Roof Rail Trim |
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wideone
Senior Member Joined: 05-August-2011 Location: Bristol,TN Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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Posted: 27-October-2011 at 7:51AM |
I am at the point where I need to remove the chrome roof rail trim on my 72 for painting. Are there any tips on how to do this? Can you save your roof rail weather strips at the same time? Thanks Randy |
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the wetherstrip slides into a channel,you need to remove the weatherstrip from the channel to expose the screws.You have to remove that channel to get to the screwws that hold the roof rail trim on as the channel helps hold the roof rail trim but there are additional screws on the trim itself.After removing the trim screws pull down as it slides onto the roof pinchweld that is flat,when you reinstall the trim use something on the pinch weld flange like putty tape or caulking as the trim itself is what becomes the driprail so if you don't seal the molding to the pichweld water will seap between the trim and the metal flange and start the rust process of rotting away that metal flange with the moisture sitting between it so make sure to seal the molding to the body after you paint it.3M makes a bedding compound they use to seal the rubber gasket on the rear window and that will also work for sealing the trim back on the roof edge
I reinstalled the channel and weatherstrip so the window can seal as I am working on the car but it has to be able to go outside at times now that the body is primed. this is what the roof flange looks like with molding removed Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 27-October-2011 at 9:18AM |
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wideone
Senior Member Joined: 05-August-2011 Location: Bristol,TN Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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Thanks Jeff, I think I understand now. Seeing how it looks underneath eliminates leaving it off it appears. Randy |
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72BoB
Senior Member Joined: 25-January-2011 Location: Atlanta Status: Offline Points: 248 |
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I would love to see someone eliminate the drip rails... That would be a very nice custom touch.
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1972 Torino
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wideone
Senior Member Joined: 05-August-2011 Location: Bristol,TN Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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Well. I removed the weatherstrip and the screws that go through the channel. I can't seem to find what is holding the plastic channel in place and am scared I'll break it. What am I missing? Thanks |
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it's also has sealer on it so you will have to gentle pry on it but make sure all the screws are taken out.There should be another set of screws holding the chrome drip rail molding that is hidden under the weatherstrip channel.
The channel is metal not plastic but pry on it gently as not to bend it out of shape
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wideone
Senior Member Joined: 05-August-2011 Location: Bristol,TN Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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Well, I got 'em out. I was just too afraid to pry on the channel. Other side came off in about 5 minuets after I was "skilled". Found out that mineral sprits will take the goo seal off in a hurry. Thanks again, Randy |
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glad you got them off and was able to help.luckily I had removed mine before you asked so I knew myself.
I'm pretty good at taking cars apart and have to learn all the time with new cars and new models or model year changes and I will apply slight pressure to try and remove parts but not enough to break them hopefully and sometimes you can tell if there is something holding it such as a fastner or clip of some sort. I have seen guys who grip and rip method and they break stuff but if I can't find someone in the shop who has done one I just take my time and figure it out as nothing worse then telling the boss you broke something.there are certain parts on newer cars held on by clips that the clips break and there is nothing you can do to prevent it but usually the shops have clip assortments or the special ones get ordered from the dealer and the insurance company pays for that stuff as it is part of the procedure. Older classic cars are alot easier to figure out as alot of stuff is held on with screws and the clips were made of metal and there were only so many styles of clips back then so you can figure it out if you have as much experience as I do. that is why I don't mind helping cause I don't want anyone to break or damage a hard to find part make sure you use some kind of sealer when you put it back together especially on the drip rail so the water don't get down between the molding
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Odranoel
Member Joined: 03-June-2011 Location: DC Metro area Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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that's the spirit of the forum! Nice post, I'm going to use this info myself |
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1972 Gran Torino
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papadeath
Senior Member Joined: 08-December-2011 Location: Eagle Rock, CA Status: Offline Points: 498 |
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Dude, please do my body work.... I haven't even started yet and I'm so overwhelmed. Some retard sprayed a thick coat of epoxy over the entire car and lately I'm just sort of reaching the original paint. There are a few rust spots, not too bad, but also a couple in the cab floor that they covered in carpet to hide it. geez. I only paid 1400 for this car, but I put close to 7K in the motor, so I at least want it to look decent. http://s1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee513/papadeath/
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75 Ranchero in progress
04 Harley Deuce stage one kit 89 Toyota pickup modded 09 Scion XB (bought for the ol' lady) buy American! (sorry) skateboard 4 bicycles 1 scooter 2 dogs 2 stupid cats |
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i'm sure there are shops or individuals in CA that can do your Ranchero,but it won't be cheap for quality work.I don't have a shop or garage anymore since I had to move to NJ,and don't even have a place to work on my 72 GTS you see in the photo's,it's outside on the trailer covered up with a tarp.
Heck it would cost you a few grand just to transport it to me and back when it's done,you could apply that to a shop near you.
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