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1974 400/C6 - Junk it or keep it?

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unlovedford View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1974 400/C6 - Junk it or keep it?
    Posted: 15-August-2013 at 3:24PM
I have a running 400 Modified and a C6 in a '74 Ranchero I just bought. Engine runs well, smells like OLD gas when I start it and puffs a small wisp of smoke (old gas?) when you first start it. Has been sitting 2 years. Truck shows 114K and verified by original owner. Is it worth going to the trouble of pulling it, or should I just leave it to add weight when I junk what is left?
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend onirot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-August-2013 at 5:35PM
put "new" gas in it?
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malcolm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robbdtme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-August-2013 at 6:46PM
Read up on 400's. Keep it. These are great motors that can easily and cheaply be built. 74 had larger chamber heads that  later crappy 351m Heads can improve. The 400 always had low octane higher compression problems in the 70's. Again read up on 400's you will get excited and keep it.
Johnny cash Special 74-75-76 freak. 77 XR7. 78 LTD II sport looks pretty but poop 302 in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-April-2014 at 7:01AM
Joe, I am looking for a C6 for a 400. If you elect to part, let me know.
Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-April-2014 at 7:07AM
Andy,

That all left here months ago. However, the '67 LTD has a non-original rebuilt 400/C6 in it that I am contemplating removing for an EFI drivetrain, since C wants to keep/drive this. Will let you know if I elect to remove it.
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-April-2014 at 8:14AM
OK I know it's an old dead thread but just to point out for anybody that finds it in a search for something else...

1974 400 heads are better than 1975 351M heads because of the exhaust port... chambers are basically the same. in 1975 with the D5 casting, Ford added a water jacket around the exhaust valve for added cooling due to higher running temps of the new unleaded fuel

the exhaust port bowl is 'filled' & that's not a good thing

bottom left pic here

http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/newmotor2.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-April-2014 at 9:19AM
I have no idea what year the LTD's engine is. Just aware of it being rebuilt, pretty healthy, 4Bbl intake and Edelbrock carb and sounds like Christine. Moves the car pretty well and the transmission shifts well.
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-August-2014 at 6:18AM
What information does anyone have about the 1973 400 engine? The particular engine has had low oil pressure for the 15 years that the current owner has had it. Is this a notorious issue with the 400s? Is there something I should look for when purchasing??
JT, USAF Ret./Architect
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-August-2014 at 7:54AM
yeah they're pretty famous for running almost forever with little or no oil pressure, as long as you don't kill them on purpose they keep chug'n. w/o going into the engine a HV oil pump can be a 'repair' method, or running slightly heavier oil or both
 
even after rebuild with new bearings & fresh reground crank they still have pathetic oil pressure. Tim Meyer did a thread showing how he custom ground the crank to outside service tolerance & came up with typical factory oil clearances, otherwise with quality replacement bearings & reground crank within service spec's you'll end up with 'performance' oil clearances & possibly crappy oil pressure
 
kinda funny how the boat anchor of the late 70's turned out to be the choice of Engine Masters Competition builders in the 2000's   


Edited by Rockatansky - 10-August-2014 at 7:56AM
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