Gran Torino Sport four speed install

 I finally got my toploader rebuilt. new input shaft , syncros, shift rails and seals.

 

Today i started ripping the interior apart. column, brake booster, and pedal assy.

you can see under the dash to the left of where the column went through, there was a perforated spot in the factory insulation where you can pull it out and have a nice hole for the clutch rod. Ford even puts a little dimple in the center for the hole saw to go

Now, for the questions!      the new clutch brake pedal assy... has a different attachment point for the master cyl pushrod, its lower that my old auto one on the left.  Is this new pedal assy from a manual brake car?   it wasnt advertised as such , but i didnt know of a difference either. whats the best way to remedy this?

lastly, anyone have any header suggestions for a 302/351w four speed car?,  i have hedman ceramic coated ones, but they dont look like they will work.

but i may have some full length ceramic coated ones for sale for a 302/351 if anyones looking.

I've been told on the cleveland by a couple engine guys, not a good idea to do shorties, the heat will crack the welds on shorties.

Can not say the same for the windsor crowd however.

This is going off what I was told by the guy that does the FPA headers when I was looking for a solution to my header problem, before I modified my headers that I had.

Then i drilled the hole in the firewall for the clutch rod boot. 2.5 holesaw worked perfectly.

here is the 2 hex holes in the frame for the Z bar bracket, that take the special rivit nuts. They are still available from FoMoCo. i have one sitting in there, but they really need to be riveted in before the body goes on. otherwise its near impossible to squash them by hand. i may try to tack weld them in.

here is what the rivit inserts look like. i have cut a groove around it trying to make it collapse better, but it hasnt worked so well. will keep you posted.

 

How that tube kicks up. Make sure your PS lines clear. May want to get some high heat boots if it is close.

I used my set of $99 dynomax headers on my 351c 2v engine, and modified the last tube on the driver's side to clear the Z bar and fit around my steering box by cutting and trimming the tube, using tape to hole it to shape and having a shop bend it up.

Don't want to thread jack, but here is what I did:

On that tab, I really have no clue.

ON my car, the spring loops into the hole on the Z bar-atleast, when I tore my car down, the spring was tied into the pivot arm and a hole on the z bar. I would take pics...but you know the drill.

Andy

But seeing as how I drug my project kicking and farting from a barn after 17 years, I stuck with the leg muscle, fat burning, left leg of iron clutch pedal setup with old school 3 finger clutch set.

Screw easy clutch engagement! I want something that I know will work.

 

Im going to keep an eye on this thread,to help me decide which will be less work.Sorry i have nothing useful to add.....

I actually looked at this too - you can get some great deals on Willwood or Tilton pedal boxes - I thought I'd give it a go at $30 for the mustang pedal box and $30ish for some hardware (plus $45 for adjusters cables etc.......it all adds up!).......the only issue I could forsee with the pedal boxes from Tilton or Willwood was the servo - but I'm sure it would be easy to fab something up......

Apologies for the thread hijack......

Neil