good and having a cooler intake should only make things better overall.
Vince

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